Spray or not to spray

[Edwin Parks]

Hi Guys

 

I need some advice. I've been trundling along slowly with my newly refound enthusiasm for military modelling. All my subjects so far reflect my interest in Arab/Arabian armies ranging from a WW1 Ford Model T to an Arab Legion Marmon Harrington armoured car. For each of these I'e been satisfied with giving the hull/main body a nice spray coat of Destert Yellow from a Vallejo spray tine.

 

But now I want to move on to some of the opposition, in this case an Italian AS 42 Sahariana. The hull colour is of course rather different and with advice here I am down to a choice between a Revell and a Hataka Yellow sand. But of course both are in bottles. 

 

So I am looking very tentatively as air brushing but have absolutely no idea how to start. Can any one offer a few absolute beginner tips. For example do I need a compressor or will it work from a canned air bottle. How small a piece can you do, how fine a line??? Presumably there will always be a point when only a brush will do?

 

Thanks Eddie

[Kingsman]

You don't absolutely need a compressor.  But having said that, cans work out expensive and the pressure reduces as the compressed liquid gasses off.  Their contents are sometimes flammable too, especially cheap ones.

 

For the odd model here and there, cans might work out OK.  But if you plan to spray a lot then a compressor is certainly a worthwhile investment.  Air is free once you've bought the hardware.  But get one with a tank to ensure even air flow: without a tank you can get "sputtering" of the airflow.  Compressors with tanks will have a cut-off so that the motor does not run constantly: only to recharge the tank.  They also allow better control of the air pressure.  Expect to pay perhaps £100 or so.

 

As for airbrushes, there is myriad choice.  I have several and they're mostly cheap unbranded clones, which work OK.  There are big brands at big bucks (and IMHO a lot of brand snobbery).  Don't choose one which has a paint bottle: side or top cups are more useful.  Steer well away from external-mix types (which usually have a bottle anyway) as they don't give good enough control or fine enough spray.  Ideally you want what is known as a Double Action airbrush where a single button controls both air flow (push down) and paint flow (pull back).  This allows you to vary the spray width and paint volume at will.

 

Several nozzle and needle sizes will be useful.  On a double action brush these will be interchangeable.  For camouflage you will need a 0.2mm, but for painting a whole large vehicle you will find a 0.3 or even 0.5mm useful.  Some airbrushes come as sets with such accessories.

 

A cleaning kit and some cleaning fluid are essential however you get your propellant gas.   Especially with acrylics, which dry quickly.  Drying retarder or flow improver will be useful to stop the paint drying in the airbrush or in mid-air.  Without it you can get a sandy/gritty finish, expecially in my experience with Tamiya paints.  Cleaning your airbrush well immediately after use is absolutely essential.

 

You will need to experiment with thinning.  Each paint brand is different and even "airbrush ready" paints usually need some thinning, especially with finer nozzles.  Thinners are not always compatible across brands and I tend to stick with brand-specific thinners.  Having said that, the universal thinner from Universal Modelling Products does seem to work across brands as advertised and they have a paint brand thinning guide.  Their airbrush cleaner is good too.

 

While modern modelling paints are safe, you should wear breathing protection agaisnt the paint particles.  The surgical/dust mask type is better than nothing but a half mask with proper filters is best.  Despite the temptation to spray outside, even a light breeze will be problematic.  A water trap in the air line will deal with any water created by the air compression.  Spray indoors but with good ventilation.  I use cheap large plastic storage boxes as spray booths out in my integral garage: cheap enough to be disposable when they get too manky.  Cut a few holes in the "top" to allow the trapped air out.  "Proper" spray booths with filtered air extraction are available at £££, but are not necessary for most modellers.

 

I hope these potted thoughts help.

[ivan-o]

Top advice from above but I would say a compressor every time. Having looked to replace mine there does seem to be reasonably priced compressor and airbrush sets on eBay.

Edited August 24, 2019 by ivan-o

[Parabat]

Pretty much what Das Abteilung said, and I would agree with the above about a compressor. 

When I took up modelling again as an adult I bought a cheap-ish set up (Expo Tools AB602 - still available on a well known auction site) which had a compressor, doubke action airbrush with a .5mm needle and top fill cup. You can get smaller needles (.2mm and .3mm) with nozzles on the same auction site. I have found it perfect for my needs - 1/48 aircraft - and I am pleased with the results I've had. 

No need to spend hundreds of pounds on kit, this is a very good and serviceable set up. So long as you keep it clean and look after the needle and nozzle, you will be fine. 

[Edwin Parks]

Thanks everyone. I think I will have to try and find someone who uses one and take a look in real life.

 

Thanks again.

[ivan-o]

2 hours ago, Edwin Parks said:

Thanks everyone. I think I will have to try and find someone who uses one and take a look in real life.

 

Thanks again.

