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CrazyCrank

Talbot Lago Record 1950, 1:24 scale, by Heller

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17 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Curiously, I've sprayed the same maner at the same time all the body, and some areas are very correct, and some others have an orange peel aspect !

I don't understand why...

 

I don't use the same 2k as yourself and I add more hardener than you did however the final coat is crucial if applied correctly the orange peel will vanish in front of your eyes literally. When the final coat is finished you should have a mirror finish and with the zero paints system it stays that way. Maybe you applied the clear coat heavier in some places than others without realizing that would explain the problem you had. Anyway don't let this issue  stand in the way of what is and will be a fantastic build when finished. 

               Regards Andy 

Edited by Andy J

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I will be curious to see a before/after photo when sanding is complete.  

 

JCH

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1 hour ago, JCH said:

I will be curious to see a before/after photo when sanding is complete.  

 

JCH

I'am probably as curious as you, but we have to be patient.

The clear coat has to dry and harden perfectly before this sanding job, and it could take several days or even several weeks.....I'm looking forward to see the result, but I don't want to waste it, going on too quickly ! 

 

Meanwhile, I've made tries for the color of the hood, and I think I've found a pleasant one, which blend in harmoniously with the French blue of the body.

 

Hereunder some pictures, made with the painted hood and the first body (of the first kit, with trunk closed):

 

49169313671_ee7b9e0039_z.jpg   49169541122_8f16d308e4_z.jpg   49169313656_d56c81dfb9_z.jpg

Edited by CrazyCrank

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2 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

I do not understand what you mean @JeroenS

Sorry! What I meant was, if someone has some skills with video, I'm sure you could make it look good, or better than in real life!

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2 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Sorry! What I meant was, if someone has some skills with video, I'm sure you could make it look good, or better than in real life!

Anyway, you shouldn't ask to a seventy years old car to show a paint as shiny and scratchless finished as if she just come out the manufacture spraying room, do you ? 🙄

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I'd be joining the crowds in saying that the paint on this is definitely sandable - mine are usually worse than that before I start sanding. As Codger has said, start with fine grit and get finer. I'm not sure if you have them already, or even if you can get them in France, but if available I'd definitely recommend getting the Micromesh pads if the paint doesn't smooth out to the standard you want.

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12 minutes ago, Spiny said:

I'd be joining the crowds in saying that the paint on this is definitely sandable - mine are usually worse than that before I start sanding. As Codger has said, start with fine grit and get finer. I'm not sure if you have them already, or even if you can get them in France, but if available I'd definitely recommend getting the Micromesh pads if the paint doesn't smooth out to the standard you want.

Thanks four this comment, @Spiny :)

Fortunately, I've them : Alclad Micromesh 3600-4000-6000-8000 and 12000... They are in the "starting blocks"

 

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Evening Gentlemen :)

 

Thank you to all of you for your constructive criticism and comments :)

 

It's very difficult for me to wait some days before sanding and polishing the body, but I've no choice.

But, even if I've in my stash numerous 1:24 car kits which wait I pay them attention, it's out of question to begin another build before this one is finished !

 

Having listened the good advice of some friends here (Hello ! @Codger), I've ordered a Molotov Chrome refill that I hope to. receive next Friday...

So I'll be able to test Codger's method to spray it on a blue base coat, in order to be "amazed by the result" :)

For me, the good result for a chromed part is situated between the one I got with AK True Metal Chrome, and the OOB Heller's Chrome.

I would hope to obtain this one spraying Molotov Chrome 🙄

 

I'm too reflecting on how I've to do to scratchbuild a retaining system for the bonnets when it's opened, in reference to some photos of engine bays of Talbot Lago T26:

 

49169751748_33fc396c0a_c.jpg   49169740393_975cfd8514_c.jpg

 

49170200551_b9c538b3f0_c.jpg

 

At 1:24 scale, it's a new challenge I'll be delighted to share with you :)

 

Stay tuned if you like (and even if you do not 😜 ) 😎

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I can't really add to what the others have said....all good advice. 

Hang in there, Thierry, you are creating a beautiful model and unfortunately, these things take some time.

 

Keep up the good work, mate.:thumbsup:

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Morning Chaps :)

 

First results of my sanding job.

I've spent a lot of time to sand and polish the bonnets and the trunk lid

 

Conclusion: Not too bad for bonnets (very few micro-scratches), but disappointing for the trunk lid, where you can see a lot of micro-scratches.

Those one do not disappear after long steps of sanding (all grits of Alclad mesh) and polishing.

In fact, I think that the scratches are in the paint below the clear coat.

I thought that I'd sanded the paint correctly  before(last stage very long with 8000 grit), but in fact, not enough.

