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Revell Fine Molds 1:144 Millennium Falcon


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I now have three projects running, 2 of which are nearly completed, but I like to have a few things I can work on to prevent getting 'bored'. I couldn't find the Bandai Falcon here in the Netherlands, so I went for the Revell one. I was a bit disappointed by the quality compared to the Bandai ones. Lot's of flash and clean-up to do and not all parts seem to fit that perfectly. It's also massively expensive at €130,- and that price is not justified if you ask me.

 

Since I also see everyone being crafty with scratchbuilding and adding detail, I thought i'd get to it as well. I only have one sheet of styrene and it's a bit too thick and 2 diameters of brass tubing; but it's a start. I did have some issues cutting the brass neatly though since it's so small. Any tips on how to go about that?

 

Also; what glue is best for gluing plastic card? I got superglue, Revell glue and Mr. Hobby glue with a brush, but it's the quick drying version which didn't seem to work well for these small pieces. Revell makes a mess (or I do) and superglue got no room for error.

 

48787606531_fbc81ade92_k.jpg20190923_185203 by Nick N, on Flickr

The box.

 

48787243913_8e55efb167_k.jpg20190923_185314 by Nick N, on Flickr

Contents. Not many sprues.

 

48787602571_46755438a4_k.jpg20190923_185454 by Nick N, on Flickr

Lots of clean-up to do.

 

48787601566_662852ee61_k.jpg20190923_185508 by Nick N, on Flickr

More flash.

 

48787239823_383f2cd20d_k.jpg20190923_185753 by Nick N, on Flickr

Really bare cockpit.

 

48787598411_6544089902_k.jpg20190923_201838 by Nick N, on Flickr

After adding some styrene from Evergeen. Looks messy in the pictures but less in real life. Still need some practice with things like this. Also, details might not be completely true to real life, but at least it's not that bare. Also added some brass tubing.

 

48787596111_d21d4c0297_k.jpg20190923_203922 by Nick N, on Flickr

Some more stuff added. Need to get myself some thinner styrene sheets so that they are easier to cut. The thickness of the sheet is the width of rectangles on there.

 

48787593476_8252543e9e_k.jpg20190923_212424 by Nick N, on Flickr

Added some details to the dish. I didn't have any copper wire so I heated a sprue and used that to make the 'pipes'.

 

48787592246_78c881b57d_k.jpg20190923_220829 by Nick N, on Flickr

Used copper tubing to replace the barrels. I also don't have any small drills so attaching them wasn't fun. I really need to get some more stuff.

 

That's it for now...

 

 

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Added some wiring to the landing gear. A lot of details seem to be missing with the Revell, but it's a good warm-up for something bigger.

 

48793886607_fb972d78b7_k.jpg20190924_201701 by Nick N, on Flickr

 

48793743131_2ff3cef37f_k.jpg20190924_201711 by Nick N, on Flickr

Looks a lot better with some stuff added.

 

48793376818_ab7fd27e83_k.jpg20190924_213706 by Nick N, on Flickr

 

48793872217_0666ac7e8d_k.jpg20190924_233007 by Nick N, on Flickr

Cockpit painted. Black primer, some primary colors, brown wash and then some highlights added before giving it a coat of matte.

 

48793727536_7d4b077be4_k.jpg20190925_002124 by Nick N, on Flickr

Black primer added.

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And some more progress.

 

48798962757_14e844e139_k.jpg20190925_193813 by Nick N, on Flickr

Applied the preshading over the black base. I airbrushed every panel individually and tried to go lighter from top to bottom on each panel. I also added some streaks. This is still the grey base.

 

48798461588_40c9a79758_k.jpg20190925_193839 by Nick N, on Flickr

48798451043_f7e9f4b0c9_k.jpg20190925_200708 by Nick N, on Flickr

Added a misting of a yellowish grey. The real yellow will come after I apply a wash.

 

48798449123_d55b91117f_k.jpg20190925_212113 by Nick N, on Flickr

To paint the darker grey and red patches, I used Vallejo liquid mask and then sponged on some chipping fluid for the chips (got that from Andy).

 

48798797231_6132172dc5_k.jpg20190925_220449 by Nick N, on Flickr

I will adress some of the chips to make them smaller.

