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Awesome work and the DC is looking the part! Thanks for sharing the progress and tips on constructing (and improving) airliners!

 

Jan

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On 11/14/2019 at 8:09 PM, phil1 said:

absolutely outstanding piece of modelling mate. the cockpit and engines are a knock out, a mini model in itself.

 

MRP - are these the only lacquer based paints on the market? for large sections like fuselage and wings i've used tamiya spray paints because of the quick drying times and the quality of the finish but I've been unaware of airbrush lacquer based

 

phil

thx phil!

i always try my best, but building models takes sooo long 😩

 

i promise i will take it one or two further steps up with my next model. i always practice to improve all skills for some very special builds. learning here a lot from the military guys, they have lots of good techniques and this forum is just perfect to copy a lot of this stuff 🙂

 

MRP calls them acrylic laquers. so actually i dont know what it really is 😄  honestly i prefer longer drying times, the quick ones usually leave orange skin or dust on large areas.

even tamiya or gunze offer laquer paints...quite a few on the market

Edited by RCI

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Looking good! I like those engines, they are very smart!

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Finally, allthough i missed my goal to finish it early Nov, i could make some progress.

Yesterday night i repainted the Tail with a slightly lighter purple and now i m really happy with the result. some clean up still needs to be done, next step is the grey belly!

 

IMG_9996 IMG_9997

 

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had a run today...

here i was drawing the masks for the stabilizer guard, cut them with my silhouette and tadaaaaa... grey belly. but its not yet finished, cause i have seen that the belly is divided by 2 different shades of grey.

 

IMG_9999 IMG_0001 IMG_0002 IMG_0003

 

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1 hour ago, Timski1 said:

The colour choices look spot on, immaculate build you have coming on :) 

thx man! 🙂

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a little bit proud, cause with tons of work i finally managed to get the bird kind of alive! i m still thinking about the next step, it might be decaling.

 

IMG_0008 IMG_0009

 

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so lesson for today:

DACOs strongest decal solution is just too strong for these probably almost 20 year old Liveries Unlimited decals. The shrinking and wrinkle process is fine but they dont align properly. at least the tamiya stuff is able to fix it.

so, i was a bit afraid of the big titles, but lucky me, all went fine. the white decal is ok, but not the best, i can live with that.

 

i had to use a water bubble to level the stand and the aircraft, because the title on the tail is level with the fuselage but not with the No2 engine itself. i love doing these kind of things :D

 

 

IMG_0013 IMG_0014 IMG_0012

 

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15 hours ago, Graeme H said:

Oooh, getting ready for Tom Hanks soon

jepp 🙂 and you are probably even righter than you think! cause this is the old fedex scheme before they revised some titles.

 

progress is coming along...

not really happy with the window frame, cause the masking is visible. cant change that, maybe it improves with the clear coat, otherwise i can live with it.

 

 

IMG_0020

 

IMG_0021

 

 

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Taking on her own life. She's beautiful. The livery decals are looking really nice. And the cockpit windows are gorgeous. Wow.

 

Now....how to fix the nose gear.......just another challenge to surmount. No worries.......

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1 hour ago, Challenger350Pilot said:

Taking on her own life. She's beautiful. The livery decals are looking really nice. And the cockpit windows are gorgeous. Wow.

 

Now....how to fix the nose gear.......just another challenge to surmount. No worries.......

Agreed - she's looking very good!

 

As for the nose gear, if like me you broke the leg then it can be fixed with brass rod & tube (if you have them).  I found it very difficult to get the length of the repaired leg correct (so that the top of the fuselage was level) so these are the steps I finally took with my KLM version:

 

Drill top of lower leg assembly and glue in a (longish) length of thin rod.  Cut a length (enough for the top end to disappear out of sight inside the wheel well) of tube and slide over the rod.  Drill a clearance hole for the rod in the ceiling of the wheel well and then gradually trim the rod until it rests against the inside top of fuselage and is the correct length for the fuselage to be level (I checked with a small spirit level).  This sounds a rather rough and ready method but it did work!

 

Mike

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Excellent decaling work! 👏 Now it’s obvious that you’re mixed the tail color absolutely right.

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5 hours ago, FortyEighter said:

Agreed - she's looking very good!

 

As for the nose gear, if like me you broke the leg then it can be fixed with brass rod & tube (if you have them).  I found it very difficult to get the length of the repaired leg correct (so that the top of the fuselage was level) so these are the steps I finally took with my KLM version:

 

Drill top of lower leg assembly and glue in a (longish) length of thin rod.  Cut a length (enough for the top end to disappear out of sight inside the wheel well) of tube and slide over the rod.  Drill a clearance hole for the rod in the ceiling of the wheel well and then gradually trim the rod until it rests against the inside top of fuselage and is the correct length for the fuselage to be level (I checked with a small spirit level).  This sounds a rather rough and ready method but it did work!

 

Mike

haha thx for the idea, i have to say that i am quite experienced in fixing this stuff cause i keep breaking small parts all the time haha. actually your idea is quite similar to mine. i normally take a thin rod , like 0.75mm or less, drill holes in both parts and connect them with this rod. that usually works fine.

however i will do this at the very end, cause thats keeps me away from breaking it again. once it is attached it shouldnt crash anywhere, so hopes are that it keeps its shape haha 🙂  by the way, this technique is great if you want to show your model taxiing in a corner!

