Blackbird M-21 + Drone - Italeri 1/72

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Shazam ... Bar again🥃  and not on the first page. ☹️

Edited September 10, 2019 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[CedB]

27 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Not quite an SR71 story but I worked at the  Preston Area Radar unit (based at  Manchester airport)  in the late ‘60s/early ‘70s when the TSR2 was being flight tested at Wharton. We were notified when they were using their supersonic corridor which ran NE between the IOM and the mainland towards Scotland and we also used to track them ( TSR2 + Lightning chase plane ) by marking the ‘blips’ with chinagraph pencil. The TSRS would pull away from the Lightning quite quickly and it’s radar  returns would become further apart, although not as much as Antti describes.

 

John

Nice story John  I remember that bit from the TSR2 documentary; she pulled away from the Lightning, even when it was on reheat apparently. Sad story  

26 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Shazam ... Bar again🥃  and not on the first page. ☹️

Hi Dennis, good to see you  

 

 

I was looking at my desktop picture wondering if I should use copper for the drone nose when I noticed there was no gap in the nose intake. Rats.

Pulled out the pointy bit and noticed the hole wasn't round:

 

 

Excess plastic cleaned off.

Then I looked at the reference shots - there's a hole.

Of course there is, it's an INTAKE, idiot!

Glued back in, rounder:

 

 

I guess my nice desktop picture must be some sort of transport cover.

Idiot.

[CT7567]

3 hours ago, CedB said:

I guess my nice desktop picture must be some sort of transport cover.

Idiot.

No need to be overly harsh on yourself, you just pressed on cutting plastic - which is what it's all about, right?

 

Apparently in early "captive carriage" tests of the M-12/D-21 pair, there were aerodynamic covers placed over both the nose intake and the exhaust of the drone:

 

Per the Wikipedia article these were abandoned for later launch tests because there was no safe and reliable way to detach them at Mach 3 🔥😨🔥 (those who know the program's history understand already that "safe and reliable" for this mating was unfortunately never really achieved).

 

If you'll pardon a bit more digression while on the subject of the D-21, for those who haven't seen it, the late great Phil "Bondo" Brandt built the B-52 "Senior Bowl" drone mother ship in 1/72 as published on Hyperscale circa 2002:

http://hyperscale.com/features/2002/seniorbowlpb_1.htm

 

Edited September 10, 2019 by CT7567
Corrected typo

[Robert]

You might find this useful https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Modeling-References/Aerofax/Minigraph/01-Lockheed-SR-71-Blackbird

 

Regards

Robert

[Planebuilder62]

Dear CedB

 

Please be aware that to make an M21/A12 out of the SR-71 then some surgery needs to be applied to the nose and tail. The M21 had a slender nose in plan view and less bulbous when looking for the side. The fuel dump at the tail was level with the elevon back edge and not stuck out like the SR 71. If you take a close look at the Seattle plane you will see the differences.

 

The 2 probes on the front of the D21 drone were not present when it was used with the M21, they came later when it was launched from the B-52

 

Hope that helps

😉

regards Toby

[giemme]

6 hours ago, CedB said:

You'll also notice what I call 'my Giorgio pickup tool' in that shot. I spent quite a lot on fancy stuff until he suggested putting some BlueTak on a stick! Works well and easily refreshed - thanks Giorgio

Glad it serves you well, Ced

On the other hand, you talked me into using a wax pencil to pick up very small bits, and that works a treat too. Ain't BM a great place?

 

You're proceeding quite smoothly and quickly with this build so far - good!

Edit: read about the drone after posting, but great save

 

Ciao

Edited September 10, 2019 by giemme

[CedB]

7 hours ago, CT7567 said:

No need to be overly harsh on yourself, you just pressed on cutting plastic - which is what it's all about, right?

 

Apparently in early "captive carriage" tests of the M-12/D-21 pair, there were aerodynamic covers placed over both the nose intake and the exhaust of the drone:

[snip picture]

 

Per the Wikipedia article these were abandoned for later launch tests because there was no safe and reliable way to detach them at Mach 3 🔥😨🔥 (those who know the program's history understand already that "safe and reliable" for this mating was unfortunately never really achieved).

 

If you'll pardon a bit more digression while on the subject of the D-21, for those who haven't seen it, the late great Phil "Bondo" Brandt built the B-52 "Senior Bowl" drone mother ship in 1/72 as published on Hyperscale circa 2002:

http://hyperscale.com/features/2002/seniorbowlpb_1.htm

 

Thanks CT - very helpful and explains my problem.  

