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DHC-6 Twin Otter -Trans Maldivian Airways


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I'm joining in with this Revell boxing of the Matchbox DHC Twin Otter. 

 

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Not not satisfied with the complexity of a floatplane I am going to attempt a fairly complex civil livery of this TMA aircraft that we flew in on holiday a few years ago

 

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 Though this task has been made a lot easier with these 26decals transfers. The set includes a template for the extra door window  and a set of masks. 

 

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There's a fair few pieces but for an elderly kit they are well moulded

 

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And no denying it's Matchbox heritage. 

 

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Small but clear set of transparencies, I'll dip them in  Kleer 

 

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The kit has a lovely transfer sheet. Apart from the IP and seat belts it won't be used. 

 

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Comprehensive set set of instructions going over a few pages. 

 

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Now to get some paint on. 

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Thanks @jrlx, @Courageous, @Bob_C and @Graeme Hfor your kind words. I'm already enjoying this build enormously. There is very little flash or ejection marks. And the fit is really good. 

 

Now some paint on. Revell suggest a light grey for the interior. However my photos show the cockpit is light grey but the main cabin is a beige/cream colour from just below the windows and a very dark grey above. I've used Humbrol Hu237 Desert Sand for the cream and Light Aircraft Grey for the light grey.  Need to have a think for the dark grey. 

 

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Glued a number of major parts together, a small amount of filler is needed around the engines and the nose. There is a small mould depression at the rear of the floats. 

 

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But the fit is good as can be seen from the float top joins. 

 

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The interior was covered in formed plastic, that was normally the beige/cream colour from new, and the original cockpit interior was a turquoise green not a lot different to the Russian interior colour on their MiGs etc, so that dark grey would be a repaint somewhere in it's life, and I wouldn't overthink it, but with a dark grey I would be inclined to go a bit lighter than what you think it should be.

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18 hours ago, Graeme H said:

The interior was covered in formed plastic, that was normally the beige/cream colour from new, and the original cockpit interior was a turquoise green not a lot different to the Russian interior colour on their MiGs etc, so that dark grey would be a repaint somewhere in it's life, and I wouldn't overthink it, but with a dark grey I would be inclined to go a bit lighter than what you think it should be.

Thanks Graeme. The cockpit definitely looks like a light grey as can seen here.  It looks quite fresh so it's probably a repaint. 

 

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I've given the cabin a first coat of dark sea grey which looks about right. 

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On 10/15/2019 at 10:19 PM, Graeme H said:

Wow, that's not just a repaint, but a whole new cockpit, those LCD displays are something from the here and now not anything that DHC put in

The cockpit certainly looks modern although the cabin was fairly basic. Litle  square seats, worn black leather (or mock leather), on an angle steel frame, very 'used' lap belts, and the luggage carefully piled up at the back of the cabin restrained by a net. Not built for comfort and it was a quantum leap from the Emirates A380 we arrived in Mali on. The flight was about 30 minutes and I loved every minute of it. Both ways. And on the way back we got the bonus of an extra take off and landing at another atoll. 

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The TMA Otter needs an additional window in the door. I'm never good at these sort of things but here we go. First marked up and a hole drilled in the centre. 

 

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A series of small holes were chain drilled round the edges, cut out with a knife and tidied up with a selection of needle files to give this

 

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Which is not too bad. Not perfect but should pass muster. 

 

Another addition for later are additional float supports with steps across them. I have enough photographs to be able to knock these up later from plastic strip. 

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Revell give you transfers for the IP and seat belts which I duly popped on before going out to work yesterday. Left them to dry and set about putting the cockpit together only to find that I have applied them to the wrong side of the IP.  Doh, what a dummy. Mind you from the photo above it doesn't represent wha the IP looks like now, so I added a bit of paint to the crest side and dry fitted the cockpit. And hardly anything can be seen. So, I'll proceed with that. 

 

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Ive also glued up the wings, added the engine nacelles and smoothed them all off. I also added the flap actuators. One is missing on each side as it is likely to be where the masking for painting the nacelles will go. They can be added near the end. Also added the finlets  to the tailplanes. The fit has been great. A little bit of filler was needed around the nacelles but not too much. Oh and the interior has been painted. And on dry fit almost nothing can be seen. So no need to add more detail. 

