patmaquette Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 Thank you for your kind comments on the gun carriages. I have begun painting them. First was to airbrush a shade tone (Humbrol 170 Brown Bess) and then a lighter tone (Revell 17 Sand) applied where light through the gun port would fall onto the carriage and deck. This was then reinforced by a further lighter tone (Humbrol HC-5 Deck Tan) . Starting point.... Shade with dark brown (but lots of problems with paint clogging and spluttering).... First highlight using Revell 17 Sand, leaving the darker shade in areas of shadow (such as close to the hull side and around the carriage)..... Final highlight before turning to brush painting..... Using this as pre-shade, thin layers of acrylic paint in various brown tones were applied on top of the gun deck. I found a microbrush to be the ideal way of doing this. I was reasonably happy with this first attempt and it will be a useful rehearsal for later. I will make up a fresh batch of paint to do the carriages themselves, but this will have to wait until I get back to the modelling bench at the weekend (as will trying out the Blue Stuff). Cream and brown tones applied in thin washes using a Microbrush...... The completed model will be wall mounted for display in the local museum. My plan is to bring support rods through a pair of gun ports on the starboard side. Museum visitors will be able to get a clear view the ship from beneath when they are on the ground floor and from the side when on stairs to the first floor. I'll therefore assemble the starboard side with the support arrangements before gluing the hull halves together. I commenced with gluing the transom to the starboard hull side. This had to be done in stages, holding the parts firmly together by hand for what seemed an eternity until the point was reached where a clamp could be used...... With this done, the outside of the hull halves, the deck and the five bulkheads were washed, masked and sprayed with Halfords aerosol white primer. Surfaces to be glued were either masked or not sprayed with paint, as I will need to get strong glue joints as the parts are wrestled together. That's it for now. Back to the 'bench once I return from a visit to RAF Hendon (and of course Hannants). Typical of me to pick the hottest day ever known for travelling! Hopefully the rails won't get too buckled! Thanks for looking and all comments welcome, Pat 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Looking great with primer and paint on. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted July 26, 2019 Author Share Posted July 26, 2019 16 minutes ago, Courageous said: Looking great with primer and paint on. Stuart Thanks, Stuart, I like the way it looking as well, which is encouraging. I'm toying with doing the detailed painting (wood finish and all those coloured strips) and sealing it under a layer of Klear before gluing the hull together. It will be easier to handle vs may get damaged with handling. I would welcome any thoughts to help me decide, Cheers, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 A brief progress update... Painting of the gun carriages for installation below the weather decks has been completed..... I mentioned previously that the model will be wall mounted and the supports will enter through gun ports on one side. Sockets for the supports were made from brass tube (having a 1/8" bore) and epoxied into blind holes drilled into the wood that is keeping the weather decks aligned. I don't have the 1/8" diameter support rods as yet - hopefully I will find something suitable for the job. In photos below: A - As it was difficult to position the holes in line with the gun ports, I marked the position as best I could and made test holes.... B - Pieces of stiff wire were pushed into the test holes and the pieces dry fitted together. Corrections were measured and a second set of test holes made and checked. Once okay, the holes were drilled to the final size. The holes did not break through the wood on the other side. C - Sockets for the supports were made from brass tubes. They were turned down to get a close fit to the drilled holes. D, E - Sockets epoxied into the wooden deck support. F, G - Dry assembly shows the sockets just visible within the gun ports. I had my first dabble with Blue Stuff for mould making. I watched David Damek's video on YouTube (link given earlier) once again before starting to play. I made moulds from a couple of brass cannons and the head from a figurine (a piece I use to practice painting - so having a few more spares will be useful). For those who don't know, Blue Stuff becomes very soft when placed in hot water. You can make moulds from it by placing the item you wish to recreate into the hot material and leaving the mould to harden as it cools. You then add a layer of Blue Stuff over the top to complete the mould. The mould can be split and the master removed without the need for release agents. The new parts can be made by pressing epoxy putty into each mould half and then squeezing them together. The mould can once again be split and the part removed once the epoxy has set. The mould can be used multiple times or can be recycled to make a completely new mould by heating it again. I found the Blue Stuff fairly easy to use., however good pliability needed temperatures that were too hot to the touch. Having to handle items through gloves was awkward. I cut the blocks of material into segments (as David Damek does) for them to heat through quicker. The blocks re-amalgamate as soon as they touch in the hot water. I decided to keep the blocks apart. I used a small block to quickly place onto the master and coax into the surface detail, following this with a larger piece placed over it to provide a