Jump to content

Tamiya McLaren MP4/6 1/12


JCH

Recommended Posts

Anyone who's completed the Tamiya MP4/6 with the Top Studio brake/wheel assembly,

 

I'm feeling pretty stupid but I can't figure out how the Top Studio brake rotor/wheel hub SECURELY attaches to the knuckle.  It appears to me my only option is to glue the rotor to the knuckle.  Roy, I don't think you got this far, but if you have any suggestion, I'm all ears.  

 

The stock Tamiya model has a 6 mm screw holding the knuckle to the rotor and subsequently the rim/tire.  The 6 mm screw is replaced by the Top Studio wheel post.  All my previous Tamiya kits enabled spinning tires (not that I've ever rolled one across the floor!).  

 

The wheel post (copper) is set to the correct depth on the rotor and oriented how it fits to the knuckle (black and left of the rotor).  There's nothing to attach the wheel post into the knuckle.  The post doesn't even seat into Tamiya part A23.  The brake caliper will hold the rotor in place somewhat but certainly not enough to then support the rim and tire.  HELP!!!

 

20200413_165428

 

Here's the Tamiya and Top Studio instructions.  

 

20200413_165235

 

While I await an epiphany or helpful response, I'll be painting and applying the carbon fiber decal to the brake duct.  

 

Feeling stupid in PA,

JCH

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All,

 

Sigh... The good news, I've resolved the problem.  The bad news, user error. 

 

If you look closely, which clearly I did not, at the Tamiya instruction I had questioned the need for parts A23 and A17.  It turns out they are both required, sans the screw in the knuckle and bolt in the brake rotor.  When cemented (A23/A17) and placed into the knuckle, the Top Studio wheel post fits snugly into A23!  The wheel will spin and the rim/tire assembly will be securely mounted.  

 

I was dubious that Top Studio would have such a glaring omission.  As noted, the flaw was not Top Studio but the knucklehead holding the knife.

 

JCH

  • Haha 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have photo etch roller so I was, yet again, at a loss as to how to add smooth curvature to the faring on the brake duct.  After a bit of trial and error on some scrap I came to this method.  Place the piece fully under the plate, slide the razor under, and bend slightly (not much more than the blade edge).  Move in one direction extending the piece .25 mm or less.  Rinse and repeat until reaching the desired radius.  The bend requires a 90 degree finish, so as I moved closer to the end of the piece, I decreased the extension between bends and increased the size of the bend.  This was time consuming.  

 

20200414_165328

 

Slowly working out resulted in (mostly) smooth, clean curve.  

20200414_165659

 

I still have some fiddling to match the faring angle with the duct, but the method was successful.  

 

JCH

P.S. I LOVE this tool.  It's a treat to use.  Be mindful as the machining of the tool are VERY sharp!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a great tool indeed, I ordered it in the USA years ago; glad for you to have it available around the corner. 

 

After having purchased this one, I also got myself a 'bug', the smaller version. Use that more often. 

 

If you want to get a curvature to your photo etch, try simply rolling it with something smoothly round (e.g. handle of a brush or knife) while the part is on a hard flat surface (so for example, not a cutting mat because that's too soft). You'll notice that soon enough a curve will be shaped. Narrow your 'rolling device' diameter to get steeper curves. Once you're almost there, use that same rolling device as a 'mould' to press the PE against (using your fingers). 

 

To ease the brass into shaping exactly how you like it to become, anneal it first. That softens the brass considerably. Annealing is very simple: heat it up by using a lighter or so, until it changes colour. You'll have these parts rolled to the exact shape you desire in no time. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said:

try simply rolling it with something smoothly round

Roy - I must not have been patient as I tried this technique first expecting the part to act as you describe without success.  I shall persist with some scrap.  I will also test annealing the brass for final fit.  

 

Thanks,

JCH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What PE bender do you use there? It looks really good and is likely large enough for the huge PE-parts I'll face with my F40.

Your result is very good in my book.

