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Merlin

what paint would airbrush then wash away with water later on ?

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Posted (edited)

Hi,

wondering if I could paint an awkward gun turret for which there are no pre-cut masks and its a compound curve for all of its shape, by cutting masking kamoi strips, or use the white tamiya stuff for curves, lay that where the bars are, spray the 'paint X'  peel away my strips to now have a sprayed on mask.

 

Spray it with enamels.

when cured simply apply water and watch the water based 'paint X' flow away, leaving my frames .

 

so what 'paint X' could I use that would spray then resist penetration of enamels else they would fog the glazing, then wash away without harming the glazing ?

 

Merlin

Edited by Merlin

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Why wouldn't you just use masking fluid? Which is specially designed for this? 

To my knowledge a waterbased paint will not re-hydrate with water once it's dry. Alcohol works on it, but it will most likely leave marks on the enamel too.

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I don't fully understand the question? Maybe post a picture of what you're trying to paint and I think that would help me to give a more informed answer..

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Childrens' art paint is water soluble after it has dried. The liquid version can be thinned for spraying

But I doubt it will do what you want it to do

If you are going to mask the frame lines with tape; just paint strips of tape the required colour(s) and apply cut strips on the frames.

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I understand the question now. You're wanting to mask the framing with tape, spray some paint to protect the glazing, remove the tape from the framing, spray the framing with paint, then wash off the paint on the glazing to leave the framing only painted. Seems a very long winded  process to paint the framing. You could use decal sheet and spray that the correct colour, then cut into strips of the correct width and apply to the framing, or just mask the whole canopy with wide tape and trim the framing, leaving the glazing masked, then spray the framing...

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I'm not sure it would work, but AMMO have a "washable" range of paints in various shades.  I'd do some serious testing before using it on a precious canopy though. :hmmm:

 

For reference I use yellow Tamiya tape for compound curves and found their white "curves" masking tape too thick to overlay, as it allows paint underneath.  Cut strips of Tamiya/kabuki tape and lay them along the framelines and then fill in the compound curves with masking fluid or scrap tape.  Use your sharpest blade to cut the tape to avoid any snags :)

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Posted (edited)
Quote

Steve Noble I understand the question now. You're wanting to mask the framing with tape, spray some paint to protect the glazing, remove the tape from the framing, spray the framing with paint, then wash off the paint on the glazing to leave the framing only painted.

Correct.

 

Quote

Seems a very long winded  process to paint the framing. You could use decal sheet and spray that the correct colour, then cut into strips of the correct width and apply to the framing,

If I cut decal sheet transparent into strips the width of the canopy framing, I would have to expect the strip to lift clear of the remainder and take with it the interior frame colour and the outer frame colour, a few layers of paint sprayed on for interior followed when dry by exterior will not see that decal strip lift clear and a perfect edge of paint come with it, imagine it, the paint I have applied will cover the cut line and go onto the decal either side of the strip, why should the paint break free perfectly along that cut line when I lift the decal ? If I score back along the line I need to follow exactly the original cut which is a failure waiting to happen and it might not score without some difficulty, maybe the paint drags or scags...

Then I have this not so flexible strip of decal to try and fight into place over a compound curve, as my turret is domed like an Avro Anson.  so decal solution but I want to be able to manoeuvre the strip and my use of microsol and set saw a decal take hold and not want to move. Klear painted on is better but can be a sticky mess at the edges when wicked away with cotton bud.

 

Quote

or just mask the whole canopy with wide tape and trim the framing, leaving the glazing masked, then spray the framing...

at 1/72 scale an avro anson canopy is a lot of small glazing panels.

 

My idea dispensed with all those potential dangers.

If I can lay on the masking tape which will be just tape thickness, no paint to lessen its bend, no need for decal solvents and whetever they might do to the glazing, over the frames, spray between with the requested water soluble liquid, lift masking off, spray interior then exterior colour, cure, wash off the water soluble, seems easy peasy, the simplest way of all, to me anyway. No compound curves to fight decal strips onto, no masking off many little panels. no worry about paint not staying perfect on a strip of decal, no worries about painted decal pulling away with paint perfect along its edges from remainder of decal sheets. all those snags dont exist. Involves laying down one strip per frame not two, no maskol or kamoi cut and placed in between, time saved .

Where in this process is there a tricky stage ? I reckon its a very good idea in fact.

I need to try the AMMO washables. do a test piece.  In modelling there are moments a new method is born, and we wonder why we didnt have that or do that before, this may be it.

 

Quote

Black Knight...If you are going to mask the frame lines with tape; just paint strips of tape the required colour(s) and apply cut strips on the frames.

I dont expect the adhesive on the tape to remain as good as the day it was made over time, also the compound curve will see the edges lift a bit.

 

Quote

bmwh548....Why wouldn't you just use masking fluid? Which is specially designed for this? 

painting masking fluid as perfect straight lines is VERY DIFFICULT, far easier to lay down strips of masking tape, spray the water sol paint, and peel off the tape.

 

Merlin

Edited by Merlin

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There's no paint or water soluble liquid that I know of that you can spray in and wash off later. Several ways to do this have been posted already. In my opinion, just mask the glazing with tape and masking fluid, spray the framing, then remove the tape and masking fluid to leave the painted framing. That's the way I would do it. I think you're making this whole process over complicated and over thinking it. If it's an Avro Anson that you're building, it's not that complicated a masking job. Just basic tape and masking fluid required...

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There's a way to do it the other way around: Most Water based acrylics are not affected by turpentine. So use enamels as masking paint to be washed away with turpentine and water based acrylics as lasting paint. Or maybe use the hairspray method?

 

In both cases test it out first!!!

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On 10/08/2019 at 00:42, Merlin said:

I would have to expect the strip to lift clear

As Steve said above, I also think you're overthinking and overcomplicating this.

The suggestion to use decal was I'm sure exactly that, apply decal, finished.

I've used this method lots of times, build the model, fit the canopy, fair it in and polish.

Mask the whole canopy including any "greenhouse" framing.

Paint the model. Whilst painting the model, spray a strip of clear decal film first with the interior colour then with the exterior colour.

Remove canopy mask, cut decal into strips the width of the canopy framing, and apply frames.

If there's a lot of framing, best to do in several sessions, eg fit vertical frames first, then add horizontals once dry etc.

Once dry seal with gloss varnish, touch up frames with matt or satin varnish applied with a fine brush if required.

Done, stand back and admire.

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I've never had any luck with spraying decal sheet in order to make canopy frames. I always find that the paint cracks when the decal is soaked or when it is applied to the canopy.

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