 

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Looking really good - the paint job really elevates the kit and scale - I would be really pleased with that! I'm sure you've worked out by now that you can use any poly cement to glue plasticard - so your revell glue or mr hobby glue will work fine. Getting some plasicard with different thicknesses is a really good idea - it's easy to work with and has endless uses as I see you've discovered :) All of your modifications look great. Really adds depth the kit. 

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13 hours ago, Andrés S. said:

Hi Nick.

 

WOW, It looks really good.
I would like you to explain the painting process in some detail. Any reference of the base color or how you made the dirt?

I think it's great.

 

 Andrés.

I first did the pre-shading, then added a misting of yellow/grey before adding some black with the airbrush near the edges where it's supposed to be darker. Afterwards I gloss coated it and gave it a thinned down yellow Vallejo wash (desert yellow or something I think it was). Then, I added all the streaks and black with black oil paints. I also added a very light blue wash to some of the panels to give it some variation.

 

48803426997_6310453992_h.jpgbdbdbdbd by Nick N, on Flickr

 

13 hours ago, Kitchen Modeller said:

Looking really good - the paint job really elevates the kit and scale - I would be really pleased with that! I'm sure you've worked out by now that you can use any poly cement to glue plasticard - so your revell glue or mr hobby glue will work fine. Getting some plasicard with different thicknesses is a really good idea - it's easy to work with and has endless uses as I see you've discovered :) All of your modifications look great. Really adds depth the kit. 

Yes, although the Revell glue is a bit messy to work with. I think I will search for some packs with plastic card, tubes etc. in it so I got some more variation to work with.

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I do still have the problem that, after applying a clear coat to the model, the oil wash is really difficult to clean up. I do use a normal terpentine and not white spirit. The surface also still gets really rough which I think is one of the issues that causes the oil pin wash to clean up badly. Any suggestions for that?

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18 minutes ago, Nick Naethuijs said:

I do still have the problem that, after applying a clear coat to the model, the oil wash is really difficult to clean up. I do use a normal terpentine and not white spirit. The surface also still gets really rough which I think is one of the issues that causes the oil pin wash to clean up badly. Any suggestions for that?

If you use the Vallejo Clear Varnish, then I can say that I have the same problems with it. They don´t withstand these elements (thinners, terpentine, spirits) very well. I also heard otherwise but it is the same for me. I love Vallejo colours. I also like the structure of the varnishes, but only as last layer.

At the moment I use the Microscale varnishes which withstand these elements much better, but they are still not perfect. Other varnishes I tried created a foggy surface so I am almost out of choices.

 

Otherwise, great work.

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8 hours ago, Nick Naethuijs said:

I do still have the problem that, after applying a clear coat to the model, the oil wash is really difficult to clean up. I do use a normal terpentine and not white spirit. The surface also still gets really rough which I think is one of the issues that causes the oil pin wash to clean up badly. Any suggestions for that?

I use 3 bright varnishes: Tamiya, Gunze and Vallejo.
In that order of preference and availability. With them I have never had any problem that oil thinners affected him.
My favorite of oil thinners was always that of Humbrol but for some time that for some reason (maybe they changed the composition slightly) I stopped using it because it affected the varnishes and acrylic colors. Thereafter I use either White Spirit or the AMMO MIG enamel thinner. Both work perfectly.

 

Andrés.

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  • 1 month later...
On 24/09/2019 at 13:54, Nick Naethuijs said:

Also; what glue is best for gluing plastic card? I got superglue, Revell glue and Mr. Hobby glue with a brush, but it's the quick drying version which didn't seem to work well for these small pieces. Revell makes a mess (or I do) and superglue got no room for error.

I've recently discovered Tamiya Extra Thin and have now pretty much switched away from using the Revell Contacta, it flows amazingly - will wick up via capillary action between joins and dries quickly, so just hold the pieces together and touch the glue on the edge, great for attaching small parts / plasticard.

 

Great work on the Falcon too!

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The kits looking fantastic. 

 

For you card needs I buy this stuff at £7.

Plasticard, Five Assorted Matt White Styrene Sheets, One Each Of 0.25mm, 0.5mm, 0.75mm, 1mm & 1.5mm. All Sheets Are 220mm x 325mm. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TWOHJE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_URRVDbSQEBR89

 

And for the glue I really like Tamiya extra thin and for gloss I have never had a problem with Alclad gloss ( the normal one) with a hairy stick or airbrush and I use it over all sort of stuff. 

Edited by rockpopandchips
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