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PE + Resin makeover Tamiya Panzer Kpfw II G


WelshZeCorgi

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So first time working with PE detail set + resin 

 

I just want to be sure I have everything I need before I get started. 

 

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I have the bug folding tool, a soldering iron, some soldering flux and soldering tin wire and a tile to cut the PE off and some super glue, though I think I need some de-bonder to clean up the inevitable mistake.

 

But looking at the instructions,

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It looks like I have to cut away a few parts (dark red) and sand away a tonne of details off the fenders (pinkish). Think I need a micro drill for that. Tried cutting with the hobby knife but some of the details are too thick to slice through dependently and without the blade leaping for freedom once it cuts through.

 

Was wondering if any had a suggestion for other tools I would need to do the PE and Resin kit properly.

 

 

Thanks!

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About the fenders, you would cut the plastic ones completely off the model.  Main reason for using the replacement PE ones is to obtain a more proper scale thickness.  I'm not certain if any details need to be saved from the original plastic, but keep an eye out for that. 

 

On the rear deck, some of those dark red parts I would not bother removing if you plan to cover the area up with the resin stowage gear.

 

I have never used soldering on PE, but that's your call to make.  Most parts that require bending hold their shape well, it's attaching to the plastic that can sometimes be problematic.

 

A fine grade flat file would be good to have to clean up PE cut from it's fret - use your bug tool to hold it.  While not necessary, but if you plan to use PE regularly with your builds, might want to invest in a specially made scissors designed to snip/trim PE - XURON is one brand name example.

 

regards,

Jack

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Another thing with PE - you won't necessarily want to use it, just 'cause it is there.

Sometimes the kit part IS better, sometimes the etch is too complex and won't lead to an improvement.

 

I generally make the etch component before removing/destroying the kit part - that way, if the PE doesn't work for me, I'm not forced into unplanned scratch building.

 

Using solder - use the solder very thin, and tin the parts you want to solder first .... CA glue is easier to clean up and better than blobby solder.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello @WelshZeCorgi

Styrene sheet should be easy to snap after scoreing a few of times with a sharp blade.

 

I can't see the resin to make a suggestion there, but, if the part is robust enough, I often score along the sprue/part join and snap the to seperate.

Pliers or side snips can help give leverage.

 

When working with resin, wear a dust mask and clean up after - breating resin dust can be nasty.

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