Walter Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Just finishing off my he219 try to attach the nose dipoles. It's fiddly as he'll, nothing fits properly, I the drop it countless times as it flicks off my tweezers, spend 15 minutes looking for it on the floor...twice. then they all break off. Grrr! 5 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fin Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 I don`t know how to help, but I`ll give you a sympathy like for your situation. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welkin Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 You're not the only one - I hate photoetch! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lasermonkey Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 As do I! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 34 minutes ago, Walter said: Just finishing off my he219 try to attach the nose dipoles. It's fiddly as he'll, nothing fits properly, I the drop it countless times as it flicks off my tweezers, spend 15 minutes looking for it on the floor...twice. then they all break off. Grrr! Are you doing the Dragon 1/72nd kit ? If so i just did one a few months ago and used Gel C/A for the P/E dipoles. Silly technique following, but what works for me is i have to hold it and blow hot breath on it. It seems to set the c/a quicker. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 I have the Platz kit so idenitcal. I do a simlar thing but need to buy a gel CA that's a very good idea. How did you go with the PE ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 44 minutes ago, Walter said: I have the Platz kit so idenitcal. I do a simlar thing but need to buy a gel CA that's a very good idea. How did you go with the PE ? Hello Walter.. Heres my build. They're not perfect by any shake of the imagination, but good enough for me. As for Gel C/a’s there are few types out there but most people seem to buy the generic types at dollar stores others use the gorilla glue brand. I use a product called BSI Creos gel myself. Dennis 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Russell Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: what works for me is i have to hold it and blow hot breath on it. It seems to set the c/a quicker. Sensible technique as cyanoacrylate hardening is catalysed by water vapour! PS - I'm no fan of PE but it's sometimes the best technique 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck1945 Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Lately I have experimented with flexible CA. It really isn’t what we would call flexible, but it is slower setting and results in a less brittle (less prone to shear breakage) join - more time to set up, allows small adjustments before it completely hardens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 I'll have to use an antena from the other build, then its finished. I will post some pics so you guys can tell me where I can improve, always learning I say. I know now I should have test fit the dipoles and and masts prior to glueing. Lesson learned. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 12 minutes ago, Walter said: I will post some pics so you guys can tell me where I can improve, always learning I say. I know now I should have test fit the dipoles and and masts prior to glueing. Lesson learned. Looking forward to it, true this is a never ending learning game. Ive been doing this for 40 years and I'm still learning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWM Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 The lost of small elements on flour proove existance of so called "carpet monster" who eat all those parts! He used to live in all modellers houses More seriously - you can do antena of of scrach, they are just wires which you cand substitute by other wires or even extended plastic sprue. This is my Monogram 1/72 Do 17z converted (scratch) to Do 215 B with scratch antena And similar with Do 17 N2 (ok, one wire is bound) Be sure - yes you can! J-W 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicarage Vee Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 I agree JWM. Photo-etch is great for certain things, but there are other items included on etch frets that can be made as convincing, or often more convincing, by other means: be it wire, plasticard or resin/plastic blocks etc. Etch has its place as do so many other materials and techniques, it's all a case of experimenting and going with something that works for you as an individual. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnAndersen Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 10 hours ago, Walter said: Just finishing off my he219 try to attach the nose dipoles. It's fiddly as he'll, nothing fits properly, I the drop it countless times as it flicks off my tweezers, spend 15 minutes looking for it on the floor...twice. then they all break off. Grrr! Well we have all been there... Regarding the sudden ping as another piece of etch goes ballistic, Have you tried to fit some fine rubber tubing over the end of the tweezers? HTH Finn 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toryu Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 What you say! I sometimes wonder if it's the PE parts, the CA glue or just my clumsiness... 