primer for acylics best practice but canopies interior colour disallows.

[Merlin]

Hi,

Painting with Vallejo model air and first stage is priming with Mr surfacer 1200, ensures paint adheres. Enamels you can get away with no primer . Then we come to the transparencies...however I dont want light grey interior framing on canopies and turrets and vallejo rubs off very easily if just painted on, though this is good for editing the edge with a cocktail stick or chopped off microbrush, but primers dont come as interior grey green or black for Bomber Command turrets. Just handling when affixing can see ones handiwork and all that carefull hand painting being damaged. Acrylics lile Vallejo dont bond quite like enamels., smelly ones might be better but are a pig to hand paint , . I have my colour I am using in vallejo and need to use it on the canopies as well.

 

Help !

 

Merlin

[Mark Harmsworth]

I'd like to help but I think I'm confused (that happens easily I'm told). I may be being daft - but is there a question?

Mark

[Evil_Toast_RSA]

Maybe mix it up? Use a Tamiya or Gunze paint to paint canopies, prime with Mr Surfacer the proceed as normal? 

[Graham Boak]

Sounds like your problem is in using Vallejo paints.  Use something else.  Either way, ensure the part fits well before proceeding so that any handling is minimised.

[Dave Fleming]

Couple of options, one is to tint your primer - although if you are using a spray can that's more difficult. Even decanting a little then using lacquer paints to mix it to get a more realistic colour. The other is to use small quantities of lacquer or enamel to prime your clear plastic using the desired shades

 

The third option would be to use a clear varnish as a primer (lacquer or enamel type) then use the Vallejo interior colour over that

Edited November 1, 2019 by Dave Fleming

[Merlin]

Hi,

in summary I need primer for turrets and mr surfacer 1200 is wrong colour. As acrylics need a primer I am wondering what to use that is the right interior colour for the framing, such as RAF interior grey green, or black for bomber command turrets etc. I like the ability to edit the edges with cocktail stick when using acrylics such as Vallejo,

I dont want to be trying to colour match the Vallejo in enamels. I do want to paint the clear parts with acrylics, using the same Vallejo as on the camo.

 

the paint must be able to be hand brushed on. Tamiya and GS out of the equation as such.

 

So actually the primer doesnt need to say so on the tin, other substances would do, so, I can use a varnish or enamel.

 

If I am to mask the canopies and turrets then spraying varnish would work, if hand painting frames then I cant see where the varnish is, and could end up spoiling the glazed areas.

 

Black matt enamel would work but editing the edge with cocktail stick wouldnt.

 

For hand painting I am still not sure of a solution.

 

Merlin

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

I suggest using a paint that will chemically bond (i.e. one with solvents) for the interior colour you need to paint on first. Make it a matt paint, then you'll have to cross all fingers and toes that the waterbased exterior colour stuff makes a passable mechanical grip onto the matt solvent paint interior colour.

 

I've lost my temper with this in the past - pealing off an Eduard canopy mask set and all of the acrylic water based stuff came away with it leaving me a canopy that looked just like it did when I first attached it. I was raging.

 

Another thing you could do to try to leave the waterbased paint behind on the frames is the run your scalpel round every mask before unmasking.

[Troy Smith]

Falcon Models recommended using painted clear decal for canopy framing, which is easy to do the interior colour before.

http://falconmodels.co.nz/howto.html

Quote

Painting:

The best way to achieve crisp and convincing frame lines is by applying pre-painted strips of decal film. Paint part of a sheet of clear decal film, then cut strips of the correct width with a sharp blade and a straight-edge. Decal film sticks better to a painted surface than to bare plastic, so you will have to paint an undercoat on the frame lines marked on the canopy. This technique may not be suitable for canopies with large or irregularly shaped framed areas. For these canopies we suggest you mask the clear areas with clear adhesive tape and then remove the masking after painting.

 

It is possible that canopies dipped in Kleer or similar will effectively be primed?  

 

Note, worth checking what the internal colour actually is,  for example

Quote

Closer view of the cockpit. Note aluminum paint frames on the canopy and windshield.

 

 

 

HTH

[Merlin]

Hi, Jamie,

yes thats my fear, so think, being now in a hurry here, hand paint with acrylic, edit the edges with chisel ended cocktail stick or similar, acrylic doesnt bond as enamels do, meaning that edit can be done, but is fragile in handling and for mask removel scary and more, but I have the colour ready to use, no time to go colour matching in enamels and cutting masks. 1/72 anson turret too curvy maybe for decals, and the acrylic would no doubt scag when cut.

no primer straight on with a grey camo colour in time left now.

I bet the BoB hurri pilots suffered from glare when the sun bounced off silver glazing frames !

 

Merlin

[Vicarage Vee]

Not sure I’ve fully understood either but a dark acrylic primer such as Stynylrez is an option, would that help? Then score around the masks as was suggested above?