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1:48 Wasserjungfer (kit bash)


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On 10/5/2019 at 9:46 PM, shortCummins said:

O don’t know if this is a “what-if” or “real” scheme 

It's a real scheme - pre-war Luftwaffe splinter, RLM61/62/63 over RLM65. This was the standard scheme before the greens RLM70/71 were introduced.

 

Cheers,

 

Andre

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36 minutes ago, Hook said:

It's a real scheme - pre-war Luftwaffe splinter, RLM61/62/63 over RLM65. This was the standard scheme before the greens RLM70/71 were introduced.

 

Cheers,

 

Andre

thanks for the info Andre

 

much appreciated 

rgds

John

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48902731922_18cff71280.jpg

 

I glued the ‘spar’ to the “lower” half of the wing, the lower part will become the upper side when the wings are attached.

48902893136_22e00157da_c.jpg

48902366973_46c6f1de01_c.jpg

The “upper” half(s) were then attached.

48902893101_62f7db7713_c.jpg

48902366863_9147aa0635_c.jpg

 

The centre section of the spar was removed with a razor saw.

48903419721_fb266dc85d_c.jpg

 

Next the wings were separated.

48903419656_a5775b9e6a_c.jpg

48902898693_98e0480dc3_c.jpg

48903419561_e4d938cbae_c.jpg

 

I had to see what they’ll look like attached to the fuselage so I used some blue-tac to hold them in place.

48903628992_b84c41e5a4_c.jpg

48903628967_a40e62865e_c.jpg

 

 

next I’ll be building outer engine nacelles.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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On 05/10/2019 at 20:46, shortCummins said:

However, whilst trawling the internet I came across this, sorry I don’t know who built this or the website it came from but its a really interesting scheme, anyone know if its a ‘real’ scheme?

48787636512_e554cd55ee_c.jpg

 

while  the ju87A wore this scheme, I think the only B where Hungarian, and I think it might be different,  as it's not a splinter pattern

Junkers-Ju-87B-Stuka-HAF-(B6+02)-Tapolca

the above is pre war, with the triangular markings, wartime is below, note the fin stripes

Junkers-Ju-87B-Stuka-HAF-(B6+02)-Hungary

 

some profiles are pretty poor, IIRC these are actual Hungarian colours (which are Hungarian versions of the 61/62/63 scheme) 

Me109F4-Hungary-Experimental-Camouflage-

 

which you may find interesting? 

And I owe you a PM....  which I will do later,  a i now need to do something else...

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17 hours ago, DalekCheese said:

Coming on great! Might a red stripe round the fuselage work on the camo? 🤔 could look good.

thanks DK

I'm probably going to paint the rudders red, possibly the all of the vertical stabilisers 

 

rgds

John

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11 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

 

while  the ju87A wore this scheme, I think the only B where Hungarian, and I think it might be different,  as it's not a splinter pattern

Junkers-Ju-87B-Stuka-HAF-(B6+02)-Tapolca

the above is pre war, with the triangular markings, wartime is below, note the fin stripes

Junkers-Ju-87B-Stuka-HAF-(B6+02)-Hungary

 

some profiles are pretty poor, IIRC these are actual Hungarian colours (which are Hungarian versions of the 61/62/63 scheme) 

Me109F4-Hungary-Experimental-Camouflage-

 

which you may find interesting? 

And I owe you a PM....  which I will do later,  a i now need to do something else...

thanks for those photos, I like tri-colour camo' I'm tempted to do variation of that scheme

 

rgds

John

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with regards to the booms... think first step is making the engine sections, then cutting some material from the middle of the rear parts to make them thinner (in the drawing on page 1 they seem thinner and longer, in the dryfit they seem short and bulky...)

 

then maybe a styrene frame sidings (sprue-runners at the inside to keep both parts at distance, and styrene sheet on the outside to make it smooth) to have some body in the middle...

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3 hours ago, Silenoz said:

with regards to the booms... think first step is making the engine sections, then cutting some material from the middle of the rear parts to make them thinner (in the drawing on page 1 they seem thinner and longer, in the dryfit they seem short and bulky...)

 

then maybe a styrene frame sidings (sprue-runners at the inside to keep both parts at distance, and styrene sheet on the outside to make it smooth) to have some body in the middle...

thanks Silenoz

that's good advice on building the frame sidings

 

rgds

John

48902898433_e070fce30f.jpg

 

The kit gives you the option of showing the engine covered or uncovered, this is fortunate for me as I’ll use the covered versions for the booms and an uncovered engine for the centre/fuselage one.

I followed the Airfix instructions to build up the covered engines.