 

When I draw sheetmetal parts at work that have curved surfaces they are usually produced exactly like you did. Just with larger steps. So your method is absolutely valid. Though a Panelmaker would smooth everything out of course. I wonder - is there something like a miniature english wheel for those uses? Probably something I'd expect as jewelmakers tools. I'll fire up google 😄

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

What PE bender do you use there?

https://thesmallshop.com/collections/photo-etch-bending-tools

 

This model is 5" (12.7 cm) in length, so it'll work for long stock.  They have smaller sizes, at less cost.  I have some long bends in my near future with the braces on the radiator pods.  This thing sits securely on my workspace and the PE is held, without damage, solid as a rock.  I love good tools and this one is the boom!  The machining is sharp as hell.

 

18 hours ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

When I draw sheetmetal parts at work that have curved surfaces they are usually produced exactly like you did.

Thanks!  I was pleased with this method, albeit time consuming.  I will be procuring, tool acquisition is clearly apart of this hobby, The Small Shop's rolling tool.  I don't expect any further curved bends with this build so I've held off.  

 

JCH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if the team mechanics disliked the design of the cowling surrounding the rear suspension as much as me?  As noted by Roy and other builders, you've got to address these parts when assembling the rear suspension as the only means of their removal is by disassembling the rear suspension!  So to assemble the rear suspension, these parts need to be completely painted.  To get the best match, that means painting with the upper cowling, and the front cowling, and the radiator duct pods.  I know, whoa is me.

 

Therefore, while working on the rear brakes, I've also been preparing the cowling for paint.  Underside of the cowing is painted in matt black and fully masked.  After the upper is painted I'll go back with the foil and carbon fiber decal on the under side.  The upper side now has 3 coats of Tamiya Fine primer.  I've got a couple hairs (six cats) to remove and touch up and likely some wet sanding.  I'll then lay down Zero White, mask, and follow with Zero "Red". 

 

The offending part:

20200418_141043 20200418_132457

 

Sigh... looking at the first picture I can see a shadow of the remnant of the molding line removal.  I would say that will need to be addressed.  I'm going to let this primer coat set up for a day or so.   Two steps forward, one step back.  I don't know how you guys that build these for commission survive.  I don't think I could part with this upon completion and I would have been working for $1 per hour!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While waiting for the cowling to cure I was back to the wheel/brake assembly.  A fair bit of time spent on carbon fiber decals these last couple days what with lots of curves.   

 

20200418_162613

 

Brake ducts are only dry fitted.  Final cementing will be after the rear suspension is set.  Per the earlier discussion regarding the safety cables on the wheel assembly:  I did not remove/replace the larger gauge wire.  I'm thinking the display will have a front tire/rim removed.  The front wheel hubs have the smaller gauge wire.  These rear wheels, and all this glorious detail, will be covered.  

20200418_170124

 

Next are the upper and lower suspension arms for the rear suspension.  Then suspension assembly.  After those stupid cowling panels base coated and glossed.  

 

I read in another post, and find this very true, that by the time you get to the final assemblies in a model you are ready to done.  By working the cowling this early in the build I'm "fresher" and more willing to spend the time to get it right.  

 

Thanks for looking,

JCH

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2020 at 4:01 PM, JCH said:

https://thesmallshop.com/collections/photo-etch-bending-tools

 

This model is 5" (12.7 cm) in length, so it'll work for long stock.  They have smaller sizes, at less cost.  I have some long bends in my near future with the braces on the radiator pods.  This thing sits securely on my workspace and the PE is held, without damage, solid as a rock.  I love good tools and this one is the boom!  The machining is sharp as hell.

 

When trying to find a local dealer I stumbled over the fact that it looks like a direct copy of the larger SMER bender which always put me off because of its price. Well, I don't care. Found a supplier here in Germany who even has this exact one in stock while it is out of stock at the small shop :D Saves me a huge amount on shipping, too, so I'm quite happy. I also tend to spend quite a lot of money to get me the right tools. For a long while I've been looking at the large trumpeter PE bender. But something always put me off. This one is obviously way sharper with lots of nooks and pins to bend stuff over and even larger. More expensive, but I don't care - I'm sure this one is the one to keep. Thanks again for the link!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm to the point of being content with removal of the molding line on the cowling.

