Spitfire Mk1a - 1980's

[Andy350]

Hi, So this was my attempt to finally build this 33+ year old kit.  I started it when I was too young, never had the right paints etc.  The box had been moved around a lot, things were put on top of it.  I struggle with the under carriage, one of the legs broke, so I've had to have to leave this up.  I've used an air gun for the camo, not as bad as I thought it would be.

I need to apply decals, I've got "Decalfix" never used.  Would like to use some semi gloss clear as I picked up this up last week, but if that's wrong I won't use.

So, I'm looking at ways to make this look neater, more realistic and weathered.  I really need some pointers please, but happy to read up and look in the FAQ's.  Hopefully the pics work.

 

 

 

Not sure if I can make the lines any better?

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 26, 2019 by Andy350
Wrong pics

[Andy350]

I know it's not up to scratch, any feedback would be great.

[Smithy]

Could be the lighting but the brown colour (Dark Earth) doesn't look right to my eyes, too light and the shade seems funny. If it was me I'd repaint that first. Afterwards one of the most important things before decalling is to have a gloss coat so the decals can sit nicely without "silvering" (where the decal carrier film can be visible tending to give very noticeable whitish marks). Weathering is usually done after putting the decals and applying the final sealant coat, in this case a matt finish. Different people have different weathering techniques but I use a panel line wash and then pastel powders to mimic wear and tear, grime, exhaust and gun staining, etc.

 

Your best bet is to read as much as you can about scale modelling techniques and then have a go. This is your first build back in the hobby and like anything there's a learning curve and you'll get better and better the more you model.

[Marklo]

Doesn’t look that bad to me. I’m only just getting started on airbrushing and up to now I’ve generally done my aircraft in factory finish. But I can still add my 2 cents

 

First off find a good reference photo or photos. The real thing will be oily, dirty and scuffed. 
 

Second off read up on techniques. I subscribe to Airfix model world and every issue has at least one aircraft build with weathering etc.

 

third off books. I’ve read airbrushing scale model aircraft and airbrushing and finishing scale models and both seem to be good guides.

 

Lastly, remember to have fun with it, it is a hobby after all

Edited September 27, 2019 by Marklo

[Smithy]

12 minutes ago, Marklo said:

Lastly, remember to have fun with it, it is a hobby after all

 

That's the very best advice of all.

[fightersweep]

Always nice to see the venerable old Airfix "big" Spit built up. I have a few on the go myself. I'll just echo what's already been said, but do give the model a shine before adding the decals.....I use Klear or Future for this, then matt cote if necessary. Having said that, I've seen enough photos of Battle of Britain era Spitfires that have a slight sheen anyway. As for weathering, I'm a less is more kind of person. I've often seen this kit built with the life weathered out of it. Most Spits of this era that I have seen were not that heavily weathered, and the ground crews were fiercely proud of their charges, and some pilots and ground crew waxed the aircraft as it gave a few extra MPH. If you know what markings you want to use, or specific airframe, then have a google around for some references. Have to agree on the brown. Not sure if it's the lighting, but on my monitor, it almost looks like PRU pink. If you get the chance to use a darker RAF Dark Earth, then that would help a great deal....if not, no worries.

 

The best advice has already been given.....have fun and enjoy the hobby!

 

Steve

[Andy350]

Thanks for the great advice, I will have a look at some photos, I agree, the ones I have seen look in pretty good order.  I was using the advice from the owner of a model shop, basically said, before you apply the decals don't use anything, just apply the Humbro Decalfix.  The same chap advised on the paint colour, it was XF-52 flat earth.  Not gone that well.  Like you've said I should have applied the gloss before the decals.  I think I will put this one down to experience!

 

Edited September 27, 2019 by Andy350

[Andy350]

2 hours ago, Smithy said:

Could be the lighting but the brown colour (Dark Earth) doesn't look right to my eyes, too light and the shade seems funny. If it was me I'd repaint that first. Afterwards one of the most important things before decalling is to have a gloss coat so the decals can sit nicely without "silvering" (where the decal carrier film can be visible tending to give very noticeable whitish marks). Weathering is usually done after putting the decals and applying the final sealant coat, in this case a matt finish. Different people have different weathering techniques but I use a panel line wash and then pastel powders to mimic wear and tear, grime, exhaust and gun staining, etc.