 

49181924277_d7ce087b5f_c.jpg

 

49181923987_722384dfe5_c.jpg

 

Moreover , in day light overall, you can notice on the trunk lid,, nearby the right hinge, a grey zone. I think that I've sanded the paint too deeply and that that grey color is the primer one, seen by transparency, through a too thin blue layer !

 

49181218928_6d8e73c593_c.jpg

 

So, I've decided to sand completely the trunk lid to com back to the nude plastic part, and to redo the job for it.

 

I hope that this issues will not appear on the main body !

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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After a complete sanding of the trunk lid, I've made a try, just to see the result

It had been sanded with 400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/3500/4000/6000/8000 and 12000 grit and had recovered a perfect surface

And then, I've polished it with Tamiya compound.

 

You can see by yourself what I got:

 

49182137997_792c9d5d7f_c.jpg

 

Finally, it would have been a good alternative to get a  pretty body, BUT, the color of the plastic part is not the same that the one of the main body and bonnets with French blue paint, and it's obviously essential to get an homogeneous color.

 

So, next steps for the trunk lid: Grey primer, sanding, Blue paint, sanding, polishing, Clear coating, sanding, polishing, waxing: a true mantra :)

 

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Evening Gentlemen :)

 

I am cursed ☹️...On step forwards, two steps back 😲

 

Bonnets are painted, clear coated, polished and satisfactory :)

Trunk lid has been sanded, polished and primed, and is waiting its blue coats :)

 

I was sanding my second main body, the one with the opening trunk lid, and which had already received the clear coat. I had already removed the orange peel aspect with 3000, 3500 and 4000 grits, when I noticed that, while sanding, I had passed through the clear and the blue paint, on some thin areas, as sharp edges of the bonnets , and grille. One could then see the grey of the primer !

 

Stupidly, I decided to spray a bit of Tamiya TS 10 over these areas...🙄

 

- That resulted in fixing the issue on all  places...

- Except nearby the grille, probably because I sprayed too much closer of the body: there, there was too much solvent, and that reacted with the clear coat, producing a chipped paint. Then, the clear coat stripped by itself , and all the work was and is damaged !

 

I'm now used to disappointments, so, I've decided 2 things:

 

- 1/ I have to try to strip off entirely the Clear coat and the paint, and then, redo the job of sanding, polishing, painting, sanding and polishing , and eventually clear coating, because all the work that have been made to get a opening trunk is worth it.

- 2/ In the event that I fail to reach this result, I have NOW to try to get an acceptable result with the first body, the one with closed trunk, quit to moderate my ambitions .

 

That's why I've soaked the damaged body in different liquids , as caustic soda, Ammonia, without any success, and then, following the advices of some tutorials on modelers websites, I've used brake fluid. YES, BRAKE FLUID 😲

Of course, I've first made a try over a residual plastic sprue, in order to ensure that this agressive product wouldn't melt the plastic....it wasn't the case, fortunately.

This evening, I've controlled the effects on the body, and all the clear and the paint has begun to detach from the plastic body... I let it react until tomorrow evening, and then, I've good reasons to believe that I could retrieve a clean plastic body, fingers crossed !

 

Nevertheless, I've worked on the first body, taking time to sand it even more carefully, with 3000/3600/4000/6000/8000 and 12000 grit (Alclad mesh), and , as surprising as it may sound, even before polishing it with Tamiya compounds, I've got a good result.

 

So much that I wonder if I have to clear coat it ?

 

- Arguments for: If I put the decals (Trunk and grille) without clear coating, this will be visible, and will provide an imperfect result

- Arguments against : The body's paint of pre 70's cars wasn't clear coated, only polished.  Best is the enemy of good, and if I clear coat, the risk is high to return to the same difficulties and issues than previously, so ....

 

Nothing decided at this moment.

 

Hereunder some pictures of what I got with the first body, only with paint sanding:

 

49190540757_b894bf843e_c.jpg

 

49190540722_764890bf8a_c.jpg

 

49190540807_d6b16a47f5_c.jpg

 

49189846198_08e4609dda_c.jpg

 

The difference in terms of shining between the bonnets, which have been clear coated before polishing, and the main body, which have not, is very subtle, not to say invisible !

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

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If you're asking, I vote NO clear.

A. The body looks beautiful and period correct in gloss level.

B. Risk: you've been through enough already to incur another chemical heartbreak.

C. Better test the decals with clear FIRST if you decide to go that way.

 

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16 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

The difference in terms of shining between the bonnets, which have been clear coated before polishing, and the main body, which have not, is very subtle, not to say invisible !

I think you've answered your own question right there. 

That's saying clearcoat is a waste of time here, and a load of troubles! 

