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Legendary Blackbird - Part 1: A-12 Oxcart (Italeri Conversion)


Serkan Sen

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54 minutes ago, billn53 said:

Good job creating the raised panel lines. That’s something I’ve never tried before. I presume success depends the type of putty used (water-based acrylic, solvent-based “Bondo”, etc.). What did you use?

 

- Bill

Thanks Bill,

I have used standard "Revell Plasto" putty in blue tube which is very brittle. To get nicer raised panels with finer width I think a better adhesive and thinner filer is needed (maybe liquid filler like Mr. Surfacer 500?) which should not penetrate below the masking film.

Serkan

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1 hour ago, Serkan Sen said:

Thanks Bill,

I have used standard "Revell Plasto" putty in blue tube which is very brittle. To get nicer raised panels with finer width I think a better adhesive and thinner filer is needed (maybe liquid filler like Mr. Surfacer 500?) which should not penetrate below the masking film.

Serkan

If I recall correctly, I have seen an example of creating panel lines much like you did, but instead of spreading putty they sprayed Mr. Surfacer over the taped surface.

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The casting boxes were created using Lego bricks and they were fixed with modeling clay.

1336.jpg

1337.jpg

1338.jpg

 

The tail cone molds will be single piece whereas the nose parts will have two pieces molds.

1339.jpg

 

The dark green silicone is much softer and has higher elasticity than the light green. Therefore it is suitable to make single piece molds.

The light green silicon has also good elasticity but stiff enough to keep separate mold parts together using alignment pins. Therefore I use it very often making multiple pieces molds.

 

Serkan

Edited by Serkan Sen
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13 hours ago, Serkan Sen said:

The dark green silicone is much softer and has higher elasticity than the light green. Therefore it is suitable to make single piece molds.

The light green silicon has also good elasticity but stiff enough to keep separate mold parts together using alignment pins. Therefore I use it very often making multiple pieces molds.

Even your casting work with a lego bricks and silicone looks so aesthetic. 👍 I like to see your progress here, Serkan! Keep up the good work.

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7 hours ago, Nikolay Polyakov said:

Even your casting work with a lego bricks and silicone looks so aesthetic. 👍 I like to see your progress here, Serkan! Keep up the good work.

Serkan's Lego bricks and silicone remind me of a Mondrian painting and look better than most of my models!

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9 hours ago, Nikolay Polyakov said:
23 hours ago, Serkan Sen said:

 

Even your casting work with a lego bricks and silicone looks so aesthetic. 👍 I like to see your progress here, Serkan! Keep up the good work.

Thanks Nikolay. Yesterday I have already casted the parts but not checked the results yet.

Serkan

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2 hours ago, Space Ranger said:

Serkan's Lego bricks and silicone remind me of a Mondrian painting and look better than most of my models!

What we are all doing is also kind of art strongly supported with engineering 👨‍🎨👷‍♂️😁

Serkan

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First the tail cone parts were casted to test molds:

1357.jpg

 

The molds are fine but the it seems that the shelf life of resin was over 😞

1358.jpg

 

As clearly seen from above image, the casted part starts to bleed/sweat oily liquid when the part is trimmed. I had this badly/costly experienced during my Flanker T-10M family and Flankerstein modifications:

 

 

I have recycled the old resin and casted the parts with new one and now everything is fine:

1359.jpg

 

Next is to duplicate nose parts.

 

Serkan

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Few copies of Revell/Monogram nose wheel bay were duplicated. The Italeri wheel bay is shorter but wider than Revell/Monogram. Therefore two duplicates were used to produce Italeri wheel bay. The side walls were taken from one copy whereas the details and upper wall is from the other one:

1361.jpg

 

The resulting wheel bay was shown in the lower right image (the casted part next to black one).

 

Next is to duplicate new wheel bay for other planned Blackbird projects and start to put all parts together.

 

Serkan

Edited by Serkan Sen
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1 hour ago, Nikolay Polyakov said:

Excellent progress so far, Serkan! Thank you for sharing these techniques with us. 👏

Thanks lot Nikolay,

I couldn't have made progress up to this level without all of yours support... 🙏

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Hi Serkan, may be a silly question but in your first picture from Monday's posting can you explain how you did this. Did you keep injecting the resin from the bottom until it was filled to the top ?

 

Regards

Robert

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On 1/16/2020 at 11:52 PM, Robert said:

Hi Serkan, may be a silly question but in your first picture from Monday's posting can you explain how you did this. Did you keep injecting the resin from the bottom until it was filled to the top ?

 

Regards

Robert

Hi Robert,

This is in fact very good question. My early molds had no such injection hole and I was trying to cast the parts with gravity fill method (up to bottom). But most of the time this was causing trapped air between the mold and poured resin due to very thin part thickness and relatively long part length. Therefore I prefer injection molding with bottom to up method as it lets the air escaping easily without trapping inside the mold. Of course the mold has to be designed not to cause any air trapping...

 

Serkan

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Hi Serkan, thanks for the explanation. First time l have heard of this way of forming parts and it works well. I have now learnt of other ways of casting my own parts.

 

Regards

Robert

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The nose wheel main strut cross beam was built from plastic card which was missing in Italeri/Testors kit. Also the mold forms for both nose wheel bay and cross beam parts were done:

1362.jpg

 

The casted new nose wheel bay was glued to lower front fuselage half:

1364.jpg

1365.jpg

 

Next step is to finish tail cone lower half...

 

Serkan

Edited by Serkan Sen
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