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Tamiya Lancia Stratos Turbo


Spiny

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(Damn! Messed up the quote, so this is @Codger) You're very kind, too kind in fact. Certainly, the decals are a long way from the perfection/near perfection I've seen on many builds around here, not to mention ALL of the works I saw on your Sedanca.

 

The ironic thing with your comments re. the shutlines is that one reason they stand out so much is that I took a scalpel to the decals to trace them and make sure it looked like a door. Unfortunatley, now you've mentioned them I think you're right that they do look a bit noticeable even though I did them in grey rather than black, particularly in the photos but also in the real life shell too (although looking at photos of the real thing the panel gaps have a decidedly un-German quality about them!). I think you're probably correct that a careful single layer of white/green in the shutlines would help - thankyou for the kind words and advice.

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22 minutes ago, Spiny said:

(Damn! Messed up the quote, so this is @Codger) You're very kind, too kind in fact. Certainly, the decals are a long way from the perfection/near perfection I've seen on many builds around here, not to mention ALL of the works I saw on your Sedanca.

 

THAT was easy -no graphics to mess up! :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a weekend off, back to this one. I managed to sneak a break in the weather and airbrush on the Future onto the body - not entirely successful as I had a couple of runs and then sanded through the black side decal trying to get rid of one. Fortunately, that was in a plain black area, so it was an easy patch up and hopefully all sorted now. That is my first time airbrushing Future/Revive It and it certainly seems to airbrush oddly - it went on and looked like a load of drops, almost like rain on a freshly waxed car, and I ended up putting too much on trying to get an even finish, hence the runs. However, it did even out with time, so not too bad once the runs have been sanded out, fortunately non in a hard-to-reach area. I'm not going to go mad with polishing this one what with it being a race car, but it will get a bit of a go with the Tamiya polish next week. No photos here as it doesn't really look any different to before apart from a more even shine between paint and decal.

 

With the body still being painted, I concentrated on the bits which still need attaching. My scratchbuilding skills are beginner level at best, and certainly way behind many of you on here, but this is how my replacement door card ended up. Not even close to an exact match, but it's not in a readily visible area so it will do the job (semi-painted pic later on as well). This is just made up from pieces of styrene sheet, cut, bend and glued into place with a small offcut of spare sprue making up the window knob.

 

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The other bit which took time was that dashboard (don't they always?). Unfortunately, there weren't any decals for this in the Shunko set (nor were there in the original Tamiya set for that matter), so I had to paint all the dials in - at least the needles and marks were raised making painting easier. All the instructions said was "Meter - Chrome Silver", so I had to look online for the colours, and even then with no joy. This is based off a random Stratos HF Rallye pic, but there doesn't seem to be a consistent appearance to the dashbaords, so this colour scheme would be considered plausible rather than accurate. It definitely gave the magnifying glasses and ultra-fine brush a workout though!

 

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And finally, this is a pic of all the pieces done this weekend. The windscreen has had a polish with Tamiya Fine, and everything else has been painted with the tail-lights taking a lot of layers as usual. I still want to put another layer of black on the replacement door card but this should give an idea of how it will turn out.

 

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Not sure if I'll get this finished next week or the week after, but suddenly it all feels as if it's coming together quickly.

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Well, I didn't get it finished this weekend, but on the bright side everything apart from the windscreen wiper is painted and ready to stick on the body. Why the wiper? It got broken in half at some stage through the years, so I got hold of some photoetch wipers to apply instead. Unfortunately, I missed the bit where I had to bend it, so now I've ordered a set of bending pliers (expensive hobby this!). Unfortunately, the photoetch wipers don't have a pivot for fixing to the body, so I intend to trim down the remains of the original wiper and fix the photoetch over it. Not the greatest photo ever, but this is what I have at the moment:

 

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Meanwhile, during last week I came to the conclusion that I wasn't all that happy with the results of airbrushing the Pledge, so I decided to try brushing it on. Had a couple of runs which needed sanding out, but it's had a polish too so fingers crossed there's nothing more to do to it now. It's also had some more touching up of the green due to a couple of bits polishing through, and I followed @Codger's suggestion of running over the panel lines with a light grey to tone them down a bit. Next weekend looks like a gluing weekend, but barring wiper related catastrophes I'm hopeful of completing. In the meantime, this is how the body ended up:

 

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Thanks for looking.

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Missed that :doh:

 

I did originally do them in matt black, but the Pledge has done it's magic and made them a bit glossy as you've noticed (it's not as obvious on a grey day in real life, honest!). I'm a bit wary of putting masking tape over decals, so I think this will need some clear matt paint brushing over them - fingers crossed that doesn't whiten the rubbers.

