Tamiya McLaren MP4/6 1/12

[harveyb258]

Nice work, JC.

 

4 hours ago, Roy vd M. said:

great if it finally does. Keep fitting the next day or two as it may try to get in its previous position still.

A small trick that I learnt when building the 1/8 MP4/23 from Deagostini, was when you get the part to fit, heat again, then pop it in the freezer (in a bag) for an hour or so to "set" it.

[JCH]

3 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

then pop it in the freezer (in a bag) for an hour or so to "set" it

Roy - 100% agree.

Harvey - That makes prefect sense.  If/when the beast does recoil I will give this a try.  Is it "learnt" or "learned"?  I honestly don't know the difference.  

[JCH]

Hi All,

 

Wife's kept me very busy.  Work continues during free time. 

 

First time with this carbon fiber decals.  I bought two colors, pewter and gold.  I'm not sure if it was me or the decal but the gold decal just disintegrated!  No matter how gingerly I tried the decal cracked.  I moved onto the air tunnel (different part), pewter decal, and it was MUCH stronger and compliant.  Using Micro Sol/Set the results were very pleasing.  

 

I bought two sheets of the gold and am going to try the 2nd sheet to see if the first sheet is old or this is just how that decal works.  I hope not.  I have some parts I wish to use in that color with substantial contour.  If it is just this brittle I'll take all suggestion when working with this decal as multiple attempts have failed.  

 

 

Roy - The darn cowling did pull back, but just a bit.  Another 30 minutes or so of gentle, sometimes not so gentle, persuasion it's in good shape.  I also had to work the floor.

 

While removing the molding line I sanded a bit too aggressively.  A bit of Tamiya primer, drying, and more sanding (this time being more careful).  It's not where I want it yet but close.  I have dry fitted the rear end and am confident of the fit on the cowling over the air tunnel and rear suspension covers.  Between fits of anger on the gold carbon decals I'm also now working on top end of the engine.  More pics to follow.

 

[JCH]

Ok, so I think I got a bad sheet of carbon fiber decal.  I bought 2 sheets of gold and one simply cracks with ANY tension and does not react to the Micro Sol/Set solution.  2nd sheet, same manufacturer, while still a bit brittle, does react with Micro Sol/Set and so therefore is usable.  I have requested a refund (or store credit) from the seller. 

 

As you can see from the picture this decal is unusable.  The 30 year old decals on my Renault RE20 behaved the same.  I had to purchase new aftermarket decals.  Again, the other 3 sheets from the same manufacturer, while fiddly, DON'T crack with the slightest touch. 

 

[JCH]

The good news: The seller sent me a replacement sheet of the carbon fiber decal.

 

The bad news: The Tamiya TS-36 Florescent Red (Marlboro red) is "not in production at this time".  I've found sellers in the UK, France, and Italy but shipping alone is $20!  I'm not in any hurry so I'll see if my local shop gets some in the next few months.   

 

[JCH]

Air funnel has turned out well.  Once I used a good sheet of carbon fiber decals.  I'm not sure I like the color but this does fit with a number of reference photos.  It definitely looks better fully constructed.  The wife lamented that all the work is covered by the funnel.  I told her for display the model will like be partially dismantled.  

 

 

 

 

[JCH]

All,

 

Work continues, albeit slowly.  Wife wanted the hot tub running for the winter.  It is and is glorious.  

 

Rear dampers are installed along with the torsion bar linkage.  Oh my was that linkage fiddly!  I went with the Titanium Silver on the torsion bar linkage.  Early reference pictures were silver in color whereas later pictures, museum car, are gloss black.  Brackets were consistently gloss black.  Looking at these pictures I may remove the lower section of the damper and weather  A bit too shiny for my tastes.  I'm leaving the heads off until the suspension is complete.  The detail on those heads is far to fragile to withstand that assembly.  

 

Completion of the rear suspension requires the placement of the cowling elements on either side of the gear box which are fluorescent red.  Which presents an issue.  Currently Tamiya TS-36 Fluorescent Red is "not in production" and is not available here in the States.  As that color is the single most recognizable element of the car I am hesitant on using a substitute.  As this is a popular car/model and I would be open to suggestion for a substitute from the community.  I could, and may have to, order oversees but that is very expensive.  Suggestion? 