backing. Once firmly attached to the first piece of Blue Stuff the whole thing was pressed onto a flat surface so the mould had a flat face. Alignment indentations had to be put in quickly (I used a paint brush handle for this) as by now the Blue Stuff was beginning to harden. Once cool and hard, the second part of the mould was made. Again, I applied a small/thin layer over the part and pressed the material into the detail (I used a sculpting tool for this, kept in hot water. David D uses a cocktail stick). This was then rapidly followed up by a thicker layer to back it up. For photos below: A - Blue stuff cubes placed in hot water in one cup and sculpting tools in another... B - Lower half of moulds made. These have been pressed onto a flat surface and indentations made for aligning the top part of the mould.... C - Top part of mould created and [D] mould left to cool and harden, E - Mould split and masters removed. F, G - Milliput put into mould halves before pressing together and leaving to harden. As of posting this I felt quite encouraged but knew I would need more practice before I would be as slick at it as David Damek. However, The results show I have a way to go (see next posting)! Many thanks for looking and please let me hear your thoughts, Pat 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 A mixed result from the first trial. Two main problem areas: (1) the mould halves were grossly misaligned and (2) some details of the face - the nose in particular - was not fully formed. In all other respects the results were good: plenty of fine detail captured, good surface finish, easy enough to remove mould flash from the Milliput, easy enough to separate the parts from the moulds. I have an idea for how to solve the mould alignment problem and will try this next. Stay tuned! Pat 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 The work on the gun decks is exemplary. Martian 👽 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 On 01/08/2019 at 08:41, Martian Hale said: The work on the gun decks is exemplary. Martian 👽 Thank you, Martian, you're very kind. The gun carriages and sections of deck have been attached inside the hull halves. I have epoxied a 1-oz lead weight there as well, as I like the feel of the model with this. All pieces of white plasticard and the wood structure supporting the main deck have been painted dark brown so not to be visible when looking into the hull through any openings.... Cheers, Pat 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Looking rather smart. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnoldAmbrose Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 12 hours ago, patmaquette said: All pieces of white plasticard and the wood structure supporting the main deck have been painted dark brown so not to be visible when looking into the hull through any openings.... Gidday Pat, I think that's a good idea. Your gun decks look very good. I hope enough of them will be visible so viewers can see and appreciate your work. Regards, Jeff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacca Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Good work going on here. Most impressive 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 (edited) On 11/08/2019 at 10:56, ArnoldAmbrose said: Gidday Pat, I think that's a good idea. Your gun decks look very good. I hope enough of them will be visible so viewers can see and appreciate your work. Regards, Jeff Thank you for all your comments and "likes". Jeff - I don't think too much will be visible through the ports, unfortunately - especially those ports having larger cannons. Still, I've had fun making the parts and painting the wood effects has been a useful rehearsal for later. Here is my latest progress update and, once again, I find myself in unfamiliar territory regarding nautical terminology. I've enjoyed having a go - but please do say where corrections are needed so I (and others who may read this thread) can improve our knowledge! The hull halves have been glued together. This had to be done in stages allowing time between stages for the glue to set . I started with the keel and then the prow and transom. It helped having a good range of clamps!.... I have left the deck trapped unglued between the hull halves until the deck bullheads (cubbridge heads) are painted and ready to fit. I can then spring the hull halves apart to pop them in and then glue everything solid. (Mind you, even in this state it survived a nasty drop when I was trying to photograph the model which broke the brittle plastic in three places - but the glued joints remained intact and none of the cannon pieces came loose). I have added some detail inside the bulwarks to busy them up a bit - inspired by Martian's fine work on his Le Corsair build.... I also added some pintle and gudgeon detail to the rudder post using lead foil. A hole was cut in the transom for a tiller to pass through and some small ones that will later be used when I add chains (which I presume are for retaining the rudder should it get dislodged in action?). There is not a ship's wheel provided in the kit - should there be one? The sternwalk components needed quite a bit of work to prepare and assemble. There was a lot of flash to trim away and ejector pin holes to fill. Plastic card fillets were added to fill gaps between the walk and stern. A coarse abrasive paper was used to add a wood grain effect and an Olfa-P cutter to cut in plank edges. Clamping and gluing the assembly in stages was needed once again. Once done, it was found to fit the stern well. It has been left to paint separately. The prow is in need of a figurehead. Any thoughts on what it might be or look like? I have a furry Guinea pig available, but I suspect that would not be