Short Sunderland Mk III - Italeri 1/72

[Ex-FAAWAFU]

Knocking that off was 100% inevitable at some point.  Glad you found it, though.  

[Heather Kay]

18 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Knocking that off was 100% inevitable at some point. 

True enough. It’s why I tend to add brass wire pins to such fittings for that belt, braces and bit of knotted string security.

[giemme]

Glad you were able to recover the knocked off bit, Ced   @Heather Kay has a good point about such stuff.

 

Ciao

 

Edit: fixed after @keefr22allusion to me being fond of beer - for no apparent reason...

Edit: fixing after mentioning the wrong person.... it was in fact @Ex-FAAWAFU

 

 

Edited December 18, 2019 by giemme

[keefr22]

1 hour ago, CedB said:

Then I went to the loo, again.

 

 

I've heard it said you should always check your socks for dropped bits, but your underpants is a new one to me!!

 

Keith

[TheBaron]

Good luck on the masking Ced. 👏

[CedB]

2 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Just shows Ced, the value of regularity of bodily function movements! 🤣🤣

 Thanks Terry!

 

2 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Knocking that off was 100% inevitable at some point.  Glad you found it, though.  

2 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

True enough. It’s why I tend to add brass wire pins to such fittings for that belt, braces and bit of knotted string security.

1 hour ago, giemme said:

Glad you were able to recover the knocked off bit, Ced   @Heather Kay has a good pint about such stuff.

 

Ciao

Thanks all - pretty inevitable, especially as there were no locating marks/holes!

As Heather says some wire would have been a good idea but the plastic is so thin at the bottom I would probably have drilled through the sides  

Should have made a brass one…

 

1 hour ago, keefr22 said:

 

I've heard it said you should always check your socks for dropped bits, but your underpants is a new one to me!!

 

Keith

Nooooooo! It was stuck to my overgarments, honest!  

 

51 minutes ago, TheBaron said:

Good luck on the masking Ced. 👏

Thanks Tony  Glad you're here actually as I could do with some help. What settings did you use when you cut your serials in Oramask? I was on Blade 2, Force 15, Pass 1 and Speed 1 for the last attempt but it still gave me problems… see below!

 

 

The first cut of the masks went through the backing:

 

 

My fault - the material was set to Cardstock - idiot!

Try again with Oramask.

 

The serial looks cut but the blade lifted the masks:

 

 

… didn't cut through here:

 

 

The idents and main roundels are fine so I've stuck some transfer tape over them:

 

 

 

…but by that time I was a bit frustrated so I'll put them aside and review in the morning.

 

I did manage to glue the spinners on without incident:

 

 

Not completely useless then  

 

[AltcarBoB]

2 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

True enough. It’s why I tend to add brass wire pins to such fittings for that belt, braces and bit of knotted string security.

Belt, braces and knotted string is good for starters I prefer to go belt, braces, knotted string, scaffolding and over built like a Battleship.

[TheBaron]

59 minutes ago, CedB said:

Glad you're here actually as I could do with some help. What settings did you use when you cut your serials in Oramask

Ced: the only setting I use for Oramask is the 'Washi sheets' one. 

Counter-intuitively I find that cutting at slow speeds produces more 'lifts' with materials than faster. Not sure why - poss. something to do with the turn round corners and curves...?

[rob85]

36 minutes ago, TheBaron said:

Ced: the only setting I use for Oramask is the 'Washi sheets' one. 

Counter-intuitively I find that cutting at slow speeds produces more 'lifts' with materials than faster. Not sure why - poss. something to do with the turn round corners and curves...?

I’ve always found with cutting anything the slower the speed the more pull it creates and the more lift you get.... I’m sure there are scientific reasons, something about surface area, speed, point of contact... bit like that thing of finding blades of grass embedded in trees after strong hurricanes.

 

that said my only cutting has been with a scalpel and Washi tape, also nothing more complex than a straight line, lettering, edges of windows etc. 
 

Rob

[rob85]

Ced I missed your ‘weathering’ what a fortunate accident! It looks great, I’m with cookie more rust! Go big or go home (I’m aware your modelling this at home but I’m sure you, clever as you are, still understands the point) 

 

Rob 

[Heather Kay]

2 minutes ago, rob85 said:

I’m with cookie more rust!

