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Old, new Starfighter Matchbox PK-28


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I am a fan of models belonging to the vintage category, i.e. old models released until the end of the 1980s (the limit date is 1989).  I also like to renew models and I love the Lockheed F-104 Starfighter plane.  I decided to renew and modernize the F-104 model from the Matchbox set with the catalog number PK-28, which I bought as model scrap at one of the auction sites.

 

A112-AFA2-D1-C4-47-F2-AB9-A-B13480-D0130
52-BD723-C-ECFA-475-B-8553-E2027-F8-BE58
7-FB05-FC5-8-A4-C-4-EEE-ACC1-4-C418-CA6-
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89-A58937-64-AE-40-C7-8-CEE-1-CEACB9-D18
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I started working on the model by putting it together and removing old paint.  I used a caustic soda solution for this.  I removed paint residue with a toothbrush and fine grain sandpaper.

 

C826-DCE5-29-A1-4-AB7-8169-AFC1-F619-AC6
321-E2-D48-872-E-473-B-B1-C9-5-ADFD789-D
DBD05-F44-8-DB0-43-FE-80-AA-401-CA486254
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In accordance with my work plan on this historic model, I cut a hole for the front landing gear hatch and widened the pilot's cabin opening.

 

C4-A6-A1-DC-1-A86-4883-86-CB-76-E07811-C
2-EAA7-DCD-A660-4-EC8-9855-F35-C9-D0743-
967767-DC-A44-A-4934-A90-D-A2-CEADC3-F72

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I began working on the cockpit by reworking the original armchair, which was in no way similar to the armchair used on a real plane.  As a model, I used the Martin Baker GQ-7A chair.  These seats were used on German and Italian F-104G / S.

 

3-B47-A464-5972-4-ADA-8-D77-871836262-E0

E906-A5-C5-BF57-47-D4-9556-FB4-B3-A6-EB5
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C57-B9069-C28-A-4-CBA-9268-54-C5-EFFF22-
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511851-E0-137-F-4-D02-BC36-1193-A516-FE5
079-CE9-FB-E86-C-4949-9-A37-6966157-C5-A
740-F51-DB-8-DE3-45-D5-8-BDF-03-F3551-B3
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51800433-3288-4-BAD-861-D-A1-D6-A7-E2769
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CD1-ED3-B7-834-E-47-BD-95-E9-32-CB4-BD63
9-E177728-866-A-4377-A15-F-EB5-C2-F4-EDC

 

Another work on the instrument panel.  I have added some small ones on the board and it will be glued together so that the whole cockpit is ready.

 

46-B98-E8-E-7-B9-F-4-F63-8-B70-BDA63-A21
A8265-F2-E-910-E-48-D1-B688-A66-BAC21-CA

 

Friday evening was spent installing the floor and the rear wall of the cockpit.  The whole looks very strict and requires refinement, but with the instrument panel and armchair the cockpit should look much better.

 

7095-AAB7-DA20-4241-B2-BC-9-A5-C7-A6-B95
D0-AC996-A-03-AF-4530-B8-B8-B1056-AB9-DA
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7-C0-A625-D-C1-FA-47-E3-9-C0-C-03808-E1-
01-DCFCE2-073-D-41-C1-897-D-FAE7-F16-FF1

 

Work on 104 is still ongoing and focused on the cockpit.  The side panels have been angled correctly for the real machine.  Now I will drill holes for the throttle lever and the joystick

 

57098-F58-7965-42-D0-8-C3-A-BD3018933155
49-D245-F2-3-A27-4526-BE79-C3-B8-BE4-F01
6-DE01727-B42-F-48-FF-89-DA-5-A7995-FDE0
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BE28-A535-345-F-4025-8-E93-50-CDBE8403-A
130-B325-E-BEBA-4-A1-C-8-A0-D-543-FEE5-B
708-F4-B4-D-C5-F4-40-B3-9982-2410-E02-EC
83-DB6-DF7-77-C8-4-F9-E-BB25-ED250449-FE

Edited by Marcin Wojciechowski
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This is right up my street, a great idea to stop a model heading off to landfill: "green" modelling! look forward to seeing how you get on with it. What's your plan regarding the paint scheme?

