1:72 Hobbyboss AH-1S Cobra

[IronMace1990]

To those who already built the kit, I wanna ask the following before I proceed in building mine. I'm a 1st timer in building military kits

 

1. Do I still need to put fishing sinkers to address the tipping of the kit? If so, how heavy should I put and where?

2. I'm gonna paint it in JGSDF camo pattern. What kind of camo painting techniques should I use?

 

TIA

[Skodadriver]

I think you've posted in the wrong forum mate. This is for modern CIVIL aircraft.

 

I suggest you ask the moderators to move it to the military section.

[Mike]

4 hours ago, Skodadriver said:

I suggest you ask the moderators to move it to the military section.

We did thanks to a report from another member

[JagRigger]

Can't comment on the Japanese camo - but I added weight to mine under the cockpit floor and it sits fine

 

Edited September 4, 2019 by JagRigger

[Rob G]

Re the camo- I'd use hard masks, tape, paper or putty, as you decide. Spray the green all over, mask, spray brown, mask, spray black. Don't forget to mask out the canopy first. Have fun, and remember that it's only a hobby, and you'll never get it perfect.

[CT7567]

Haven't built this particular kit but I can offer some general advice on weighting/balancing (with advance apologies to my Physics instructors for any inaccuracies in terminology):

 

The farther away from the center of gravity (CG) the weight is added, the less actual weight (force of gravity) you need to add to achieve balance.  Basically, the balacing force (torque) is equal to the weight multiplied by the length of the lever arm (distance from CG). 

 

In most models you don't have to be too picky about this, but in subjects where space is limited (e.g. glazed nose WWII bombers) or total weight is critical (resin kits with unreinforced gear) paying attention to where the weight is placed can be just as important as how much to add.

 

The best way to be sure you add enough weight before permanently closing up the fuselage is to temporarily tape together all the major components (including gear legs where applicable). Make sure you add anything large enough to affect balance, such as the rotor in your case. If you're really scientific (or anal-retentive) about it you can use a scale to measure the precise amount of weight needed to achieve equilibrium.

 

As to the JGSDF camouflage, the pattern seems to be "hard edged" so your masking technique probably isn't as important as choosing the sequence of colors that will require the least amount of masking.

 

Since the black areas are essentially small "slivers" compared to the brown and green, it makes sense to paint and mask the black areas first.  Between the green and brown is probably dealer's choice as they cover roughly equal areas - you may decide which to do 2nd based on whichever of the two will be easiest to mask off based on the areas of the airframe they cover.