shortCummins Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Top and bottom halves of the outer wings were glued together. I’ve marked the holes that need filling with a red sharpie, otherwise I’d fill the wrong holes. Pete in Lincs came up with a fantastic idea of adding a length of sprue behind the cockpit fairing, I thought it was a really good idea so… Sprue cut to approximate length Sanded to half(ish) size and one end shaped to a point Fixed in place The fillet needs a little bit of tidying up and I’ll add a panel line or two once after I apply some primer. Wing spars added Outer wings attached. Now that the wings are attached I’ll add the other little bits’n’pieces, stuff that I won’t knock off, and then prepare for adding some primer to check which seams need attention. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 That sprue spine really sells it as an 30's hotrod design. I must say that it looks awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 coming along very nicely mate👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom216 Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Fantastic! Need a profile shot with the cowl tacked. I'm anxious to see how she's looking from all angles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 On 10/08/2019 at 15:49, Christer A said: That sprue spine really sells it as an 30's hotrod design. I must say that it looks awesome! Thanks Christer that spine really does make a difference, isn't it amazing how little things can make a great difference? rgds John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 On 10/08/2019 at 20:48, The Crusty one said: coming along very nicely mate👍 thank you Crusty I'm enjoying this more than I though I would your P-Dirty build look far more complicated than this rgds John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 On 11/08/2019 at 01:56, Thom216 said: Fantastic! Need a profile shot with the cowl tacked. I'm anxious to see how she's looking from all angles! Thanks Thom, I'll add some more shots when I've finished the re-scribing and riveting rgds John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 Perfect putty was used to smooth the join between the sprue fillet and the fuselage… …and fill the excess bomb fixings holes Surprisingly the joint between the windscreen and the fuselage needed a touch of filler. As did the rear wing fuselage joint. Also the inner outer wing needed some attention This also highlights the poor fit of the undercarriage doors, I’m really surprised at Tamiya. The largest gap between the front cover and wing was filled with some sheet styrene …and then the remaining gap(s) treated with more Perfect putty Before I start re-scribing, I’ll lay down a coat of primer as I find it easier to see what needs attention, and how much, once some paint has been applied. Tamiya XF-4, internal colour, sprayed over windscreen. UMP/Stynylrez black primer applied to airframe. As you can see some work will be required to various seams and gaps. Some of the “wrong” fixing holes will need topping up Next I’ll be fixing the gaps, filling holes and then giving everything another coat of primer and then re-scribing where needed and adding a whole bunch of rivets. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 54 minutes ago, shortCummins said: This also highlights the poor fit of the undercarriage doors, I’m really surprised at Tamiya. Not designed to be built gear up, I suspect. Worth bearing in mind that gear doors often don't fit as well as you might think..... pic from here https://www.balettie.com/zenphoto/vacation-photos/virginia-2010/national-museum-of-the-marine-corps/ Like with the non folded wing, it maybe better to have fixed the doors in before assembly, allowing adding tabs to support the gear doors inside to be fitted. 56 minutes ago, shortCummins said: as always, any suggestions, Try using plastic rod or stretched sprue, or even the fixing off the ordnance to fill holes like these. Plastic glued in with superglue can be trimmed off as soon as it has has set. On the odd occasion I do get to mangle plastic I find superglue really useful, for assembly and gap filling. Comments more for future use, greatly enjoyable and creative build happening here. cheers T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 7 hours ago, shortCummins said: thank you Crusty I'm enjoying this more than I though I would your P-Dirty build look far more complicated than this rgds John I tell you what mate I ain't half enjoying my build too ...it is what it is mate I just hope I can do it justice 👍 Crusty 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 I really must introduce you guys to the magic land of maschinen kreiger! 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 20 hours ago, Troy Smith said: Not designed to be built gear up, I suspect. Worth bearing in mind that gear doors often don't fit as well as you might think..... pic from here https://www.balettie.com/zenphoto/vacation-photos/virginia-2010/national-museum-of-the-marine-corps/ Like with the non folded wing, it maybe better to have fixed the doors in before assembly, allowing adding tabs to support the gear doors inside to be fitted. Try using plastic rod or stretched sprue, or even the fixing off the ordnance to fill holes like these. Plastic glued in with superglue can be trimmed off as soon as it has has set. On the odd occasion I do get to mangle plastic I find superglue really useful, for assembly and gap filling. Comments more for future use, greatly enjoyable and creative build happening here. cheers T Thanks for this Troy Unfortunately I've filled the gap at the front of the undercarriage but I've save your info for future use, its much appreciated as well as surprising Also really good tips about using rod or stretched sprue, I wouldn't have thought about using stretched sprue. these sort of useful tips is how we all learn, many thanks rgds John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said: I really must introduce you guys to the magic land of maschinen kreiger! now you just trying to get me to spend money 😍 rgds John 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 Nope, that's the beauty of it, all bit from bits. Cheap pre owned Porsche 911, second hand donated 1/32nd P-38 and a big bits box. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom216 Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 3 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said: Nope, that's the beauty of it, all bit from bits. Cheap pre owned Porsche 911, second hand donated 1/32nd P-38 and a big bits box. Pete You know, until you mentioned it was a kit-bash, I though that was a full kit. Awesome work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Thank you, Sir. RFI is here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235039432-gulf-falke-scratchbuild/&do=findComment&comment=3058816 Sorry for the hijack, John! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 53 minutes ago, Pete in Lincs said: Thank you, Sir. RFI is here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235039432-gulf-falke-scratchbuild/&do=findComment&comment=3058816 Sorry for the hijack, John! absolutely no problem, I've been looking at quite a few "different" vehicles and the scope is unending. I plan to do a couple of "inspired by" builds before trying something of my own, I figure that learning to build something more or less to a plan will help when I go off on a tangent with my own stuff? your falke is southing I'll aspire to rgds John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 John, Thank you for the nice words. An old saying is, a plan is merely a basis for change. But, in this game, if you start out to build an Aeroplane and finish with an Aeroplane then you're winning. Of course, what you end up with may be different to what you first had in mind, but, is it better? Hopefully. Sometimes, the journey is more important than arriving. I usually start out with an idea, inspired by something. Raid the spares boxes and pick out whatever I think might be useful and put those bits into another box. As the build progresses, I'll raid the spares boxes again for those 'special' bits that enhance the finished product. I grew up modelling on a very small budget. I can now afford pretty much whatever I want. But I still keep an eye on costs. A Falke kit is 45 pounds plus. You open the box, follow the instructions and paint it. Job done. Yes you get a nice result, but.... My Falke build cost less than 20 pounds, I cut and filled, added, messed about with it and generally had lots of fun. That's what it's all about. A few months ago I bought a cheap Slave 1. The lower half became a hovertank, the upper half is still in progress in Sci fi. Two builds for the price of one. Result! Regards Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 More Perfect putty was used to “top-up” the joins and then gently sanded. I came across a couple of PE bits that I thought would add a little bit more interest. Another coat of primer. The “new” primer coat showed that I hadn’t smoothed the transitions enough so more sanding was called for. After more filling and sanding I’m reasonably happy with the finish, at least I’ve persuaded myself to stop now as if I continue I’m going to make it worse rather than better!? Next I’ll be attacking the airframe with Rosie the Riveter. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 That looks nice, lots of surface detail despite the sanding, so well done, better than I usually manage! BTW, I drove through Cotgrave today. Are they taking forever with the roadworks or what? Cheers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 22 minutes ago, Pete in Lincs said: That looks nice, lots of surface detail despite the sanding, so well done, better than I usually manage! BTW, I drove through Cotgrave today. Are they taking forever with the roadworks or what? Cheers Pete rumour is that their not roadworks, their a "feature", still it'll be good when they've finished, then in a month or so the water/gas/electric (take your pick) will dig the road up again? rgds John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fubar57 Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 Getting better and better............ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 16, 2019 Author Share Posted August 16, 2019 When I was more or less happy with the transitions, lots and lots of filling, sanding, re-spraying, filling, sanding etc., It was time to add some rivets however, before I can apply any rivets I need to re-scribe some panel lines and also add one or two, to give me boundaries for the rivets. I’d used HIQ Parts scribing guide tape, which I forgot to de-tac and you’ll notice from a couple of photos that it managed to “lift” some of the primer. The Perfect putty didn’t like being scribed, could have been me using too much pressure?, so I’ll have to see what it looks like after some more primer. So it looked terrible, so I decided to go the Squadron green putty route as re-scribing would be better? Squadron Green putty applied and sanded. After primer NOTE TO SELF: don’t use Perfect putty where re-scribing could be required. Eventually Rosie the Riveter was finally broken out to make lines of rivets on various panels. I’ve used bucket loads of “artistic licence” and placed the lines of rivets where I think they’d look good rather than what would be structurally correct, after all this is a fantasy aircraft. Next I’ll be adding some natural metal finish (NMF) using vallejo paints. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 Nice riveting, it looks good to me. I don't know if you've tried typists correction fluid? A white liquid it will flow into gaps and those annoying holes and when dry excess can be removed with IPA or light sanding. I get it from home bargains, it comes in bottles with a brush or applicators. And, it's cheap! Pete 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted August 18, 2019 Author Share Posted August 18, 2019 Paint used for the Natural Metal Finish (NMF), all vallejo acrylic metal color. 77.701 aluminium 77.702 duraluminium 77.703 dark aluminium 77.706 white aluminium 77.716 semi matte aluminium 77.717 dull aluminium For NMF I use vallejo paints, as opposed to Alclad, mainly because I don’t have a spray booth, therefore no extraction. This may/will change when I finally get around to converting my shed into a man-cave? 77.701 aluminium as the base colour 77.702 duraluminium, careful masking, I used ‘post-it notes’ as I wanted to make sure that I didn’t ‘lift’ the base aluminium by using too aggressive masking tape. Using UMP/Stynylrez primer probably would have ensured that I could have used de-tacked Tamiya tape however I’d have been really miffed if any of the base had lifted. 77.703 dark aluminium 77.706 white aluminium 77.716 semi matte aluminium 77.717 dull aluminium Next I’ll be adding the anti-glare panel and also some colour to the wings and underside. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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