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Corsair F4U-1


dov

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Hello

My intention to build the Corsair of Tamiya in 1/32, I delayed a very long time. The reason was that I have a BIGSIN from Eduard. My experience in installing such Brasin components is almost entirely negative to this day.

Take the cockpit as an example. Nobody could tell me that it fits or not. A modeler has written a book about it, where the secrets for some money may be explained.

The manufacturer has made no test of fit accuracy of Brasin components in the Tamiya kit. This is what the Eduard Helpdesk has told me.

After you could even read in this forum, my funny experiences with Brasin Eduard (weapons), I am curious if I can finish the kit then or if I have to throw it away.

In the WWW, I have found no one, except the author of the said mysterious book. That is the starting position.

·        Kit: F4U-1 Tamiya

·        Eduard 63302 BIGSIN cockpit, engine, wheels

·        Eduard F4U-1 exterior          

·        SAC Gear

·        Barracuda Cals cockpit stencils and placards

·        HGW wet transfrers

·        Montex Maxi Masks mm32146

Well, if anybody can give me a hint concerning the Brasin items, please let me know.

Happy modelling

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Hallo

Now all the resin parts are clear-cut out.

To achieve this I used two special tools. The UV hyper cut and Japanese saw. Conservative tools, as finger saw, I do not use anymore. Because of accuracy and most important of all: To prevent dust from resin. The Japanese saw creates about 1/5th of this dust, and need 1/5th of energy due to the design. The UV tool no dust at all. It is my margin to the health of my family!

Happy Modelling

 

 

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Hallo

Now the showdown on the cockpit of the Corsair is done. The sidewalls do not fit with the firewall and the center tube. Sidewalls are too big in size. Look at the last two photos!

Any further trimming destroys the interior!

Any further step must be in vain, except I have a rich uncle, who would buy me three additional Tamiya kits.

The Eduard website shows us just the 3D render and not a real brasin part at all. Therefore, it may fit in theory.

No more words to this subject.

I did not use until this step any kit parts, since I am too careful with Eduard quality.

 

Happy modelling

 

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Hallo

 

Well, now I did the entire cockpit from the Tamiya kit.

The first photo shows you, where the Brasin set is wrong. The radius from the front bulkhead does not match with the center part of the fuselage. Here the radius is too big and this causes the upper sidewall on each side to be about 2 … 2,5mm too high. It would be above the kit fuselage.

Painting and Barracuda stencils I added. The worst thing is the missing counter for ammunition. I vandalized my Brasin parts. This I cut out from Eduard Brasin, which I did not install.

Actually, it is all fine now.

Three remarks to the Tamiya kit:

·        I miss the ammunition counter

·        I miss the throttle in the off position (open canopy on ground)

·        The oxygen hose and equipment

This are the major and visible flaws of the kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Happy modelling

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hallo

 

Hallo again. After a short break going to Latrun in Israel to see 100 different tanks from 1940 until today.

Well, the F4U-1 progressed. The engine: Here again Mr. Eduard failed to make the proper cowling parts for the early version, the A version from the Tamiya kit with 12 o’clock cowling flaps open! In summary I have to say, the Big Sinn is a Big S… The cockpit unsuitable, as photos in my record, the engine failed too!

The engine I did with proper wiring. Some effort, but it is worth!

The kit from Tamiya is wonderful. The only complaint I have is the wing center section. The air cooler parts should be more accurate, since proper fitting in the wing-half is prone to misalignment.

All other parts go straight ahead. For Tamiya: The instruction should have more zoom details shown. Not so easy to get along with the little drawings.

Thank you all!

 

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To see here the wing fold mechanism from the late Flying Bull Corsair!

 

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Happy modelling

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Hallo

Now nearly all plastic parts are now done. Except antennas. Most important is to watch carefully the instruction. The folded outer wing: Not to glue the inner end of the rib and spar. In my case this worked well, the folded wing slips easily over the fixed spar of the center wing!

The landing gear and the flaps, are just to do. It is a joy to work on so well designed parts.

Clear parts I will do next and spray them. But not assembling. I keep it for the last steps, due to the danger of dust.

