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Redboost

Yak-1b ARMA HOBBY 1/72

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Looks like she went together really well Libor, with virtually no seam lines. From what I remember, you use liquid cement for most of the construction - is this true?

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Yes, it is. For most of the assembly I use Mr.Cement S (blue cap), while for joints bearing some load like wing spar etc. I use stronger Mr.Cement SP (violet cap).

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Looking good - excellent, even! I just received my batch of this kit a few days ago, but I've only started the cockpit on the first one. Do you intend to drill out the exhausts? They're very tiny, and I haven't been successful so far. Is there a special method for this, or does it just need steady hands and good eyes? Maybe a microscope?! I've seen someone do it with a hypodermic needle, but I don't understand how this is any better than a drill.

 

When will your sold-out book be available again?

 

Cheers!

John

Edited by John Thompson

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Hi John, yes, I intend to drill them out using a micro bit, something like 0.1mm or so, and let’s see... A friend of mine doing patterns for Aires also uses some special micro needle files from Vallorbe, but they are expensive like a hell... 

Sorry about the book, it is a matter of reprint at a future date, but can’t advise when. Cheers!

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That AMT-7 looks great, Libor - just the way I imagine it should look! I've been test-fitting mine and finding that everything fits together just about perfectly. I look forward to seeing your model all painted up!

 

Regards,

 

Jason

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Tx Jason!

 

Moving on the upper surfaces, the AMT-4 is H405 with a touch of yellow, while the black is H77. The dark mottling on the cowling was shot using black-green H65.

 

 

 

 

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Looking great Libor! The feathered edge your getting with the Gunze paint is very impressive - looks perfect for 1/72 scale. Are you thinning it way down and using a low air pressure? I agree with Jason - the colors look very realistic.

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Thanks! Yes, the paint was thinned down a bit, but I do not use very low pressure; for me better works relatively higher pressure and very thin line which my Iwata allows.

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That looks beautiful, Libor! I believe you meant 'AMT-4' instead of 'AMT-7', though.

 

Regards,

 

Jason

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Thank you! I knew you knew the difference, Libor, I just didn't want other people to be confused. It is my goal in life to make modellers understand that Soviet GPW colours were quite simple, not the minefield they were long told they were. Now, RLM colours are a different matter...

 

Best Regards,

 

Jason

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Just wondering Libor, do you apply the liquid glue with a brush or do you use something else?

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No, I only use the fine brush which is part of the cap.

 

The decals went on nicely with the help of Mr.Setter and Softer. I heard the Techmod decals may be sometime challenging to apply, but personally my experiences are very positive, the decals have perfect register and dense colors, are thin and conformed well to the surface. Only the bottom part of the nose shark mouth needed some touch ups with black and red acrylics.

 

 

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The Techmod decals look very opaque, which is good news. With some brands of decals, the white will turn a different shade when applied over a dark color. Looking great so far Libor. By the way, do you plan on building the Special Hobby Do-27 and Fouga Magister in the future? They look like nice kits.

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8 hours ago, Redboost said:

 I heard the Techmod decals may be sometime challenging to apply, but personally my experiences are very positive, the decals have perfect register and dense colors, are thin and conformed well to the surface.

Techmod recently upgraded their technology, both in print quality and in film medium.

But I've never had any problems with even old Techmod decals (and I have used big sheets of their Lozenge on sometimes very complex surfaces).

 

Libor, your work is stunning!!!

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Well I can say that the Techmod decals on my Yak-1B kit look very nice indeed.

 

Regards,

 

Jason

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On ‎11‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 10:12 PM, GrzeM said:

Techmod recently upgraded their technology, both in print quality and in film medium.

But I've never had any problems with even old Techmod decals (and I have used big sheets of their Lozenge on sometimes very complex surfaces).

 

Libor, your work is stunning!!!

Thanks for the info! Actually, I never had troubles with older ones too, e.g. those in the Sword kits.

 

Now, it is time to dealt with the details. On the spinner I drilled out the solid centre part which is suppose to be the cannon barrel, and then cut the "teeth" on it for the external starter (Hucks system). Yak's engines were started using compressed air, but the option for the Hucks remained on the spinner, perhaps as a back up measure. The cannon barrel will be then inserted inside later on.

 

Next I painted the undercarriage parts and installed them.

 

 

 

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Hi Libor

I'm a big fan. Could you say more about how you made the canopy section. I get that you used the former but how did you heat the sheet for the new canopy. How did you hold the soft plastic while doing the plunge.

Regards Mike VE

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Hi Mike, the former is fixed in a firm clamp and a piece of foil (size approx. 4 x 4 cm so you have enough to hold it by the sides in fingers) is heated above a source of heat. I use a candle with aluminium cap (that cheap stuff from a household shop, here we call it "tea candle") and once the foil is heated enough it starts looks like a jelly, and this is the right time to push it against the former. It is just a matter of trial and error approach, you can get the right one only you get all yours fingers burned (joking, please wear some gloves when heating the foil). Hope it helps!

Cheers

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Libor, did you use the masks on the wheels - the undercarriage look brilliant!

 

Regards,

 

Jason

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