 

Your best bet is to read as much as you can about scale modelling techniques and then have a go. This is your first build back in the hobby and like anything there's a learning curve and you'll get better and better the more you model.

I've used Tamiya flat earth, a bit annoyed if that is wrong as this is what the shop owner advised on.  I've applied the first two decals now so cannot really paint, I could apply some glos before applying the rest.  

[Marklo]

The Decals are not lost. You can still use a pin/cocktail stick and some decal softener to make them confirm, followed by a coat of varnish to keep them stuck.

 

The more I look at it the more  the flat earth looks a bit light and a bit pink. I tend to use Humbrol 29 for my dark earth. But mainly because this is the colour that comes with most Airfix kits

Edited September 27, 2019 by Marklo

[Andy350]

3 minutes ago, Marklo said:

The Decals are not lost. You can still use a pin/cocktail stick and some decal softener to make them confirm, followed by a coat of varnish to keep them stuck.

 

The more I look at it the more  the flat earth looks a bit light and a bit pink. I tend to use Humbrol 29 for my dark earth. But mainly because this is the colour that comes with most Airfix kits

Ok thanks.  Can I apply anything to the paint to help with the decals?  I do have some semi-gloss clear Tamiya, could I use that before I apply the other decals.  And should decalfix remove paint? 

[Marklo]

Hmm anything I’ve read recommends a gloss coat before decals. there are many many options but future or Klear floor polish seems pretty popular, you can also use this to improve clear mouldings. 

 

Personally I don’t do this myself. But as I mainly model WWI and interwar types at the moment I don’t have a lot of panel lines or rivets to contend with. I use revel decal softener and Microsol occasionally and haven’t had any issues with paint damage.

[Andy350]

10 minutes ago, Marklo said:

Hmm anything I’ve read recommends a gloss coat before decals. there are many many options but future or Klear floor polish seems pretty popular, you can also use this to improve clear mouldings. 

 

Personally I don’t do this myself. But as I mainly model WWI and interwar types at the moment I don’t have a lot of panel lines or rivets to contend with. I use revel decal softener and Microsol occasionally and haven’t had any issues with paint damage.

Thanks for the advice again.

[fightersweep]

Can't praise the Future/Klear option enough. I use it on everthing and have found some extra, really useful applications as well for the stuff. For example, I was testing brush painting yellow enamel on an old mule of a kit (Oh the horror...brush painting yellow!) Usually I find that even if the first coat has dried over night, subsequent coats seem to pull and drag giving a horrible, uneven finish. Therefore it takes many coats to get a nice, opaque finish. Now, I cover each coat with Klear, and get an even, opaque coat in as little with two coats with the right paint. Also great for getting a sheen to fix your decals, and sealing them. Brushes and airbrushes with no problems, and you can control the level of shine from a matt base coat by how many coats you apply. I'm just repeating known stuff here, but a bottle of Klear/Future is a worthy investment.

Steve

Edited September 27, 2019 by fightersweep

[PLC1966]

8 minutes ago, fightersweep said:

Can't praise the Future/Klear option enough. I use it on everthing and have found some extra, really useful applications as well for the stuff. For example, I was testing brush painting yellow enamel on an old mule of a kit (Oh the horror...brush painting yellow!) Usually I find that even if the first coat has dried over night, subsequent coats seem to pull and drag giving a horrible, uneven finish. Therefore it takes many coats to get a nice, opaque finish. Now, I cover each coat with Klear, and get an even, opaque coat in as little with two coats with the right paint.

Steve

Oh, I do like that info.  Good work Steve.

[fightersweep]

1 minute ago, PLC1966 said:

Oh, I do like that info.  Good work Steve.

It's worth trying out. I tested it several times so far and works very nicely. I was experimenting as I have a few 1/72 Harvard builds coming up that require yellow undersides and the yellow scares me!! 

