Frah2o Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 2/2 After many matt clear coat i started and finished the work with rivets (on ral car are spherical hex bolt). I put the rivets and xf56 color and a final black panel line I also addes rivets and head crew inside the bathtube following the references pics. For herad screw i used PE generic set for 1/12 motogp I also little detail the brake bias control and i also modified the fitting syestem for future connection to extra cable inside the tunnel leg I clear gloss coated the Ayrton seat to coat the carbon, next step will be the padding in the balck area with ducktape as on real MP4/4-02 I also replaced the throttle cable, the first version is too bigger size and wrong 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted October 21, 2019 Author Share Posted October 21, 2019 I made some shot with monocoque and nose cone....but I'm not satisfied with end result: the pale gold base is too much visible. I decrease the gold/bronze effect with another light coat of smoke, and now it's quite similar to real mocoque. The color change with different point of view and light. It changes in bronze, brown wit a littel bit green yellow...like the real mp4/4. I think to take the right way for this trouble. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted October 21, 2019 Author Share Posted October 21, 2019 I finished the coat work on radiator pods with some layer of matt clear. The carbon is quite on real car. Visibile only from very near I made some pics with all carbon toghter (just missing the undertray which need the carbon work) In every pics the color change...like on real car, i'm so satisfied with end result. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 I took the MC decal for undertray. Mc decal set containd a template to reproduce the lower side of fornt monocoque. Mc explain to fit the firsr carbon coat, the reproduce with tamplate a styrene 0.2 layer to coat with kevlar. This kevlar zone will connect to "U zone" on lower side of undertray Next and last step is to take the last mc decal set, and then i think (maybe) to finish with this carbon monster 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 Archived the Delta I can go back to my Mclaren .....I immediately went back to work on also for detoxify from my third Delta I admit that I had over an hour of blackout to try to get back on the reached building point. I started again from the carbon decal: After received the last sets of the Museum Collection decal, I continued the working on undertray I started the work on the front: I closed the injection points just leaving the central poins that will be covered from monocoque I work on two pieces that in the real car are one piece with undertray. These part are at base of inlet radiator pods I also worked on rear undertray/diffuser: The extractor is well done but the final part has thicknesses that looked like sidewalks. I started and finished the thinning work of the final parts of both the vertical bulkheads and the extractor itself (both laterally and in the central tunnel where there is the back of gearbox I masked the coloured zones (that are correct for future decal base color) and I painted the black zone in graphite gray. I Painted and removed the masking and then with a new blade I started to made some scratch on some credible areas where is possible contact with ground. When ‘ll finished the decal work, the future clear coating, I’ll use a white and gray chalk to try to relicate the ground contact like on references photo. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 I started the first part of the decal work on undertray and extractor. The MC decals are many and some different textures. I start to place theme in various step. I started with the first part of carbon (dark gray), the first part of kevlar (yellow) and the third brown area which is a mixed wood composite (I think the Jabroc). The T-tray for checking the height from the ground was imposed since (tragic) 1994. Meanwhile the decals rest one day, I start the rework on hubs My idea is to fill them and make them one-piece. My first problem was to separate the hub from the stub....and I didn't remember if I had used cyan or glue for ABS (and it would be a big problem) 3 days in the freezer and they jumped off quite easily 3 ... on the 4th I put it back in the freezer and it took me a little more than "love" but I managed to separate it unharmed ....... ah, luckily it was cyano glue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 After 3 day of decal work i finished the underside I rest the decal at least for 48 hours to set all decals. Than i'll start to coat with matt clear to protect the decal and avoid the risk of damage to the decals when i'll work on the upperside. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 Another problem is the loss of all caliper fitting pin on each hubs I whole remade the new pin with metal wire. I opened new fitting holes on hub and i fitted new metal wire to have a new pin I removed broken pins from caliper and i did a final fitting check with disc. I also opened the blanked holes on rear wheel hub FInally I Started the filling of mounting parts of the hubs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Impressive stuff. Should the calliper face not meet the hub directly rather than there being a section of the stud exposed? It may be that this is just whilst you are test fitting - but the callipers look a little far away from the hub in the 2nd picture of the assembled unit. Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCH Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) Frah2o - You are a MACHINE! I'll be using your work as reference on my 1/12 Tamiya. Damn fine work, as always. JCH Edited January 15, 2020 by JCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 On 15/01/2020 at 14:48, Kirk said: Impressive stuff. Should the calliper face not meet the hub directly rather than there being a section of the stud exposed? It may be that this is just whilst you are test fitting - but the callipers look a little far away from the hub in the 2nd picture of the assembled unit. Kirk Hi Kirk, you're right. The caliper is not possible to meet directly the hub due to the disc diameter. This difference it was also with the original plastic pins. So...the caliper are just dry fitted and need some fine work to match and fit right. Before to fit definetively the caliper, I need to work on the caliper to add the bleeder valves and hose connection for the two half calipers On 15/01/2020 at 16:53, JCH said: Frah2o - You are a MACHINE! I'll be using your work as reference on my 1/12 Tamiya. Damn fine work, as always. JCH Thanks much JCH....but you're doing a greater work on your Tamiya....i think you're Mclaren will be outstanding. I continued with some work I finished the carbon work on upper side of diffuseur zone. Now just remainig the final work of clear matt coating I started some little work on electrovalves of bypass circuit and for pressure/temperature of intercooler system. I would made a better job, but it was a sure broken if i tried to dismantle the valve from the bracket. So i made a little paint detail and i remade some joint. The Haynes book help me to understand the complicated bypass system I made some little details to the radiators: i remade the hose joint with a shrink and added a selfmade alu clamps I also little detailed the 3 main ecu: I cut the original plug and i added the top studio plug and some PE bolts on left radiator pod ecu. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 - I started the finishing work on underface of undertray. I spray 5 times of clear matt and final coat from far to give a rough look (especially in the flat zone). - I extra add joint and hose to the brakes and clutch tank. Just add for photo because i'll fit the nose cone that will hide it. - I polished the fire exstinguisher and the ducts from intercooler to inlet manifold. - I added the bolts (with punch & die) to gearknob bracket and a final paint touch. - I add some detail to showa sunspension control unit: i add the protection pad, the sticker R,F,E (rear, front, ecu), i added the fixing system to monocoque and i silver paint the plug to ECU. I also add the protection aluminium profile ad the base of tunnel legs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 - I erased the rivet and i added the bolt head with punch&die. I repainted all exhaust window in silver leaf - As i lost the original linkage for anti roll bar regulator, i remade it by myself. In the future i'll appky the new decal - I fitted monocoque to cockpit and linked all extra cable (anti roll bar, brake bias). The excess of rough will be covered by the seat - I fitted definitevely the hub (before drill all holes) - I started the extra detail for missing Jabroc stripes on inside face of vertical pillars of front wing. This smooth coccpit is the chassis n. 5 (at motegi museum); number 1 and 2 are carbon rough surface 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 I'm quite finished the front wing....but i'm not totally satisfied with the result 😕 - I applied the PE bolts on inside face of pillars on Jabroc strips - I slighty details on rivet of flap (just a little of panel line) - I write the script inside the front wing (I reply the chassis 2...chassis that Ayrton used to win Suzuka GP and championship in 1988) - I added a little screw head PE on wing screws that fixxed the pillars. - I black painted the screw like on 1:1 - Front wing completed....but i'n mot really satisfied. I would fill and make on pice the front of nose...but to do this will be a lot of modify and work (full repainting and decaling) So I will made this, i will have to full paint the bodyshell.....a really big and long work. Unfortunately i don't have time...on 7 march the mclaren must completed for display it at Modelspace italian stand of Model expo italy. So i don't have many times for work on bodyshell 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 (edited) 1/2 I started to work on gearbox to rest a bit form decalling work - I filled the gerabox half part and i black matt repainted - I coated in clear matt the suspensions arm bracket like I saw in references book - I made the missing oil gerabox cap, this cap also hide the screw - I remade the broken joint for absorber tank and new braided hose - I covered the screw of side joint for oil gerabox cooler - i cut the printed bolts and i remade new bolts with puch and die for gearbox case, suspension arms and absorber - I remade the joint for oil cooler Edited January 24, 2020 by Frah2o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 2/2 - I remade a little bit more rough welding lines on the oil tank\ vapor canister. - Some pics on gearbox work in progress 