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Pocher F40 with Autograph Transkit 1:8


terrible4130
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hey guys!! I have made a ton of progress due to the quarantine. I finalized the entire engine. This includes all wiring and turbo plumbing. I made custom fittings for the turbos as well as custom decals for the turbos and radiators. They didn't turn out as well as I would have hoped but oh well. I have also officially mounted the engine into the frame for good and completed rear suspension. This will be shown in my next update. Enjoy!

 

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Looks great! It gives me something to really think about and more to the point, it gives me the motivation to get back to work on my build. Are those turbo ID plates on the decal sheet? For some reason I don’t remember seeing them or some of the other small ID plates like on the starter as an example. Great work and nobody knows as well as I how much work this represents!

 I probably should probably have read your text a little closer and I would have seen that you made the ID plate decals. So, what did you use for the template for the decals? Thanks!

 

Edited by larchiefeng
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That is a beast of an engine! It’s almost a shame to hide it inside the car. I’ve always fancied the Testarossa kit, but too scared I’d mess up a £800 kit. You definitely have the skills, I look forward to seeing this come together

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3 hours ago, Mr Mansfield said:

but too scared I’d mess up a £800

EIGHT HUNDRED QUID???????

 

I paid £125 for mine brand new about 35 years ago. It's in a bit of a state right now.

It needs new 'glass', but other than that it's probably doable. Maybe I'll get the DVD for this one and have another go!

 

Cheers,

Alan.

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The Pocher F40 kit is running anywhere from $700 - $2,000 depending AND, this Autograph transkit is between $1,700 - $2,000 IF you can find one. So, not for the faint of heart!

Tommaso Iuele is making a transkit for the Testarossa that he is finally selling at between $650 and $700 now. I just got an email from him asking if I wanted mine shipped. I’m kinda toilet paper poor right now and I’m thinking about it, lol 😂 

Cleaning up the workbench now to attack my F40 again.

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Thanks for all the remarks!! I am about ready to start on the body work. I have two cases of Italian Red Tamiya spray cans. Any one have advice on building a paint booth for a small city apartment? Perhaps using a box fan or something? Am I better off buying one on Amazon? Ive seen some for around $150.

 

Yea it seems the unbuilt F40 Pocher kits really went up in value over the past couple years. Uli at Autograph had a few more Transkits for sale at the regular $1400 price. He stated they would be the FINAL run. So, I actually purchased an extra for my eventual Pilot LM build. Looks like they are sold out now. I saw those Tommaso Iuele Testarossa transkits. Im gonna skip that and wait till he releases his Porsche transkit. Im curious to see the quality. Please post photos once you receive it.

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The only advice that I can give you on the spray booth is make sure that you have a lazy Susan/rotating platform to have your parts on. As you know these are large heavy parts and you want to be sure that you don’t have to handle it during the paint process. I built my own booth years ago and it’s big enough to be able to get all the way around it. If it were me, knowing what I know now, I would probably just use a box fan and make the surround out of cardboard. This way you can always make it bigger or smaller as needed. I think that the ones you mentioned for sale might be too small. My spray booth is 32” wide x 23 1/“ tall x 23 1/2”deep. These are the inside dimensions so, you can probably tell that I used 1/2” plywood using 24” pieces.

 The other thing is, I see that you are using the Tamiya spray which is good. I used Model Masters spray which is enamel, big mistake!! I painted it 3-4 years ago and I still don’t think that it’s completely hard and cured. I still get marks and the paint is just not suited for a large metal body. At some point I might have to repaint. Since you stripped all the paint, you should use the Tamiya etching primer on the bare metal before you prime and paint the body. It will help with paint chipping off. I still regret stripping all the paint off. If I had to do it all over again, I would just sand the baked on finish down and just primed where I cut open the louvres and used the old paint as the undercoat.

As far as the other transkit goes, I think that I have decided to pass on it. I already have a fully detailed metal engine in it and I think that I can use what Pascal has done with his F40 as a sort of template to fabricate the Testarossa suspension etc. I don’t need any engine upgrades and $650-$700 is a little too much right now.