48908828407_84ef2cf78a_c.jpg

48908092548_b770fa0117_c.jpg

48908828292_484e075723_c.jpg

48908828247_c3c14be7cd_c.jpg

48908623326_a963b2df83_c.jpg

48908828172_5635a3a4ca_c.jpg

48908828117_362e89b1de_c.jpg

48908623211_2f0b50680f_c.jpg

48908828042_7af9022fa5_c.jpg

 

Once again I wanted to get an idea of how everything looks…

48908623121_910f1d03bb_c.jpg

 

 

next I’ll be trying to fit the outer engine nacelles.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Have you thought about......

Move the booms inboard a bit, over the machine gun mounts? The wing is that little bit stronger there.

Of course then those outer propellers would interfere with the central propeller.

So, extend the nose 5 - 10 mm which would give plenty of clearance.

This also moves the CG forward which would counterbalance the weight of the gun at the rear.

Back then these engines were started with a crewman winding a handle, so that would have been interesting for the centre engine!

The other option is to ignore me. probably best 😄

 

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Just a thought om masrkings, have you looked at WW1 german,  they had lots of stylish fuslage markings, and also some very large gothic kind of crosses...

as many WW1 kits have multiple options, these mayhbe out there in spares land ...

eg https://www.eduard.com/eduard/albatros-d-v-1-48-1-3.html

8113_1.jpg

 

8113_2.jpg

 

8113_4.jpg

 

 

a wild card would be lozenge fabric decal,  possibly some for the 32ns scale kit for a different look? Wpould also be bigger sheets, and thus cover the stuka parts....

https://www.aviattic.co.uk/132-lozenge-decals.html

img-9583_orig.jpg

 

 

And there is also the camo colours, uppers in green and purple...

and here's the lot....

KAMO_B_05.jpg

 

hope of use

 

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13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Have you thought about......

Move the booms inboard a bit, over the machine gun mounts? The wing is that little bit stronger there.

Of course then those outer propellers would interfere with the central propeller.

So, extend the nose 5 - 10 mm which would give plenty of clearance.

This also moves the CG forward which would counterbalance the weight of the gun at the rear.

Back then these engines were started with a crewman winding a handle, so that would have been interesting for the centre engine!

The other option is to ignore me. probably best 😄

 

thanks Pete

 

the position of the booms isn't set in stone, yet, I'm minded to attach the boom engines slightly in from the front of the wing so the outer props will be behind the centre one anyway. I'm also trying to work out how I can make the rear of the booms longer as suggested by Silenoz as I think it will make her look more balanced.

 

please keep the suggestions coming, I may not always use them but they do give me valuable options

 

rgds

John

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10 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

Just a thought om masrkings, have you looked at WW1 german,  they had lots of stylish fuslage markings, and also some very large gothic kind of crosses...

as many WW1 kits have multiple options, these mayhbe out there in spares land ...

eg https://www.eduard.com/eduard/albatros-d-v-1-48-1-3.html

8113_1.jpg

 

8113_2.jpg

 

8113_4.jpg

 

 

a wild card would be lozenge fabric decal,  possibly some for the 32ns scale kit for a different look? Wpould also be bigger sheets, and thus cover the stuka parts....

https://www.aviattic.co.uk/132-lozenge-decals.html

img-9583_orig.jpg

 

 

And there is also the camo colours, uppers in green and purple...

and here's the lot....

KAMO_B_05.jpg

 

hope of use

 

thanks for those Troy

 

rather than German crosses I've made-up my own version...

48912115213_d9e105bc5f.jpg

 

I think I've settled on a variation of the splinter scheme where I'll use three colours RLM02 as the "base" colour with dark green and either black or brown, similar to the Hungarian schemes you showed me earlier, however I'm really quite a long way from thinking about paint and it could all change.

 

rgds

John

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29 minutes ago, shortCummins said:

please keep the suggestions coming, I may not always use them but they do give me valuable options

I was thinking this might look good with nose gear instead of a tail dragger setup ? Might give it a more aggressive stance on the ground. 
 

Dennis

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35 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I was thinking this might look good with nose gear instead of a tail dragger setup ? Might give it a more aggressive stance on the ground. 
 

Dennis

thanks for the idea Dennis unfortunately I think this would be beyond my skills, at the moment, but I agree it would make it look more aggressive.

 

rgds

John

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in this months Eduard magazine...

https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2019/info-eduard-2019-10en.pdf

 

they showcase a Finnish Blenheim Mk.1F built by Robert Szwarc with a black and green camo'...

48912812016_7fc93922ab_b.jpg

 

I really like the contrast and think this could work well as a tri-colour splinter camo

 

rgds

John

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21 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

 

Back then these engines were started with a crewman winding a handle, so that would have been interesting for the centre engine!

 

I forgot to mention earlier, kinda like what happened to Pat Roach in the 1st Indiana Jones film 😉

 

rgds

John

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