ProfSparks Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Hi All Welcome to my voyage towards probably the best kits I have ever bought, even by mistake. It may take me a while to get to it, I may meander along the way, I may retrace my steps a couple of times, but it starts here. And it starts with this No etch, no canopy, no fancy livery, and just a single marking option. It's quite petit but is well detailed and moulded. Some parts need opening out if it is to be rigged And I shall be rigging it But first, with thanks to @CedB for the nudge towards @limeypilot, a passable representation of wood needs to be found. Base colours chosen from what I have already If none of these turn out suitable I shall invest. Everything given a light coat of white primer to seal it in And on with the colours! An interesting interpretation for some of the shades... When I get back they'll get a streak of something across them, and then a coat of clear orange. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 (edited) Go for the radome tan as a base for the wood. That's what I used until I started using cdl or a light tan. Ian Edited September 5, 2019 by limeypilot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 +1 for Ian's suggestion. My recent SH-2 build, I used Linen as a base and that worked well too. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 Thanks guys, I might get some cdl, linen and sail type base colours too as I'd like to have some variation. Also I'm after a convincing dark, reddish wood. I've seen how it looks deep as an accent tone on framing. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 This sort of colour? I posted a brief how-to on the build log. Please feel free to shout if you need more details! Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 Oh I'm definitely in for this one Steve! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Hi All On 9/6/2019 at 4:02 PM, limeypilot said: This sort of colour? I posted a brief how-to on the build log. Please feel free to shout if you need more details! Hi Ian, that is a gorgeous build, every aspect an eye opener. It makes me want to chuck it all in, and also try really really hard to get results as good as yours, both at the same time! On 9/6/2019 at 11:11 PM, CedB said: Oh I'm definitely in for this one Steve! Hi Mr B, an honour to have you looking over my shoulder sir! So, on with the eye test... I found some acrylic paint in tubes that looked like oil paints, so I thought I'd treat them likewise They seem to be a cheapo shop make (Aldi), and the brushes were from the same stable. A smear of the Yellow and one of the Umber, applied with the wider brush and 'scrubbed' about And I'm quite heartened! There is definitely scope for various wood finishes from pale (Vallejo Radome Tan with Yellow) through to rich (Tamiya Flesh with Burnt Umber). I then did three stripes of Tamiya Clear, Yellow Orange and Red Not exactly helpful, as the red caused some seepage problems (me and red, tsk 🍷), but I plan to view them independently once they've dried out (and me). Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 Hi All I started on getting the sparse cockpit together but as having difficulties with locating the floor and rear bulkhead Until I saw As it's "Experimental" I decided to try the Vallejo 72.099 Cadmium Skin as a base. On the panels went some thinned Yellow Ochre, smeared with a small brush The dark wood parts got the Burnt Sienna Looks a bit pants, so I washed thinned Tamiya Clear Yellow X-24 on the panels and Clear Orange X-26 on the dark And I don't think it's turned out too bad for a first run There's not much of it seen anyway once the halves are together I'll tweak the shades on subsequent builds, but for now I'm ok with it. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howlindawg Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 The 1/72 Eduards build up really nicely. I've a few in the stash to see me through the winter nights. You probably don't need structural rigging, EZ line would do, but seeing as how you've already started drilling I'm guessing you're after the practice? Good luck with the build! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Nice wrk Steve - very woody 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Hi All 15 hours ago, Howlindawg said: You probably don't need structural rigging, EZ line would do, but seeing as how you've already started drilling I'm guessing you're after the practice? Hi Howlindawg, yes I'm going to be trying the superfine Uschi line as no structural strength is needed. The halves joined up and smoothed out well, the front cowling join is covered by the gun I got the lower wing on with only the merest bead of PPP, and I drilled out some other rigging holes (see how thin the wings are!) And I also drilled out the two pipes that stick out from the forward section. However, they did not stay central and broke through, so I'm replacing them with bits of stretched cotton bud shaft A tiny spot of CA, my favourite tweezers, and only one of them pinged off into the next dimension They should be ok from a distance. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 (edited) The pipes are the air intakes for the engine. They should be positioned in the same place either side, viewed from both front and above. I think the left one is a little high as they led directly to the crankshaft, so they should be level with the centre of the engine. Nice progress so far! Ian Edited September 10, 2019 by limeypilot 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 Looking good Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marklo Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 Looking very good so far. Not my scale anymore but will be following for tips. (I have an N11 and an N17 in the stash both Eduard 1/48, although one may end up as a Siemens Shuckert DI (or the template for one) ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 13, 2019 Author Share Posted September 13, 2019 Hi All On 9/10/2019 at 3:43 PM, limeypilot said: The pipes are the air intakes for the engine. They should be positioned in the same place either side, viewed from both front and above. I think the left one is a little high as they led directly to the crankshaft, so they should be level with the centre of the engine. Nice progress so far! Ian Thanks Ian, that makes sense. I managed to put the new tubes on the little bosses that the kit parts were removed from, Eduard must have them slightly off? Anyhoo, a couple of swings and roundabouts. The parts were gathered for priming I'm going to use Stynylrez White for a smooth Aluminium finish While it was drying I started on a thinner replacement for the kit windscreen Stickytape mask Stuck on some thin clear sheet Cut out And pinged off into The Nether never to return. Onward though, the struts and prop are on their way But the Stynylrez has dried all blotchy (like it's not reaching the surface as a liquid) and runny (like it's too liquid) at the same time Only one thing for it, on with the Tamiya XF-2 White Much better, think this will be my 'go to' white primer. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 (Leaps to defence of Stynylrez) Steve did you shake the bottle, a lot? I find that some bottles have settled and I stick those 'paint shaker' steel balls in all my bottles. How about the nozzle / pressure? I use a 0.4 at 25psi. All that said, YMMV! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Hi All 5 hours ago, CedB said: (Leaps to defence of Stynylrez) Steve did you shake the bottle, a lot? I find that some bottles have settled and I stick those 'paint shaker' steel balls in all my bottles. How about the nozzle / pressure? I use a 0.4 at 25psi. All that said, YMMV! Hi Ced, no need to leap! I've had no trouble with their Black and Grey primers, just the white doesn't seem to work for me. Having said that, I have sprayed them all at my regular 0.2mm @ 18psi with good results from the other two. Perhaps I'll up the mm&psi on the next one. Anyhoo, to give a touch of variation in the all over Aluminium finish, I've sprayed the 'metal' parts with Stynylrez Grey (see, smoooth) And given it all a quick blast of Vallejo Air 71.062 Aluminium It's still wet, but there is a slight difference between the two undercoat finishes (and I've missed the top of the cowl ) so the next pass will include a couple of drops of white or grey in the mix on the wooden / doped parts. Comments and suggestions elcome Cheers Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Hi All While the main parts dry, I've been messing around with the engine, prop and struts I've invested in a couple of the MRP Metallics to see what they're about. They seem to be more of a wash than a solid colour (brushed on anyway), so for my own reference these are:- Engine - Base of Stynlyrez Grey Primer, coat of MRP-F086 Burnt Metal, coat of MRP-088 Steel, touch of Tamiya Brown Panel Line Accent Color Exhaust - Base of Valleyo Game Color 72.058 Brassy Brass, wash of MRP-F084 Copper, wash of Tamiya Brown Panel Line Accent Color Prop - Base of Vallejo Game Color 72.099 Cadmium Skin, thin coats of Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange Struts - Base of Vallejo Game Color 72.099 Cadmium Skin, thin coats of Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange, wash of Tamiya Brown Panel Line Accent Color Strut Top Brackets - Base of Valleyo Air 71.054 Dark Grey Blue, coat of MRP-F088 Steel I've drilled a couple of 0,3mm holes in the tops of the struts, and I think it's possible to rig the whole shebang without the top wing in place... We shall see. Anyhoo, everything's off to get a coat of floor polish and dry overnight. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Nice work Steve, especially at this scale. I particularly like that engine, nicely done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 15, 2019 Author Share Posted September 15, 2019 Hi All Well, time has come to introduce the latest piece of experimental equipment for The Lab. I don't know which one of you made me get it (and I'm not just talking about the voices in my head), but here it is. Boxed up like an online gaming artefact, it eventually assembles* into a small object of desire. It takes a couple of tries to know where the circle you're cutting out is going to end up as the motion of the handle and the blade are offset Anyhoo, discs cut for the wheels, slotted to make a cone, off to get some Vallejo Air 71.315 Tire Black. Removing the masking showed I'd been slightly off, but I'll cover the discrepancy with some dirt wash I also sprayed the tail as the supplied decal wouldn't conform round the control horns. Eduard are ahead of this and supply the tail markings as separate decals. Nice. The rest of the body got it's stickers on, and it's off to get a coat of flat on most parts. I'm leaving some slightly satin just give a touch of variation on an otherwise all over Aluminium finish. * now then, for such a relatively expensive piece of kit, I think the quality has some irregularities. The instructions don't cover or describe all the parts, and some deducing is necessary with the bolts and that little (surprisingly strong) magnet. That's it stuck to the underside of the 'top hat' piece, and the mechanics of the action are very clever. The 'top hat' screws its' brim down the extended spring coil and the cutting tip is held up in the head by the magnet. This lets you set the cut depth by screwing the hat up or down while also applying sprung pressure for the cut. The blade shaft is cylindrical and has a rounded end where it meets the magnet so it can swivel. Ingenious. However, a couple of niggles for such a clever machine. The red pointer that shows the RADIUS of the cut is very close to the ring that is used to lock and unlock the head in position. The red pointer itself doesn't have an exact location (compared with the rest of the parts) and has to be 'calibrated' by moving the head to its' innermost position, the red pointer lined up with 0 and tightened. Tightening moves the pointer slightly, so third time lucky. Unfortunately it can be easily nudged from its' calibration by locking or unlocking the head, no matter how tight the retaining screw is tightened. Also, when making concentric cuts, the body needs to be clamped to the work surface to stop it shifting when you change the setting. Oh, and remember to screw up the cutting blade clear of the masking tape before moving it too... But there are three cutting blade profiles for you to play with. Sorry for the irk. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Nice cutter Steve, very desirable… I shall resist though having invested in the Silhouette. Great work on the wheels and rudder too - they'll look good on that nicely painted fuselage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andwil Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Ummm did you forget the blue section of the rudder? AW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 Hi All 16 hours ago, CedB said: Nice cutter Steve, very desirable… I shall resist though having invested in the Silhouette. Great work on the wheels and rudder too - they'll look good on that nicely painted fuselage. Hi Ced, thanks (and one-upmanship acknowledged and accepted ) 11 hours ago, Andwil said: Ummm did you forget the blue section of the rudder? AW Haha no, I had a choice of two blues, one light and one dark. As the kit decal blue is quite dark, and as I was spraying on a white background, I chose the dark blue Anyhoo, I got the wing struts and windscreen on, and while they were setting I thought I'd start a fire. Just a little one, just enough to stretch a cotton bud shaft After a couple of attempts, I produced quite a fine tube And yes, it's still a tube! (It is, honest!) I ran a black marker over it and slipped it onto some 0,03mm Uschi elastic thread When I say 'slipped', think of trying to inturbate a Midgie. I then tried a slightly longer length over 0.02mm Uschi. This wasn't as successful, the thread was less inclined to go in and I think the tube has kinked in the middle, stopping the thread passing through. Not for this build, but good to know it can be done for future projects. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Poultney Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 This build is looking very good, now I kinda want to get some ww1 kits.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 24 minutes ago, ProfSparks said: Hi Ced, thanks (and one-upmanship acknowledged and accepted ) Awww, sorry Steve, it was a bit smug of me Nice work with the tubes though - turnbuckles eh? Not for this build? They look good to me… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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