 

So, after 3 days of work, i some managed to finish decaling except for the nose wheel doors. they are seperate. its really quite a task to decal the bomber, especially with the Authentic decals detail sheet... you have to cut out any necessary single stencil. 

In the end there was one thing missing, which is the red stripes near the avionics compartment - i ended up painting a clear decal and cut out the stripes. some of the old LU decals also made some trouble, they set and solve differently, allthough same fluids used.

 

Some of the titles need quite some layers of clear coat, but thats another thing.

So, just finished painting all the gear parts in MRPs boeing grey, next step either clear coating or masking tyres ...still a lot to do on the Landing gear.🤷‍♂️

 

have a look at the depth in the cockpit, that is why i prefer clear windows.

 

IMG_0025 IMG_0026

 

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so, that thing is really massive, especially when it comes to polish.

Landing gear is also done. will post some pics next few days. Added some hydraulic lines and used molotov chrome for the shock struts.

i ll have to make some pics at daylight where the polishing is present.

i m quite happy, allthough i messed the Nr2 intake a bit, have to repaint it in white, which is fine, cause i ll do the antennas as well in white.

also Authentic airliners PE arrived, so these will be attached at the very last step.

 

things to do now:

- repaint Nr2 intake

- mask and paint all leading edges with Mr Hobby Super silver

- washing and post shading

- attachment of gears and engines

- attachment of antennas and pitots

 

will see what i forgot 😄

 

 

IMG_0041 2 IMG_0042 2 IMG_3892

 

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Hey Jeff,

 

yes, i did. just the regular tamiya panel accent stuff. I will post some more pics of the gear tonight. also the metal leading edges are finished. they look quite ok, i switched to alclad and used 3 different shades.

12 hours ago, pinky coffeeboat said:

Your main u/c legs and wheels look great - did you put a wash ovet them?

 

Jeff

yes 🙂

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Love the landing gear! The Tamiya Accent color used as a wash is brilliant, and works so well. How about the hydraulic and brake lines on the gear struts...what did you use to do those? They look like they might be rigid...how would you make them rigid? 

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3 hours ago, Challenger350Pilot said:

Love the landing gear! The Tamiya Accent color used as a wash is brilliant, and works so well. How about the hydraulic and brake lines on the gear struts...what did you use to do those? They look like they might be rigid...how would you make them rigid? 

 

Hi! they are kind of rigid, made of tinsolder, so you can form them afterwards. like it more than wire 🙂

the tamiya stuff is not bad, but it can be hard to remove the excess. i think i will try some oil wash next time

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sooo... i have done all panel line washing, all weathering and post shading. went well so far. i decided to make this bird dirty, some of these old horses really look badly used 🙂 so my one is not one fresh from the factory.

after doing all this i came to the attachment of the stabs and engines. Eastern express wants me to take the plastic connections included in the kit, basically they are simple plastic locator pins. i dcided to not use them, caues they will just break for sure :D🤦‍♂️ so i deicded to take their method but instead i was going for steel rods. much better! so what i did on the stabs was useful for these engines too... looks like this:

 

 

IMG_7866

 

IMG_1742

 

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in generell the fit of this kit is not really tamiya like. to my great surprise the fit of the stabilizer was almost perfect. Angle and alignment was just the way it should be. not so with the engines.

i expected something like this, and i hate gaps/clearances where there are none on the real aircraft ...thats why i never prefered the "paint wings before attachment" technique. but every modeller has his own expectations and views on an aircraft/model.

So there was the big gap, the with right angle you could see the light through the pylon joint. i thought on how to fix it as a smart repair and specially to avoid painting again.

So here i found a method that is really working well on a grey wing. the finished picture here doesnt really represent the improvement, but it is huge. i will do this again in the future...

 

1. mask it with tamiyas flexi tape - must be very accurate, the pylon seal is something like 0.3mm or so

2. apply Mr.Surfacer 500 , be generous but dont flood it

3. take off the masking tape as long as it is fluid

4. watch how the seal form it self into the gap

 

the color is a bit darker than the wing grey, so it looks like there is still a shadow of the gap, but its not :D

IMG_9483 IMG_8738 IMG_7926

 

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Such a better technique than what I have done in the past. I really like the idea of using Mr. Surfacer; its thicker than what I have used and makes more sense. I have blended a small amount of paint from the surface with thin cement, then slowly and sparingly injected it into the gap. The liquid blends to both surfaces and closes the gap completely...takes two or more applications, but as it dries is quite effective. But....if I inject too much, a disaster ensues that really makes cleanup and correction very difficult...if I inject just enough, it goes quite well. I would think Mr. Surfacer, being thicker, wouldn’t run, and thereby would avert that disaster. Thanks for this lesson...brilliant!  

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what a mission of a WIP - and a stunner in the making there - I've enjoyed every second of your 4 pages so far - good luck with the remainder of the final assembly stages

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