Serkan Sen Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) Just to change the subject a bit I have worked on my "Fullanker" (Front fuselage Su-34 "Fullback", the rest Su-33 "Flanker") what-if project during last few days; It is now very close to RFI too. You can find full build report here . On Friday I will apply panel wash to Oxcart. Serkan Edited March 19, 2020 by Serkan Sen 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billn53 Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Nice splinter pattern! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billn53 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 While we’re waiting for Serkan to finish the Oxcart, here’s an interesting article for you: https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/32722/cias-predecessor-to-the-sr-71-blackbird-tested-electron-guns-to-hide-from-radars - Bill 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 54 minutes ago, billn53 said: While we’re waiting for Serkan to finish the Oxcart, here’s an interesting article for you: https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/32722/cias-predecessor-to-the-sr-71-blackbird-tested-electron-guns-to-hide-from-radars - Bill Very long but interesting article. Thanks Bill... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billn53 Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 10 hours ago, Serkan Sen said: Very long but interesting article. Thanks Bill... Very much like your Blackbird project, Serkan 😄 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 On 3/13/2020 at 11:27 PM, Serkan Sen said: The model was coated with Future/Pledge again to seal the decals. It will cure for next seven days before oil paint panel wash (I had a bad experience during Flankerstein build, because I didn't have enough patience to wait for completely cured gloss coat). Since three months this build and her sister M-21 were waiting for panel wash. Although I have shown enough patience to let Future/Pledge to cure I had again bad experience with oil/turpentine panel wash. Therefore I was looking for a nondestructive panel wash method. I ended up with watercolor paint wash. It can be completely cleaned with water anytime. But still it leaves somehow dull effect on areas where watercolors applied. Somehow I could not get any good result using Future/Pledge as gloss coat. Maybe I am missing some important points but I won't use it in anymore. I will go back to Model Master gloss coat. I may give try to alclad dull and gloss coats later. Serkan 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorenSharp Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 7 minutes ago, Serkan Sen said: Since three months this build and her sister M-21 were waiting for panel wash. Although I have shown enough patience to let Future/Pledge to cure I had again bad experience with oil/turpentine panel wash. Therefore I was looking for a nondestructive panel wash method. I ended up with watercolor paint wash. It can be completely cleaned with water anytime. But still it leaves somehow dull effect on areas where watercolors applied. Somehow I could not get any good result using Future/Pledge as gloss coat. Maybe I am missing some important points but I won't use it in anymore. I will go back to Model Master gloss coat. I may give try to alclad dull and gloss coats later. Serkan are you brushing on the Future or using an airbrush? I've had better luck with the hairy stick. An airbrush if the pressure is above 10-15lbs makes the clearcoat dry too fast before it has a chance to level out and dry glossy. What I've discovered that works better for me , especially with the regular Alclad paints ,is hi gloss clear lacquer out of the shaker can. A light coat drys almost instantly and from there you can gauge how much more glossy you want the surface. For a wash I've also started using Cheap Acrylic paint for painting pictures thinned down 10-1 or more with I{A. I paint it on with a fine brush the IPA dries quickly the I take an IPA moistened cotton bud to wipe off the excess. the bud just has to be slightly wet, not sopping. If you get too much wick off the excess on a paper towel. What I came to dislike about Future is if it goes on too thick it will run. the wash so far for me has been the cheapest and most consistent to work right. I've tried Artist oils, Black ink, regular black acrylic paints as well. I haven't had the chance to try the new weathering sets from AK they may work better. BUt then your mileage may vary with my system as well.😏 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 (edited) On 6/17/2020 at 6:33 PM, LorenSharp said: are you brushing on the Future or using an airbrush? Thanks for your detailed reply Loren. I use airbrush to apply Future/Pledge coat with a pressure setting 15psi. Following the advices on web and YouTube I have tried it with/without thinning with IPA and applied first couple of mist coats and then following relatively heavier/thicker ones. It is not leveling well however. It dries relatively quickly and prone to flow quickly when applied a bit much. In my Flankerstein build I have used oil paint diluted with odorless Turpentine. But at some areas it ate the paint during wipe off although I lightly moistened the cotton bud. As suggested one of our fellows I have used zippo lighter fluid to wipe off excessive washes but it was even worser. Recently I used watercolor 1:1 mixed with water and added a drop of dish soap to break surface tension. The result was good enough and the complete wash can be removed with tap water in seconds. I will give a chance to gouache paint this week and close this panel wash topic on my side. Serkan Edited May 1, 2021 by Serkan Sen 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorenSharp Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 I've had the same problem with the oil paInt/ turpentine route uneven drying.Future usually doesn't require thinning out of the bottle. Now if you wanted to have different s"shades of glossiness to flat, then I would try an ammonia based window cleaner. MY biggest headache though