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CrazyCrank

Talbot Lago Record 1950, 1:24 scale, by Heller

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Posted (edited)

Hi Chaps :)

As said today in my Bug thread, I start today a new topic, and a new build, to help myself to get back on my feet, after so many empty days

 

Photo of the box art of this Heller old kit:

 

48614164787_1dbd79cc49_z.jpg

 

 

Blueprints:

 

48613773016_ba13e8df86_z.jpg

 

 

Somes sprues, some of them incomplete, because the building has begun:

 

48613936542_f94c8796c1_z.jpg

 

48613936372_aa272ee8aa_z.jpg

 

48613433128_569300cff8_z.jpg

 

48613786511_0dec4d2039_z.jpg

 

48613923262_8f7204b357_z.jpg

 

 

My goal: (pictures by "courtesy" of some websites 😀 - All ref. Photos taken by "Cateralp" of the Heller-for-ever forum, in Rochetaillée Museum )

 

48613419998_d6e8906f11_c.jpg

 

48613773196_724ccabfcb_c.jpg

 

48613419968_5172516e63_c.jpg

 

48613923017_c5cde0f114_c.jpg

 

 

Stay tuned il you like 😎

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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No surprise I’ll be following this, wondering if the kit will be as challenging to construct as I think it will be but surely expecting and inspecting some great modelling along the way.

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Posted (edited)

Of course, I've planed some enhancements to the kit, and the addition of some scratch , and, as much as possible, extra detailing :)

In order to do this, however, I need your help:

And I would like yout to provide me photos of this vintage car, if you own or discover some of them.

I've engaged a research on the net, but havn't at the moment, gather many period documents, so....

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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The body of the car had been distorted and cracked, particularly the windshield frame, during its long stay in the box, crashed under several other kit boxes...

So, I've had to repair / rectify it, using CA gel on the windshield frame, and a heat source to gently bend on the right way the distorted parts.

Also, there was, as usual, a lot of undesirable molding lines, and it has been a long job to  sand the body.

 

But, I'm quite happy, regardless of the potential bad surprises after having primed it:

 

48614389502_b0b5c8299b_z.jpg

 

48613887208_c5f963abe4_z.jpg

 

48614389527_27ffa992b4_z.jpg

 

48613887198_e0af694419_z.jpg

 

48614247801_295d506c4a_z.jpg

 

 

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If it does cause you pain to work, your skills will give you the old satisfaction of beautiful results.

 

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That is a beauty. I do not have any pictures of this car so I cannot help you. 

Will be following as you progress. I’m sure the result will be stunning.

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Posted (edited)

Well, yesterday, before deciding to post something, I've also worked on the first step of the building... the engine.

 

48615640356_35448a2a54.jpg

 

A lot of flash and defects on these parts, and sanding, sealing with Tamiya putty, sanding etc....has been necessary before priming

 

48613772576_5003f67d80.jpg   48613922052_cb9303bf0f.jpg

 

Same thing for the step 5, Radiator:

 

48615412368_3bc498a27e.jpg

 

48613418883_5c4c0b966e.jpg.  48613419118_78edcbcc95.jpg

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Posted (edited)

Regarding the engine valve covers, the two parts, very finely moulded (you can see "Talbot Lago" inscriptions), were chromed.

 

 

I don't know if you have noticed, but, the chrome parts of this kit appear very tacky.

Furthermore, on the real engine, these parts are aluminum, so..........I've dechromed them before priming (paint doesn't grip on chrome parts).

 

And, as we talk about it, dechroming plastic parts has given an ocean of web publications: regularly, people praise the virtues of bleach, claiming that soaking the part in this solution, pure or diluted, allow to dechrome it in less than 10 minutes !

For me, it doesn't work correctly, and after more than 3 hours, the parts are not correctly nor entirely dechromed.

So, I tried another method, advocated by an American modeler: Logically, he use Coca-Cola (without premising if it is regular, diet or zero Coca :) )... Sorry but, it didn't work either  for me.

 

After several experiments, my choice was "Caustic soda solution".

In France, we can find it easily in household products store, for instance with "Destop" brand (this product is used to clear a blocked siphon for example.

 

Caution, it's a very toxic product, and, when you soak chromed parts in it, very noxious fumes release, so, if possible, you must wear a mask, protective goggles and gloves.

 

BUT,il's absolutely worth the trip, because, it takes less than 30 seconds to get a perfectly dechromed part.

 

Of course, I would strongly recommend that you make a try previously on a bit of chromed sprue, in order to ensure that the plastic will resist. Normally and logically yes, since the product is contained in a plastic bottle !

 

Hereunder, a short video to show you the process:

 

 

Enjoy :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Posted (edited)

And now, after priming with Alclad II Grey primer and microfiller, an excellent UK product  :)

 

48613419368_63e5bc6ec7_z.jpg    48613772161_b895c2db58_z.jpg   48613922077_04e51d922a_z.jpg

 

 

48613922067_dfcce2fae4_c.jpg

 

You can see the incredible detail level of the engine valve cover, knowing that this part is 27 mm length and 5 mm wide 😯

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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I will be following along with this, if you don't mind, Sir....popcorn at the ready:D

 

Cheers, H

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Posted (edited)

I've sprayed 20 psi, low flow of paint, two layers of satin black Tamiya X18 on the radiator and the engine's body, and got what I was looking for: a grained aspect of the surface, as it was on the real engine

 

48616497851_37ca7bf7ec_z.jpg

 

48616219588_e75a4e0665.jpg

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Posted (edited)