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 I started to study the fitting and system of some hoses and cables After watching somes pics I think to undertand the connection for fuel sistem. On the top of monocoque (between ecu unit and fuel filler) are two joints: the inlet and oulet fuel lines. These hose running and connect to fuel pressure valve that is on the rear of engine at the bottom of inlet manifold I also study the connection of some cooling hose I think to understand that the pink hose that start from each radiators, runs from radiators and goes to water tank that is under the manifold. On the right side of this tank there is the filler cap. From this cap start a hose that run near the manifold, run under the oil filler tank and finish on the rear of gerbox. This is the cooling bleeder hose I made a basical pics with the kit parts Another study is the oil gearbox cooler. On motegi chassis, the cooler is withot the thermometer. On race car there's 2 thermometer on the top of oil cooler. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Fantastic modelling. I particularly like the way you are analysing the systems as you build as a way to understand where lines connect etc. I always get stuck doing this (failure to identify components mostly) and this stalls the build. Incidentally, is the seam line on the upper wishbone bracket intentional? it doesn't seem like you to leave it there if not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted January 25, 2020 Author Share Posted January 25, 2020 On 24/01/2020 at 10:27, Kirk said: Fantastic modelling. I particularly like the way you are analysing the systems as you build as a way to understand where lines connect etc. I always get stuck doing this (failure to identify components mostly) and this stalls the build. Incidentally, is the seam line on the upper wishbone bracket intentional? it doesn't seem like you to leave it there if not. You're right Kirk, i sanded but with clear matt the seams is just visible on macro with pics and invisible with eye 😥. I noticed it only in pics. It's a my mistake.... 😔 I quite finished the gearbox, just remaining some little details (i try to removed the seam line that you noticed) that will be completed when i'll fit with RA168e - I fitted all hydraulic braided hoses (with heatshield alu) for gerabox lubrification and cooling system - I added some head nuts on rear antiroll bar for a little extra details - I placed the coooling bleeder hose that will run on water tank near the inlet manifold - I started the last part of carbon work on upper face of undertray. I started to work on template to understand the carbon that i need (also with future heatshield) - Just remaining some final nuts, but gearbox is quite completed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 Last week was holiday and I had 8 free days for work ..... I will bore you with a sequence of posts on the progress of work, Verona Model Expo is approaching and mclaren will must be ready for Modelspace stand After working on gearbox I come back to the extractor after it received a full matt clear Extractor: - slight wheatering to the exhaust frames with a mixture of burn blue and titanium powders - complete wheatering with brown powder to "filter" all the carbon that (like on references) is brown and very rough as a finish - With white chalk I highlight the previous scratches and I highlight the scrapes with the ground. - I laid the first part of the heat shield. The adhesive aluminum from DeA and mine was too thick as a texture. The shield looks almost smooth with a minimal texture. I took my aluminum and rolled it with the handle of the cutter and finally positioned. Engine oil cooler: The one proposed by DeA is correct in shape, but very rough and with too many joint lines. I filled with cyano glue, added welding lines and finally repainted in aluminum Alternator belt and pulley: - as usual in each kit the belts are huge in thickness I started to thin it in the hope of not breaking it .... at least I obtained the ideal thickness: black rubber on the belt, flat aluminum on the pulley and detail of the alternator pulley bolt. I Added PE bolts and perforated camshaft pulley carter as in references. Seat: - I Added cushion on the sacral area and I added strips for the lumbar and shoulder areas as in references Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 Exhaust turbo pipes - from previous work I had left out the 2 lambdas with relative protection. For the base I used a 2,5 m washer. aluminum-coated styrene tube and finally the lambda wiring Intake manifold - I installed the mounting system by opening the slot in order to insert the flange now welded to the ducts with the throttles that will join the intercoolers - Another difference is that the main body of the collector is a semi-opaque, the ducts of the butterflies are a little bit shiny black. - Another missing detail on the intake manifold is the missing of two bolts (perhaps for inspection or for other). Before being able to position them, I filed the poisition so as to make it oblique to give the right angle for the future bolts. Once this was done, I painted everything with the color combo described above and I made the bolts with the usual punch & die Wastegate - another peculiarity of this car is the different application of a wastegate pressure hose on the top of wastegate unit. This hose