Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Arr, that might work but the model is already partly painted and I do not want to redo the existing decks. Because the result is awesome :) I wish I'd started painting just a tiny bit later! Plus, I am unrealistically happy with SH's colour research... even though that means my AP507A/B is a bit off...

 

spacer.png

 

Edited by foeth
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

New Humbrol has arrived, these little guys have a "made in the UK" label and a different lid style (blank + sticker). I hope that will go a bit better. Did a few cleaning passes to remove more of the dry spray. I actually super-glued tiny strips of sanding paper to toothpicks to reach some places... I'm not afraid to commit to strange time-consuming rituals, but I was hoping it was not this one 😁 Learn by failure I suppose...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I endorse these comments too but I'm already using Humbrol on the many parts already painted... painted myself in the proverbial corner... I had a lot of trouble, even with tins and content having NO relation whatsoever... I still have some tins of H187 Sand that I used but look nothing like what's it supposed to be, but whatever is in there is a nice tone for the wooden decks.... Not to mention all my premixed 507A that would go bad after days because I had no proper storage (Badger jars suck). Never again; premixed is more convenient! Hope that the new UK range is better.

Edited by foeth
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The fore deck was next in line for painting. Unfortunately I had a minor disaster with a coat of Humbrol H72 giving rough spots plus some over-spray that didn't dry up thinly and it was worst some distance after the deck (taped off areas). After brushing the model with alcohol I lightly sanded the deck and removed the grainy surface where I could using pieces of sanding paper glued to toothpicks, etched parts could be scraped clean. Many details are soldered or glued firmly, but the vents around the barbettes are fragile and took a bit more time. It went well enough, but I was otherwise very much not pleased loosing a day or two that could have been spent painting. Not sure if it insufficient stirring but it was probably my fault somewhere along the line. Learn by failure I suppose. The result is still not too bad but macro shots will show the bad finish. Perhaps one of the reasons I dread painting; small errors are very difficult to correct. But rather than trashing the model, getting drunk and starting over I just continued; it's a hobby after all and just hope for the best. Details as the chain and such still show a bad finish and that does dampen the enthusiasm ever so slightly. On the bright side, we can act as if it's a bit of dirt or salt deposition adding texture. And since I also no longer use dry-brushing it should be fine. It's not so much that the situation cannot be salvaged but more so that I do not control the process to my liking. I did not have this problem with my grey coats fortunately. It's funny, as from the construction part the model is quite accomplished, but I consider myself to be a bit of a beginner with painting. And as an expert is someone who has made all errors in his field that can be made I have some additional erring left to do.

 

decks_64.jpg

 

So for one point select the right caption

a) Prior to engaging the Bismarck, HMS Hood repainted her foredeck yellow to avoid getting torpedoed by her own air force. Of course, she was torpedoed anyway.

b) Here you can see the foredeck with a fresh layer of corticene that I believe is in fact yellow. Sovereign Hobbies uses a chocolate brown tint based on archive samples that have rapidly unyellowed.

c) After the universe decided to make my paint coating go bad, I selected a random item from the universe and applied the death of a thousand cuts. I covered up all shameful parts and will now resort to knitting.

d) The entire deck was masked after a layer of primer, corrections, and a couple of coats of Humbrol H72, rough-spot corrections and a barrel of Whisky. There's a lot of detail to work around, so this takes many wee bits of tape. As the deck will be painted by hand it doesn't have to be exact.

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

decks_65.jpg

 

The rest was sprayed with two coats of my AP507A/B mixture. I stored some batches on paint in Badger jars and most of this went bad (dried in the jar); I bought a stash of empty tins at https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/, including some 125ml tins for storage. Meanwhile, the new Humbrol colours I ordered do not mix to the same colour I had; too blue. With some black and some drops of red the colour might be used as a base. Fortunately I have a a few tins of my old paint + white lying around, more that enough to finish the model, so that will be the main colour. Might as well have used the new Colourcoat range. Note that the sandy layer of H72 on the deck shows patterns of masking, as a final insult to my painting troubles, but as the next stage is painting in all planks one by one that doesn't worry me at all.

