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CrazyCrank

Talbot Lago Record 1950, 1:24 scale, by Heller

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3 hours ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

these are among the best wires in this scale I've seen yet! 😮 You managed to make them look like they lay down a bit under their own weight while being too stiff to conform to every contour - just like in reality! Brilliant.

I have to agree...very nice indeed. There's a really nice "flow" to them.

If I may be so bold though, mate, I think the wires look waaay too glossy...especially in this small scale. Just my opinion  of course:D

 

Looking forward to your next update.

 

Cheers, H

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1 hour ago, harveyb258 said:

I have to agree...very nice indeed. There's a really nice "flow" to them.

If I may be so bold though, mate, I think the wires look waaay too glossy...especially in this small scale. Just my opinion  of course:D

 

Looking forward to your next update.

 

Cheers, H

Yes Harvey, you're right, I've noticed that too :)

 

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Painted another time the wires, but very difficult to dose correctly the blend with flat red and glossy red, so the result is the same, or approximately 😕

And I have to stop to put paint on them, because they would be too thick !

 

48685688172_545fae10bd_c.jpg   48685514956_c028cfa683_c.jpg

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I don't think they are too glossy. There's loads of insulation types out there, and some are pretty glossy, especially those for rougher environments. But that is of course a matter of taste.

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I'v put a layer of Alcald Kotte semi-mate  and the result looks better:

 

48690455481_ecd74cd8e2_z.jpg   48690116648_730f16b787_z.jpg

 

Now, Step 9 of the building instructions, the firewall:

 

48690470971_21a945465f_z.jpg

 

Of course, according to my reference photos, I've scratched some additions, particularly the fuses box:

 

48685514766_b70b8f7d0a.jpg   48685688107_b7599537de.jpg

 

48685514866_aa5113ebed.jpg

 

After priming:

 

48690116643_5726042a85.jpg  48690455406_aa4b5f8aaf.jpg

 

It remains of course a lot of work to do:

 

1/ First of all, painting satin black the chassis and the firewall: It's already done, but I'm frankly not happy with the result ,because I got a grainy aspect: I think my paint wasn't diluted enough... so, I've to wait for a complete and hard drying (24 hours probably) before wet sanding it in order to get smooth surfaces and then spray a second black layer, this time correctly thinned.

 

48690710237_b5f1f53967.jpg   48690710217_57b633f735.jpg

 

2/ Then, add the cap for the coolant expansion reservoir (the top a headed needle), add the positive and negative battery cables with their clamps

One clamp has been made, starting from a steel stuff :

 

48690574696_5708bb4cce_z.jpg

 

- And paint the wires of the fuses box, red and blue as on the real.

- And paint the caps and the terminals of the battery

- etc.

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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Good afternoon, Chaps :)

 

Well the firewall has been sanded and painted another time, I've added a mounting flange on the coolant expansion reservoir (made with a 0.5 mm wide strip of 0.6 mm thick aluminium sheet), and the cap on this reservoir
I've painted too the battery 
and the wires of the fuses box, and some other details.

 

48693626713_0f52407dda.jpg   48693626748_390bb5ec1d.jpg

 

48693626818_85d4a8fe7e.jpg   48694142352_b765171f4e.jpg

 

48694142332_2e00dee569.jpg   48693626773_b85d65d44b.jpg

 

It remains to glue on the inside of the firewall the pedals, the steering column and add too some details on this side.

 

Meanwhile, I'm working on the terminal clamps and have a problem to solve: I need  0.6 mm diameter electrical wire in 2 colors (black and red), but the thinest I've found in my workshop is 0.85...

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

 

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You could use 0,6mm. (or, given the need for primer and paint: 0,5mm.) of copper wire. It's for sale at your local electronic parts store. 

 

Can be easily primed, after moderate sanding, using lacquer primer (I always use Alclad II Primer & Microfiller + MrColor thinner, for example) should provide for the designated surface for painting in any color you need.

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36 minutes ago, Roy vd M. said:

You could use 0,6mm. (or, given the need for primer and paint: 0,5mm.) of copper wire. It's for sale at your local electronic parts store. 

 

Can be easily primed, after moderate sanding, using lacquer primer (I always use Alclad II Primer & Microfiller + MrColor thinner, for example) should provide for the designated surface for painting in any color you need.