But Sunderlands were mainly aluminium. That does corrode, but doesn’t rust. Can you imagine the takeoff run a steel-hulled Sundie would need? 

[hendie]

1 hour ago, CedB said:

Nooooooo! It was stuck to my overgarments, honest!  

 

Of course it was Ced.  Of course it was.  We all believe you.  Honest!

[rob85]

54 minutes ago, Heather Kay said:

But Sunderlands were mainly aluminium. That does corrode, but doesn’t rust. Can you imagine the takeoff run a steel-hulled Sundie would need? 

That’s true, but it doesn’t look very piratey if it doesn’t have rust, I mean it’s half boat half plane? Like an air pirate?.....

 

fine! More colours of corrosion befitting the the metal properties of the the hull.... but maybe just a little Jolly Roger like what the sub commanders had.... 

 

Rob

Edited December 18, 2019 by rob85

[AdrianMF]

The white weathering looks great. The white-sided ones did get pretty scabrous and I was going to point to a picture similar to RB-C above as an example. You might want to mist over some pure white to blend it together a bit more though (I see you've still got the windows masked).

 

My car is gloss white and even after a good power wash I still have lots of green greeblies round the tail hatch hinges and roof bars...

 

Regards,

Adrian

[Ex-FAAWAFU]

4 hours ago, giemme said:

...a good pint...

Truly we are turning you into a Brit, Giorgio.  Even your typos mention beer.

[giemme]

28 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Truly we are turning you into a Brit, Giorgio.  Even your typos mention beer.

Oh cr.p ....

 

Well I fixed it now, check it

 

Ciao

[keefr22]

5 hours ago, giemme said:

Edit: fixed after @keefr22 allusion to me being fond of beer - for no apparent reason...

 

Eh? What? Where??? Have you been drinking again Giorgio....??!!  

 

Keith

[giemme]

5 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

 

Eh? What? Where??? Have you been drinking again Giorgio....??!!  

 

Keith

No, it's just that I'm the genius of comedy

 

Sorry Crisp, and last time I drank was a half glass of wine last night....  

 

 Ciao

[keefr22]

7 minutes ago, giemme said:

Sorry Crisp, and last time I drank was a half glass of wine last night....  

 

 

Must have been powerful stuff....!!

 

Kerisp

[CedB]

4 hours ago, AltcarBoB said:

Belt, braces and knotted string is good for starters I prefer to go belt, braces, knotted string, scaffolding and over built like a Battleship.

Over cautious eh? But then I bet you don't knock things of!  

(Stuart is it?)

4 hours ago, TheBaron said:

Ced: the only setting I use for Oramask is the 'Washi sheets' one. 

Counter-intuitively I find that cutting at slow speeds produces more 'lifts' with materials than faster. Not sure why - poss. something to do with the turn round corners and curves...?

Thanks Tony  

Tried it and the tail flashes were better but:

 

on Flickr

 

I'm probably asking too much - some of the characters are saveable but look at the 9s:

 

 

I think I'll use the transfers for the serials  

 

3 hours ago, rob85 said:

I’ve always found with cutting anything the slower the speed the more pull it creates and the more lift you get.... I’m sure there are scientific reasons, something about surface area, speed, point of contact... bit like that thing of finding blades of grass embedded in trees after strong hurricanes.

 

that said my only cutting has been with a scalpel and Washi tape, also nothing more complex than a straight line, lettering, edges of windows etc. 
 

Rob

I think that makes sense Rob - thanks  

 

3 hours ago, rob85 said:

Ced I missed your ‘weathering’ what a fortunate accident! It looks great, I’m with cookie more rust! Go big or go home (I’m aware your modelling this at home but I’m sure you, clever as you are, still understands the point) 

 

Rob 

3 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

But Sunderlands were mainly aluminium. That does corrode, but doesn’t rust. Can you imagine the takeoff run a steel-hulled Sundie would need? 

2 hours ago, rob85 said:

That’s true, but it doesn’t look very piratey if it doesn’t have rust, I mean it’s half boat half plane? Like an air pirate?.....