6 hours ago, Robert said:

You might find this useful https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Modeling-References/Aerofax/Minigraph/01-Lockheed-SR-71-Blackbird

 

Regards

Robert

Thanks Robert, very helpful, thanks  

6 hours ago, Planebuilder62 said:

Dear CedB

 

Please be aware that to make an M21/A12 out of the SR-71 then some surgery needs to be applied to the nose and tail. The M21 had a slender nose in plan view and less bulbous when looking for the side. The fuel dump at the tail was level with the elevon back edge and not stuck out like the SR 71. If you take a close look at the Seattle plane you will see the differences.

 

The 2 probes on the front of the D21 drone were not present when it was used with the M21, they came later when it was launched from the B-52

 

Hope that helps

😉

regards Toby

Thanks Toby - helpful  Major surgery is a bit much for a kit basher like me but I have chopped the probes off the front of the drone.

5 hours ago, giemme said:

Glad it serves you well, Ced

On the other hand, you talked me into using a wax pencil to pick up very small bits, and that works a treat too. Ain't BM a great place?

 

You're proceeding quite smoothly and quickly with this build so far - good!

Edit: read about the drone after posting, but great save

 

 

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio  Wax pencils for very small bits for me too!

 

 

Here's the primed drone prior to having its probes chopped off:

 

 

That'll give me a chance to try some painting techniques before attacking the main model.

 

What's this?

 

 

An awful photo of the clear part that goes behind the rear cockpit. Can you see the little lug at the bottom? And the excess plastic?

You need to trim off the latter without cutting off the former or the shape of the 'window' goes wrong, I guess.

It's in now and masked:

 

 

Started on the i/ps. Molotow liquid chrome in the screens then clear green:

 

 

I quite like that effect.

More tomorrow.

[giemme]

Glowing screens!

 

Ciao

[CedB]

Thanks Giorgio - they'll look good on the ceiling!  

 

 

Right, here we go with the paint tests:

 

 

The plan was to try panels in the NATO black and get some variation with the thinned German Grey. The Glossy black is for the nose cone.

Now I'm not very skilled with the airbrush and always have problems with thinned paints spidering but it's a technique I want to get better at. Practice makes perfect they say.

 

I brush painted the glossy on the nose (it's Model Color, not 'air'), sprayed the NATO black un-thinned on the front panels and elevons, grey thinned 50/50 on some panel lines and patches:

 

 

The black looks fine IMHO - sort of flatter than the primer. The grey looks like some idiot with an airbrush is practicing panel lines. It's too light as well. Nasty.

 

Let's try grabbing the first bottle carefully selecting another darker grey, again thinned 50/50 with Vallejo thinner and sprayed at 10psi with the 0.2 nozzle:

 

 

From this angle?

 

 

If you think that's bad you should see the underside:

 

 

Those panels at the back are all grey to see what the colour's like.

Not happy with that. 

 

It was better with lower (about 5psi) pressure and closer up but I'm still getting spidering and the occasional splatter.

Any tips chaps?

Give up is an option.

 

Pilots are on their way so I'll do some more on the internals.

[CedB]

I've given the bad spots a rub with some 3600 Micromesh and cleaned off with one of Mrs B's discarded makeup scrub cloths (no idea what they are but apparently slightly abrasive) and it's looking better:

 

 

I'll let it dry for a bit longer then mask up for the Titanium.

[giemme]

Post shading is definitely a technique that requires some practice, Ced (post shading on black probably being the hardest of the tasks).

 

Here are a few hints:

 - try first with paints that are more controllable through the airbrush and less prone to spidering, such as Tamiya or Gunze (which are alcohol based acrylics, or fake acrylics as I like to say); vinyl based acrylics such as Italeri, Lifecolor or Vallejo are harder to deal with, finding the correct thinning ratio for the job etc

- I normally use a very thinned mix, but not necessarily spraying up close, unless I want to post shade along the panel lines; I rather use a very low pressure and a minimum amount of paint flowing through the nozzle, starting from the centre of the panel and going outwards with circular movements of the airbrush

- Don't try to get the effect in one go: multiple light passes (as always) are to be preferred

- Practice on a scrape part first: making adjustments becomes less frustrating, this way  

 

I don't suggest you give up, because post shading can be very rewarding

 

HTH

 

Ciao

 

EDIT: it is looking better, now  

Ciao

Edited September 11, 2019 by giemme

[perdu]

Blimey black!

 

Do, seriously try using Tamiya paints for this Ced.

 

I have had less success with Gunze but the few drops of it I sprayed beat anything by Vallejo.

 

I am going to enjoy the spray job, carry on number one.

[Fritag]

4 minutes ago, perdu said:

I am going to enjoy the spray job, carry on number one.

Yes 'carry on number one' or 'make it so' depending on your nautical or science fiction preferences 

 

Seriously tho', do keep up the public experiment Ced - it's a bl**dy useful learning experience for us all.  Almost public service broadcasting really......

[Mr Bowcat]

Watching with interest, I will be building this kit shortly and hoping to pick up some tips.

