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Defiant WIP


alecras234

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Hi I'm building an airfix 1 48 scale Boulton Paul Defiant NF1 and I'm having trouble painting the fuselage. For the first coat I didn't thin the paint but it was an even coat, still details showed through. After that I gave it a few more thin washes but I noticed on one side grey streaks are showing as though it looks weathered. How can I get rid of these grey streaks please?

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Would another thin layer of paint even things out? Or do you mean the brush strokes are visible? In that case, I would just leave it be - trying to fix that usually creates mores problems than it solves. Real easy to get brush strokes. Maybe trying to sand it with very fine sand paper - but there's a risk of sanding too much and getting uneven paint coverage while trying to retouch what you have lost with the sanding. So the end result might look worse. And personally I would not strip all the paint unless the brush strokes were totally horrible - I would finish the kit, be proud of it and take what I had learned to the next kit :) 

 

For future reference, big brush and thin paint can help lessen the problem - but there really is only one solution to completely avoid it;  it's called airbrush :P Sorry that I couldn't be more help.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The paint looks even now and im happy.   Eventually I want to have my model on a diorama on a marshy area that in Southport where a BP Defiant NF1 shot down a JU 88A5, so i want to build both aircraft and have the on stands on the diorama.   I've no idea how im going to make the diorama but i want the models ready first.    

 

Should I have the defiant weathered looking, it'll be on a stand.   If so, how do i go about making it look weathered?   Ihave Dark dirt clay wash,   what varnish should i use?

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1 hour ago, alecras234 said:

Should I have the defiant weathered looking, it'll be on a stand.   If so, how do i go about making it look weathered? 

It depends, on how the NF I was painted,  some early on were done with a paint called RDM2, that was  very matt and weathered really badly.

there is a a monograph on Defiant camo and markings here

https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Modeling-References/Camoflage-Markings/08-Boulton-Paul-Defiant

 

this is the specific pages

Boulton%20Paul%20Defiant%208%20(20)-960.

 

Boulton%20Paul%20Defiant%208%20(22)-960.

 

So, depends if your's is DTD 308, or RDM2A....

 

some Defiants did get REALLY tatty!

Boulton-Paul-Defiant-MKI-RAF-256Sqn-JT-S

 

 

BUT, I don't think this is typical...

 

there are more shots here

https://www.asisbiz.com/Defiant.html

 

I think that there have been WIP on Defiants weathering night finish... I'll add them in if I can find them.

 

HTH

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22 minutes ago, Kushan_Farsight said:

 Crikey, i think that ive only seen IL-2's in this kind of condition! any idea why this was allowed to get to such a 'rustic' appearance?

The black paint used was well... rather rubbish and chipped like crazy.

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Not chipping, I think, but it could rub off onto the hands so any wear showed up something rotten.  It was eventually replaced after DH told the Ministry it cost 23mph on the Mosquito.  Actual trials at Boscombe didn't find anything quite so extreme, but similar comments were coming from trials on night bombers such as the Halifax.  At that time the Hali was suffering with problems of over weight and excessive drag partly due to excessive requirements, so any penalty from the paint was the last thing needed!

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If you know what was going on, then you'll have a better idea on what you have to represent and hence (hopefully) how you go about it.  If you are doing an aircraft painted with RLM2 it will be very very matt when new and very very patchy when old.  Whatever you are doing, a very dark grey is better than a pure black, but in this case perhaps a satin dark grey undercoat with very patch matt black for the surviving bits of RDM2, which will not be around the leading edges, where people clamber up to the cockpit or remove engine panels 

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