Major decaling mishap caused by Alclad 2 Klear Kote Gloss

[Richard502]

Here I was happily decaling an Gaspatch Hs 123, and  sealed it with a coat of Alclad 2 Klear Kote (a thin layer). As usual, the Klear Kote would not dry, two weeks after application it was still slightly sticky to the touch, leaving no fingerprints though. So i put the model on its back and glued on the bombs. Then I stupidly left it that way for a day. When I turned it back onto it's wheels the Klear Kote had stuck to the workbench, ripping off the upper wing Balkenkreuz decals. Now I have to

1) Toss the offending bottle of Klear Kote Gloss (done)

2) Buy/beg/steal a new set of Balkenkreuz decals (the are decal No. 02 for the Menapace paint scheme in the Gaspatch B1 version, IF you have got them are are willing to sell them) 

3) Remove the remnants of the old ones, and here is question No. 1: How? The paint is Xtracolor enamel that was not damaged by the sticking-episode, and I would rather not sand the decals off. Should I try to dissolve the decal glue with hot water, or try to rip them off with sticky tape?

Question No.2: bottles of Xtracolor Satin and Flat varnish on my shelf are an opaque, deep amber color. It that how it's suppused to be or are these bottles gone?

TIA, Richard

[stevehnz]

If the enamel is well cured, sticky tape shouldn't pull it off, I have used this method in the past with no hassles. Those varnishes sound a bit dodgy to me, if you haven't seen it before, have a read of this.

 

It really does work so well for decals, have a look at @bigbadbadge's Shark build in the Frog GB for a recent testimonial. Liquitex acrylic varnishes are non yellowing I believe, they're what I use.

Steve.

[bigbadbadge]

I have used Steve's method and I am very impressed, I use Humbrol enamels and Johnsons Klear, you only need one coat to cover the paint, soak the decals in the normal way and coat the decal area with the 60/40 mix of Klear to water and then apply the decal on the wet surface. There's a bit of time to manoeuvre the decal if need and then it is pressed into place with some kitchen towel and then coated soon after with another Klear coat and this has worked a treat. I was impressed with how quickly I could decal a model. 

 

I hope you get it sorted out.

All the best

Chris

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

7 hours ago, Richard502 said:

 

Question No.2: bottles of Xtracolor Satin and Flat varnish on my shelf are an opaque, deep amber color. It that how it's suppused to be or are these bottles gone?

TIA, Richard

 

Un-pigmented enamel base is amber in colour. That's all old-fashioned enamel varnishes are.

 

It will apply fairly clear, but may show an amber tint on very light and pale base coats.

 

A question - What are you thinning enamels with?

[Richard502]

Was away on holidays, therefore the late answer.

I am using Xtracolor quick drying thinners on Xtracolor enamels, and MrColor Thinner on WEM/Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats. No thinner with the offending Alclad thinner.

Thank you for the information regarding amber-hued thinners. Good to know the bottles are still ok! 

Richard

P.S.: the clear coat on the Hs123 has cured! Took only 4 weeks.

[Uncle Uncool]

Use Alclad Aqua Gloss and you'll forget about everything, even Future/Klear, etc.

Yeh, you will...

Cheers,

 

Unc²

 

PS: Ask me how I know.