I can understand your caution Edwin but if you are going to participate in the hobby for any length of time then your investment in an airbrush and compressor will be well worth it in the end! It really doesn’t take to long to get used to using one 😀

[louiex2]

I would post this in the BM Airbrush section.  Also, take a look at the other postings in that section- hardly a week goes by without a question about getting a starter airbrush and compressor.   You just need a basic airbrush and, as Das-Abteilung said, there is a lot of a snobbery as to which one is best.  I’m in the US and have two Paasche Model H’s for the basic work (my “new” one is 20 years old) and a Badger Krome for detail work.   I do recommend you invest in a decent compressor.  You can upgrade the airbrush later as you get better using it, but good compressor will last you for years.  

 

Lou in Idaho

[Kingsman]

On 8/25/2019 at 10:20 AM, Edwin Parks said:

Thanks everyone. I think I will have to try and find someone who uses one and take a look in real life.

Putting my former trainer's hat back on, airbrushing is something better understood through experiential learning.  Tell me and I'll hear, show me and I'll see but let me do and I'll understand.  And as Henry Ford is once reputed to have said, "research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing".  You don't need models to experiment on: plastic card is cheap.  Don't use paper or cardboard as the paint will behave differently on the absorbent surface.  Old or cheap plastic toys etc also make good test subjects.

 

There are places where you can take airbrush lessons in a safe environment where you're not ruining your own models.  I don't know whether there are any convenient to you on the Emerald Isle, but I'm sure that Mr Google can help.  However, most of the courses available are "arty" or body painting, rather than modelling-related so you may need to hunt around.  Some local modelling clubs run skills evenings where more experineced members will demonstrate aspects of modelling for less experienced members.  In the YouTube age I'm sure there are visual tutorials on there too.

[Edwin Parks]

Thanks

[rayprit]

For expert help and 1 to 1 observation your best friend is YouTube...……...thousands of videos showing you how to do anything with Airbrushs, from buying them, stripping them down, mixing paint, fault finding, tips and tricks, the list is endless...…..heres just one of the videos(beware!!!  Its over 2 hours long and that's just for a beginner)

 

 

 

[Bob C.]

I'll reiterate everything said above, especially that if you anticipate a long interest in this hobby, you will eventually break down and get an airbrush, with a compressor.

That being said, when I first started out being a "serious" modeler, but one with not much money, I bought myself a cheap plastic Badger airbrush ($10 - $20 in about 1973?).  It actually came with an attachment designed to connect to a car tire valve.  Now this had as many disadvantages as benefits, but I made it work (along with Badger cans) for several years.   I have no idea if something like this is even still available, but the advantages were that you weren't using ANY chemicals (other than your paint/thinner), and could transport your rig anywhere.  The main disadvantage was that you really had to overinflate the tire to guarantee sufficient power for even a medium size job.

 

Good luck.

 

Bob C

[Giorgio N]

I can add very little to the good advice you've received. My experience led me to pretty much the same conclusions posted above.

I'd like however to add a couple of points that may convince you to take the plunge and enter the world of airbrushing...

First is that today there's a huge availability of starter sets at prices that I could only dream of when I started. The presence of Chinese manufacturers together with large online retailers means that it's possible to buy a set with airbrush and compressor for less than £100.. sometimes much less than this. Not all these products are worth the money and there are many discussions on the subject in the relevant sections of the forum, but some may be good to start with without really breaking the bank. I know £ 100 for some may be a large sum but we must keep in mind that both airbrush and compressor, if properly maintained, can last for very long time. My current compressor is now 10 year old, my previous one worked for almost 20 years...

Second point: an airbrush is way more than something to lay paint on a surface quickly and without brushstrokes. An airbrush is a tool that allows a modeller to add almost any possible effect onto a model ! The same aibrush that I use to prime the model and paint the main camo scheme alsot allows me to add tonal variations, reproduce oil stains and leaks, apply weathering effects... All these can be done with brushes,but for an average modeller it's easier to do it with an airbrush. Now some may reply that not all modellers are interested in such things, and this sure makes sense. However once you have an airbrush you can decide if you want to explore further into the possibilities that this tool offers. Personally I was never bothered with tonal variations and weathering for most of the time in the hobby, then a few years ago I started experimenting and I liked what I achieved. From then on I included a number of these techniques in all my models. With an airbrush in your hands, you can decide how far you want to go

 

[s.e.charles]

ditto to the above advices. airbrush is a game changer. I would heartily recommend Badger Stynylrez primer and Not the Vallejo primer. there are several colors available. airbrushing is a steep, but short, learning curve and then like everything it's practice, practice, practice. get used to cleaning the airbrush. just like bristle brush cleaning, often it takes more time than the part just painted, but a clean brush is an enjoyable tool.

 

build a couple of "paint mules" to experiment with. there is an added thought to the construction process when airbrushing and some parts paint easier before they are added to the whole.

 

in all cases, have fun!