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Hi all, I have to get rows of rivets on a model of a Matra MS 80 slot car. I'm doing the body pattern for resin moulding and having put three rows of the above on, I can't feel them at all. The weird system of application seems to have resulted in them being "inside out".  Can anyone help here?  I have no idea where this topic should go, I'm afraid.

 

Cheers,

Martiun

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12 hours ago, Scratchbuilder said:

Hi all, I have to get rows of rivets on a model of a Matra MS 80 slot car. I'm doing the body pattern for resin moulding and having put three rows of the above on, I can't feel them at all. The weird system of application seems to have resulted in them being "inside out".  Can anyone help here?  I have no idea where this topic should go, I'm afraid.

 

Cheers,

Martiun

Maybe he car section as its certainly not a work in progress aircraft is it?

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You might be better using the Archer decal rivets mate, they are 3D printed onto decal film and stand proud, they look great under a coat of paint. I tried to use the HGW set on a sea king build and they disappeared under primer. 

 

Historex agents sell sell the Archer range of decals 

 

HTH

 

Dan 

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Thanks, Dan. I have a pack of Archers somewhere, but Gawd knows where, so I tried to buy another and couldn't find them on Historex, which was where I got the original pack, so gave up looking and went for the Czech ones, as everything Czech is (normally) excellent. But these are weird. Am I supposed to peel the clear carrier film of the individual rivets?  The instructions don't say clearly what to do.

 

Martin

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1 minute ago, Scratchbuilder said:

Thanks, Dan. I have a pack of Archers somewhere, but Gawd knows where, so I tried to buy another and couldn't find them on Historex, which was where I got the original pack, so gave up looking and went for the Czech ones, as everything Czech is (normally) excellent. But these are weird. Am I supposed to peel the clear carrier film of the individual rivets?  The instructions don't say clearly what to do.

 

Martin

Hi Martin, I really struggled with them TBH and after painting deemed not worth the effort, I think they are to ver the final paint finish rather than under. Archer are the way forward I think.  

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I'm about to go and peel the film off, having checked out a couple of youtubes.  I'll report back after a very thin finishing coat of self etch primer, which is how my patterns end up.

 

Cheers,

Martin

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  • 3 weeks later...

Rubbish. Very thin coat of self-etch and the damned things are invisible. Perhaps they are for going OVER the last coat. Maybe that's why they're silver.

I ended up doing them with aliphatic resin glue. I bought some for wicking into balsa aircraft joints and the one I got was thicker than PVA. Useless for wicking, but ideal for model rivets as it was thick.

Did the trick and the Czech things are forgotten already!

 

Martin

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I didn't have any problems with HGW positive rivets when I used them on my Airfix 1/48 new tool Hurricane. They are difficult to see in certain conditions but then so are the real things. Catch the light correctly and they look good to me. I also believe that a polish to thin the top coat allows some of the silver to show through the paint.

 

Nick

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Yes, fine, perhaps on a model aircraft skin, but quite useless on the monocoque of a racing car where they were clearly seen proud half round rivet heads.

No matter, all done now.

 

Martin

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