Whitley Mk III - Fly 1/72

[The Spadgent]

On 8/29/2019 at 8:46 AM, CedB said:

"Ding back" - what's that Jont?

Stupid auto correct that’s what. It was meant to read. “Find black” as in how do you find black primer.

I never considered it as I pre shade but I thought you used it instead of pre shading. Great painting by the way. I must get some squadron putty. I have a lot of camo in my future. 🤗

[CedB]

20 hours ago, keefr22 said:

 

Are they not available in the Northern Eastern part of Ireland Tony? As Ced said, drive up before the 31st and fill the boot of the car up - they'll never notice !!!

 

Whitley's looking lovely Ced - well as lovely as a Whitley can!

 

Keith

Thanks Keith  

17 hours ago, limeypilot said:

I'm so glad you had that issue now as I was pondering how to paint the Heinkel and you just answered my question!

"Ced the sacrificial"! Thanks!

 

Ian

You're very welcome Ian  

13 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

Stupid auto correct that’s what. It was meant to read. “Find black” as in how do you find black primer.

I never considered it as I pre shade but I thought you used it instead of pre shading. Great painting by the way. I must get some squadron putty. I have a lot of camo in my future. 🤗

Ah, “Find black”, got it  

I'll sometimes use black primer for lighter undersides and, like this one, grey for darker ones.

I've never got on well with my pre-shading attempts - I think I'm too clumsy with the airbrush and lack the patience - so the primer lets me 'hide' this by representing my poor attempts at painting as 'variation'. Sometimes it goes well, others I have to go over the last coat and go for 'factory fresh'. I guess I need to practice more and develop my skills; many have tried to help but most (like you) have the artistic skills I lack. Give me a hammer any day…

 

The Panzer Putty is great if you get used to its foibles; too thick and it creeps. I think the cheaper versions have other problems so I can only recommend the one I use from MXpression. In preference I'll always go for cut templates but these rarely work (for me) across the fuselage so the putty really comes into its own. YMMV!

 

Touched up this morning:

 

 

Soon, I'll take off the lower masking and check for problems on the demarcation line - fingers crossed.

 

Then it's the bent engines, gloss coat and transfers.

After a matt coat I can then fit the aerial wire, landing lights and turrets.

 

Not long now.

[CedB]

I won't keep you waiting any longer:

 

 

Problems? The curved demarcations turned out OK:

 

 

 

Gap behind the cowing (gaaah) and spot pulled off on the fuselage underside - weird - and a bit of creep on the wing root:

 

 

 

This lump has been scraped off ready for a touch up:

 

 

Nothing major though. Good!

[giemme]

She looks good from the top, Ced

 

Edit: and from underneath too

 

 Ciao

[CedB]

Thanks Giorgio

 

Now touched up and drying before the gloss coat. Modelling has been hampered a bit by the puppy who's Mum has popped out to see a friend:

 

 

One handed modelling is not to be recommended!

[bbudde]

11 minutes ago, CedB said:

Modelling has been hampered

Sorry to see you that handicapped , really Ced

[Brandy]

The paintwork looks great. If I only have 2 or 3 touchups to do I'm a happy bunny!

 

Ian

[keefr22]

Pup is growing rapidly Ced! Hope Molls is still progressing well...

 

Keith

[dogsbody]

5 hours ago, CedB said:

Thanks Giorgio

 

Now touched up and drying before the gloss coat. Modelling has been hampered a bit by the puppy who's Mum has popped out to see a friend:

 

 

One handed modelling is not to be recommended!

 

Puppers before plastic. Give the wee woofer a hug for me.

 

 

Chris

[CedB]

20 hours ago, bbudde said:

Sorry to see you that handicapped , really Ced

Thanks Ben  

17 hours ago, limeypilot said:

The paintwork looks great. If I only have 2 or 3 touchups to do I'm a happy bunny!

 

Ian

Thanks Ian - I'm sure your Heinkel will be great!  

15 hours ago, keefr22 said:

Pup is growing rapidly Ced! Hope Molls is still progressing well...

 

Keith

Thanks Keith  Tilly is getting bigger, slowly, and can't really curl up on your lap anymore, despite her best efforts. She's gone home now though so peace has been restored.

We had Mol's test results back and she's got a Staph infection so she's on antibiotics - looking better already.

14 hours ago, dogsbody said:

 

Puppers before plastic. Give the wee woofer a hug for me.

 

 

Chris

Done! Thanks Chris  

 

 

Cowlings this morning.

I started by glueing in the exhausts with CA on the basis that the big grooves on the kit would locate them correctly:

 

 

Now the cowlings don't fit as well:

 

 

Rats.

I wonder if the design intended the engines to be left on the block and glued to the nacelle, despite the diagram?

Too late now.

The engines were CA'd into the cowlings:

 

 

Which for some reason didn't want to stick, despite quite a tight fit.

Tube glue was then applied to the top of the cowlings and both lined up as best I could, using the panel lines on the nacelle:

 

 

 

Best I'm going to get and good enough for the ceiling.

And yes, I have some painting to do…

[giemme]

This kit is fighting you till the end, but you're going to prevail  👏 

 

Ciao

 

 

[CedB]

Thanks Giorgio - I shall win!  

 

Transfers on:

 

 

 

Easy. Unless you knock the MicroSet all over the bench.

[bbudde]

Looks very nice and tidy. Good job on an obviously not so easy kit.

Cheers

[keefr22]

That's looks stunning Ced, great stuff!! Shame about the microset though!

 

Keith

[perdu]

You do it on purpose don't you?

 

Make life harder than it needs be, but that looks excellent

 

Very nice, er is there supposed to be an unpainted looking line round behind the engine cowling?