😀 For antenna and the like I never use PE even if they look nice in the closed envelope. The moment you take them out they start bending and will never be straight again. Every part that may bend when touched accidently I replace either with a steel metal pin (like a needle - for bigger diameters) or a hair from a broom or brush (hair brush, painters brush - stiff but flexible - can even be formed into a slight curve by pulling along length-wise or rolling with a round pencil). Over time I have developed a number of techniques for special situations like antenna wire lead-ins, criss-crossing them, flat vs. round etc. It may not be to everybody's liking but for me it works fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 For small dipole aerials, try using a suitable gauge of Nylon fishing line. To put pre-formed holes in epoxy moulds I use the following technique for straightening Nylon line, which can then be chopped up to any required length. I have a strip of aluminium, roughly 25 mm wide and 150 mm long by 1.5 mm thick. Drill a small hole in a corner of the Ali, then saw a fine 'V' shaped slot into one of the 25 mm ends of the metal strip. Pass the Nylon line through the hole and tie a knot in it to secure the line. Then wind the line lengthwise around the 150 mm long Ali strip, making sure that it is tight. Finish the turns by pulling the line tightly into the 'V' notch to lock it. Hold the assembly with pliers and plunge into nearly boiling water. Allow to heat up for a while and then run the assembly under cold water to cool thoroughly. With a craft knife, chop out the straight lengths about 10 mm from the ends. You will now have perfectly straight lengths of Nylon rod. Cut this to your desired sizes and it will glue well with super glue. It will remain straight but it will also have a bit of flexible "bounce back". A similar technique can be used by coiling the Nylon tightly onto a suitable diameter aluminium or brass tube to make circular Loop aerials. Just cut off a loop and secure the ends with super glue. Nylon is much better with this technique than Styrene. Keep the surplus in a tin. The staple like hand hold steps can also be made this way by rounding the edges of some suitable width square rod. John 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Haven't started the build yet, but I purchased the turned brass FuG 220 from Master. I think those look pretty good. Cheers, Luka 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 50 minutes ago, Luka said: Haven't started the build yet, but I purchased the turned brass FuG 220 from Master. I think those look pretty good. Cheers, Luka Yeah looks like a better out of the box solution as long as it fits together nicely or with minimal fuss. They always look good in the marketing material. Here's being a real sceptic now...lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 2 hours ago, John Aero said: For small dipole aerials, try using a suitable gauge of Nylon fishing line. To put pre-formed holes in epoxy moulds I use the following technique for straightening Nylon line, which can then be chopped up to any required length. I have a strip of aluminium, roughly 25 mm wide and 150 mm long by 1.5 mm thick. Drill a small hole in a corner of the Ali, then saw a fine 'V' shaped slot into one of the 25 mm ends of the metal strip. Pass the Nylon line through the hole and tie a knot in it to secure the line. Then wind the line lengthwise around the 150 mm long Ali strip, making sure that it is tight. Finish the turns by pulling the line tightly into the 'V' notch to lock it. Hold the assembly with pliers and plunge into nearly boiling water. Allow to heat up for a while and then run the assembly under cold water to cool thoroughly. With a craft knife, chop out the straight lengths about 10 mm from the ends. You will now have perfectly straight lengths of Nylon rod. Cut this to your desired sizes and it will glue well with super glue. It will remain straight but it will also have a bit of flexible "bounce back". A similar technique can be used by coiling the Nylon tightly onto a suitable diameter aluminium or brass tube to make circular Loop aerials. Just cut off a loop and secure the ends with super glue. Nylon is much better with this technique than Styrene. Keep the surplus in a tin. The staple like hand hold steps can also be made this way by rounding the edges of some suitable width square rod. John Show us a picture of your tool this is a great solution. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roginoz Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Careful ! This is a family site.......... :o} 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golikell Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) I can concur on this one: I help my son with his build of a ship: the 1:350 Bronco USS San Antonio. You are supposed to add tiny PE wipers on this one. 2 have done PLING on my first try. Not sure how many spares there are, and if I will retry adding them... Edited October 18, 2019 by Golikell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) I’m just finishing off my KFS EE Thunderbird and it has 114 etch pieces. It’s done but never again, I’ve had a lifetimes worth in one build. Steve. Edited October 18, 2019 by speedy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don149 Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 I`ve just finished theMiniArt Grant and only used about 1/3 of the PE . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncletommy Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 If your photo etch is going "ping" into the great unkown, never to be seen again, you may want to try using one of these handy, dandy little gadgets. Pick 'em up thingy Werks fer me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holzhamer Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 PE is useful but not to replicate things that aren’t flat, like radar dipoles. Those from Master, etc are far better and easier to work with. Another good medium is a soft, malleable resin that Cavalier productions use (or used cause it’s been years since I last heard from that company). I think OWL also uses this stuff for their aerial radars set even PE Instrument panels can be a let down in some cases Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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