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Mitsubishi L3M1 Nippon (derivative of G3M) Arii (ex LS) 1/72


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My goodness you're a machine the way you are pumping these out, I once had this kit, but I am sure mine didn't have the rivets across the hinomaru, just the flat circle, which looked out of place.

I tried filling and sanding and it worked the best, but that was about 40 years ago when references were very hard to find, and I no longer have this one, got damaged in a move and since given away I think, don't think I have ever thrown away a model. 

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6 hours ago, Graeme H said:

I tried filling and sanding and it worked the best, but that was about 40 years ago when references were very hard to find, and I no longer have this one, got damaged in a move and since given away I think, don't think I have ever thrown away a model. 

It is in model heaven now.

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More painting ensues:

IMG_5762+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

Meanwhile the wing halves have been united. 

The pips and dimples that are supposed to align them do not work well, and the pips are better eliminated. I had instead enlarged the dimples, but still had to really clamp the parts together for a good joint. Otherwise a somewhat thick hairline gap would show at the trailing edge.

The leading edge will require putty, because aligning the parts at the trailing edge will produce a visible step at the leading edge. As it is often seen in kits, the seams around the engine nacelles are uneven, needing filling and sanding:

IMG_5763+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

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On 12 August 2019 at 11:46 PM, Moa said:

The hinomaru placement mark (I know...), the hail dimples or golf ball rivets, but quite restrained panel lines. My idea is to sand the surfaces quite a bit to reduce those golf ball dimples to their minimum expressions, and refresh the panel lines if needed:

Hi Moa, a little late but you could apply correction fluid to the rivets, let it dry and remove the excess with alcohol or even white spirit. Martin

 

ps. GoOd work, by the way :)

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On 8/18/2019 at 1:49 PM, RidgeRunner said:

Hi Moa, a little late but you could apply correction fluid to the rivets, let it dry and remove the excess with alcohol or even white spirit. Martin

 

ps. GoOd work, by the way :)

That's good advice, Martin, but two things deter me from doing that:

a) There are many correction fluids in the market, some are "green", some are harsh, and I don't want to run the risk of starting to find which solvents work and in the process mess things up, and surely filling the panel lines too, which I would have to re-scribe (again, see below).
b) There are so many rows of rivets, that I would have to spend the rest of my years doing that.

I lightly sanded everything. As I suspected the panel lines (which are faintly engraved) almost disappeared before I even made a dent on the potholes. So I had to re-scribe them and I left it there.

I love to turn toads into swans, but I overestimated this kit, and, even if it is indeed a nice kit for its time, you can do so much without having to re-invent the wheel. Airfix's Anson in that respect, strangely enough, is a more pliable raw material.

I love to open all doors and hatches in these endeavors, but lack of reliable information regarding the interior of this specific machine prevented that part of the fun, so I am letting this one be as it is, with one or two refinements and that's that.

I am really concerned about the decals, which I just examined. They are of the overly thick type many times seen in Japanese kits, you know, the thick pancake type, that usually ruins the appearance of models, presenting a step visible from two yards away.

We´ll see how that goes.

 

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The fuselage halves are glued together, other elements are completed and ready to go in in due time. The way the prop axle assembly is designed is very clever, allowing to put the prop on after everything is done, contrary to the tiring universal arrangement of a prop axle that goes through every component and is held in place by a eyelet, hindering painting in most cases:

IMG_5765+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

The kit's decals do not provide the double red line for the tip of the propeller blades, so I tried to use old discarded decals that, as it is their wont, disintegrated at the mere sight of water. The remainder was varnished in hopes it will hold:

IMG_5766+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

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11 hours ago, Courageous said:

Will be interesting to see if those decals work...

 

Stuart

They partially did (two of the first three small pieces I cut), but I got tired of handling them oh so very carefully, and I ended up finding another suitable discarded decal that provided a thin red line -like the movie-, but I had to apply them in this case one by one, 12 of them.

 

IMG_5779+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

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A warning note:

Parts 33 and 34 are the aileron/flap actuators.

Parts 31 and 32 are deceivingly depicted in the instructions also as actuators, seemingly connecting the moving surfaces with the wing, which is incorrect, since they are just the counterweights and should only be attached to the control surfaces in a way that the weight at the end of the part is more or less aligned with the datum line.

Somebody was asleep at LS/Arii:

IMG_5807+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

%2524%2528KGrHqR%252C%2521oQE-yuj4iNQBP6

 

87024d3dc9b039e4052c3e4cfece0885.jpg

 

4806265340_a36ac709db_o.jpg

 

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A test with a spare decal form the same sheet corroborated my concerns, the carrier is thick and conspicuous. All images will require close trimming of the carrier, and large decals should be cut into individual subjects as free of carrier as possible (photos taken one day after application and after two sessions with decal solution). I can see some mild tendency to silvering too:

IMG_5808+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

IMG_5809+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

IMG_5810+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

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First coat of primer is airbrushed. The canopy was masked just to preserve it for the moment, since I ordered a masks set that is actually meant for the Hasegawa kit, but I am hopeful that at least it will be partially useful, since there are so many panes in this one. I still have to fabricate the round hatch for the spine, which has a radial window arrangement:

IMG_5830+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

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