 

As an extra though (and this is for the brush painters out there) I also tried it with Humbrol 11 Silver and Metal Cote. I often find that silver brushes on fine to a smooth surface, but problems arrise with the second coat, which often drags, even if thinned. Seems to me it's because silver seems to dry quite quickly and this causes me to get horrible, streaky results. So I tried the same thing with silver. Coat of Klear after the first coat and the second coat of silver went on perfectly. I've just finished a Texan (I'll post photos on RFI soon) and I would have struggled to get a better finish with an airbrush. I'm inpressed!

 

Apologies if going off topic!

 

Steve

[Andy350]

3 hours ago, fightersweep said:

Can't praise the Future/Klear option enough. I use it on everthing and have found some extra, really useful applications as well for the stuff. For example, I was testing brush painting yellow enamel on an old mule of a kit (Oh the horror...brush painting yellow!) Usually I find that even if the first coat has dried over night, subsequent coats seem to pull and drag giving a horrible, uneven finish. Therefore it takes many coats to get a nice, opaque finish. Now, I cover each coat with Klear, and get an even, opaque coat in as little with two coats with the right paint. Also great for getting a sheen to fix your decals, and sealing them. Brushes and airbrushes with no problems, and you can control the level of shine from a matt base coat by how many coats you apply. I'm just repeating known stuff here, but a bottle of Klear/Future is a worthy investment.

Steve

So this is floor polish, I will have to find this.

Edited September 27, 2019 by Andy350

[fubar57]

Be careful with the Future/Klear as the formula changed. Someone here will know a lot more about the change and what to look for when purchasing the newer version

[Antb]

23 hours ago, Andy350 said:

Thanks for the great advice, I will have a look at some photos, I agree, the ones I have seen look in pretty good order.  I was using the advice from the owner of a model shop, basically said, before you apply the decals don't use anything, just apply the Humbro Decalfix.  The same chap advised on the paint colour, it was XF-52 flat earth.  Not gone that well.  Like you've said I should have applied the gloss before the decals.  I think I will put this one down to experience!

 

Hi Andy 

 

Can I ask, did you give the flat earth a good old stir before you painted with it? Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs but if you didn't the full pigment won't have mixed through and maybe why you ended up with the lighter colour. 

 

I've used flat earth before and it is a pretty good match. 

 

're the decal photo you've posted  this is normal when using decal fix etc. It's designed to shrink and pull the decal down and will always happen irrespective of a gloss coat or not. Take a cotton bud and run it across the decal and that will help eliminate the air bubbles or creases etc. 

 

As for a gloss coat, I personally don't use one and don't have issues with shivering really. The gloss coat just helps to smooth the surface and to elimante trapped air etc, you can happily place decals on a Matt or satin finish. Not everyone will agree though but it can be done. 

 

I think for a first build back it's a great job. Don't be hard on yourself. There are people who are really serious about colours and details etc but as has been said already, it's your hobby do what makes you happy and have fun whilst doing it. 

 

At the end of the day if you get serious about things and don't enjoy it, Well, what's the point? 

[Andy350]

2 hours ago, Antb said:

Hi Andy 

 

Can I ask, did you give the flat earth a good old stir before you painted with it? Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs but if you didn't the full pigment won't have mixed through and maybe why you ended up with the lighter colour. 

 

I've used flat earth before and it is a pretty good match. 

 

're the decal photo you've posted  this is normal when using decal fix etc. It's designed to shrink and pull the decal down and will always happen irrespective of a gloss coat or not. Take a cotton bud and run it across the decal and that will help eliminate the air bubbles or creases etc. 

 

As for a gloss coat, I personally don't use one and don't have issues with shivering really. The gloss coat just helps to smooth the surface and to elimante trapped air etc, you can happily place decals on a Matt or satin finish. Not everyone will agree though but it can be done. 

 

I think for a first build back it's a great job. Don't be hard on yourself. There are people who are really serious about colours and details etc but as has been said already, it's your hobby do what makes you happy and have fun whilst doing it. 

 

At the end of the day if you get serious about things and don't enjoy it, Well, what's the point? 