 

fine! More colours of corrosion befitting the the metal properties of the the hull.... but maybe just a little Jolly Roger like what the sub commanders had.... 

 

Rob

Thanks Rob and Heather - Corroded but not rusty, got it  

"…doesn’t look very piratey" Rob. Shiver me timbers matey!  🏴‍☠️

 

2 hours ago, hendie said:

 

Of course it was Ced.  Of course it was.  We all believe you.  Honest!

It WAS! The rumour that I model in my undies is a vicious lie… dressing gown perhaps, but not undies!  

 

2 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

The white weathering looks great. The white-sided ones did get pretty scabrous and I was going to point to a picture similar to RB-C above as an example. You might want to mist over some pure white to blend it together a bit more though (I see you've still got the windows masked).

 

My car is gloss white and even after a good power wash I still have lots of green greeblies round the tail hatch hinges and roof bars...

 

Regards,

Adrian

Thanks Adrian  it's gonna get dirtier so we'll see how it goes - I may mist later.

 

Crisp, Giorgio and Keith the posts about the typo made me laugh (thanks) but Giorgio what's this about HALF a glass of wine??!!

 

 

So the masks are on except the tail flashes.

 

 

I'm hoping I grow a pair my courage overnight  

[perdu]

Ced I finally remembered to look up the RAF font I use for wartime printing, it is RAF_WW2_851ATH and should be available where other fonts are held

 

H T H

[giemme]

13 minutes ago, CedB said:

but Giorgio what's this about HALF a glass of wine??!!

Leftover from the day before, and I had to drive my daughter to a volleyball game after dinner... .

 

Masks look good, BTW  And yes, I think those serials are too small for the cutter, at least in my experience

 

Ciao

 

 

[John Laidlaw]

1 hour ago, CedB said:

I'm probably asking too much - some of the characters are saveable but look at the 9s:

 

 

I think I'll use the transfers for the serials  

For stuff like this, you'd be better off with Tamiya masking sheets:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-300087129-Masking-Film-250-180/dp/B004WBC07Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Tamiya+Masking+Sticker+Sheet&qid=1576708934&sr=8-1

 

Oramask is great for some things, but can be annoyingly inconsistent for fine detail work.

[CedB]

11 hours ago, perdu said:

Ced I finally remembered to look up the RAF font I use for wartime printing, it is RAF_WW2_851ATH and should be available where other fonts are held

 

H T H

Thanks Bill  I've had a look around and, although I can find the .ttf files, I can't find a format that will load on the Mac  

This site showed the history of the ATH fonts and the problems… 

Looks like I'll have to use the 'They were painted onsite without templates' excuse!

11 hours ago, giemme said:

Leftover from the day before, and I had to drive my daughter to a volleyball game after dinner... .

 

Masks look good, BTW  And yes, I think those serials are too small for the cutter, at least in my experience

 

Ciao

Leftover wine? Never heard of it  

I think you're right about the serial being too small for the cutter G (see below)

10 hours ago, John Laidlaw said:

For stuff like this, you'd be better off with Tamiya masking sheets:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-300087129-Masking-Film-250-180/dp/B004WBC07Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Tamiya+Masking+Sticker+Sheet&qid=1576708934&sr=8-1

 

Oramask is great for some things, but can be annoyingly inconsistent for fine detail work.

Aha! Thanks John, I have some of that:

 

 

 

Same problem. I think Giorgio is right and the serials are too small for the cutter unless you're TheBaron! Even he has problems with bits lifting (fnaar!)

 

Transfers will be used for those, on with painting the rest.

[CedB]

Before I start painting  I checked Cookie's post that I've bookmarked.

 

Back in the day we had problems with a white base (for the roundel) showing a ring if the masks weren't precisely re-positioned so the tested method we use now is 'blue then red then yellow then white'. Actually the important thing is darker colours first - don't forget the other colours are masked so we're not trying to over-spray anything (other than the underlying colours).

 

Thinking about re-positioning the masks I think I'll do the red first 'cos getting the centre dot back in is probably easier that the outer ring.

 

Of course the perfect way to do this is to paint the roundels first and mask them over so that the surrounding paint is the same level at the end.

Next time, maybe.