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Talbot Lago Record 1950, 1:24 scale, by Heller


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Evening Gentlemen :)

 

Between two games with my grand-daughter, a first attempt to scratch a trunk-handle whose shape would be the closest as possible of the real, and working of course.

 

So, I needed two parts:

- the base of he handle, a little rectangle of 0.25 mm brass sheet, 1.0 x 1.3 mm, 0.7 mm drilled, which be nickel plated and then CA glued on the trunk, once painted, clear coated and polished.

- and the handle, shaped with needle files in a 0.7 mm brass rod, and bended with pliers, which thread the base and the trunk.

 

This handle will be later on bended at its inner side, in order to be able to lock the trunk on the body, just rotating it .

 

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I've had to sand the trunk to remove the grey primer because, and I' really don't know why, It became fat and sticky 😲

A lot of sanding remains to do on it, with Sanding paper 800, 1000, 1200, 3000 etc before priming it again.

But it will worth the efforts.

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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Evening Gentlemen :)

 

Body and trunk lid have been sanded 400/600//1500/2000/3000 and primed fist coat this evening.

It's not a great progress so far, but it had to be done !

 

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I'm very happy with the result I got, spraying 15 psi the Alclad Grey primer and micro-filler , with a very low flow of paint.

It won't be necessary to sand the first coat before spraying the second, and the primer look very smooth,

 

I've also made tries on a French Blue painted part, with the Alclad Klear Kote Gloss, because the Gloss clear in spray can from Mr Hobby gave me a bad result.

And another time, I've been disappointed !

Sprayed with my airbrush 15 Psi, low flow for the first coat, and then low-medium flow for the second, it dried rather quickly, without orange peel aspect, BUT, the varnish resulted very weak, and didn't resist even a light sanding, peeling off very easily.

 

So, I'm still wondering about the brand to use on the paint ?

Mr Hobby spray can is difficult to manage, and my first try resulted in orange peel aspect. However, I fix that with a long and painful sanding .

Alclad Klear Kote Gloss isn't satisfying !

Will I try to airbrush with the last varnish I purchased: Gravity colors Gloss clear coat set ?

 

Any suggestion will be most appreciated :)

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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39 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Any suggestion will be most appreciated :)

I've become a fan of the Zero Paints 1K clear. Straight from the bottle without thinning, not too shiny and very tough. 

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Afternoon, Chaps :)

 

Body, bonnets and trunk lid has been painted, not without difficulties and then has been sanded 2000/3000/4000/6000 and 8000 to remove the slight orange peel aspect

Decals has been stuck , and I've covered with Bare Metal Foil Chrome the hinges of the trunk, and the embellishers of rear wheel housings

 

I've tried several times to put BFM Chrome on the chromed frame of the windshield but have not succeeded, so, this element will be painted with a Molotov Chrome pen after masking, once the body has received its layers of gloss clear coat 🙄

 

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Now, the moment of truth with clear coating 😨 But before, I've to wait 3 days for a total drying and hardening of the paint

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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Thierry you have overcome some amazing challenges with a build that was supposed to be less intense than the big scale work you've accomplished. That this is really tiny 1/24 scale and the detail you've added has my complete respect. Be very satisfied with what you've achieved.

A pleasure to see and a testament to your talent.  :worthy:

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14 minutes ago, Codger said:

Thierry you have overcome some amazing challenges with a build that was supposed to be less intense than the big scale work you've accomplished. That this is really tiny 1/24 scale and the detail you've added has my complete respect. Be very satisfied with what you've achieved.

A pleasure to see and a testament to your talent.  :worthy:

Thank you so much for your kind words, Chase.

However, all my efforts will be ruined if get a poor result  with the paint... 

Given the difficulties I 've encountered until now with the paint, I'm rather worried for the next step 😒

Edited by CrazyCrank
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15 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Thank you so much for your kind words, Chase.

However, all my efforts will be ruined if get a poor result  with the paint... 

Given the difficulties I 've encountered until now with the paint, I'm rather worried for the next step 😒

Not so my friend. Although it's true that any of the last finishing steps can sabotage a great build they in fact only add to the work of completing a masterpiece. As unthinkable as it seems, one can always sand it away and redo the damage. Never a happy thought but part of the challenge of an advanced build such as this.

No reason to expect a poor paint result given your previous master works with paint. Your skills have not left you.:cheers:

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Evening, Gentlemen :)

 

I'm eager to clear coat the body, bonnets and trunk lid, but I've made silly mistakes enough with the blue paint today because of this impatience.

