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CrazyCrank

Talbot Lago Record 1950, 1:24 scale, by Heller

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Very glad your maladies do not impede you from small detail work. I'm hoping the whole project is therapeutic for you.

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Lovely work, Thierry....I like very much indeed.

13 minutes ago, Codger said:

I'm hoping the whole project is therapeutic for you

Ditto!

 

Cheers, H

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Well, the wiring has been done, with 0.3 mm diameter copper wire: That was no fun doing !

 

48637922552_723e929807_z.jpg

 

After painting yellow the wires, and some weathering, I can show you this:

 

48637901587_72dd7dd915.jpg   48637758741_dc8fa2aae6.jpg[

 

48637758761_5882ff2b4e_z.jpg

 

It remains to fabricate 2 oil filler caps for the 2 engine valve's covers

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

PS: don't be surprised neither afraid by the stains on the valve covers. In day light they are less visible, and it is a matter of  weathering, soiling, which is absolutely normal on a old car's engine (We are not at Pebble Beach exhibition !)

 

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Fan painting Alclad Chrome (without varnish, so it look rather like polished aluminum ) and fixed in place

 

48638038628_fa63838ac2.jpg   48638038523_963177c523.jpg

 

Good night all :)

 

 

 

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Great work - really enjoying following your progress with this build and reading about the tweaks and details that you are adding.  I don't see many threads for models from this classic Heller series, which is a pity as the two I have built so far (M-B 500K & Bugatti T50) were nice kits.  Bookmarking this for reference when I build my one!

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Hi chaps

 

A little progress on that build...

 

I've modified the wiring that get out of the flute, and its color, to red, more adequate than yellow, and glued in place on engine's body some very tiny parts, as the distributor/igniter.

 

48652894921_75657f81c2_z.jpg   48652532558_b841d47207_z.jpg

 

I'm thinking about the way to fit on it the six spark plugs wires.

The diameter of the the copper wire I've used for the wires getting out the flute is 0.3 mm.

I should use the same for the distributor wiring..... BUT:

- on one hand, it is rather stiff and is difficult to shape and bend regularly, on a short section (30 mm) 

- on the other hand, it is rather too thick to be glued easily on the distributor (6 wires to glue on six microscopic dots on a 3 mm diameter part....

 

So, it is possible that I decide to use 0.2 mm diameter copper wire, and increase artificially the diameter while painting it.

However, 0.3 or 0.2 mm, it will be necessary, in order to ensure a good bond strength, to drill deeply the six tiny holes at the periphery of the distributor.

And consequently, I've ordered today on the Net some micro drill bits of these diameters...hoping not to break one or more of them during the drilling process, and to keep enough precision of the gesture, avoiding so to ruin the tiny plastic distributor 😕

A new challenge in perspective !

 

I've made a first try to simulate the 2 oil filler caps on the valve's covers:

 

- Drill on each valve at the right position a 0.6 mm hole

 

48652508798_cef025eaba.jpg

 

- Used 2 headed pins, that I've cut

 

48652871281_d973cfe31c_z.jpg   48652871601_37b1bf258e_z.jpg

 

- And put them in the holes, and I got that:

 

48652509008_264f5bc95e_z.jpg   48652509003_ab30ab920f_z.jpg

 

48652532558_b841d47207_z.jpg

 

Headed pins with slightly wider head would have been better....but I don't find them in my wife's hideout 😉🤭

 

More progress and enhancements to go...stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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Fantastic progress! Looks like a masterpiece is on it's way... I'll keep an eye on this WIP

Marco F

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I guess you know and apply the technique of stretching copper wire before using to get it straight?

If not - grip both ends of a piece of wire firmly with strong pliers and pull. If you pull hard enough you'll feel how the wire stretches a bit before the movement stops again. This piece is straight now and easily workable.

 

For very small parts I personally use a longer piece of wire. I then try to build the needed form in the middle of that section which is way easier with the longer ends to hold and apply pressure with. Then it is a simple matter of trimming with very sharp side cutters (and not losing the part to the carpet monster).

 

0.3mm should be available as soldering wire. I am sure you know about using this stuff for delicate parts? It is very easy to bend to shape and won't flex back.

 

Enjoying your updates - keep them coming!

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Lovely work, as always, Thierry. It's good to see you back "at it" again.

 

1 hour ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

grip both ends of a piece of wire firmly with strong pliers and pull

 ….or you could roll it on a flat surface with a steel ruler.

 

Keep up the good work!:thumbsup:

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2 hours ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

I guess you know and apply the technique of stretching copper wire before using to get it straight?

If not - grip both ends of a piece of wire firmly with strong pliers and pull. If you pull hard enough you'll feel how the wire stretches a bit before the movement stops again. This piece is straight now and easily workable.

 

For very small parts I personally use a longer piece of wire. I then try to build the needed form in the middle of that section which is way easier with the longer ends to hold and apply pressure with. Then it is a simple matter of trimming with very sharp side cutters (and not losing the part to the carpet monster).

 

0.3mm should be available as soldering wire. I am sure you know about using this stuff for delicate parts? It is very easy to bend to shape and won't flex back.

 

Enjoying your updates - keep them coming!

Thanks a lot, @Schwarz-Brot

Yes I knew the tip for getting straight copper wire.

