Tamiya McLaren MP4/6 1/12

[JCH]

I don't know how long a set of headers last or how frequently they are replaced.  Did a new set go on each weekend?  Therefore I'm in a quandary as to weathering the headers.  F1 cars are, for the most part, kept squeaky clean.  The one component that does age is the headers and therefore lends itself the most to artistic impression.  I can't draw my way out of a paper bag an am very nervous regarding application of the effect but I digress.    

 

This picture shows testing of the header and the extreme heat generated by the engine creating the scaling and coloration of the header over time:

 

 This is clearly a new/newer header.  Some discoloration at the bends and weld lines but for the most part very clean.

 

This one is older.  But just later in the weekend or weeks into the seasons?

 

The choice will be mine and personal preference.  Likely I'll be start by trying the first picture and progress to the 2nd when my marginal artistic ability fails.

 

I don't know how often headers are replace and am curious.  Thoughts?

JCH

Edited April 29, 2020 by JCH

[silver911]

I am a great believer in 'if it looks right then it is right'...at the end of the day...it is all down to how you want it to look...clearly...either of the above would be correct at some point in time.

 

Very nice build mate.

 

Ron

[FunkyChiken]

You can't go wrong with mild heat discoloration, or 'as new look. I wouldn't go whole hog, unless I was going to fully weather the build... It's fantastic so far, glad you are enjoying the hobby again...

[JCH]

Ron - "'if it looks right then it is right'" - Good advice, thanks.

Funky - This forum is awesome.  Advice, support, tip, technique... My wife calls it "my dweeb site".  

 

Working directly on the engine block fitting the pipes is difficult at best.  I knew this would be a PITA but it's one of the larger focal points of the build.  I decided to make a jig.  This was time very well spent.  A bit of measuring, drilling, and "It's a Bingo!"  Really help setting individual pipes.  Gave me a clear plan for cementing (when the time comes).   

 

 

 

 

Placement on the block:

 

Fits on the block is identical to that of the jig.  I now have a clear plan of attack:

1. Finish sanding
2. Add weld lines
3. Assembly
   1. test fit test fit test fit test fit
   2. Post assembly, verify oil line placement which got me on the headers to start
4. Putty the seams and sanding
5. Putty pipes to ensure engine block manifold seating, as needed (I hope not!)
6. Bung hole fittings and clamps
7. Prime
8. Paint 
9. Weather (going to try the newer version of the header, but not brand new)

Thanks all!

[silver911]

That's a very sound jig you made...nice one.

 

If I may offer a little advice on how to achieve the look of your chosen header colour...I have done that same colour several times...and have a good method.

1...prime the pipes in matt white...wait 20 minutes then.....

2...'Mist' coat them in 'Flat Aluminium'...keep it nice and light by spraying from about 12 inches away...the idea being to let the white just barely show through the ali...because the white is not fully dry it will bleed into the ali...then leave over night to dry.

3...Mist coat some matt sealer...a couple of very light coats will do it...then leave to dry for 24 hours...after which you can paint in the band detail etc. ...which will appear extra shiny next to the pipes...as it is in your ref pic.

 

Ron

[JCH]

Ron - I love it!  I will definitely be using your method, thanks!!

13 hours ago, silver911 said:

1...prime the pipes in matt white...wait 20 minutes then.....

2...'Mist' coat them in 'Flat Aluminium'

I'm assuming solvent based paints?  I"m thinking flat acrylic will be cured in 20 minutes and not react with the aluminium.    

JCH

P.S. If Codger likes it you are on to something.

Edited May 1, 2020 by JCH

[silver911]

No mate...ordinary acrylic rattle can matt white...believe me...it won't be fully dry in 20 minutes...and acrylic flat ali (Vallejo for example)...will then reawaken the matt white so to speak...allowing them to bleed together.

 

Mr C (Codger) is a bit of a fan of my techniques lol

 

Ron

[JCH]

3 minutes ago, silver911 said:

No mate...ordinary acrylic rattle can matt white

Ron - Copy that!  I'm on it.  I've got a fair bit of prep work remaining (and I'm really slow), but I will definitely let you know how it looks.

[JCH]

Sanding, fitting, and weld lines are complete on the left bank (ha ha).  I cemented the back 3 and then the front 3.   

 

Rear bank of 3 pipes.  Note how nicely they line up with one another. 

 

Front set of 3, also note the alignment.

 

Unfortunately the alignment between the front and rear is not so good.  Looks the same on the engine block.

 

Check out the pipe closest to the collector.  I could force that pipe into place, but that would result in tension for the life of the model.  I'm working on a shim for that pipe. If that doesn't look good, I'll be carefully removing that pipe and refitting  .  Not the end of the world but I was hoping for a smooth fit with no rework.  

 

I'll be changing the order of cementing for the right side header.  I'm thinking of dry fitting the pipe with that connects to the collector for the front and rear pipes.  Then cementing the remaining pipes to the collector pipes.  The hope is that all 6 pipes remain in line.  The issue with the method, or any for that matter, there is a fair bit of play at the collector.  That and these buggers are difficult to keep steady during assembly.  

 

“The ability to generate activities by yourself for yourself, that is a real asset,” said Anders Ericsson, a professor of psychology at Florida State University.  Quote from the NY Times.  I'm well generated.  

[harveyb258]

Exhausts are notoriously difficult to get spot on, unfortunately. Slightly vague connections and the need for 3 pairs of hands being the main culprits.

A bit of gentle manipulation with the aid of a hair-dryer should quickly sort out that errant pipe.