For example, as I'm crazy, in search of perfection (is it possible, for us, mere mortals ?), for instance to minimize the orange peel aspect as much as possible, I've often done worst, removing too much blue paint, and revealing the grey of the primer below !

Not only once, but twice or more !!!

 

So, let us calm down ! I'm fed up with this paint 🤢

 

And that was I then started  to work on the hood (the convertible top), particularly on the chromed parts that serve to open and close it.

 

In the same time, I've worked on the radiator grille and bumpers.

 

As I've two same kits of the Talbot, I can make experiences.

So, I've de-chromed these parts, primed them, and coated them with a thick shiny layer of Alclad gloss black.

Then, remembering the advices I got for my wheels, I've sprayed on them several thin layers of AK Interactive Extreme Metal Chrome AK 477.... AND WOW, It's a wonderful product, and the result is frankly VERY convincing :)

 

Why not see for yourself ?

 

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It remains to protect the weak chrome paint and enhance its brightness with a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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Afternoon Chaps :)

 

Finally, I'm not sure I'll use these de-chromed and re-chromed parts to put on the body.

 

Indeed, they seemed yesterday, in artificial light, very shiny and very real chrome looking, but in day light, after a coat of gloss varnish, it's not the case, and the chrome has slightly pale brown reflects.

This technique and the AK true metal chrome is probably perfect for wheels and rims, but, for a luxury car as this Talbot, which is, moreover, a museum car, I think it will be better, for radiator grille, bumpers and several other chromed parts, to keep them as they are in the Heller box.

 

Nethertheless, beforethe final choice, I'll make other tries without grey primer before the gloss black layer, and with a polishing before clear coating,  to see if the result is better.

 

 

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49 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

Nethertheless, before the final choice, I'll make other tries without grey primer before the gloss black layer, and with a polishing before clear coating,  to see if the result is better.

 

 

BY all means, open a Molotow pen or buy the refill bottle and spray it out of your airbrush. Prime the parts in a blue lacquer first. Thin the Molotow just a small amount with iso. Clean gun with iso.

You will be amazed.

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1 hour ago, Codger said:

BY all means, open a Molotow pen or buy the refill bottle and spray it out of your airbrush. Prime the parts in a blue lacquer first. Thin the Molotow just a small amount with iso. Clean gun with iso.

You will be amazed.

Hi @Codger

 

2 questions, please:

- Do you use a light blue or a dark blue ?

- Which varnish do you spray on the parts after chroming them with Molotov ?

 

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12 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Hi @Codger

 

2 questions, please:

- Do you use a light blue or a dark blue ?

- Which varnish do you spray on the parts after chroming them with Molotov ?

 

Darker but not too dark.

None. Will take some assembly handling after a good 2 days. I never use clear over. It has a very 'hard' gloss, like real chrome.You can experiment with the gloss level using Future which will not harm it. Experiment on a spoon.

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Hi all :)

 

After 3 days paint drying and hardening; bonnets, trunk lid and body have been cleaned and sanded another time 6000 and 8000.

 

Then I've prepared my Clear Coat, using Gravity Gloss Clear Coat 3 components, strictly following the advices of the manufacturer (3 parts of Clear, 1 of Thinner and 1 of Hardener)

Pity, the blend was too thick and has produced after the first wet coat an ugly orange peel aspect 😲

 

So I've increased the proportion of thinner and then I've been able to spray a second wet coat  in a better way.

The brightness is very impressive, but......

There's still a very slight peel orange aspect in different areas of the body, and, pity, some dust particles has had time enough to stick on the clear !

I think that a cautious sanding  with 4000 mesh, and then a good polishing with Tamiya compounds (coarse, fine and finish), will produce a good result.

 

However, contrary to what state the manufacturer, the drying is very long, explaining probably why dust stick so easily.

After 1,5 hours , the clear coat on the test part is always very sticky.

So, I've probably to wait several days (or weeks ?, months ? ☹️) before being able to sand the clear to remove the dust and the orange peel aspect.

I'm fed up, fed up, fed up with this painting job  😡

 

And I'm seriously thinking about stopping all that stuff 😫

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Well, better news  :)

The orange peel aspect is spontaneously decreasing as the clear is stiffening ... good point, there will be less sanding job to do later on :)

Remains the dust problem: after sanding in a couple of years (I'm kidding !), it's possible that I have to spray a third layer of clear before polishing ?