Yes of course, I've already considered this option, BUT, it will be difficult to bend to a convincing shape, that could look closely like flexible battery cables.

 

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You're perfectly cable of doing so, as you proved a few posts ago! :) 

 

An endless amount of dryfitting etc. is in order, agreed, if you want to pursue perfectness. 

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Meanwhile...I've glued the steering column and 3 pedals, and provided a little enhancement to the floor below the driver's and front passenger's feet:

 

Using micro-mesh, I've cut in it an non-slip mat, that I've glued in place, and then painted slightly satin black, then a bit weathered with a toothpick.

 

48694362131_48e09cbdc2.jpg   48694362181_f92f41ff52.jpg[

 

48694021018_9812b8b769_z.jpg   48694362216_577aafbe56_z.jpg

 

48694534112_c11d31c4ab_z.jpg   48694020988_233b1d3b13_z.jpg

 

48694546822_792f5f417e_z.jpg   48694649212_fe0a1aa86c_z.jpg

 

Of course, It's a bit out of scale, but I think it gives a satisfying illusion of the reality, do you ?

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Time to finish off the front axle on the chassis: I've painted with Molotov Liquid Chrome 1 mm, the front suspension springs:

 

48695201213_c34ca47289_z.jpg   48695716637_766c6e4afe_z.jpg

 

48695716642_f1cb7843a0_z.jpg

 

Another time, close-up photos reveal all the imperfection of this details,  but the visual rendering is good:

 

48695810467_c64c83005d_c.jpg

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

 

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Well chaps !

 

I think I've succeeded in making my battery cables.

 

One has been put in place, the black one.  it simulates the ground cable:

 

48698701492_54d216b1b1_z.jpg   48698701577_fd27f3dc5e_z.jpg   48698742357_4e51cd2852_z.jpg

 

The other, painted red, is waiting for the final assembly step of the firewall to be fixed on the battery :

 

48698521336_849ebe81c8_z.jpg   48698701482_e130c4455f_z.jpg

 

Thanks for watching and stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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I think the Positive battery cable could follow this way, a priori:

 

48698275188_a805aa8808.jpg   48698792027_0d683c4a29.jpg

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At this step of my building, engine is made of 37 parts (instead of 17 OOB) and the firewall of 28 parts (instead of 7 OOB)

 

I've positioned and glued the engine and the radiator in place on the chassis, it remains to connect the radiator and the engine with the lower radiator hose, and it will be finished for this stage:

 

48698727631_ce3e065166_c.jpg   48698907007_4debfe649d_c.jpg

 

48698906992_61e67b7126_c.jpg   48698727586_079760a341_c.jpg

 

48698390788_38dce16691_c.jpg   

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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Not a great progress this evening (left my office at 9:30 PM 😯)

 

I've fixed the lower radiator hose and painted the 2 hoses Matt black:

 

48707742701_a2b20c24d8_z.jpg

 

And assembled and primed rear spring leaves , transmission, and rear axle:

 

48707742671_9961d862d1_z.jpg   48707406628_a93ca9944e_z.jpg

 

48707910862_58ab26495e_c.jpg

 

The transmission shaft and gearbox on it require 3 different colors (Matt back, steel, and aluminium), and there will be a lot of masking to do, and weathering of course

 

The spring leaves will be painted steel grey and will be weathered.

I've ordered today some pigments to do that.

 

More about this in the next issue :)

 

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Evening chaps :)

 

A little progress this evening ...

 

Still waiting for my order (Paints, pencils etc...), I've assembled each front seat (2 parts) and then have had a glance on some ref. photos, as this one (This car if the one which Heller took as a model for its kit):

 

48717819273_d373edb3f0_c.jpg

 

And noticed so that the kit's seats weren't very similar....so I risked modifying them in order to be closer to the truth:

 

Hereunder you can see the comparison between the OOB seat and the improved one:

 

48717856003_0afe20537f_c.jpg

 

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

 

48718364592_eaa688ff6b_z.jpg

 

And finally:

 

48717855938_b62061f355_c.jpg

 

As these seat are fold-up seats (to allow rear passengers getting in), I've  planned to get that kind of seat later on (this is a draft, the metal hinge part should be and will be better :) )

 

48717856098_4a30043958_z.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Wow @CrazyCrank..... WOW!