[keefr22]

2 hours ago, CedB said:

Any tips chaps?

 

As the others said Ced - don't use Valejo! I've never managed to get consistent results with the stuff.

 

As suggested Tamiya or Mr Hobby Aqeous if you want to use ''water based'' acrylics, or Mr Hobby laquer and the new Tamiya Laquer paints if you don't mind the solvent based stuff. AK 'Real' colors spray nicely too, but apparently their colour is far from real! I thin them all with Mr color levelling thinner but have recently bought  some of the new Tamiya laquer thinner with retarder. I haven't used it yet, but reports from those who have suggest its brilliant stuff.

 

But tbh Istill think for this sort of work enamels are far easier to spray than any of the acrylics, although I'm trying not to use them these days as it seems like cheating...!!

 

Keith

[roginoz]

Ced, when I need a black that's not quite black, ie for variation, my go-to paint is Mr Hobby [Creos] Dark Grey H401.

It is great for pre- and post-shading or as a primary colour on its own if you don't need a stark black, but if applied as an overall topcoat, it's just as suitable.

HTH

 

As with every Ced-Build [bloody autocorrect wants to call you Cad, which I'm sure you're not.....], I'm enjoying the build 'n' banter; keep up the good work !

 

Rog 

 

[LongMan2]

Hi Ced,

 

Yeah the SR-71 was remarkable for its time. However the Russians are claiming a pair of Mig-31s took one out in the early 80's I believe.

 

There were many sightings of those drones...I believe as UFO's (those words again) by airline pilots. I did a pencil and gouache drawing in the 80's which hangs on my den wall here of a SR-71. Was lucky to find a 1/48 kit of the SR-71 while I served time in the USA with a resin cockpit and wheels.

 

One of the things I was going to try was to replicate the wet surfaces of the aircraft. No one seems to do that for some reason...its just plain black. A good primer (Tamiya) on a cleaned surface will be a decent start I'd imagine. According to accounts the plane would physically grow because of the air friction at speed, so when it cooled down there were some wide panel gaps. Crews would need to use special tools to service the aircraft...because of the tough titanium. It is alleged one can't start a fire with a match under a SR-71...however if you light a t-shirt and drop it into a puddle it might be interesting...their rocket juice must have had a high ignition point.   

 

Watch'n with interest...

 

Phil

 

[CedB]

2 hours ago, giemme said:

Post shading is definitely a technique that requires some practice, Ced (post shading on black probably being the hardest of the tasks).

 

Here are a few hints:

 - try first with paints that are more controllable through the airbrush and less prone to spidering, such as Tamiya or Gunze (which are alcohol based acrylics, or fake acrylics as I like to say); vinyl based acrylics such as Italeri, Lifecolor or Vallejo are harder to deal with, finding the correct thinning ratio for the job etc

- I normally use a very thinned mix, but not necessarily spraying up close, unless I want to post shade along the panel lines; I rather use a very low pressure and a minimum amount of paint flowing through the nozzle, starting from the centre of the panel and going outwards with circular movements of the airbrush

- Don't try to get the effect in one go: multiple light passes (as always) are to be preferred

- Practice on a scrape part first: making adjustments becomes less frustrating, this way  

 

I don't suggest you give up, because post shading can be very rewarding

 

HTH

 

Ciao

 

EDIT: it is looking better, now  

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio - very helpful and used below  

1 hour ago, perdu said:

Blimey black!

 

Do, seriously try using Tamiya paints for this Ced.

 

I have had less success with Gunze but the few drops of it I sprayed beat anything by Vallejo.

 

I am going to enjoy the spray job, carry on number one.

Thanks Bill - will do!  

1 hour ago, Fritag said:

Yes 'carry on number one' or 'make it so' depending on your nautical or science fiction preferences 

 

Seriously tho', do keep up the public experiment Ced - it's a bl**dy useful learning experience for us all.  Almost public service broadcasting really......

Cheers Steve - I'm always up for a good experiment; I just don't like the results some time  

29 minutes ago, Mr Bowcat said:

Watching with interest, I will be building this kit shortly and hoping to pick up some tips.

Welcome!  

9 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

 

As the others said Ced - don't use Valejo! I've never managed to get consistent results with the stuff.

 

As suggested Tamiya or Mr Hobby Aqeous if you want to use ''water based'' acrylics, or Mr Hobby laquer and the new Tamiya Laquer paints if you don't mind the solvent based stuff. AK 'Real' colors spray nicely too, but apparently their colour is far from real! I thin them all with Mr color levelling thinner but have recently bought  some of the new Tamiya laquer thinner with retarder. I haven't used it yet, but reports from those who have suggest its brilliant stuff.

 

But tbh Istill think for this sort of work enamels are far easier to spray than any of the acrylics, although I'm trying not to use them these days as it seems like cheating...!!

