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7 hours ago, Joel Abery said:

I take it you are shaking the bottle well and using a bit of thinners(water or an acrylic thinner like mr hobby 110 at about 80 paint 10 thinner) you do remove the needle and cap, nozzle when you do a clean down of the airbrush and don't leave anything in there ie cleaning fluid that will react with acrylics 

     Yes I shook it for about 60 seconds and even stirred it. I have used all acrylics for quite some time and almost always use water for thinning. I completely break down and clean my A/Brushes every time i use them so don't think that would be it. Not to mention its been a few weeks since I've used the A/brushes. I would think if something was in there it would’ve dried or evaporated. I have found with some acrylics recently there is a definite shelf life before they're no good for air brushing. This one was ok just a few weeks ago when i used it on my 190-A3 build so it shouldn't be that.   
   I sprayed the paint again last night after that post but used my older A/brush with a bigger needle/nozzle combo. A .50 in that case versus a .35 in the early painting. I didn't have the issues with thickness and rubbery. I wonder if the nozzle is to small ? The second session i had a lot of issues with the paint being to watery that time. Im getting closer to going to using enamel for my paints. Im getting very tired of all these issues lately. 
 

Dennis

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It's not a problem with the needle size or the paints. I think it's what you are thinning it with and no matter what you use to clean especially windex will leave alot of unwanted stuff in your airbrush as windex forms a layer to help keep things clean. Start at the beginning and clean the airbrush in light soapy water then rinse in clean, spray with no thinning and if it goes gooey in the airbrush it's the paints or what's in the airbrush still. Mix the paint with your normal thinner in an old paint jar and see if it goes gooey then it's the thinner, if it's not gooey in the jar but still is when in your airbrush it's got to be what you are cleaning the airbrush with

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Not much to report here folks been to busy with the Triple group build I'm hosting. I did manage to do the some odds and ends today. EA9yKfK.jpg

I added the simple rack and Rudder, painted the yellow cowl, and the landing gear bays and doors. I gave those a wash tonight. The cowl needs a little touch up around the edges but nothing serious. I will be attempting the RLM75 tomorrow so we’ll see how that goes. Questions, comments, or thoughts ? 

 

Dennis

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Hello everyone... For good or bad this ones painted now.

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Questions, comments, or thoughts ?  I now know i will need to replace my needle on this at some point in the near future. While painting things i noticed the spray was going off to one side more than the other. Every time i clean this and rebuild it the spray stays angled. However it will change due to the needle being moved when cleaned. Another thing Ive discovered is that Ammo by Mig paints need more pressure to spray. Regardless of thinning it needs about 18-20 psi. Normally i spray between 10-14 psi with most other paints. But this stuff coming out of the bottle has a rubbery consistency. Again this is before i even spray, or add water. Im thinking maybe it's a bad batch because my last couple of sets from them work like a charm and they're two years old.  It also feels rubbery on the kits after drying so who knows ?

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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10 minutes ago, Sturmovik said:

You're making great progress on this, you could try buying some Revell acrylics and brushing the paint next time.

They don't sell any Revell paints around here sadly. Neither locally or from my normal internet hobby distributors. I cant import paints either, Ive tried importing Gunze’s from asia more than once and they always gets stopped. 
     Im limited to Vallejo, Ammo by Mig, Hataka, mission models at the one hobby swap meet a year. Tamiya. very old stocks of model master, and if i can get a hold of the one shop on this side of the Atlantic possibly Color-coats. its looking like i may attempt to switch over to either Tamiya or Color-coats. Because I'm getting tired of acrylics. They worked so well for 5 years but now they're starting to fail quite regularly. Yes i know Tamiya are acrylics but they're different from the others. I think theyre lacquer based not water ? Oh i forgot to add that i will be taking a temporary break from “pips” builds after this plane to finish up several other builds 
 

Dennis

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Hello cousin,

I stopped to use water as a thinner for my acrylics long time ago.

Tamiya and Gunze are thinned with medical 90° alcohol, X-tra crylics with their own thinner

Same way for the Life color ones !

Sincerely.

CC

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Hello everyone... I finally got some time tonight to get some work done. I did all the decals on my 109 and everything but stencils on this. 
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Unfortunately the only thing incorrect about these is the 13 its in the wrong font. 
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It should look like this one, which I don't have. Don't have any idea where to find it either ? 

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Questions, comments, and or thoughts ? 