Can't believe what you've achieved with this so far. 

I've got a Heller Delage D8SS in front of me, and I came on here to look for a build or two, for ideas 

So many similarities with this - very much the same era of Heller products. 

You're style of weathering and detailing is real class, and I've seen some great tips and ideas reading through. 

Even the little chrome stripping video was impressive, like magic!! 

So thanks for posting the build. 

I'd like to follow along, see what else I can learn..... 

😎

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Thank you so much @rob Lyttle for this very kind critics 😉

II had never thought I could inspire one day another modeler with my tips and tricks 😎

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Just finished to paint  the 3 parts that compose each spoke wheel

 

If you haven't forgotten, I dechromed all those parts because the OOB chrome was too shiny and frankly unrealistic.

For indeed, if you look at some ref. photos, the spoke wheels of the real car weren't chromed but probably polished aluminum !

Just take a glimpse at the 2 photos below, and compare the color of the spoke wheel and the chromed strip or chromed car headlight ...

 

48723531197_32702465e3_c.jpg   48723022543_df4f8a1a82_c.jpg

 

So, I decided to spray the dechromed spoke wheels with Alclad Chrome (after a first layer of Alclad Gloss Black Base).

I put 2 layers of Chrome and then 2 layers of Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear ALL600 (Thanks to @Roy vd M. :) ); the lats one this evening...

 

The result after 1 layer of Alclad ALC600 varnish is the following, not too bad with natural light, imperfect in the shade, but really rather convincing: 

 

48723581227_3401e2a420_c.jpg   48723406691_aebb30f202_c.jpg   48723073198_dc7257b6a9_c.jpg

 

I've to wait 6 hours for the second varnish layer's complete drying, but I think the  final result won't be catastrophic :)

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

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Its important to use a perfectst smooth black gloss basis and then to airbrush the thinnest of layers of chrome.

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4 minutes ago, Roy vd M. said:

Its important to use a perfectst smooth black gloss basis and then to airbrush the thinnest of layers of chrome.

I intended to do that, not sure I've succeeded 🙄

It was OK for the gloss black base, but for the chrome, I don't master yet the airbrush, pity 😯

 

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Alclad chrome is extremely hard to spray, at least for me. You don't really see any buildup of paint, and if you do, it is already too much. But if you get it right, it is the best chrome painting I've seen yet. But since you're not after a real chrome effect, I don't think all that matters.

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5 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

Just finished to paint  the 3 parts that compose each spoke wheel

 

If you haven't forgotten, I dechromed all those parts because the OOB chrome was too shiny and frankly unrealistic.

For indeed, if you look at some ref. photos, the spoke wheels of the real car weren't chromed but probably polished aluminum !

Just take a glimpse at the 2 photos below, and compare the color of the spoke wheel and the chromed strip or chromed car headlight ...

 

48723531197_32702465e3_c.jpg   48723022543_df4f8a1a82_c.jpg

 

So, I decided to spray the dechromed spoke wheels with Alclad Chrome (after a first layer of Alclad Gloss Black Base).

I put 2 layers of Chrome and then 2 layers of Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear ALL600 (Thanks to @Roy vd M. :) ); the lats one this evening...

 

The result after 1 layer of Alclad ALC600 varnish is the following, not too bad with natural light, imperfect in the shade, but really rather convincing: 

 

48723581227_3401e2a420_c.jpg   48723406691_aebb30f202_c.jpg   48723073198_dc7257b6a9_c.jpg

 

I've to wait 6 hours for the second varnish layer's complete drying, but I think the  final result won't be catastrophic :)

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

Chromed wire wheels are a feature of vehicles whose owners intend only to show them off rather than drive them hard. The process of chroming the spokes weakens the metal, so chromed wire wheels on a high-performance car are dangerous - the spokes are more likely to break under stress. Most wire wheels on high-performance cars usually were painted or stove-enamelled (often a silver colour) to protect the steel spokes.

 

Maurice

 

PS: Alumium is not a good material for spokes; usually steel or stainless steel was/is used. the rims and hubs often could be aluminium because the mass was greater.

 

 

Edited by mdesaxe
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