Next session is spraying. My model I will spray all the insignia too with Montex masks.

Happy modelling

 

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Hallo

Now, the paint job is done. The blue caused me headache. Since all Navy Blues were too dark. There would have been no distinction to the insignia blue. Therefore, I choose a distinctive blue, which maybe right or wrong.

A photo from this particular a/c on the web shows a small border, probably intermediate blue, to the insignia, which may derive from the old red encircled old insignia. I will have to correct my model for this. The blue on the photo is far from a dark Navy Blue. The Tamiya painting instruction does not meet with the a/c on the original photo. Maybe at some other time, I do not know!

Because of copyright issues, I refrain from putting in the post.

The insignia I sprayed. Also the markings.

Well, so I go ahead.

Happy modelling

 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, dov said:

The blue caused me headache. Since all Navy Blues were too dark. There would have been no distinction to the insignia blue. Therefore, I choose a distinctive blue, which maybe right or wrong.

Quote

The scheme is actually four colors - white, Intermediate Blue, Semi-gloss Sea Blue (atop the wings and horizontal tail), and Non-Specular Sea Blue (atop the fuselage and on leading edges of the wings and stabs). The last two colors differ in more than the gloss factor - non-spec is distinctly grayer and lighter than the semi-gloss. I generally refer to the scheme as 4-color to clarify the differences.

 

tbf_profile01.jpg&key=1bfd1ca759213d110b

 

 

re

The scheme is actually four colors - white, Intermediate Blue, Semi-gloss Sea Blue (atop the wings and horizontal tail), and Non-Specular Sea Blue (atop the fuselage and on leading edges of the wings and stabs). The last two colors differ in more than the gloss factor - non-spec is distinctly grayer and lighter than the semi-gloss.

visible here,  

WYn4VSK.jpg

 

Note the Sea Blues are greyer than you might otherwise think, and when fresh the Insignia Blue is low contrast, just bluer

Grumman-F6F-3-Hellcat-Time-Life-color-ph

 

If the colors on your model are anything like your photos, the darkest upper surface blue is way too blue.  

 

HTH

 

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16 minutes ago, dov said:

A photo from this particular a/c on the web shows a small border, probably intermediate blue, to the insignia, which may derive from the old red encircled old insignia.

No.

the markings changed in this sequence. Note time line.

 

d9278dfe073c729585e136d1bfa72e12--logo-d

 

 

 

Vought-F4U-1-Corsair-VF-17-White-17F13-a

 

more VF-17 Corsairs here

https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Corsair/VF17.html

 

one interesting detail from the link is the faded ailerons (or old replacement parts in the earlier bluegrey color?)  and faded/mismatched ammo boxes in the wing, note the numbers on the box tops, the top of the box is the upper surface of the wing BTW

Vought-F4U-1-Corsair-VF-17-White-17F18-l

 

 

 

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Hallo

 

Oh thank you all. The blue, is in any case from the color range of Mr. Gunze not easy to meet.

I guess, my color is, as you mention too blue. The others too dark. I did a mixture of 110 and 328 in 1:1. It should have been more on 328.

I will shade my model.

Yes, I was too fixed on the instruction.

Thank you anyway, for my next Navy model.

Happy modelling

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Hallo again

Now the F4U-1 is finished. What do I have to say, or complain?

·        The kit from Tamiya is superb.

·        The instruction should be improved. The details shown are very often to guess, because a zoom, or a horizontal projection, or upright projection, or a side elevation is missing. An oblique view is in most cases just a general information.

·        The decal instruction is a joke, since it shows you how decal are placed. This instruction is in most cases illegible. The decals are in most cases illegible. So you have no idea if the placing is correct or upside down!

·        The decal material is sensitive to the use of Mr. Gunze GX series of clear vanish!

The aftermarket products, I can recommend is Barracuda Studio stencils, HGW wet transfer I did not use, but I should have.

Forget any Resin stuff, they do not work. Please read my postings, and you will have the clue!

Happy modelling

 

P.S.: Next projects will be Roland & Rumpler WW1 from WNW!

 

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