 

 

 

 

 

[xffw45343tg]

I'm pretty sure there is a set of Zero paints in the McLaren colours. UK dealer is Hiroboy but there may be a US one too.

[Frah2o]

1 hour ago, Kirk said:

I'm pretty sure there is a set of Zero paints in the McLaren colours. UK dealer is Hiroboy but there may be a US one too.

As Kirk said, a valid substitute is the Zero paint

 

[Frah2o]

Another alternative used by a friends (thats tell me that Ts and zero are darker and dull color) is the Gunze/ Mr. Hobby Color 171.

 

This very light and fluo effect

 

[JCH]

Thank you for the suggestions!  The US distributor for Zero is "back ordered".  None of the shippers allow transport from Europe.  Hobby/Mr. Color is available on eBay!  Any suggestion regarding priming when using Mr. Hobby? 

 

I wonder how the wife would feel about moving to the EU to support my modeling jones?  Getting product to the US is painful.  

 

JCH

[JCH]

This from HiroBoy in the UK.  The search continues.  

 

 

[JCH]

Persistence is a key to success.

 

I called Hobbyworld-USA.  They don't have 60 ml but they do have 30's!  He's going to list on the web site this afternoon and I'll be ordering. 

[Alan R]

Hi JCH,

I just saw yesterday, that Scale Motor Sport are stocking Zero Paints. May be a bit cheaper to get from them?

 

Cheers, Alan.

[JCH]

3 hours ago, Alan R said:

Scale Motor Sport are stocking Zero Paints

Alan - Thanks!  Looks like Scale Motor Sport (https://scalemotorsport.com/collections/zero-paints-1) are only stocking two sets at this time.  Bookmarked and account created as I'm hoping they stock more.

 

In speaking with HobbyWorld-USA, they said they would be listing some 30ml ZP-1066 soon.  They also indicated "the factory" is on holiday until after the new year.  They are expecting 60ml in mid-January.  

 

Part of the fun of this hobby is searching and waiting.  Thanks again!

 

JCH

Edited December 18, 2019 by JCH

[JCH]

Zero and Mr Hobby paints successfully sorted.  I'll be doing some test painting to get the feel for each and then make the decision.  I primarily use acrylics so this will require some practice.  Both in application and airbrush cleaning.  

 

I received some HobbyZone organizers, specifically requested, for Christmas.  I'm very pleased.  They assemble easily with excellent fit and finish.  

 

 

 

 

I've started with a small number of kits (6).  As they have in fact organized my work-space, by increasing open/un-cluttered area, I will be adding additional lower storage units.  I was disappointed with the unit I had hoped to store Tamiya spray cans.  That unit is too small for that purpose but it does hold several other oddly shaped items.  The magnets hold the units together effectively.  This also allows the units to be swapped around easily as I'm not sure of the final arrangement.  Again, I'm very pleased.  

 

The Tamiya magnifying visor was also a holiday gift.  Another addition for which I'm pleased.  Well mostly pleased, they revealed detail which will require further attention.    

 

Happy New Year to all,

JCH

Edited December 30, 2019 by JCH

[JCH]

Hi all... Hope everyone is hunkered down, staying home, and working on models!  I like this forum for the educational benefits of seeing other's work and technique, and applying for my own use.  Therefore when I do something that works, or at least I think it does, I feel compelled sharing.  

 

My goal here was to replicate the safety cables that secure the wheel hub bolts.  The basis of this assembly is Top Studio TD 23154 (beautiful on its own right).  Reference:

 

I tried a number of pre-wound wires but nothing looked to scale.  I then tried spinning my own just with my fingers and while I could get a "part" that was the correct size, it wasn't spun tightly enough to look to scale.  My lovey wife suggested a technique that took the following form:

I'm using one thread of speaker wire (aluminum I believe).  I started with 3, then two, but the best look was one.  Once spun, I'd use a safety pin to create a loop on the far end.  I'd then un-wind the copper wire from the nail post and slip the gray wire off.  Once off the copper wire, I'd trim the exccess wire.  One of the trimmed ends was cut as close to the spun wire as possible.  The other longer as the loop.  I've made at least 3 more than necessary as I dropped them and could not find!!! 