appropriate. Perhaps if I give it some horns and dragon's wings?.... Here are the parts readied for painting.... I have also made progress with moulding the cannons using Magic Sculpt in Blue Stuff moulds. It has been easy to use, but not entirely without problems. I'll post about this separately.. Thank you for looking and for all your comments! Pat Edited August 15, 2019 by patmaquette 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 Quote There is not a ship's wheel provided in the kit - should there be one? The prow is in need of a figurehead. Any thoughts on what it might be or look like? 1. No ships steering wheel. It was not invented until sometime in the late 17th Century. Over 100 years after this ship, Actual time of of invention is unclear, anytime from about 1670 to 1695 is thought. That is the cover to the 'cockpit' where the steering crew hauled on ropes attached to the rudder tiller. Orders were shouted down to them. They could lock themselves in during bad weather or battle. 2. Tudor ships did not have have figureheads. Ships like the Mary Rose and Peter Pomegranate had 'lollipops' which stuck out the front of the ship from the railing of the front of the forecastle. Look on the Anthony Roll and you'll see the 'lollipops' sticking out. Figureheads are thought to have been added to English ships from about 1660 or 1666 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 On 7/31/2019 at 1:34 PM, patmaquette said: A mixed result from the first trial. Two main problem areas: (1) the mould halves were grossly misaligned and (2) some details of the face - the nose in particular - was not fully formed. In all other respects the results were good: plenty of fine detail captured, good surface finish, easy enough to remove mould flash from the Milliput, easy enough to separate the parts from the moulds. I have an idea for how to solve the mould alignment problem and will try this next. Stay tuned! Pat I have some Blue Stuff sitting in my box of tricks, and I think there may be some minor casting (of 1/350 fairleads) in my near future. Did you get anywhere with solving the mould alignment issue? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted August 16, 2019 Author Share Posted August 16, 2019 14 hours ago, Black Knight said: 1. No ships steering wheel. It was not invented until sometime in the late 17th Century. Over 100 years after this ship, Actual time of of invention is unclear, anytime from about 1670 to 1695 is thought. That is the cover to the 'cockpit' where the steering crew hauled on ropes attached to the rudder tiller. Orders were shouted down to them. They could lock themselves in during bad weather or battle. 2. Tudor ships did not have have figureheads. Ships like the Mary Rose and Peter Pomegranate had 'lollipops' which stuck out the front of the ship from the railing of the front of the forecastle. Look on the Anthony Roll and you'll see the 'lollipops' sticking out. Figureheads are thought to have been added to English ships from about 1660 or 1666 Enormous thanks for this information - not only because it directs me with this build but because it is so interesting. A great example of why Britmodeller is so good! 14 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: I have some Blue Stuff sitting in my box of tricks, and I think there may be some minor casting (of 1/350 fairleads) in my near future. Did you get anywhere with solving the mould alignment issue? Hello Crisp - I have been following your build thread and saw mention of the fairleads. Yes, after a number of trials I have solved the mould alignment issue to a good extent, but it is still not perfect. My second attempt with the Blue Stuff mould making material was only partially successful. I used Magic Sculpt putty that time and preferred the result compared to the Milliput white superfine, so I'm using this now. The problems had been that I had put too much putty into the moulds and the pieces came out too thick. But in terms of capturing detail and finish, I was encouraged. I then decided the idea of using indents for mould alignment could be improved upon by simply using the outside edge of the lower mould. That seems to have worked. I have made a couple more attempts at making moulds from Blue Stuff. I think I have a workable method now, but a problem still remains and that is the initial separation of the two halves of the mould. The material is prone to sticking and can cause tearing or stretching as you tug the two halves apart. I'll mention two ways I have tried to reduce this problem and how perhaps it could be solved given more experimentation. So here is my current 'state of the art' method, and it requires the following items all of which can be found in the kitchen: a saucepan of water kept hot (near to boiling point - but more on that at the end), Marigold gloves, dessert spoon, cutting board with some cling film wrapped around it, a pizza cutting wheel and kitchen scissors. You will also need a modelling spatula to help push the Blue Stuff around the master. You can make as many moulds from your master in one session as you want. Assume for the following that we will make three moulds of each master.... Put blocks of Blue Stuff into the pan of hot water and leave it to soften for around three minutes. I keep the blocks apart, rather than let them contact as they amalgamate again. Take a block of Blue Stuff and tear off the amount you want for the lower mould. Pop the blob back into the hot water to soften once more. Having allowed a few seconds for it to heat through once again, lift it from the water and tease it to the size and shape to suit the master: as I was moulding cannons, I teased the blob to a sausage shape that was a little longer and wider than the cannon. Pop it back into the hot