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Merlin

face painting using oils step by step visual guide wanted

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Hi,

hours and hours of searching, cannot find a decent well illustrated CLOSE UP step by step of a head/face being painted showing how it progresses, the end result being a real classy piece of work.

Using the classic method of mixing flesh using white, yellow, red and blue.

All google turns up is acrylics. Its as if no one has ever done a quality step by step, also showing use on garment etc, .

 

Merlin

 

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Any use to you?

https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-miniatures-by-danilo-cartacci.52337/

There's a bit about painting faces in oil.

Amazon have it as an e-book for a tenner.

 

The PlanetFigure forum also has an oil painting sub forum.

https://www.planetfigure.com/forums/oils.210/

https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-faces-with-oils.116177/

 

Mart

Edited by LotusArenco

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I have a book that I used  when I first started face painting,found it a good book on all aspects of painting a face and skin,it's from the AK learning series,Techniques to paint all types of flesh in miniatures (Flesh & Skin),you can check it out on line by reading the reviews and it comes in PDF if you like things that way,Cheers.

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Hi,

the book I saw but discovered he uses acrylics.

AK book also I see acrylic pots.

For a step by step well illustrated face in oils I still havent found anything, its most bizarre. Oils give far better results in the hands of a mediocre average modeller yet they choose acrylics and consequently tide marks as they lack the extra skills required to try and blend materials not suitable for blending without a lot of hard work and speed given the drying time of acrylics.

 

Merlin

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Anything your not sure about, want to learn or improve your skills, always, especially before posting on these forums(you get so many tips here it can be so confusing in the end and usually only works for one person) Always check out YouTube...…….the answer to everything is there, just a matter of checking, try this, this is just ONE tutorial of many:-

 

 

 

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On 8/11/2019 at 4:50 PM, Merlin said:

Hi,

the book I saw but discovered he uses acrylics.

AK book also I see acrylic pots.

For a step by step well illustrated face in oils I still havent found anything, its most bizarre. Oils give far better results in the hands of a mediocre average modeller yet they choose acrylics and consequently tide marks as they lack the extra skills required to try and blend materials not suitable for blending without a lot of hard work and speed given the drying time of acrylics.

 

Merlin

Acrylics drying-time can be greatly increased by adding Flow Improver / Drying Inhibitor (not too sure what the correct name is...) Good luck in your quest for finding what you're after.

 

Chris. 

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Spruecutter96, noted on delaying acrylic, oils take 3 days to dry (if kept cool) so no having to watch the clock though I would stick to 2 days, not sure if acrylics with retarder allow such come back and carry on as that,. I also wouldnt want to find they havent dried. and remain tacky. I once added the correct amount of retarder to acrylic, sprayed it out, still tacky weeks later, put me off somewhat !

 

Watcher,..,...Great,  MANY thanks for the Mike Roof link, excellent,.

 

also wish for a 1/48 Hampden as noted at IPMS Lancashire logo. (without trench lines, so wish Tamiya would do it)

 

Merlin

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If you are using water soluble acrylics (for example Citadel) you can use wet pallete to keep your paints and paint mixes wet and ready to work with. The longest I had it was a week (actually I had one wet pallete laying around for a month, by the looks of the paint it looked still good but when opened it smelled like a mold got into it so it went stright to the trash can).

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Here's a great guide to figure (aircrew) painting.  They've  got a downloadable pdf version of the whole thing.  I refer to this every single time I try to paint a figure.  Now I only wish my results were as good as theirs.  :shrug:

 

I'll keep practicing.  Endlessly.  :whistle:

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Hi,

Thanks, another useful link and guide there, pity the last two links at the last page are dead.

Asking folk recently why use acrylics with all the extra hassle involved of having to paint layer by layer the contours to represent the blending as opposed to simply swirl and mix from highlight to midtone and midtone to shadow using oils, I was told its easier to buy the colour in a pot rather than have to mix it with tubes called burnt sienna, paynes grey etc as opposed to buying Vallejo Wehrmacht green or GI brown. As such thats folk not knowing the basics of colour mixing, but they are also after repeatability when with oils one has to attempt to mix that shade every time. All it needs is a means of saving the oil mix to be used again and again, but no one does mini containers airtight, small enough to put a mix into, something like 5mm dia x 10mm tall with a means of excluding air at the top. That would then just require the scooping up and trying to get the paint into the pot, also not easy.

Another method was lots of minute dots as if printed which when viewed at distance looks like a blend, all because acrylics dry and dont blend easily, the base layer midtone not remaining wet enough and if it was wet there is the chance of the applied highlight dissolving wider than required, whilst oils remain wet and dont 'auto blend'. Add retarders but no 3 days workability , correct me if I am wrong, and a chance of never drying.

 

Merlin

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