However, I haven't had the idea of soldering wire, which will be probably easier to bend and will keep the shape, so I 've just ordered a coil of 0.3 mm soldering wire on Ebay....Thanks so much for the tip :)

 

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Waiting for my micro drill bits and 0.3 mm soldering wire, I've made today a little progress on the engine,  despite being frequently interrupted by my grand-daughter's solicitations (Emma is my best "scale model" )

 

So, I've painted the 2 carburetors, glued them in place, added the accelerator linkage part, and weathered the whole set.

 

48660849743_c507fff0ef.jpg   48661204161_eee8302b7e_z.jpg

 

As the engine at 1:24 isn't very detailed, I've added some scratch: the fuel line which connects the 2 carburetors, and joins the main fuel line (coming from the fuel tank)

 

To fabricate this tiny part, I've used 0.4 mm brass rod (approximately 10 mm at 1:1 scale), have formed two parts:

 

48660897958_a75be6ccab_z.jpg   48661352287_895aa72f88_z.jpg

 

Have soldered them, to get this (not perfect, pity) :

 

48660849373_6be2eca1a4_z.jpg

 

Now, dry fits of this part on the 2 carburetors:

 

48661204251_c643fe5c5a_z.jpg   48661204231_5d979ce8fa_z.jpg

 

Then, I've taken a 1 mm brass tube, 4 m length section, glued it at the end of the fuel line, and painted it satin black.

 It's supposed to simulate the connection part between this fuel line and the main fuel line I'll fabricate later.

 

48660850318_714c0dd97c.jpg   48661352337_1c1bb4d571.jpg

 

48661204021_b6613e1621_z.jpg  48661352447_e56811d587_z.jpg

 

You could see, if you watch carefully that I've added somme other enhancements, as a micro-drop of Molotov Liquid  chrome on the 3 bolts of each engine valve cover

 

48661371266_1e651b6eac_z.jpg

 

Well, now, to finish the engine, it remains to paint and glue the exhaust collector  and to achieve the wiring that comes out the distributor .....

 

Thanks for watching and stay tuned if you like :)

 

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Exhaust pipe has been primed

 

48661368548_59cbc63654.jpg

 

And during this Sunday, while glued or painted parts were drying, I've worked on the chassis frame
 

It has been a time consuming job, because it required a lot of sanding, filing, sealing, and more sanding etc., but it was worth to do it/

 

48660850223_6c8aba9f9a.jpg   48661204946_c3dd233d85.jpg   48661352642_d062305e77.jpg

 

 

And after priming Alclad Grey primer and filler, and on the photos below, dry fit of the engine:

 

48661845992_ab567be912_c.jpg   48661845977_e7ce1b0aae_c.jpg

 

 

48661699426_e5fabe392c_c.jpg   48661699371_9a80d20d06_c.jpg

 

48661343313_e7ce1b0aae_c.jpg 

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

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Exhaust manifold painted and glued in place, then weathered:

 

48662207237_dd9a77e867_z.jpg   48662207227_2854e96683_c.jpg

 

Goof night to all and sweet dreams

Thansk for watching :)

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You've really made something out of this tiny engine. 

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Hi gentlemen

 

Still waiting for my 0.3 mm soldering wire (Thanks @Schwarz-Brot ), I've put on hold the final job on the engine, and begun with the front axle.

 

48675282158_cb224f941b_z.jpg

 

As expected, on this model, wheels  can turn left and right, so the front axle is functional.

Very delicate job to cut off the sprue several very tiny and fragile parts, and assemble them without glue (only pins to melt carefully with a neither too much nor too little heated blade).

 

So after some  mistakes (a part pined upside down, a pin too flattened, thus preventing the assembly's mobility) that I got finally perfectly fixed, I can show you :

 

 

48675623671_7fcd5ef98d_z.jpg   48675282123_c0da8069cb_z.jpg

 

48675282103_64d3629e43_z.jpg   48675282043_91c2e0bbf4_z.jpg

 

I've now to prime the whole set (chassis and front axle), then paint it satin black (very low quantity on the axle to allow its mobility ), and finally paint "stainless steel" color the springs of the shocks absorbers.

 

In the meantime, some shots of the body just put over the chassis with engine, to get and idea of the final model:

 

48675282243_aa3a4b8996_z.jpg   48675796622_6302536346_z.jpg

 

Thanhs for watching :)

 

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Thanks another time to @Schwarz-Brot, I've finished the engine this evening 😎

 

6 spark plugs made of 0.3 mm soldering wire have been cut, fixed in place on one hand on the distributor (6 holes of 0.2 then 0.3 then 0.4 mm drilled on it), and the another hand, on the "flute",

Then I've painted them red, using first a diluted flat red (2 layers) and the a transparent red (1 layer)

 

Hereunder the result:

 

48678641048_090d19e174.jpg   48678641088_b9c8d50492.jpg

 

48678982786_c0006cc321.jpg   48678982906_feffc0566b.jpg

 

48679154027_8d7c13cff9.jpg   48679154097_317cbd9a37.jpg

 

 48678982951_159ba48f43.jpg  48678645008_767a8877f3_c.jpg

 

 

Initially, the engine from the kit had 17 parts .

With the additions I made, it has now 37.

 

I could improve it a bit more with acceleretor linkage, but frankly, no one would be able to see the differences at this scale.

So, the best being the enemy of the good, I've decided to abstain.

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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To be honest - these are among the best wires in this scale I've seen yet! 😮 You managed to make them look like they lay down a bit under their own weight while being too stiff to conform to every contour - just like in reality! Brilliant.
With most builds in 1/24 the wires are looking like plumbing because they are laid out too neatly or the material is too stiff to behave to scale. You got this so, so right!👍

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