 

Dennis

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Not just the number font, but the fuselage cross and horizontal bar look different too.  Otherwise looks great, if you hadn’t have posted the photo, most people would be none the wiser.

 

AW

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On 03/10/2019 at 21:01, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

     Yes I shook it for about 60 seconds and even stirred it. I have used all acrylics for quite some time and almost always use water for thinning.

I'm no expert at airbrushing - but have you tried other than water for thinning? I would assume the brands own product would be the safest bet.

 

But if you're looking for another paint options, I can give two recommendations. I'm using the Vallejo Model & Air series of paints - they seem to be very easy to work with even for a non-expert such as me. Vallejo Air works pretty much out of the bottle with very little or no thinning needed. Model colours - designed for normal brush painting - work pretty much as well in an airbrush, just needs more thinning. But on the other hand, they usually give very good coverage with only 1-2 layers. I'm using the Vallejo thinner. My dad works mostly with Tamiya and they do spray really well and give a beautiful surface. I think he thins them around 50/50 with Tamiya's thinner. But for brush painting Tamiya is the worst, basically useless. Also being alcohol (?) based Tamiya has worse smell than Vallejo, which literally smells like a perfume :D 

 

Really nice looking Focke Wulf despite your airbrush problems :) 

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8 hours ago, Andwil said:

Not just the number font, but the fuselage cross and horizontal bar look different too.  Otherwise looks great, if you hadn’t have posted the photo, most people would be none the wiser.

 

AW

Thank you for the comments AW & advice from the beginning. You're correct on both sir but as Im working on a budget I'm using what i have. Either from the kits themselves or spares. Im fully aware these aren't 100% accurate and were never meant to be. They're simply for my personal collection and i thought i would share the builds with everyone. I also realized that i still need to paint the area under the fuselage cross. It needs RLM 75 under it as its to light to be black. 

 

5 hours ago, reini said:

I'm no expert at airbrushing - but have you tried other than water for thinning? I would assume the brands own product would be the safest bet.

Hello reini i really do appreciate any comments and advice. I do use isopropyl alcohol for brush cleaning all of my paints and Tamiya lacquer thinners for a deep clean. Ive not tried it A/brushing as I've read some negatives but maybe I should give it a try. Id love to be able to use Mig’s thinners or Vallejo's if i could get them. Sadly my goto online hobby-shop is always sold-out whenever i have a budget infusion, so i can never seem to get any.

     I use Vallejoair and Model color quite extensively but their Luftwaffe colors bear little resemblance to anything real. They have caused me nightmares of late by completely spoiling as well. I figured out on a recent build that Vallejoair has a definite shelf life. This is my Vallejoair RLM 75, wMf2mjx.jpg

after tearing down my airbrush and scraping it out. Those are rocks of paint not spatter that hardened inside the bottle of Vallejo. I mixed it and poured it into my paint jar like i do. Only to find that it completely fouled my A/B.

     I agree on the brushing of Tamiya thats an experiment i wont repeat on a large scale again. Though the yellow cowling on this is brushed Tamiya Yellow so it can be done in small sections. I usually brush it by mixing it about 60/40 isopropyl to paint. And brush two or three layers up over a couple of hours. Letting it dry completely in between. 
 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone... Sorry for the delays, i havent had much time lately and what little i had was spent on another build. I managed to get the landing gear onto the plane today. One step closer to the end. 
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Questions, comments, and or thoughts ? 


Dennis

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2 hours ago, Sturmovik said:

Looking good Dennis, I wish I had a 1:48 190 to build right now :(

You and me both. Im hoping i’ll find some of the aircraft needed to keep this build going. Im hoping they're at the one local show/swap meet we have which is coming up in 12 days. I have decals for two of “Pip’s” 190’s in 1/48. His A-2 and his A-8. Hoping to find the two “Emils” and “F’s” i need as well. 

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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Hello everyone... Well I'm calling this one done. I will post a few photo’s here and will do an RFI in a day or two when i can take more photo’s. 

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Here are a couple of the “Pip’s” schwarm on the tarmac. 

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Questions, comments, and or thoughts ? 
 

Dennis

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     Hello everyone... If I seem absent over the next few days please accept my apologies in advance. Ive had an incident family wise, and SWMBO needs me more. Her mother had a minor stroke and we will of course be concentrating on her care. I will check in when time allows but have stopped my building for the time being. 
 

Dennis

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