Edited by foeth
  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

decks_66_meanwhile.jpg

 

Forepeak has received three passes with H72+white (50/50), H72+H110 Natural Wood (50/50) and H187 Sand. The rest of the deck is partially done. The surface is still awful in front on the breakwater, and though a few more skylights will be added there it may need a bit more sanding and corrections. The contrast is purposely overdone as a few wash layers will be added (eventually) that will pull the colours together. Or so I hope! A productive weekend; good thing it snowed last Sunday, or I'd be in the garden sitting out quarantine.

Edited by foeth
  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

decks_66_meanwhiler.jpg

 

Area between breakwaters painted in. Last part behind the 2nd breakwater only needs a pass with H72+white, rest added... The strange effect on the base coat after the tape was removed is no longer visible.

Edited by foeth
  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

decks_66.jpg

 

Base layer of the foredeck is done. The deck edge details (awning stanchion footplates and a few cleats) were touched up in the base colour and bollards and steam winch position in black. The colour of the chains is typically hull colour and one shot from 1940 shots the starboard chain to be a bit lighter, so I copied that, in AP507C. Yes, colourcoats!

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very impressive and inspirational work as usual EJ. I have a notion to have a go at making bottle screws like you did for my next model. It does seem to make a big difference in making the model look like it's a model of something that worked.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

decks_67.jpg

 

Three washes of van Dyk brown followed. To make the wash I used Winsor & Newton's Sansodor that dries very slowly, allowing for some touching up and clearing excess wash from the deck with a wet brush when the wash is starting to set. There's always some discussion if individual planks can be seen and the answer is clearly: it depends. The contrast is perhaps more pronounced than I'd like but I'm happy with the results.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

decks_68.jpg

 

The fwd breakwater and anchor arrangement after one pass of shadows, sediment deposits & salt streaking followed by highlighting. This will be by far the dirtiest part of the ship and the only part with sediment (Humbrol 62 Leather).

41yluDCgsGL.jpg

 

I copied using H148 Radome Tan for salt streaks/deposits; this is a yellowy tone but dries up as a very natural whitish filter.

"Some" correction work is to follow on the highlights (the angled base on the skylights and top of the capstans) and the bollards are a bit overdone. The shadows and highlights of the fwd breakwater near the deck was particularly challenging... Some salt deposits on the deck appears a bit flaky too, so perhaps add more, restore deck lines afterwards... This was fun to do with mood swings from " this is actually really easy" to "that didn't turn out as I want it at all" and back.

  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Via the official HMS Hood site came news that the entire steel boat deck of HMS Hood was either Semtex or, Corticine. The latter was news to me, having noticed the typical rectangular pattern on the decks, but never quite making the connection. After checking with the pics and official records, this corticine is now confirmed. Good news: a nice deck stripe pattern the add. Bad news; all models with grey boat decks are now... wrong... Also, Semtex was present at the 4"  gun emplacements, so the strip pattern does not run everywhere. The presence of corticine was indicated by Dave Weldon, a fellow Hood aficionado who has studied HMS Hood a fair bit longer than I have.

 

file.php?id=130918&mode=view

 

So I started adding corticine strips. From the expansion slot (running between the funnels) I added a 6x12 ft pattern than matches pictures of the pattern well, using stretched sprue. Stretched sprue over such long distances is tricky; lot's of measuring, locally fixing and correcting... Here I added... measuring tape...

 

Corticine_002.jpg

Status as this section is now; nearly done with the stripe pattern. Some detail needed to be removed, some detail removed itself. There is no stripe pattern near the fwd 4" HA emplacement and the ladder hatch coaming; here Semtex was added. If Semtex was added at the pompom emplacement is not known, so the corticine strip pattern was added there as well.

SprueingAlong.jpg

Edited by foeth
  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...