 

The starting point... After spending time with the hair dryer getting the cowling to sit squarely, dry fitting to the floor, tub, and engine block.  

20191003_165403

 

In removing the molding line, I did a bit more damage than desired which required spot coverage with Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer and sanding.

20191031_151007

 

 

After the 3 coats of Tamiya Color Gray Surface Primer L and disappointment.  Note the shadow rear section of the side pod:

20200419_141050

 

After multiple session of sanding and additional coats of primer.  I'll likely do some wet sanding with 2000 grit over the entire cowling to clean things up and then Zero white. 

20200420_115127

 

Wish me luck with the Zero paints.  This is my first use of Zero, or any solvent based paint, with my airbrush.  I'll be setting up my paint station in the garage, with mask, and plenty of ventilation.  I'm open to suggestion regarding airbrush cleaning.  I have acetone and Tamiya lacquer thinner.  My first attempt will be on scrap and NOT this cowling!

 

While mulling over the above paint process, and letting the cowling primer cure another day or so, I'm working on engine detailing.  Primarily the oil reservoir atop the engine:

20200419_152218

 

Thanks for looking,

JCH

Edited by JCH
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What am I doing wrong with the Vallejo paint?!?!  Compressor is running at 20 PSI (pounds per square inch).

  • Left spoon: Vallejo Aluminium 77.701 - splotchy as hell!
  • Center spoon: Tamiya primer + Vallejo Aluminium 77.701 - Better but still rough and splotchy!
  • Right spoon: Tamiya Silver Leaf TS-30 (un-primed) - Smooth as glass

I don't expect the Vallejo to sheen like the Tamiya.  I do expect to lay down a smooth coat. 

20200420_151744

 

Again, what am I doing wrong,

JCH

Edited by JCH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time spent on fittings.  First pass looked horrible.  Stripped, re-spray gloss aluminium, and then clear blue spray (after a new teflon seal on the airbrush) with the airbrush. 

 

I covered the external braided line with CA glue to make it workable.  I then removed the inner copper and plastic core.  I replace the core with .25" solder and test fitted both ends.

 

Reference: 

20200419_152218

 

20200426_141548

 

20200426_143207

 

Finished product:

20200426_150339

 

This sits between the engine head and the oil repository.  Final placement won't be until the heads are set.  Thanks for looking!

JCH

 

Edited by JCH
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fiddling with fittings... While dry fitting these oil lines I've come to the conclusion I need to dry fit the headers before routing the lines.  While it appears there is ample room behind the headers, certainly does on the real car, better safe than sorry.  Additionally, there are so many bits on the engine heads they are going to be some of the last sub-assemblies added to the engine.  I've been focusing on the underside of the engine, oil and water pumps as well as alternator, but the headers are a must!  Switching gears.   

 

What do you think of my jig?   The block is taped to the "jig" on the underside too.  Yes, it's a glasses case.  Worked in a pinch!

 

20200427_103219

 

JCH

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, silver911 said:

This may help you for future use...best colour match I have ever found for A&N fittings.....

 

https://www.hiroboy.com/AN_Fitting_Hose_JointsEnds_Clear_Red_and_Blue_Paints_2x30ml--product--10989.html

 

Ron

Wow-a terrific match. Might be difficult to spray such tiny amounts, even if you do all the fittings of one color at once. ? Red looks good for inside of clear tail lamps too - very rich.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started work on the headers.  I was very pleasantly surprised Tamiya stamped the part number ON the part!  12 cylinder engine means a complicated header.  Having the part number directly on the part helps immensely.  The collectors even have and "L" and "R".  Thank you Tamiya!

 

20200427_131652

 

And now for test fit and sand, rinse, and repeat.  I will say this is an enjoyable part of the build.  

20200427_140334

 

JCH

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...