 

I ask simply because I know next to nothing about the Whitley (although I was a little awestruck looking at the Whitley tail section on display at Coventry a while back after you had left the museum that day, so flimsy...)

 

She looks very nice

[CedB]

8 hours ago, bbudde said:

Looks very nice and tidy. Good job on an obviously not so easy kit.

Cheers

Thanks Ben  

 

2 hours ago, keefr22 said:

That's looks stunning Ced, great stuff!! Shame about the microset though!

 

Keith

Thanks Keith  Not to worry, I have another bottle in case of accidents!

 

1 hour ago, perdu said:

Very nice, er is there supposed to be an unpainted looking line round behind the engine cowling?

11 hours ago, CedB said:

And yes, I have some painting to do…

 

Thanks Bill  I'm doing it, I'm doing it!

Later…

 

[CedB]

Painted behind the cowlings and matt coated.

 

WHAT THE…!!

 

 

 

Grrrrrnnnngggghhh

 

Despite (what I thought was a) good gloss coat there's silvering / bubbles.

When I get some mojo to sort this I'll attack them with a scalpel where I think they're not adhering properly and hit the rest with DullCote.

 

Lesson - check for silvering before applying the matt coat.

Idiot.

[perdu]

A good shine reflects light, if it doesn't reflect light it won't hide the air bubbles

[Biggles87]

Oh dear, ( or words to that effect ) how terribly frustrating. You could probably cut the film away from around the S quite easily, but the serial would be difficult.

 

John

 

 

[Brandy]

Ouch, that's some very nasty silvering. I hope you can get it sorted!

 

Ian

[giemme]

21 minutes ago, limeypilot said:

Ouch, that's some very nasty silvering. I hope you can get it sorted!

 

Ian

Seconded  - and really upsetting finding it out now .... 

 

Ciao

[hendie]

Ced, how do you lay down your transfers ? 

I always wet the surface with Micro(set?)* then slide the transfer onto that, then slide it around until it's just out of position enough to annoy me for the rest of my life.  I usually add a drop or two more of the micro(set?)* to aid the push and drag motions.

Once the transfer is in position, I wait a few minutes to let it settle down.  Now I take a piece of kitchen towel wrapped around finger number one, dip it (the finger and the towel) in water, then roll the encapsulated digit on something to squeeze out the excess water, but still leaving it quite damp - just not dripping.  I then attack the transfer - starting just to the side of the transfer, I roll the wet towel/finger combination over the transfer back and forth a few times to squeeze out any trapped air. I may do that in several directions depending upon the underlying features

Only after I've done that do I apply Micro(sol?)* - usually several applications over a modeling session regardless of how easy the transfer went down.

 

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious but in my defense, my member title does state my role.  It just struck me that the degree of silvering, along with the apparent 'pattern' may indicate something in the technique.  Feel free to throw a stick at me.

 

 

 

* - It took me ages to find out which one to lay down first - sol then set, or set then sol,  and I can never remember, so I just labelled my bottles 1 & 2

 

 

Edited September 2, 2019 by hendie

[CedB]

Thanks Bill, John, Ian and Giorgio for the support  

 

27 minutes ago, hendie said:

Ced, how do you lay down your transfers ? 

I always wet the surface with Micro(set?)* then slide the transfer onto that, then slide it around until it's just out of position enough to annoy me for the rest of my life.  I usually add a drop or two more of the micro(set?)* to aid the push and drag motions.

Once the transfer is in position, I wait a few minutes to let it settle down.  Now I take a piece of kitchen towel wrapped around finger number one, dip it (the finger and the towel) in water, then roll the encapsulated digit on something to squeeze out the excess water, but still leaving it quite damp - just not dripping.  I then attack the transfer - starting just to the side of the transfer, I roll the wet towel/finger combination over the transfer back and forth a few times to squeeze out any trapped air. I may do that in several directions depending upon the underlying features

Only after I've done that do I apply Micro(sol?)* - usually several applications over a modeling session regardless of how easy the transfer went down.

 

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious but in my defense, my member title does state my role.  It just struck me that the degree of silvering, along with the apparent 'pattern' may indicate something in the technique.  Feel free to throw a stick at me.

 

 

 

* - It took me ages to find out which one to lay down first - sol then set, or set then sol,  and I can never remember, so I just labelled my bottles 1 & 2

 

 

Thanks Hendie, that's a good tip  

My technique is similar; gloss coat with W&N or Klear until shiny and leave to dry. 

Transfer in warm water, wet surface with MicroSet using a medium flat brush, slide on the transfer and position.

I then dab the brush on some kitchen towel and use it to soak up any excess fluid then use it to brush down the transfer trying to expel any bubbles/creases.

I then roll a Tamiya cotton bud over the top to press it down. Usually works. 

 

I pinched your idea for numbering the bottles too:

 

 

Thanks!

 

These went down well and I didn't notice any silvering. I've cut around the serials with a small blade and picked off the carrier - it did seem to be a bit 'powdery'; I've had this before and wonder if it's some sort of reaction? Anyway, they're done now and, with a coat of DullCote, are good enough:

 

 

 

At last I can remove the masks.

When my nerves are settled!

[giemme]

Looks a great save to me, Ced   

 

Ciao

[Brandy]

32 minutes ago, hendie said:

 It took me ages to find out which one to lay down first - sol then set, or set then sol,  and I can never remember, so I just labelled my bottles 1 & 2

🤣 I do exactly the same

 Big black marker numbers on the lids!

Nice save Ced, they look good now!

 

Ian

Edited September 2, 2019 by limeypilot