After having painted Tamiya X16 Flat Aluminium the 4 access panels of the engine's body and the central part of piece n° 56 (front of the engine's body), and applied  Tamiya panel line accent color, to get a bit of weathering, shadows, dirt and relief, I got this:

 

48616815536_38f3c90668.jpg

 

And, after glueing these two parts:

 

48617413011_bdc2602bb5.jpg   48617057333_5a949d2335.jpg 48617057288_8589734d20.jpg

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Posted (edited)

I've now painted the Aluminum parts to the engine's body, using Alclad II metallized (after a layer of Alclad gloss black base)

 

- Polished Aluminum for the engine valve covers

 

48617737583_fbc6c01f30_z.jpg

 

 

- Aluminum for the others, particularly the engine oil pan

 

 

 

48618088181_cd8402f900.jpg   48618088141_5488446bd4.jpg

 

It remains to give a bit of weathering with Tamiya accent panel line black, once the parts glued together. But I must wait for complete drying before handle the Alclad paint parts... at least 24 hours !

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Posted (edited)

The radiator, initially painted satin black, has been modified, according to my reference photos, and its frame has been sprayed (after masking) with Alclad II Stainless steel

 

48618170926_8892a578d5.jpg   48618316747_74aaea84cf.jpg

 

Here too, there's room for a bit of weathering 

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Detail remains crisp after painting, well done. Alclad has a special varnish to adequately protect its rather weak paint. 

 

You’re on a roll!

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2 minutes ago, Roy vd M. said:

Detail remains crisp after painting, well done. Alclad has a special varnish to adequately protect its rather weak paint. 

 

You’re on a roll!

I'm very interested @Roy vd M. ?

Could you give me the reference of this special varnish ?

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Mainly used to protect Alclad chrome (which otherwise can be simply brushed off by hand) it has a glossy finish that does justice to the chrome gloss. Can also be used on polished aluminium or other shiny metal. I think its code is Alc 600.

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1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said:

Mainly used to protect Alclad chrome (which otherwise can be simply brushed off by hand) it has a glossy finish that does justice to the chrome gloss. Can also be used on polished aluminium or other shiny metal. I think its code is Alc 600.

Thank you so much, @Roy vd M.

Product order on Passion 132 website :)

 

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Despite your ills, you've lost none of your skills.

Bravo!

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Posted (edited)

Evening, Gentlemen

 

This evening, after medical work, a bit of weathering on the engine's body parts and final assembly of STEP 1

 

Hope it will look good for you... the photos, taken with an iPhone, with high magnifying, don't do justice to the real aspect I can see with my eyes 

 

48626159468_85e2c3d1f4.jpg   48626159893_c4f6d96ae9.jpg   48626159253_b311897947.jpg

 

48626159693_25940073a7.jpg   48626508781_78fe07f143.jpg   

 

48626159588_5cd306c80b.jpg   48626159468_85e2c3d1f4.jpg   48626258443_37134f22d2.jpg

 

Thanks for watching, and stay tuned if you like :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Good to see you flexing your modelling muscles a little. Your progress looks very tidy so far. Will follow for sure!

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Posted (edited)

A very slight progress with beginning of step 2

 

48635992766_632f230183.jpg

 

I've glued in place and painted the set "3 pulleys and belt, plus alternator":

 

48635623143_803337d5e4.jpg   48635979841_1e3441aea4.jpg   48636123497_8ccd900827.jpg

 

Another time, macro photos don't do justice to the real job, because they reveal and enhance all the imperfections.

 

The alternator has received a little enhancement: after having masked with 1 mm masking tape, I've painted a silver band which is supposed to simulate the attachement of the alternator on engine's body

It remains to paint the fan propeller with Alclad polished aluminum or chrome, I'm hesitating, and the fix it of its pulley

 

While I was doing this tiny job, I thought that it would be nice to fabricate a flute to guide the spark plug's wires, as on the real:

 

48636203082_afaf026c9a.jpg

 

 

No sooner thought than done !

 

Lets take a 1.48 diameter brass tube

Let's cut 25 mm lenght

Drill at both ends two 0.5 mm holes

 

48635979731_5f172d51cf.jpg

 

Let's take 0.5 mm brass rod, 2 parts of 5 mm length

Put a rod in a hole, and let's solder it on the flute...repeat at the other end.

 

48636123047_8bdeddab64.jpg   48635979201_799f6e694d.jpg   48635979201_799f6e694d.jpg

 

Put the set on your cutting mat, let's take your hand drill with 0.5 mm bit, and drill at one end of the flute several holes very closed together

And then achieve the job with a file, to get a "rectangular" hole, in which the wires will go inside.

 

48635622558_d3bfdefc47.jpg

 

On the other side of the flute, drill 6 0.5 mm holes, through with the wires will get out

 

48635622918_f7d45cf385.jpg

 

 

And you get this imperfect but acceptable piece :

 

48636123222_edd8457d3f.jpg   48636262817_dfbf769968.jpg

 

Dry fit on the engine's body:

 

48635979721_c907382030.jpg   48636123392_2dc97f8b50.jpg

 

The least complicated step of the job is done for the flute...it remains to manufacture 6 spark plugs 1:24 scale , the wiring same scale, and to paint the whole set without loosing the accuracy of details 😕

 

Thanks for watching :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Posted (edited)

Finally, the Flute has Benn Nicke electro-plated...much much better paint paint, very accurate, vey shiny, I'm happy with it:

 

The bathtub:

 

48637388692_42589d0759.jpg

 

the result:

 

48636886503_27d25c86cb.jpg

 

48637267641_2485bdfaf6_z.jpg   48636916778_421e00a90d_z.jpg

 

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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