 

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The transparencies were dipped in Kleer and left to dry. I gently removed them from the sprue with a scalpel and trimmed the sprue gate off and fixed them in place with a smear of Krystal Kleer PVA around the window edge. Lifeted the window with tweezers and gently dropped it into position with any adjustment done using the back of the scalpel blade. Did them one by one alternating between the fuselage sides. The new door window will be added using Krystal Kleer after painting. Once dry I got carried away and popped the cockpit in. 

 

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Added the rear bulkhead also. Now with the bit between my teeth I thought' 'is there any reason not to close up the fuselage?'  And the answer is NO. So closed up. 

 

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Nose on as well, will need a little filling. That seam along the top of the fuselage looks worse in the photo than it is. It'll need a small amount of filler and some gentle sanding and polishing. There's no panel lines on the fuselage top to worry about so I should get a good finish. 

 

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I taped the wings on to see what it looks like and boy it's quite big. You can also see the plastic strip used to tidy up the nose join. 

 

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Today's work was to add filler, sand it down and polish it all up. It took a little time but no real problems. Well apart from one thing. I half filled the nose cone with Liquid Lead to prevent a tail sitter. I fixed it in with some superglue and it was fine.. when I was sanding all I could hear was some rattling as a number had worked loose and were running down the interior. Luckily I had not fixed the windscreen so I've been able to tip most of the loose ones out. Hopefully not too many as the Twin Otter does have a massive tailplane. The fin and rudder puts a Tornado into second place as a 'Mighty Fin'.

 

I'll put some Mr Surfacer on to check there's no flaws. 

 

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I’m a fan of liquid gravity but some of it always seems to get away. One or two of my models sound a bit like maracas.

 

Nice work on the Twotter, following along and looking forward to more of it

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A few things to consider also, the wings as Matchbox made them have no dihedral, which is very wrong, most don't bother to correct this, as it means you have to fix the length of the wing struts,

also they have put two circles on the fuselage on the starboard side, which match the 2 on the port side, these are the fuel filler caps, and they are only on the posrt side fill the ones on the starboard side 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/25/2019 at 11:18 PM, Graeme H said:

A few things to consider also, the wings as Matchbox made them have no dihedral, which is very wrong, most don't bother to correct this, as it means you have to fix the length of the wing struts,

also they have put two circles on the fuselage on the starboard side, which match the 2 on the port side, these are the fuel filler caps, and they are only on the posrt side fill the ones on the starboard side 

Thanks for the heads up @Graeme H  I didn't realise about the dihedral so went looking through my photos and sure enough although it's not obvious from the side views, in one shot I have from directly behind there is a clear dihedral. I've tried to find a way of posting it but have not found a way from my phone to my iPad. 

 

You don't have idea of how much it is? I think I can manage it with some laminations at the fuselage end of the wing strut and filler in the wing joint but if you know how much an extension would be needed?

 

The extra filler points can be swiftly sanded off. 

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On 10/25/2019 at 6:18 PM, Graeme H said:

A few things to consider also, the wings as Matchbox made them have no dihedral, which is very wrong, most don't bother to correct this, as it means you have to fix the length of the wing struts,

also they have put two circles on the fuselage on the starboard side, which match the 2 on the port side, these are the fuel filler caps, and they are only on the posrt side fill the ones on the starboard side 

Just a reminder -- if it hasn't already been logged -- that many of the Twin Otter models had props that feathered automatically on shutdown. Check photos of your particular a/c to be sure.

 

Great work so far, love the build!

Cheers.

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On 08/11/2019 at 12:28, thorfinn said:

Just a reminder -- if it hasn't already been logged -- that many of the Twin Otter models had props that feathered automatically on shutdown. Check photos of your particular a/c to be sure.

 

Great work so far, love the build!

Cheers.

It's a feature of the PT engine on dozens of different aircraft 

Not sure of the exact dihederal let me check my references when I get home next week

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