was applying too much and getting runs all over the place. Any more I just used Future for dipping canopies and turrets, lets the part drain for a few seconds or wick off excess on a paper towel. I do know that the high shine alclads don't like any clearcoat or masking whatsoever. The end result is like a bad paint job using a 30 year old bottle of pactra silver if it sticks.The formulation , age or humidity at the time of spraying may also play a part too. I've had those give me fits as well. widsh I could give you better advice. P.S. just thought of something to try on a scrap piece, if you are using regular rubbing alcohol, try denatured Alcohol. Not sure what it would be called there. sometimes used in camping burners. it's purer 99% with just a trace of a mineral additive so people won't try to drink it. With the Covid-19 I haven't see regular rubbing alcohol on the shelves, that why I tried and was successful with the denatured alcohol for my resin prints. and its cheaper to boot! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bell209 Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 I use Future for all my clear coats but add Tamiya X-21 in varying amounts to adjust the sheen. The glossier I want it, the less I use. Straight Future with a drop of Windex for gloss coats before decalling. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil5208 Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Excellent work, has it been completed 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, neil5208 said: Excellent work, has it been completed Not yet, what is missing is the panel line wash and I was not sure how to proceed. Instead oil colors wash I was looking for non aggressive method. I did a water (aqua) color wash (not acrylic but similar to gouache) with a great result in my Su-27KIB build: Recently I have also bought several colors of Valejo washes but haven't tried yet. But I made significant progress in my 3D model. I have already printed the complete engine from spike to nozzle to test my 3D resin printer. Most probably I will be able to print front and mid fuselage of A-12, A-12B and M-21 before Sylvester. Serkan Edited December 22, 2020 by Serkan Sen 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlogger Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Harika! I loved wash of panel lines. I expect you gonna weather it a bit ha? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 (edited) After a very long break here are some further progress on this project: Using aqua colors the panel wash was done. First I did a test on lower surface: the wash Once I saw that the paint works well I did the panel wash on entire aircraft: Using a lightly moistened paper towel all the excessive washes were wiped off and a dull coat was applied to seal panel wash: Next step is to finish landing gear assemblies and make the aircraft ready for roll out... Serkan Edited September 2, 2021 by Serkan Sen 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billn53 Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 That looks very, very nice! But (a matter of taste), perhaps too pristine? 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 8 minutes ago, billn53 said: That looks very, very nice! But (a matter of taste), perhaps too pristine? Yes but I have built this one: Maybe your Blackbird crew were not taking enough care their bird... Serkan 3 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 The tyres were painted to mixed white/gray/aluminum color. The nose wheels were painted to white whereas the main wheels were painted to red. The nose and main struts were painted to titanium and chrome-silver: Next step is to assemble all NLG and MLG parts/doors and do final touches on this build before "Ready For Inspection"... Serkan 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billn53 Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 I'm glad to see your Blackbirds finally approaching the finish line. I bet you are, too! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 On 9/3/2021 at 5:31 PM, billn53 said: I'm glad to see your Blackbirds finally approaching the finish line. I bet you are, too! Yes I am. The next one will be the 3D printed A-12B "Titanium Goose"... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) ´The landing gear assemblies and doors were placed: The pitot tube was taken from 3D printed Oxcart nose: Now the project is very close to RFI: The only missing part is the ejection seat but it should not take long time to paint and place it into cockpit tub unless I suddenly decide to print it: Serkan Edited September 6, 2021 by Serkan Sen 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 Nicely done sir. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 Last weekend I have preordered the new 1:48 scale Revell SR-71 kit. Surprisingly today I have received an email that my order will be dispatched shortly. I am impatiently waiting for the day I will receive this model Serkan 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkH Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Might be appropriate, but I notice there is a Black Robin Resinz set on ebay for this conversion https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174926428014?hash=item28ba6d776e:g:cuAAAOSw6o1hNjZ4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serkan Sen Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, MarkH said: Might be appropriate, but I notice there is a Black Robin Resinz set on ebay for this conversion https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174926428014?hash=item28ba6d776e:g:cuAAAOSw6o1hNjZ4 I don't have any aftermarket resin set in hand therefore I don't know if this set is good enough to build an accurate Oxcart. Although I did my own resin conversion set I noticed that the quality is far behind of 3D printed one: If you have not seen yet, you can have a look to my another ongoing Oxcart project here: Serkan Edited September 7, 2021 by Serkan Sen 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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