 

Keith

Thanks Keith  But, but… I have LOADS of the stuff and the 'Air' has been good to me, dodgy colours aside. Always up for a new experience though…

 

 

You may notice that I've changed the title to reflect the chosen subject. Hope it didn't confuse anyone.

 

This took far longer than I'd imagined:

 

 

I tried to mask up to, but not over, the panel lines. My poor eyes…

 

Anyway, before one commits to a paint plan I suggest you check you have enough paint:

 

 

I bet it was that HUGE Peacemaker that ate most of that. Also means I have sprayed Tamiya before. Senior moment.

I gave the pot a good stir making sure I'd got the gunk off the bottom and thinned it 50/50 with X-20A thinners. Having searched BM the acquired wisdom seems to be 50/50 at 15psi so I went for that with my 0.2mm nozzle:

 

 

Hmmm. Seems to be a bit fizzy? As usual with metallics the pigment is thin so several mist coats but it's still patchy around the tail:

 

 

 

That's still wet so perhaps it'll settle? Fingers crossed.

[CedB]

Oops, sorry chaps, you posted while I was typing…

 

 

11 minutes ago, roginoz said:

Ced, when I need a black that's not quite black, ie for variation, my go-to paint is Mr Hobby [Creos] Dark Grey H401.

It is great for pre- and post-shading or as a primary colour on its own if you don't need a stark black, but if applied as an overall topcoat, it's just as suitable.

HTH

 

As with every Ced-Build [bloody autocorrect wants to call you Cad, which I'm sure you're not.....], I'm enjoying the build 'n' banter; keep up the good work !

 

Rog 

 

Thanks Rog, good tip  Don't worry about the autocorrect, I've been called worse!

5 minutes ago, LongMan2 said:

Hi Ced,

 

Yeah the SR-71 was remarkable for its time. However the Russians are claiming a pair of Mig-31s took one out in the early 80's I believe.

 

There were many sightings of those drones...I believe as UFO's (those words again) by airline pilots. I did a pencil and gouache drawing in the 80's which hangs on my den wall here of a SR-71. Was lucky to find a 1/48 kit of the SR-71 while I served time in the USA with a resin cockpit and wheels.

 

One of the things I was going to try was to replicate the wet surfaces of the aircraft. No one seems to do that for some reason...its just plain black. A good primer (Tamiya) on a cleaned surface will be a decent start I'd imagine. According to accounts the plane would physically grow because of the air friction at speed, so when it cooled down there were some wide panel gaps. Crews would need to use special tools to service the aircraft...because of the tough titanium. It is alleged one can't start a fire with a match under a SR-71...however if you light a t-shirt and drop it into a puddle it might be interesting...their rocket juice must have had a high ignition point.   

 

Watch'n with interest...

 

Phil

 

Hi Phil and thanks for the story - great stuff  I'd heard about the leaking and some have tried to replicate this, but it's tricky I guess. Mine will be on the ceiling 'at altitude', my excuse for not bothering!

 

 

Just checked again and it's not levelling and looks a bit grainy. Hmmm. 

I'll have some lunch now and report back later.

[keefr22]

11 minutes ago, CedB said:

Just checked again and it's not levelling and looks a bit grainy.

 

The old Tamy acrylics did have  a bit of a reputation for that, and I guess you've got a lot of pigment flakes left in the bottom of that jar, which might make it worse....

 

The new laquer paints have much finer flakes in them. 

 

K

[perdu]

3 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

The new laquer paints have much finer flakes in them.

Useful to know, ta Keith

[CedB]

2 hours ago, keefr22 said:

 

The old Tamy acrylics did have  a bit of a reputation for that, and I guess you've got a lot of pigment flakes left in the bottom of that jar, which might make it worse....

 

The new laquer paints have much finer flakes in them. 

 

K

Thanks Keith  I guess the lacquer paints are the LP range? Mine was bought for the Peacemaker I think… I'll look now.

[CedB]

Yep, I used X-32 on the Peacemaker; remember this?

 

 

So that's where the paint went! Ho hum…

 

Masks off:

 

 

Happy with that, apart from the back bit. I wonder which AK paste is close to the 'Titanium'? How about Darl Aluminium?

 

 

 

Looks good to me. Can you see which panel I 'pasted'? No? Good. It's the one under the fin.

 

I dotted some thinned NATO black into the vents / grills, brushed the tip of the pointy bit steel and applied some gunmetal to some panels, just for effect:

 

 

 

 

In natural light from the window:

 

 

Happy with that so I'll use the paste on the main model, probably sprayed.

 

Pilots arriving tomorrow apparently so back to the internals.

[AdrianMF]

Wow, it's hard work keeping up with the Whitley Thunderbolt SR-71 and drone! Looking good though.

 

Regards,

Adrian

[Thom216]

Nice save with the paste. Looking real sharp!