[JCH]

 

16 minutes ago, harveyb258 said:

A bit of gentle manipulation with the aid of a hair-dryer should quickly sort out that errant pipe.

I considered the hair-dryer but dismissed what with the diameter of the pipe.  Time to reconsider!  I'll give that a go, thanks!!!

[JCH]

Harvey - THANK YOU!!!  As expected it took several tries but no breakage and a MUCH improved fit.  Turns out the tolerance on my jig is much higher (a good thing) than the engine block.  Once it fit better on the jig it was more than acceptable on the block.  A win, thanks!

Edited May 3, 2020 by JCH

[harveyb258]

I'm glad you had success, matey.

[JCH]

A couple updates today.  One good and one not horrible but definitely annoying. 

 

While working on the dry fitting the exhaust header to the block and the floor...

 

I noticed this on pipe #6:

I can only surmise that the end broke free due to a modeling irregularity.  I've never seen this before.  I've puttied it and am letting cure before sanding.  I guess I should be happy it let go prior to paint.  I wonder if the heating from the hair dryer brought on this defect?  Very strange!

 

 

The good new is that I like Zero paints!  At least the Pure Brilliant White.  While it's taking several coats, and likely another one or two, it's going on "like butter"!  This is my first use and I could not be happier.  I was fearful of the fumes but with proper room ventilation they were minimal.  Very happy!

 

JCH

Edited May 6, 2020 by JCH

[silver911]

Nice job mate...and yes...'Zero' are superb paints...go through the airbrush supremely well...and...unlike other brands...they are very forgiving when handling.

 

Ron

[JCH]

Hi all,

 

Work on the headers continues.  All pipes are now fitted and cemented to the collectors.  Tamiya provides a cross-member jig that's screwed to the engine block for exhaust placement.  Again, thank you Tamiya.  The jig ensures the pipes will exit the floor with proper alignment.  As you can see the right collector will require ample putty.  Do you like my janky styrofoam jig?  It works!

 

 The right and left headers fully assembled.  The left has been primed.  The right requires additional putty and sanding. 

 

The left header.  Super happy with the result. 

 

Thanks all for the comment, encouragement, and assistance.  I'm not sure about the rest of you, but I relish the opportunity posting updates.  The wife thanks you too.  Were it not for this site I may be seeking divorce council.  

 

JCH

[harveyb258]

12 hours ago, JCH said:

The left header.  Super happy with the resul

And so you should be.....lovely job. A most worthy update.

[JCH]

On another thread @Mr Mansfield suggested the use of Dettol Multi-Purpose Kitchen cleaner as an effective tool for the removal of chrome.  As I'm in the States Dettol is not available.  Fortunately Lysol All Purpose cleaner is made by the same company.  

 

 

Added a couple test "parts" (cuttings from a spur) into the undiluted solution.

 

I let it soak for 30-45 minutes and...

 

Clean as a whistle.  

Edited May 15, 2020 by JCH

[Mr Mansfield]

Nice to see I it worked well on your test pieces. Always nice to feel helpful 

[JCH]

@silver911 what do you think? 

 

Primed...

 

After white, dull aluminum, and this morning's dull coat...

 

Still a bit shiny.  I'll tone it down with weathering but I'm pleased!  Thoughts?  Honestly welcomed, I'm looking for my best work.  Thanks sliver and thanks for looking!

 

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by JCH

[Mr Mansfield]

Exhausts look good to me. I did a quick image search & there's more pictures of models that the actual car!

[JCH]

33 minutes ago, Mr Mansfield said:

more pictures of models that the actual car!

You are absolutely right.  And some are so good it's hard to tell if its the car or a model.  What with the Top Studio detail kit, which is one thing that attracted me, Senna, and McLaren combined to make this a popular build.  There are some very high standards with this project.

These are my primary reference.  The MP4/4 are solely used for reference that I simply can't get from the top two.  Joe Honda's the man! 

 

[Mr Mansfield]

Now that's got to be the most comprehensive set of reference pics you can possibly get

[silver911]

21 hours ago, JCH said:

@silver911 what do you think? 

 

Primed...

 

After white, dull aluminum, and this morning's dull coat...

 

Still a bit shiny.  I'll tone it down with weathering but I'm pleased!  Thoughts?  Honestly welcomed, I'm looking for my best work.  Thanks sliver and thanks for looking!

 

 

If you think it's too silver/shiny...then just give it a very light mist coat of white...keep it at arms length from the rattle can when misting...and move the can quite rapidly to avoid build up...subtle is what your after.

 

Ron

[JCH]

Now that the exhaust headers are assembled, sans weathering, I'm back to hoses (which got me to the headers).  As this is one of my first builds with this level of detail, I'm a bit at a loss regarding hose fittings.  With an OOB build the fitting mount on the Tamiya models are sturdy enough to take some abuse.  And if the hose came off, it's simple enough to refit.   Others have provided best practice regarding painting, thanks. 

 

These after market resin fittings are extremely fragile.  Is there guidance regarding application?  It seems there are a couple methods both of which include drilling needed holes and dry fitting for placement and length to start.  But then it gets messy:

1. Fully assemble the hose/fitting and secure to the model
   • Risk knocking off hose and/or fitting
   • Waiting until a final assembly point (and not forgetting!!)
   • Results in the best looking hose/fitting 
2. Secure the fitting only
   • Risk knocking off the delicate fitting
   • Misalignment
   • Then securely and neatly cementing the hose to the fitting
3. Pick #1 or #2 above depending on the situation

@Codger you posted recently one of the things you like so much about this hobby is problem solving.  I fully agree!  Never hurts ask for help.

 

JCH