 

After a considerable amount of fiddling this:

 

The technique is proven, now its time for the remaining 3 hubs.  Whichever wheel looks the best will be the one that in the final display will have to tire removed.  This was too much effort to cover entirely!

 

JCH

 

P.S. Further painting/weathering remains. 

Edited April 8, 2020 by JCH

[Roy vd M.]

Hi JCH,

 

In itself that looks great, but hopefully you will accept my honest opinion that the solution looks (way) oversized to me. 

 

I'm not sure what size of wire you used. Speaker wire is often 0,1mm. If that's the case, if it were my model I'd leave well enough alone and would represent the wiring by using single wires. Of course there is the other approach: scale modelling is never going to be a perfect representation and some detail can be emphasized. As you may have guessed, I'm a supporter of the 'scale down' approach. In the end it's your model, so your call.

 

By the way, these details will be fully out of sight once you have mounted the wheels. Are you planning on showcasing the wheels detached?

 

Good luck in choosing and in continuing this great model. 

[Codger]

Very hard to criticize such great work but I have to agree with Roy on the wire twist.

Here is what .032" wire looks like 1:1.

In 1/12 it would be .002", and sadly unseen after build. But you'll know it's right...

[silver911]

If I may offer this 'trick' for producing twisted cables...put a single nail in a piece of wood (as you have done)...take a single strand...bend it around the nail...pinch the now two open ends in a Dremel chuck...set the drill to its lowest speed and place your finger against the chuck so that it will only turn very slowly...with a plaster on your finger to protect it from heat...and switch the Dremel on...as it slowly turns it will twist the cables together for you...just be sure to keep the tension...or it will knot itself up.

This method will produce much tighter...more even cables than you will ever get by hand...and can be used with many different thicknesses of wire.

In this instance...5 amp fuse wire will give you a twisted cable more than half the thickness you now have...and...dare I say it...will 'look' right.

 

Ron

Edited April 8, 2020 by silver911
added text

[Codger]

14 minutes ago, silver911 said:

...set the drill to its lowest speed and place your finger against the chuck so that it will only turn very slowly...with a plaster on your finger to protect it from heat...and switch the Dremel on...

 

Oh oh ! The safety Police will be knocking at your door soon.

But this is a superb idea, with experienced results....

[JCH]

Roy / Cog - Honest feedback is always welcome.  Frankly I'm flattered and thankful you both took the time responding.  The size of the wire is in fact .16 mm, so your eye didn't deceive. 

 

Ron - I'll try your winding method on the front hubs.  I had considered using the Dremel to wind but was concerned I would be unable to control.  

 

Based on the outcome of the front hubs, I'll decide if I will or will not "fix" the rear hubs.  And yes Roy, I was planning having one wheel off for the display.  May be a on the front!

 

Thanks again!

JCH

[silver911]

2 hours ago, Codger said:

Oh oh ! The safety Police will be knocking at your door soon.

But this is a superb idea, with experienced results....

It indeed comes from experience Mr C...which is why I mentioned the plaster on the finger...although all mini drills with variable speed will safely allow this kind of throttling back.

 

Ron

[silver911]

2 hours ago, JCH said:

Roy / Cog - Honest feedback is always welcome.  Frankly I'm flattered and thankful you both took the time responding.  The size of the wire is in fact .16 mm, so your eye didn't deceive. 

 

Ron - I'll try your winding method on the front hubs.  I had considered using the Dremel to wind but was concerned I would be unable to control.  

 

Based on the outcome of the front hubs, I'll decide if I will or will not "fix" the rear hubs.  And yes Roy, I was planning having one wheel off for the display.  May be a on the front!

 

Thanks again!

JCH

Just remember to put pressure on the chuck before you power it on at it's lowest speed...you effectively become the drills speed controller and...yes...I do still have all my fingers.....honest guv.

 

A superb build mate.

 

Regards

 

Ron

[JCH]

R & R,

 

When you are right you are right.  I found some finer wire and fiddled doing Ron's method.  The photo below is only dry fitted, but damned if it doesn't look better.