 

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Stay tuned, even if you don't like :)

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank
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Please don't stop now Mr Crank! Take a deep breath now, there there... 

 

I'm sure you could do a thin third coat after you've carefully sanded those pesky spots of dust away. And I'm also sure that even with a tiny bit of dust this will make a great model!

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1 hour ago, CrazyCrank said:

Hi all :)

 

After 3 days paint drying and hardening; bonnets, trunk lid and body have been cleaned and sanded another time 6000 and 8000.

 

Then I've prepared my Clear Coat, using Gravity Gloss Clear Coat 3 components, strictly following the advices of the manufacturer (3 parts of Clear, 1 of Thinner and 1 of Hardener)

Pity, the blend was too thick and has produced after the first wet coat an ugly orange peel aspect 😲

 

So I've increased the proportion of thinner and then I've been able to spray a second wet coat  in a better way.

The brightness is very impressive, but......

There's still a very slight peel orange aspect in different areas of the body, and, pity, some dust particles has had time enough to stick on the clear !

I think that a cautious sanding  with 4000 mesh, and then a good polishing with Tamiya compounds (coarse, fine and finish), will produce a good result.

 

However, contrary to what state the manufacturer, the drying is very long, explaining probably why dust stick so easily.

After 1,5 hours , the clear coat on the test part is always very sticky.

So, I've probably to wait several days (or weeks ?, months ? ☹️) before being able to sand the clear to remove the dust and the orange peel aspect.

I'm fed up, fed up, fed up with this painting job  😡

 

And I'm seriously thinking about stopping all that stuff 😫

I've had exactly the same issue with 2K clear - I had to leave it for a couple of weeks to dry before it was properly hard .  I suspect it needed more hardener .  Something else to watch out for with 2K is that you can't spray automotive aerosols over it as they cause it to craze , at at least it did when I tried it .  I was assured by the car body shop which gave me the lacquer that it should dry quickly & , once dry , was impervious to other paints , but that was definitely not my experience  .  One final point - when you come to polish the body , ensure that you use an ammonia-free cutting compound such as 3M Finesse-It , since the ammonia in the old-style compounds (known as T-Cut in the UK) attacks the 2K coating .

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I'm repeating myself for my quite anxious friends and followers:

 

Well, better news  :)

The orange peel aspect is spontaneously decreasing as the clear is stiffening ... good point, there will be less sanding job to do later on :)

It's essentially noticeable on the doors of the body, elsewhere it's OK.

 

The photos below are magnifying the issue, but a good sanding, hopefully, will be beneficial :)

 

 

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Stay tuned, even if you don't like :)

Edited by CrazyCrank
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I'm really wondering about how do the other modelers, whom videos can be seen on YouTube, to get directly, and apparently so easily,  such a good result when they spray a clear coat, whatever the Clear brand they  use  ?

 

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11 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

I'm really wondering about how do the other modelers, whom videos can be seen on YouTube, to get directly, and apparently so easily,  such a good result when they spray a clear coat, whatever the Clear brand they  use  ?

 

That's called "editing" 😉 

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Yes my friend, a sanding will rectify those areas once the 2K dries completely. Just don't add scratches so I'd start with 3600, then 4000,6000, 8000 and 12000 - all WET. Then I would use a good polish as suggested above and finally real automotive carnuba wax. I would not tempt the fates by shooting more clear. You also risk making the paint coatings too thick on the body.

 

A method I employ to stop or reduce the inclusion of dust to drying finishes is to cover the body. I use a simple large-enough cardboard or plastic box (which has had its interior wiped and blown out with compressed air), inverted with a small prop of 1" or less under one narrow side. This keeps dust off and lets paint gas out. Leave it untouched for a long as you can to cure dust-free.

Edited by Codger
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Having studied your photos of the paintwork it looks to me that the clear coat was not sprayed wet enough. I use  2k all the time on my builds and always finish off with a heavy wet coat this eliminates any orange peel and most of the time no sanding or polishing is required 

                Regards Andy

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36 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Having studied your photos of the paintwork it looks to me that the clear coat was not sprayed wet enough. I use  2k all the time on my builds and always finish off with a heavy wet coat this eliminates any orange peel and most of the time no sanding or polishing is required 

                Regards Andy

Curiously, I've sprayed the same maner at the same time all the body, and some areas are very correct, and some others have an orange peel aspect !

I don't understand why...

 

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