It's ok, I need all the pointers I can get!  No, I didn't stir before, I just shook the paint before using.  

 

I am at this point now, not really sure how to more it on, or just leave as it is now.  Looks a bit too clean, and a little shiny.  I would like a matt finish next time I do something similar.  Ignore the props, I've got to sort that out, they were broken over 30 years ago.

 

Edited September 28, 2019 by Andy350

[Antb]

Looks great, I’d add a wash to add some weathering. I use flory models dark dirt wash as it’s really easy to use. Have a look here:

 

 

 

Literally, slap it on, let it dry and rub it off. There are other options available but to start with it’s great. 

 

Re your paint, shake it and then grab a cocktail stick and mix the jeepers out of it, get the pigment broken down and back 8nto the paint. It will make a big difference overall. 

 

Good job job so far though, it’s all about learning 😀

[Andy350]

21 minutes ago, Antb said:

Looks great, I’d add a wash to add some weathering. I use flory models dark dirt wash as it’s really easy to use. Have a look here:

 

 

 

Literally, slap it on, let it dry and rub it off. There are other options available but to start with it’s great. 

 

Re your paint, shake it and then grab a cocktail stick and mix the jeepers out of it, get the pigment broken down and back 8nto the paint. It will make a big difference overall. 

 

Good job job so far though, it’s all about learning 😀

Thank you, I will follow your advice and then post up a finished photo.  Many thanks

Andy

[Troy Smith]

On 26/09/2019 at 16:45, Andy350 said:

So, I'm looking at ways to make this look neater, more realistic and weathered.  I really need some pointers please,

work from photos.

there are not that many colour shots, but these really help, note the slight sheen to the paint

Spitfire in England by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire in England. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire II. 1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

the colours on these look about right as well.

 

this is faded and tatty, but note not much chipping.

 

Spitfire II        April 1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

this shows typical oil stains, as Merlins leaked a lot

Spitfire Mk.Vc by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

all from here

https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=8270787@N07&q=spitfire

 

There are many techniques for weathering and stains,   and many threads.

I describe and illustrate the use of oil washes and pastel chalks for finishing here

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki-oob/

 

Which maybe of use, 

At where you are I'dd added Kleer (basically gloss acrylic varnish),  the oil paint wash, using lighter fuel as solvent,  and dark grey brown, not black,  sealed with matt varnish, and some weathering with pastel chalk and oil stains with neat oil paint, but again thinned with lighter fuel. 

 

I hope the build pics and reference photos will explain better.  

 

Any questions or clarifications ? 

 

HTH

[Andy350]

25 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

work from photos.

there are not that many colour shots, but these really help, note the slight sheen to the paint

Spitfire in England by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire in England. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire II. 1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

the colours on these look about right as well.

 

this is faded and tatty, but note not much chipping.

 

Spitfire II        April 1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

this shows typical oil stains, as Merlins leaked a lot

Spitfire Mk.Vc by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

all from here

https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=8270787@N07&q=spitfire

 

There are many techniques for weathering and stains,   and many threads.

I describe and illustrate the use of oil washes and pastel chalks for finishing here

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki-oob/

 

Which maybe of use, 

At where you are I'dd added Kleer (basically gloss acrylic varnish),  the oil paint wash, using lighter fuel as solvent,  and dark grey brown, not black,  sealed with matt varnish, and some weathering with pastel chalk and oil stains with neat oil paint, but again thinned with lighter fuel. 

 

I hope the build pics and reference photos will explain better.  

 

Any questions or clarifications ? 

 

HTH

Thanks for taking the time in putting this together.  I'm going to go with "Flory Models Dark Dirt weathering wash" for now and see where that gets me.  But will look at your other suggestions at some point.

[Andy350]

I've somehow lost a gun maintenance panel! Not sure how to sort this out.  I should have glued them in. 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2019 by Andy350

[Smithy]

22 minutes ago, Andy350 said:

I've somehow lost a gun maintenance panel! Not sure how to sort this out.

 

Should be fairly easy to make a replacement with sheet styrene which you can buy from your local hobby shop.

 

Coming along nicely!