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12 minutes ago, Spiny said:

Missed that :doh:

 

I did originally do them in matt black, but the Pledge has done it's magic and made them a bit glossy as you've noticed (it's not as obvious on a grey day in real life, honest!). I'm a bit wary of putting masking tape over decals, so I think this will need some clear matt paint brushing over them - fingers crossed that doesn't whiten the rubbers.

If you can find a tiny test area, dip a cotton bud into a small amount of iso and rub the gloss. It should remove the Pledge. Don't do this if the black is acrylic too....

Remember - test first.

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9 hours ago, Spiny said:

I'm a bit wary of putting masking tape over decals, so I think this will need some clear matt paint brushing over them - fingers crossed that doesn't whiten the rubbers.

Spiny, please get an acrylic marker, it's so much easier than masking and brushing, really! I use a 2mm Molotow myself, it's excellent for this kind of stuff.

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I've done a couple of these old resto builds over the years and I always have a great time with them. Just taking them back apart and looking at how I had put things together back then was a good trip down memory lane. There are some good rewards to be had out of builds like these. I do have a couple on the shelf that I refuse to redo so as to have and show where I was and were I am in scale modeling these days. My son asked me once about how come I got as good as I am and I'm able to show him my untouched old (and I do mean old) builds just to prove that I didn't start out perfectly.

 

Very good progress on your build. This is looking good.

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Thank you to Mustang for the kind words - good to see I'm not the only one who likes to revisit the kits from childhood. And thanks also to Codger and Jeroen for your advice. Even if I don't use those tips on this occasion, rest assured that they are lodged into the memory bank for next time I need them :)

 

On 11/11/2019 at 21:02, Codger said:

If you can find a tiny test area, dip a cotton bud into a small amount of iso and rub the gloss. It should remove the Pledge. Don't do this if the black is acrylic too....

Remember - test first.

Unfortunately most of my painting is in acrylic, and the black is no exception, Fortunately, I have some Revell matt clear just waiting to be tested out (the Humbrol enamel matt clear was what gave me some white residue) and I think the window rubbers look like they should be perfect as a test bed.

15 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Spiny, please get an acrylic marker, it's so much easier than masking and brushing, really! I use a 2mm Molotow myself, it's excellent for this kind of stuff.

Having used the 2mm chrome pen, I can't disagree with you that the marker pen will be so much easier. You're right that I probably should get one for touching up the window rubbers if I go through them. However, one thing I am spectacularly rubbish at is doing straight lines freehand unless there's an edge I can run up to - even with the pen I still mask as I can get a much better quality job. Of course, it helps that I'm what I believe are the few people who don't find masking a most incredibly dull, boring and tedious job; there's almsot something relaxing about it... ... ...unless the tape starts peeling paint off - then it's just annoying!

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8 hours ago, Alan R said:

… or worse, it pulls the paint off when you try to remove it … :(

 

Cheers,

Alan.

Paint is fixable (with patience and a bit of polishing) - it's when it starts trying to pull decals off (as happened with the Charger!) where the problems really start :( - in fact it's that Charger experience which is sending my towards the matt clear rather than matt black for this repair.

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Good news! After dragging along for the last two or three weeks, I finally got this one finished. :)

 

In truth, it was pretty close last week, just needed to do the wiper, add a few small bits of paint and fit everything I'd got ready for the body. First up was that photoetch wiper, and this was the only bit which gave me any trouble - it took three goes before I got the blade to attach properly but finally I got enough CA on it to hold. I think the main problem though was getting the blade held perpendicular to the arm, it kept wanting to fall over and there isn't really a contact patch other than the thickness of a piece of photoetch.

 

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In the end, I used two reverse-action tweezers to hold the bits in place while the glue dried and with some structural paintwork thrown into the mix now it's pretty firm.

 

The rest went together quite easily, not really a surprise given that this is a kit I've built before so no nasty surprises. As the inside doesn't really show very well once built, I figured I'd grab a pic before I put the body on. For this build, I got some crystal clear UV activated resin to try instead of the clearfix on the clear parts, and I have to say that I'm impressed - not only does it dry clear but it appears to have a stronger hold than the Clearfix, guess I'm going to stick with this now. Just make sure that you don't get it where it's not wanted, I got a small bit on the windscreen and it seems to be stuck there. That said, it has done a very good job of holding the wiper in place with no mess - hopefully unlike the original this wiper won't snap in half.

 

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The RFI thread is here:

 

 

In the meantime though, here's a sneak preview of the finished article.

 

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