So I'm with Codger on this. 

Though I don't know much about it 😎

 

It has me wondering, does car polish work on model cars? Can you use real-world products like Turtle Wax..... Or even restorers like Tcut.... with any success on models? 

 

I'm still hoping you'll finally end up with 2 excellent Talbots! 

 

 

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I'll join in the camp of saying don't clear-coat it - it loosk plenty good enough as it is and unless you really need to protect some decals down the line it's just another thing to go wrong for no real gain judging by that last photo. Well done on the rescue mission - when I've had to fix a paint job gone wrong (paint spatter in my case) it took more like 6 weeks than 6 days, and the result wasn't as good as yours (the 'Sad' icon is more a reflection of the original going wrong, and definitely not a reflection of the finished produce

 

3 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

 

It has me wondering, does car polish work on model cars? Can you use real-world products like Turtle Wax..... Or even restorers like Tcut.... with any success on models?

You can certainly use wax, although obviously you need much less of it. Personally, I use Dodo Juice hard wax on my models - much more control of where it goes using the hard stuff than with liquids. Not sure I'd want to use Tcut though - my gut instinct would be that it may be a bit too aggressive for a model but I have no evidence to back that up.

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59 minutes ago, Spiny said:

I'll join in the camp of saying don't clear-coat it - it loosk plenty good enough as it is and unless you really need to protect some decals down the line it's just another thing to go wrong for no real gain judging by that last photo. Well done on the rescue mission - when I've had to fix a paint job gone wrong (paint spatter in my case) it took more like 6 weeks than 6 days, and the result wasn't as good as yours (the 'Sad' icon is more a reflection of the original going wrong, and definitely not a reflection of the finished produce

 

You can certainly use wax, although obviously you need much less of it. Personally, I use Dodo Juice hard wax on my models - much more control of where it goes using the hard stuff than with liquids. Not sure I'd want to use Tcut though - my gut instinct would be that it may be a bit too aggressive for a model but I have no evidence to back that up.

After polishing with Tamiya compounds (what hasn't been yet done on the body), I use Carnauba Turtle Wax :)

 

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Evening Gentlemen :)

 

I've retrieved a wreck from its bath of brake fluid !

 

After having scraped off all varnish and paint, I've noticed that the plastic of the body hadn't been melt, as one could fear, by this aggressive liquid, but had been , all the contrary, hardened, and that it became weaker and brittle.

 

If you take a look at the photos below, you could see 3 big cracks: 1 on the body forward the front side of the trunk lid, and 2 on the windshield frame ☹️

 

49205733626_91b438f7b8_c.jpg   49205945357_eb6ebb2218_c.jpg

 

49205733481_6593bc8947_c.jpg

 

Admittedly, it's very possible to fix them, BUT, It's quite certain that, later on, during the sanding job on primer, blue paint, and during the polishing job of the paint, one or more of these repaired cracks will crack again !

So, I've to admit that it's no longer worth it, pity 😞

 

That is why you won't see this scale model with an opening trunk.

 

Wait and see :)

 

 

 

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Aw that's a shame, CrazyCrank. 

Another lesson learnt I guess. 

I can see an "old forgotten farmyard wreck " diorama coming rising from the ruins though. 

The trunk opened for hens 

🐈🐖🐂🐮🐓🐔🐥🐣🐤🦚

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I am sad for all the turmoil you're enduring Thierry, especially after such stellar work.

Accept the compromises, you will still have an outstanding model.

And remember it's a stepping-stone back to the Bugatti masterpiece.

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No need for clearcoat and polish on that one 👍

 

 

Edit... I mean the ol' wreck 

Not the Bugatti 😎

Edited by rob Lyttle

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I've gotta admit....blue just aint my color but this one sure grabbed my attention. Looks like the back may be repairable with a little bracing underneath by way of a plastic strip. The window framing may be a little more difficult but the fact that you have as much work in this as you do makes this a worthy project to repair and move forward. I know it'd be hard for me to scrap a project that I've got that as much invested in as you do timewise. 

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8 hours ago, mustang1989 said:

I've gotta admit....blue just aint my color but this one sure grabbed my attention. Looks like the back may be repairable with a little bracing underneath by way of a plastic strip. The window framing may be a little more difficult but the fact that you have as much work in this as you do makes this a worthy project to repair and move forward. I know it'd be hard for me to scrap a project that I've got that as much invested in as you do timewise. 

You're certainly right @mustang1989

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Such a shame, Thierry... all that hard work.

 

On 12/11/2019 at 10:41 PM, Codger said:

Accept the compromises, you will still have an outstanding model.

And remember it's a stepping-stone back to the Bugatti masterpiece.

I'll second that!

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