stevehnz Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 (edited) About time I signed into this seeing as there is only a month to go, I've just started this over the last few days & its going together quite nicely so I don't anticipate any hassles finishing on time. I'll put some photos up tomorrow, though if anybody can give me a definitive answer as to the colours for this (the camo version) I was thinking Dark green, Dark Sea Grey & PRU Blue but when I look it up I get every colour variation possible just about but nothing definite. As usual the Revell colour calls are specific to Revell paints & the underside is mainly grey 57 (97%) with (3%) Blue 56, barely enough to give PRU Blue I wonder. I've mainly got Humbrol paints to play with. Steve. Edited September 1, 2019 by stevehnz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 (edited) OK, some progress shots, starting with an unstarted kit show. The instructions said 10 gms of weight in the nose, yeah right, so where is the pilot gong to put his feet. Not having a accurate gram scale, I broke out my reloading scale & using a conversion of 15.4 grains to a gram, I weighed out 155 grams of lead shot & packeding as much as possible into the nose & then under the cockpit floor behind the nose wheel bay & behind the pilots seat. I managed to get about 2/3rds of it in place using 5 minute expoxy to hold it together. I then taped it all together to have a try out for balance. It looked rather like a Vampire I thought. Check out the lead shot in the cannon bay, I was getting desperate. A cocktail stick for a pivot in line with where the undercarriage will be & it seemed happy to rest tail high. Result, I hope. Since then its been rubbing filler, not too much & then gluing it all together. Happily it appears to be symmetrical & straight(ish) & look a lot like a Vampire. More tomorrow with luck, Many thanks to @Giorgio N for clearing up my camouflage conundrum. I had posted the query above in Cold War modelling too. Steve. Edited August 1, 2019 by stevehnz 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 When I saw this I thought that you hadn’t left yourself a lot of time, but now I see that you don’t need it. John PS great idea with the cocktail stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 Don't you believe it John, the last week & a bit have not been conducive to modelling but I'm hoping to have a bit of time tomorrow. This one is close to being ready for paint, maybe an underside colour with luck. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 (edited) As said above, I managed a short time at my modelling desk dining table, , in which I got some colour on the bottom, Humbrol Hu 230 PRU Blue, it'll take another coat at least, I've inserted the U/C doors onto a blue tac base, the plan being to put the decals on in situ, cut carefully around them & prise the doors out of their recesses with the under wing serials in the correct locations. That's the plan anyway. We'll see how it goes. The paint revealed a few small areas that needed a little filler but not too discouraging. Steve. Edited August 15, 2019 by stevehnz 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, stevehnz said: I've inserted the U/C doors onto a blue tac base, the plan being to put the decals on in situ, cut carefully around them & prise the doors out of their recesses with the under wing serials in the correct locations. Ive done that before, just go slowly when pulling up. I left mine on the tack for about a week and it was almost impossible. I snapped an Airfix P-51 door in half because i applied to much pressure. When removing the second door i worked it up slowly by peeling it up a little at a time. Once i was able to slip a tool under the tack i pulled that up instead. Which seemed to work better. Dennis Edited August 15, 2019 by Corsairfoxfouruncle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 The PRU Blue has had a second coat & the remedial filling & sanding around the tail boom joins looks OK, I've put some Klear where the gear door decals will go & thats the next job. A trial with a knife showed the gear doors were not fixed too tight from the paint, I'm a bit nervous about what the Klear may do so I've gone light on it. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 11 hours ago, stevehnz said: I'm a bit nervous about what the Klear may do so I've gone light on it. I slap my future on with no issues. I usually score gently around the whole edge to make sure. Especially since you need to score the decal anyways to move the door. Just score around the whole door and you should break any connection made with your clear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 (edited) Hi Dennis, I was more worried about the Klear gluing the doors in place. I'll get to find out soon, the decals have gone on & snugged down over the detail well using the Klear as a bedding agent. Steve. Edited August 20, 2019 by stevehnz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 (edited) Topside camo pretty much done & I managed to get a few touch ups done this evening so all things being equal, I'll get the shark mouth & maybe a couple of other decals on before I head off to work tomorrow night, then I've a day & a half to get this finished before Sunday evening our time, evning though I would normally have some time on Monday our time to do last bits, guess who is back at work. Time for some U/C & wheel painting tomorrow too I reckon. BTW, the undercarriage doors with their serials came off a treat & no issues at all, I was rapt in that. I'll jst have to get them the right way around now. Steve. Edited August 27, 2019 by stevehnz 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 See, I told you that there was bags of time. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Looks very much the part! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 (edited) Last update, scraping in just in time as is my modus operandi it seems. , A start made on decalling, I put all the stencils on the lower side. By the time I came to the upper side, I was running out of resolve. Loosing a little red stripe from the side of the cockpit was the straw etc, main decals & a few of the more prominent stencils was IT. I was worried at what appeared to be some silvering on the large no step decals but some pin pricks & application of more Klear solution seemed to fix it OK. I had a bit of panic when my go to varnish was too matt, the not so matt one was gloopy & I couldn't find my Vallejo varnish so ended up with Klear & Tamiya X21, maybe still a bit matt but ok for now, will likely redo it later a bit more satin. the underside decalled with the gear door held in place with white tack pending application of a shark mouth. This method has worked well. The finished article, sorry, crappy photos but the best I can manage till I'm back in daylight & as tomorrow I'm off to work, it'll be these for the gallery. I'll post there after my young & I have watched Rutger Hauer's "Blind Fury" for a Father Day movie. Edited September 3, 2019 by stevehnz 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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