was not ever present in each GP. Fortunately, Hiro's book has a clear photo from above for Suzuka's GP, the tube was absent and there was the blind bolt. Throttle body control. - totally absent and quite visible in their absence. I tried to reproduce them in my best personal way. I used a U-folded aluminum tape and drilled with a 1.4 drill. I remade the spring with a 0.5 thread, everything was fixed with a screw. This will be followed by painting of the silver titanium brackets and future bolts - I started to work on the main throttle control bar controlled by the tie rod of gas cable to the pedal. Injector rail and fuel pressure valve: - the petrol pressure valve is drilled to add the inlet and outlet fuel hoses. These hoses will run from pressure valve to the top of monocoque between Ecu unit and fuel filler 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 I finished the carbon work on inside of front under tray section. I coated with clear matt and I finished the work with heat shield I started the work on scraped on the outside of under tray...but I must rework on this to dark a little bit the with scratches. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 I started the resto mode of my RA168E As suggested by good friend, all that is visible I must try to reproduced. I started by rebuilding the fixing brackets of the electrical connectors on the upper front of rocker covers. The connectors have been replaced with the TopStudio and the brackets have been painted in dark steel. I used the fixing plate of the engine to the monocoque to firmly fix the selfmade connector brackets Another missing details: - the brackets for the wastegate valves to avoid break due to excessive vibrations ... I selfmade with rod and I selfmade the little bracket on wastegate body and finally fixxed on the rear of cams cover. - Other detail missed: a hosethat start from the wastegate and link to a tank fixed behind the heads (I think a compensation tank for pressure signal - I made by myself the tanks that are positioned on the fixing screws (which were also hidden). The hose has been lined with heat shield aluminum I have also added a series of PE bolts both on the intake ducts and on the three Allen screws that secure the spark plug ignition cover. Another missing: the two sensors of the turbo pressure both on the turbo and on the exhaust manifold. To recreate the 4 snsors on the manifolds and on the turbos: base with punch & die painted in burnt red steel, a nut with 1.4 m bolt and a 1.2metal rod I also connected the oil-water cooler 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 I Connect the fuel inlet and oulet to the fuel pressure valve behind the intake manifold I Added the missing wiring of the coils and wastegate tanks Another mod:I added the filler cap of the water expansion tank. Pipe made from 2 mm tin and self-made plug (drilled to be connected to the bleed tube that will run along the gearbox). Then I added the future joint for the pipes that from the radiators will go to the expansion tank. And some final pics… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 Before to prooced with the mechanics, I need to work on some elements that are under processing by the expert and patient hands of my friends with some precision tools that I haven’t ..... so I moved my attention to the wings and bodyshell The rear wing: I went away from this element that always makes me fear Before starting, I analyzed the Gurney strip at the top of the highest profile: it was present in Suzuka. I covered it in carbon and behind I give a light coat of panel line to highlight the alley screws that fix the Gurney The central pillar was born divided by kits: now it was a little hard to fill and sand them in the middle: so I glued, I put aluminum strip and I think is a little better now. After this I started the assembly of wings and I can say that also this work is gone. After rear wing I returned to the bodyshell which has many small deficiencies: First of all, the heat shield: I only used it in the area of the intercoolers and turbo-exhausts as per narrow reference ..... my doubt is to know if there was also part of the hump. I asked Sandro and Riccardo and they told me that probably not ..... not happy I wrote an email .... to the Mclaren factory. Maybe they'll take me crazy and trash, maybe they'll answer me To finish the coating work I used the first shell as a template to avoid stressing the underlying carbon. Other missing and reproduced elements: - the fixing plate for the vents of the intercooler/radiators - upper Allen screws always for fixing these vents - paint detail bolts of transmission oil cooler vent - plates and Allen screws underneath the gearbox oil cooler Then I started studying the panels to increase and decrease the temperature of the radiator vents. The book explains that to keep the temperatures under control (depending on the circuits and also of the sessions) these bulkheads were increased / decreased. The flow and temperatures were regulated only at the exit as the entrance was fixed. Steve Nichols could vary these openings up to 8 times per session. This is to say that the Motegi MP4/4-5 is exposed with open vents. In Suzuka (in the race) Ayrton had these bulkheads mounted on his MP4/4-2 to keep the temperature warmer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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