Terry1954 Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 16 hours ago, Goatdriver said: I'm getting ready to start building my F-86F, and I'm thinking that I'll use Alcad II aluminum for the skin--any suggestions on which is more appropriate, their Aluminum or Airframe Aluminum or ? Thanks. I've used Alclad quite a bit, usually successfully, but as some on here know, also with challenges! I would say that getting contracts is the best on a pure NMF airframe and it's often best to experiment between different shades. From memory I have used Airframe Aluminium, Aluminium, Dark Aluminium, Dull Aluminium, High Speed Silver and Duraluminium. I think Aluminium, Dull Aluminium and Duraluminium work well together, but I should take notes when I use them for better records going forward! These three are all finished in Alclad, but each quite differently: I think the key is to get some good reference pictures and try to emulate the tonal variations. In some pictures of the real thing, the darker wing centre section can look just that, darker, yet in others I've seen it comes out paler. It all depends on light direction and shadow etc, which in real life can vary immensely IMHO. Believe it or not, on my next Sabre, I'm probably going to try some Humbrol enamels, just to see what that comes out like! Terry 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 15 minutes ago, Terry1954 said: Believe it or not, on my next Sabre, I'm probably going to try some Humbrol enamels, just to see what that comes out like! Terry Go for it, Terry! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbob Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) On 10/1/2019 at 12:42 AM, Sabrejet said: It's a defining feature of all F-86Fs and not seen on other versions: Very interesting- but what is it there for, and why only on Fs? (I'm no Sabre savant, but I don't recall ever noticing such a prominent "scab"!) By the way, I just checked in on page 5, which had only two posts at the time, then got sidetracked by the above on page 4, so I guess now I've got to return to start (and collect $200?) bob Edited October 7, 2019 by gingerbob 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldwin8 Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 38 minutes ago, gingerbob said: Very interesting- but what is it there for, and why only on Fs? (I'm no Sabre savant, but I don't recall ever noticing such a prominent "scab"!) @Steve in Ottawa and I have been researching the Canadair Sabres and trying to sort out the differences. While the Canadair Sabre 5 and 6's have the "sugar scoops" installed in the lower position (left and right) the F have this ventilation type panel. Only assuming it is for extra ventilation required for the different engines installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 @Courageous Stuart, I was looking for decent color photos of Korean War Sabres that showed the anodized wing spar area for your build, and I found this 4th FIW photo collection. Some of the photos show what that area looked like- I hope they are useful for you and other Sabre savants! @Sabrejet most likely has the original color slides in his archives! My best modeling buddy's dad was a crew chief with the 4th and crewed Robbie Risner's and Vermont Garrison;'s F-86F's. Had the honor of meeting Risner at a 4th FG reunion several years back- a real gentleman and class act- flew Thuds in SEA and was shot down and a guest at the infamous Hanoi Hilton, He lived here in San Antonio for a while. There's a photo of Risner in this collection, and I've attached a link to some information on him that you or others might find of interest. (Sorry for the diversion and the thread hijack, but seeing the photos reminded me of him.) Your Sabre is getting there- can't wait to see her on her pegs! Mike http://yocumusa.com/sweetrose//images/2018sabrefuguide/4fiw899.htm https://www.nytimes.com/2013/10/28/us/robinson-risner-ace-fighter-pilot-dies-at-88.html 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatdriver Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 Thanks for all the suggestions on Alclad colors. I think I'll buy a few different aluminum shades and try them out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 On 10/7/2019 at 6:11 PM, 72modeler said: Your Sabre is getting there- can't wait to see her on her pegs! Cheers Mike. A relatively slow week just doing odds-n-sods. Wheel bays painted an interior green, washed with Nuln oil and dry-brushed with interior green and Humbrol 11 Silver. Glazing added to front end and when dry, I'm sure a little filler and sanding will be required. Fuel pylons attached to tanks. Tanks, pylons and stabilizers painted with Tamiya AS-12. Brake lines added to main legs. Legs and doors painted with Tamiya AS-12, washed with Nuln oil and dry-brushed with Humbrol 11 Silver. Next week will be making good the front windscreen area and then it'll be a paint job...possibly. Stuart 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 Tamiya AS-12 decanted and sprayed with an airbrush is my go-to paint for this kind of finish too - great choice All in all, nice progress Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 1 hour ago, Courageous said: Cheers Mike. A relatively slow week just doing odds-n-sods. Wheel bays painted an interior green, washed with Nuln oil and dry-brushed with interior green and Humbrol 11 Silver. Glazing added to front end and when dry, I'm sure a little filler and sanding will be required. Fuel pylons attached to tanks. Tanks, pylons and stabilizers painted with Tamiya AS-12. Brake lines added to main legs. Legs and doors painted with Tamiya AS-12, washed with Nuln oil and dry-brushed with Humbrol 11 Silver. Next week will be making good the front windscreen area and then it'll be a paint job...possibly. Stuart I like your details there, Stuart. I have to confess to be less attentive to such things :(. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 16 minutes ago, giemme said: All in all, nice progress Cheers Giorgio. I have been thinking about decanting but not too sure how to go about doing that without making a bloody mess! 7 minutes ago, RidgeRunner said: I like your details there, Stuart. I have to confess to be less attentive to such things :(. Cheers martin. The adding of the brake lines has only started from the Avon Sabre and it's easy to do. The wheel bays, legs and inner doors again, are simple enough to do but being underneath, can easily be missed as nobody sees it. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 Just now, Courageous said: 12 minutes ago, RidgeRunner said: I like your details there, Stuart. I have to confess to be less attentive to such things :(. Cheers martin. The adding of the brake lines has only started from the Avon Sabre and it's easy to do. The wheel bays, legs and inner doors again, are simple enough to do but being underneath, can easily be missed as nobody sees it. Stuart Just missed your post and got the legs on mine today! :(. Next time ..... Martin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 55 minutes ago, Courageous said: I have been thinking about decanting but not too sure how to go about doing that without making a bloody mess! Stuart, there's plenty of video on how to do it on Youtube, but all in all is fairly simple: you need a straw, ideally of the kind that bends, a glass jar and some cling film. You fit one end of the straw to the rattle can nozzle (I use blue tac and tape to hold it in place), place some cling film on top of the glass jar and pierce through it with the other end of the straw (better cut it at a 45° angle). Spray away till you're happy with the amount of paint, then remove the cling film, put the lid on the jar without screwing it on, so as to leave a gap for the propellant gas to evaporate. I normally leave it like that overnight, then I put the lid on tight. The decanted paint can be sprayed directly through your airbrush; if I need to thin it down more, I use cellulose thinner HTH Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 Other things going on but found time for a small update. Tamiya AS-12 on. Time to think about masking the nose like the small pic. No problem with the red and black but that NMF strip on the tip will be a bit tricky. Stuart 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Nice progress Stuart As for the nose masking, I think Tamiya Tape for Curves is your friend, here Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 18 minutes ago, giemme said: As for the nose masking, I think Tamiya Tape for Curves is your friend, here Thanks Giorgio. You may very well right but I will need to trim down my 2mm to something more in scale. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) Stuart, what I've got is a couple of spares from the Aeromaster decal sheet.... One on top of the nose and the smaller to do the underside. The decals have a silver edge included, They're going spare and if you want to try them, I can stick 'em in the post and you're welcome Doh!!!!! I just did a double check on the scale..... This is in 1.72 My spares are 1.48 Sorry about that Edited October 25, 2019 by rob Lyttle Correction 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 My next suggestion is to foil the radome area complete with border and then apply the black area,, leaving the Ali "seam" showing. That's a dainty little brush job, or just dotted on with a cocktail stick. You can always tidy up a wobbly edge with a blade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Stuart, I'm thinking you might mask that silver surround to the gunsight ranging radar radome after you spray the airframe silver; then you can use black decal stock to make the radome. Or, you could spray a section of spare decal silver, then mask and paint the black radome and apply to the intake lip. Save the mask for the radome so you can use it to paint other models....you ARE going to do more Sabres, right? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Courageous said: Other things going on but found time for a small update. Tamiya AS-12 on. Time to think about masking the nose like the small pic. No problem with the red and black but that NMF strip on the tip will be a bit tricky. Stuart Easy, Stuart. After airbrushing the NMF stick a piece of wide tape across the aperture and cut around leaving a mm or so. When you airbrush the red you will find that you will get that thin NMF border. Then you can hand brush the NMF for the sensor and then hand brush the black.i did it this way on my FJ-4. It worked fine. Martin Edited October 25, 2019 by RidgeRunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VT Red Sox Fan Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 @Courageous—awesome build with awesome inputs from across the forum—see many folks I have a great deal of respect for providing inputs—like many others I will benchmark your awesome work for my future F-86 build—tracking now with interest—best,Erwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 12 hours ago, Courageous said: Thanks Giorgio. You may very well right but I will need to trim down my 2mm to something more in scale. Stuart I was more thinking along a similar line as for the comments that followed, to wit: NMF base, masking for red up to the nearest edge with that silver strip, then spray red, then masking for black up to the other edge, then spray black. No need for trimming. Hope it makes sense to you Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 12 hours ago, rob Lyttle said: Doh!!!!! I just did a double check on the scale..... Cheers for the offer Rob. Thanks for the suggestions @rob Lyttle, @72modeler, @RidgeRunner and @giemme...watch this space. 7 hours ago, VT Red Sox Fan said: awesome build with awesome inputs from across the forum—see many folks I have a great deal of respect for providing inputs—like many others I will benchmark your awesome work for my future F-86 build—tracking now with interest—best,Erwin Your welcome Erwin, glad I and we can help. Not a bad bunch here, very knowledgeable and helpful. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 @rob Lyttle, why don't you build in 1/72 as I need a few of these: Fortunately, a club member has cobbled together 1/72 versions that I'll have to print myself. Problem is, I'm not quite sure whether to use clear or white decal paper. Either way, it will need some skillful masking and cutting...that's me out then. Stuart 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 20 minutes ago, Courageous said: @rob Lyttle, why don't you build in 1/72 as I need a few of these: Fortunately, a club member has cobbled together 1/72 versions that I'll have to print myself. Problem is, I'm not quite sure whether to use clear or white decal paper. Either way, it will need some skillful masking and cutting...that's me out then. Stuart Nah, you can do it, Stuart 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Courageous said: Either way, it will need some skillful masking and cutting...that's me out then. I'm with @RidgeRunner, you can do it. Brand new scalpel blade, deep breaths, work slowly, a doddle for a man of your caliber! Terry 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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