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I have a turntable already on order and its on its way. I hadnt heard of the etching primer. I bought a ton of regular Tamiya primer. Do you think this will work? I never considered chipping. Also, do you have a suggestion on what clearcoat to use over the Tamiya spray cans? I was thinking of airbrushing light coats of heavily thinned w/ laquer thinner Tamiya gloss clear. Then using Tamiya 3 stage polishing compounds. Do you think this is a good plan? Im starting with the rear lower metal part as a sort of practice piece as it will be the least visible.

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9 minutes ago, terrible4130 said:

 I was thinking of airbrushing light coats of heavily thinned w/ laquer thinner Tamiya gloss clear. Then using Tamiya 3 stage polishing compounds. Do you think this is a good plan? Im starting with the rear lower metal part as a sort of practice piece as it will be the least visible.

If you lay out the well-thinned Tammy clear well and dust-free enough, I would skip the Tammy polishing compounds. The clear alone will make the red more vibrant and compound will knock off some of that hard reflective shine. Let the clear be the last finish coat for max gloss.

Tammy primer is fine for plastic but Wayne is right about etching primer on the metal bits. Just wet sand after evenly coated between 600 and 1200 grits.

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I tried painting 1/8 bodies in my apartment using an Artograph 1530 spray booth and ran into a lot of problems. The parts are too big for the booth and I could not get good coverage from the can.  I would stay clear of the hobby size booths and try to build your own that is large enough for you to pick up and spin the body.  That said I have not built a booth so I can’t assist with how tos unfortunately... I plan to take my bodies to a motorcycle/auto painter 

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I would use the Tamiya etching primer on the bare metal first and then use the regular primer and then the red. The other thing to keep in mind is that “red” is a bit of a translucent color and the color of the primer underneath it will affect the color of the red. Gray primer will make the red darker in color. White primer will give a brighter red color. For future reference this also applies to orange and yellow. I always use a white primer underneath these colors.

My experience with the Tamiya clear is that it is really dependent on the number of coats. I would probably just do a few light coats and keep building up the coats until you get the look you want. The good thing about Tamiya paint is that it dries fast but, the temperature and humidity will also affect the clear. Spraying too far away and when it’s too hot will possibly cause the paint to atomize as it comes out of the nozzle and be almost dry when it hits the surface. 
Rich’s idea is probably the best to get the best paint job!

Edited by larchiefeng
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I can highly recommend the Motip spray cans.

 

Very nice work on the engine / gearbox. Love the tiny scratchbuild details that you added.

 

What paint did you use to get the rough finish on this part ? :

 

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Sincerely

 

Pascal

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larchiefeng,

 

Sorry I forgot to answer your first question. The decal on the starter is just from the original pocher decal sheet. Honestly its for something completely different. The size and shape just looked right so I used it. All the additional decals including the turbo serial number plate and the Behr logos on the radiator I printed on Testors decal sheets from an Adobe Illustrator document I created from photo references.

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That engine is the BOMB.  And freaking huge!  How are you keeping track of all the hoses/lines?  Were it me I'd have taped tags on every line.  The custom decals are beautiful.

 

I'm not a big fan of these exhaust headers.  I wanted to see if I could find any reference of the headers and came across this:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-F40-Engine-Exhaust-Headers-142576-142575-Genuine-Pair-DX-SX-Left-Right-/153513964822 

 

The listing even says "first bid buys".  I'm thinking a Pocher F40 will be as close as I ever get.

Edited by JCH
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The exhaust headers are very strange indeed. If you have the chance to see them in person they are a strange beast. There is a very thin metal skin over the whole thing that gives them that webbed look. They also change color over milage so I tried to capture them in their adolescent stage and paint them accordingly. 

 

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  • 5 months later...
On 3/10/2020 at 1:27 AM, terrible4130 said:

Big update today! I have had alot of parts laying around. Everything is finally falling into place. All the piping from the manifolds to the turbos / muffler were tricky. Alot of dry-fitting and adjusting was necessary. I ended up having to scratch build the two lengths from the "Y" to the tips of the manifolds. Now onto wiring...

 

 

 

 

 

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Awesome work, I just resumed my work too, may I know where you got the spring for the screws of the exhaust pipe?

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