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Airfix Short Sunderland to Empire


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11 minutes ago, Adam Poultney said:

Is it even worth using the Airfix components?

The wings and tail are pretty good and certainly easier than starting from scratch. And I picked up a cheap “spares or repairs” kit so it’s no use for anything else!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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I’ve just had the opportunity to pop in and have a good read of this - what a fantastic project! I love builds if this nature and sorry to use a terrible cliche but this is ‘proper modelling’. 
 

This thread is now bookmarked and I’ll look forward to your updates. 
 

Tom

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2 minutes ago, tomprobert said:

sorry to use a terrible cliche but this is ‘proper modelling’. 

A skill completely lost on me... I'm trying my hand on major conversion with very limited scratchbuilding on a Vulcan B1a.

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3 hours ago, tomprobert said:

builds of this nature

Thanks Tom! I've been following your Shackleton and B-52 builds and they have been a real inspiration for this sort of thing.

 

3 hours ago, Adam Poultney said:

Vulcan B1a

Loving that conversion. The earlier the Vulcan is, the better-looking it is in my book.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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21 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

.oving that conversion. The earlier the Vulcan is, the better-looking it is in my book.

I would love to do a straight wing Vulcan, either XA890 or VX770 in first flight livery with the anti glare patch. Aircraft almost always look best as the designer originally envisioned.

 

 

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Hi Adrian

Crikey what a great project, this is truly inspiring, the fuselage build up is is amazing to watch, one of the favourite images is the one where the front shape of the fuselage was done, you have captured the beautiful shape very well indeed. 

Great work fella.

All the best

Chris

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12 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

Thanks Tom! I've been following your Shackleton and B-52 builds and they have been a real inspiration for this sort of thing. 

You’re very kind! 
 

I hope this wonderful build doesn’t suffer from the same burnout problems as the two of mine you mention: both are sitting forlornly in my attic waiting patiently for the spark to be reignited!

 

Tom

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A little bit more filler and then loads of sanding in the garden, followed by a touch of wet sanding:

EE878-E85-7447-4-DA0-8-E7-D-BF43092-D144

The curve cutting back down into the rear half of the planing bottom was interesting: the bulkheads on the plan show a much higher transition but I went with the lower line as seen in photos. There’s still a tiny discontinuity in the curve as it transitions when the planing bottom stops, but I will get to that during the tidy-up stage.

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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Sanding that curve between the planing bottom and the fuselage side looks to have been especially awkward: however you have made an excellent job of it. I am sure that it would not have been any easier with wood - the modeller just has to use the glasspaper, mk 1 eyeball and feel to get that right. This is looking better with every update.

 

P

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That hull looks fantastic. I'd always assumed that the rear of the step ran to a point as on most flying boats. I hadn't realised that on this boat it was square!

 

Ian

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5 minutes ago, limeypilot said:

it was square!

Thanks Ian. I've got some fill/sand/prime/repeat in my immediate future, and then I'm just trying to work out what to do next. I could just make a solid model with this (no windows), use it as a male vac form mould (vac forms will be around 1/2 mm too big all round if I use 40 thou) or try to cast a female mould around what I have (more biggish work and scary because of getting the original out without damaging that and the mould). I think I need a 3-D scanner!

 

Shorts changed the last step to a point on the "G" class boats. The "G" class makes the Empire boats look well-documented!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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There is one more possibility for consideration - you can cut out parts behind windows (for example cuting with electric micro circular saw like dremel and then use small chisel to remove balsa), then put some chairs inside etc. and finaly glue some 1 mm thick transparent palstic cards on sides (CD box), only masking windows with tape. This will asure you all windows in line. Maybe it should be done in sections, one by one, not to weak the structure.

The female vac sound also good.

Cheers

J-W

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What a fantastic work is being done here.

The use it as a plug to vacform the parts is indeed very tempting, even if you add the thickness of the sheet (NO kit that I posses is perfect in that regard).

Poses the issue of large equipment and having to halve the plug, though.

Making a boxed silicone female mold, pour resin (plaster?) and from that vac the parts?

I run out of convoluted and impractical ways to suggest for the moment.

Good work, that man.

 

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Moa said:

having to halve the plug, though

Well at least that's one problem I don't have! Back in post 30 you can see I made port and starboard profiles and tacked them together with a few spots of superglue. So they should come apart with encouragement from a razor blade. 

 

I'm coming to the conclusion that vac forming straight over the master copy with A3 size 40 thou/1 mm card is the way forward. When I've moulded canopies over plugs built the same way I do notice that they degrade pretty quickly due to a combination of the plastic formers deforming and the filler degrading with the heat.

 

I'm not even sure I know what I'd begin make a female mould out of, and I think that would send the price and bother of making a half-metre long female mould into the realm where I would be kicking myself not to have bought the CMR kit in the first place (but where's the fun in that, eh?). 

 

One interesting/crazy solution might be to vac-form a half, attach an inner ledge to it using something removable like PVA glue and then slosh resin around inside it to form a layer, repeating until thick enough. The lip would allow a mating surface to form. Then hope that resin doesn't stick to plastic card and prise it out, but that presupposes that we have got a vac first of all. I have some probably-time-expired resin in the garage so if I get a spare half I might give it a go.

 

Meanwhile I will go looking for some plywood and a largeish picture frame. My current vac form machine (top right) is a bit small at 10 cm square!

4460395-C-02-A7-4-C00-B349-5-F682-B1815-

 

Thanks,

Adrian

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1 hour ago, CliffB said:

smell-o-vision

I don't mind it but my family keeps popping in to tell me that they do! With vac-forming in the offing we have the smell of burning plastic to look forward to next!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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On 11/4/2019 at 11:23 PM, AdrianMF said:

I don't mind it but my family keeps popping in to tell me that they do! With vac-forming in the offing we have the smell of burning plastic to look forward to next!

 

Regards,

Adrian

The suffering of an Artist . Great work Looking forward to this in the gallery 

Martin H

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Terrific, determined craftsmanship.  Your sculpting has yielded a very convincing likeness.

 

That is one big, solid looking fuselage ... yet with the balsa internals I guess it would float!

 

I’ve tied my head in knots trying to think of some other clever method to translate this solid into skin, but all has been said already above I think ..

 

Keep up the good work!

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On 11/3/2019 at 8:18 PM, AdrianMF said:

So they should come apart with encouragement from a razor blade. 

Or with a droplets of acetic acid left overnight

 

Can you offer vac fuseages (when you'll do more of them)  for sale? :)

Cheers

J-W

 

 

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