Jack

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4 minutes ago, P.1127 said:

This is right up my street, a great idea to stop a model heading off to landfill: "green" modelling! look forward to seeing how you get on with it. What's your plan regarding the paint scheme?

Jack

I will probably choose the painting scheme of the German Vikings show team, which in the 80s performed a turn around the USA and Canada.

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Awesome, great to see someone with a similar mission to mine... Currently I am dissassemblying and cleaning a number of models built whem my skills were not all that good. I usually use break fluid to remove the paint, as it also desolves the glue joints.

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26 minutes ago, Rizon said:

Awesome, great to see someone with a similar mission to mine... Currently I am dissassemblying and cleaning a number of models built whem my skills were not all that good. I usually use break fluid to remove the paint, as it also desolves the glue joints.

Could you give the name of this paint stripper or include a photo of it?  Is this plate safe for plastic and does not damage its surface?  I use caustic soda dissolved in cold water to remove the paint.

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2 minutes ago, Marcin Wojciechowski said:

Could you give the name of this paint stripper or include a photo of it?  Is this plate safe for plastic and does not damage its surface?  I use caustic soda dissolved in cold water to remove the paint.

 

Oven cleaner will strip plastic and attack the glue joints as well, but it will make the plastic brittle, and obviously will cloud clear parts.

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1 hour ago, Marcin Wojciechowski said:

Could you give the name of this paint stripper or include a photo of it?  Is this plate safe for plastic and does not damage its surface?  I use caustic soda dissolved in cold water to remove the paint.

Normal automotive brake fluid, usually the cheapest works best (not synthetic one, that dont work). I prefer brake fluid over other chemicals as it does not smell strongly and is easy to apply and sticks to the surface, as it is oil. Takes a night or so to work on the paint and glue. It also makes the plastic a bit brittle if left for more than 2 days. Clear parts also frost a bit, but is quickly polished out. Of course it is also important to then clean the parts afterwards with detergent to remove the remaining brake fluid.

 

R

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

There's a primal urge and satisfaction from seeing a scratch built cockpit of an old Matchbox kit come to fruition. They're still fine kits and some are the best, if only, in scale still. A real blank slate for any artist to build up. A Matchbox Wellington was the first real attempt at scratch building a cockpit I made. Kit didn't survive but it was great practice.

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Continued work on rebuilding Starfighter.  Part of the hull glued together, the cockpit needs to be supplemented with a throttle lever and a box recording flight parameters behind the seat.  The instrument panel is now in place.  This weekend I plan to paint a reclining chair.  On the main chassis covers, I made Bulip plastic bulge for larger chassis wheels.  It still requires polishing.

4-ED56492-4629-4-E63-8825-D3-AABA59792-D
8-D55-BA88-4160-4-B7-F-9-F5-B-0-DE7-D4-A
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847-F948-D-EF5-E-4-BFE-86-D0-2-D95-D07-C
20-D00188-6-E2-A-4820-ABA5-52360-BC00-E9
D7-C1072-A-D9-F0-4-D74-8-C46-5872-D16923
9-AF8-B8-CA-66-EB-4165-8800-E68-F40-C4-B
C07-F299-B-407-C-4185-AE3-C-11-A10-F260-
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384-A8-BC1-0-F06-476-E-AB6-E-E3-D5-ADD25
4295-D80-F-1-DF3-4-E32-9029-EC33373-C78-

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Hi Marcin.  

Thanks for alerting me to this build (via your comments in my old Eiko thread).  It's very satisfying to see an old kit being brought back to life in this way.  

Where did the new canopy come from?

Cheers

Cliff

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4 hours ago, CliffB said:

Hi Marcin.  

Thanks for alerting me to this build (via your comments in my old Eiko thread).  It's very satisfying to see an old kit being brought back to life in this way.  

Where did the new canopy come from?

Cheers

Cliff

The new cabin cover is pressed by myself using the vacuum method.  I used VIVAK for pressing it.

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