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I've been working on this particular project for a few years with a build log on ontheslipway.com and a thread on modelwarships.com. I'll just continue where I am now, working on the anchors. I'm slowly preparing the replace the anchor arrangement I have now. Once this is done I can continue adding a layer of primer to the foredeck.

 

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The rest of the fore deck in now done

 

file.php?id=117432

 

Rear deck was already painted (plank by plank, of course)

 

file.php?id=111861

 

Progress is painfully slow, with taking a lot of time per sub assembly and modeling being a bit of an on or off project.

 

(Hope the images show :))

 

 

 

 

Edited by foeth
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1 hour ago, foeth said:

I've been working on this particular project for a few years

Can I ask, Is this a scratch build or a kit? Scale? Whatever it is, their is a lot of detail on it.

48 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Oh yeah, here we go.

 

The rest of us can just go home and take up knitting now then 😖

Now, now Jamie, take  deep breath...

 

Stuart

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49 minutes ago, bootneck said:

It says in the tags 1/350 scratchbuild, could be a clue there Stuart? :giggle:

I'm sure they weren't there when I looked :suicide:

 

Stuart

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It's almost a full scratch build. This model started out by the WEM kit, but I decided the change a bit here, change a bit there, and now 100% of the WEM kit is gone and only a bit at the bow and stern is still visible as resin. The decks, armour plating and so on is all replaced. I wasn't really into scratch building when I started and would certainly do my own hull if I had to do it all over.... The only commercial products are ABER ladders... I could say I have used the WEM turrets, but in fact they use mine, so these don't count 😆 The etch (not on those pics btw) is all drawn myself and etched at Haulers... The scale is 1/350...

Edited by foeth
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Oh, I was just getting increasingly more critical while building. In its days the WEM kit was pretty nice but the etch wasn't particularly great, some parts needed an update and then it's this irreversible process replacing one thing after another. Taking a grinder to the WEM deck was a tense moment 😖 Now I enjoy scratch building and coming up with new solutions. Not sure if I'll start using 3D printing, but why not...

 

 

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Ok ok 😎

 

file.php?id=116862

 

One "shackle" of chaincable; a bit of soldering including the center stud. These are now nearly done :waiting:

 

 

 

Edited by foeth
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1 hour ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

You should consider including a hydrogen atom for scale...

Gidday Foeth, maybe not a hydrogen atom but something to show the size of the links. Maybe a ruler? Some people use coins but for anybody not familiar with that particular currency it is a bit meaningless. Stunning work you've done. Regards, Jeff.

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I’m with Jamie; like him, I suspect, I have been watching this build via On The Slipway for ages, and I am delighted to see it come to Britmodeller.  It’s awesome.

 

Bizarrely, I was on that very site about 5 minutes ago looking for details of Mk 2 Pom-Pom directors (for Ark, in my case).  I found more useful stiff (& pictures!) on Evert Jan’s blog in 5 minutes’ reading than anywhere else in 30 minutes’ Google-Fu.

 

You are most welcome, Sir!

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For anyone wondering and/or who hasn't yet joined up the dots, this is the same EJ Foeth who worked out the shape of HMS Prince of Wales' camouflage pattern including all the gun barrels along with Richard ( dickrd ), the result of which is the basis for my camouflage illustration. EJ made the original version of it some years ago.

 

There are some absolutely fantastic reference photos of quite a number of ships on On The Slipway.

 

Ladies and Gentlemen, you have had another walking encyclopedia arrive in your forum as an active member!

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Wow, this looks awesome. I must slip across to On The Slipway and see what's occurring there.

 

Terry

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file.php?id=118465

 

Anchor arms done after a nice soccer finale... The main part is a simple strip folded around another, glued while held in the calipers, and filed to shape. I used my drill press to add a 0.5mm hole and inserted a bit of Albion Alloys 0.5mm tubing (also in the shank). The tripping palms are a bit of strip and my new best friend: Magic Sculpt.

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It took me a couple of minutes to work out what you were doing there.  Those anchor flukes are superb.... and the caliper gives us the scale.

 

How do you get them so consistent?  Always one of the most difficult aspects of scratch building

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There are several ways.

  1. Build many and keep the best parts. I notice this happens less and less but for some parts this is the only way. I didn't do that here and one these flukes is slightly off-center (bottom right image, 2nd from the left). That is, the palms are aligned with the shank, so it should not be visible once done, but one fluke is a bit off. Drilling template not perfect :)
  2. I always use a chopper to cut my strips. I made an ancient post here: Chopper tips. I do not use this older chopper but the newer one and had the hinge recentered at our workshop at work (because the tool isn't very good... someone should make a decent chopper). By using calipers and strip (and keeping notes!) you can very easily remake a part accurate to 0.1mm consistently. The palms have a slight arc, and this was done using a circle cutter. Simply use a needle scriber to put a center in the strip, cut very carefully, cut to size using a chopper, keep the best parts.
  3. Templates. Here I used one for drilling only, but I also use them for aligning and cutting. Takes a bit of polystyrene and additional time... but in the end results in more consistent parts. Here the template was built while being held in the drill press. First drill the hole, then add the strips to the base plate using spacer strips against the drill. This is why the hole is as nicely centered as it is. If you first make a template, then align and drill, I would certainly ruin a few parts! (I am not very good at centering my drill press).
  4. I experiment a lot. In this case it went quite well, but in case on the anchor shank I had to start over with an error in the build. Trying and failing is a very good technique 😁 Some complicated parts require several attempts; you spend the day at work thinking about your problem and suddenly you find a new approach to try. I think the most complicated path to results was the plank nibbing techniques for the deck. This also means that sometimes entire weekends of modeling time are wasted on techniques without results.
  5. Optivisor. I have good eyesight but notice that with the optivisor I see a lot more. My work is now much cleaner than before.
  6. Practice. I notice that my filing and cutting is getting more consistent. I go slowly and check often. The filing of the flukes, for example, was a slow process! It's a bit of a no-brainer, but I can see my older scratchbuild parts are not as sharp as I would like them. I keep replacing parts on the model, hence it is not yet finished... I should really stop doing that... but once the anchor arrangement is redone I'll add primer so that has to be it...

 

Edited by foeth
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file.php?id=118595

 

Some minor capstan work, replacing the capstan that I had (and lost...). The base is a series of discs made on the lathe and were surprisingly difficult as the styrene has a tendency to bend away during parting (ruining the disc). So I started making a small stub, part that at some distance, and put it back in against the collect. After some trial & error the thickness came out just fine. Some inner details were added and a small topping of etched PE parts. The pics aren't great as my old died and the new one takes some practice taking macro shots.

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  • 2 weeks later...

file.php?id=118749&mode=view

 

Portable support rollers and 'pawls' added to the capstan, plus per request something added for scale. With this heat the glue barely works!

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