water once again. For the next stage, you need to be quite slick: work fast but not hastily. Take the sausage shaped blob and place it onto the clingfilm. Take the cannon and press it into the blob. Use the spatula to push the Blue Stuff neat and tight against the master. I formed a mound of Blue Stuff and pressed it into the muzzle of the cannon as I had found problems when having the mould parting line in this area. Then take your pizza cutter and put cut marks for trimming away excess Blue Stuff using the scissors once it has cooled and hardened. I left about 5mm around the cannon. The shape was a rectangle, although I did the following to differentiate between the three moulds I was making for each master: the first had the right corner at the muzzle end chamfered, the second had the left corner chamfered and the third was left untouched. Even if you are making a single mould, I recommend you put a chamfer on one corner as it makes it obvious which way to align the mould halves. I made all the lower moulds and then did the upper ones. That allowed more time for each piece to cool before being handled. Collect all the trimmings in the dessert spoon and gently lay it into the saucepan. Let the hot water run in and soften the fragments. Then knead them together into a blob and leave them in the saucepan for using for the upper moulds. Now for the top parts of the mould, but before we go there let me say that this is where I had most of my problems. For the Blue Stuff to flow well and get into all the detail, you want it quite hot. However, if it is too hot it will stick to the lower mould and even the cutting board! (hence the reason for the cling film). I wrote off one set of moulds when trying to separate the two halves, so needed to find a solution. I can offer two options (or you can combine them, but I haven't tried that yet). First, is to quickly dip the hot blob into cold water before pressing it onto the lower mould + master. Second, is to follow @Black Knight's method of using olive oil as a release agent. Both give improvements, but do not completely solve the problem. I think the next step will be to measure and control the temperature of the water to some optimum value to be decided after trials. Now for the top part of the mould: Place the master into the lower mould on the clingfilm covered cutting board. Apply some olive oil over the top. As before, take a blob of Blue Stuff from the hot water of the size and shape to cover the lower mould with a generous excess all around. You don't want the upper mould to be too thin as it is prone to stretch and curl when you separate it from the lower mould and also distort the parts you make from the mould when you press the halves together. I would aim for 3mm thickness. Having left the blob to heat through in the hot water, quickly dunk it into cold water, shake of the excess and then press it down onto the master. Take your spatula once again and press the Blue Stuff against the master. Finish my pressing the edges around the lower mould (that is what you will use for mould alignment, so it is an important step) and use the pizza wheel to apply the cutting marks and repeat whatever chamfer you had on the lower mould. Leave it to cool thoroughly before proceeding. Complete the job by lifting the mould from the cling film, trimming the edges and then teasing the two halves apart. It is now ready for use. Moulding the parts..... I roll out a piece of mixed putty of the length and diameter of the cannon. Typically, I find that one mould half wants more putty than the other. You can gauge this my popping the master into each half and seeing how far in it goes. Then cut the sausage of putty in the proportions. Roll each piece until it is the length of the cannon. Pop it into the mould half. Lightly tease it into the mould using a moulding tool. I find dipping the tool into water and removing the excess stops the putty sticking to the tool. Once both halves have a bed of putty, press it into the mould using a piece of backing paper from labels or double sided tape. It pushes the putty into the mould without it sticking to the paper and dragging it out again. For the cannons, I placed a piece of wire between the moulds to use as a locating pin into the carriages. This works well, so if you need to reinforce the parts you are making it should be easy enough to do. Now align and firmly press the two halves together. Place the lower mould onto a flat surface and press the upper mould down onto it. Leave to cure (I have been leaving it overnight, but if you need it quicker, then keep any residues of the putty to see when it sets). @Ex-FAAWAFU Crisp: I hope the ramblings above will be helpful for you (and anyone else who wants to try out the Blue Stuff). Please let me know how you get on and any thoughts for improving the technique. Pat 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnoldAmbrose Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 17 hours ago, Black Knight said: That is the cover to the 'cockpit' where the steering crew hauled on ropes attached to the rudder tiller. Gidday All. Black Knight, would a whipstaff have been used on this ship? It seemed to be the right era. And it's a shame that no figurehead was used back then. I reckon a guinea pig, or maybe a hamster would have been just the thing to strike fear and foreboding in the heart of the enemy. 😀 Regards, Jeff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 19 minutes ago, ArnoldAmbrose said: Gidday All. Black Knight, would a whipstaff have been used on this ship? It seemed to be the right era. Very possibly, maybe even probably. Pat could tell us how men standing below that cockpit roof would be in relation to the top of the rudder. For a Whipstaff they would be above the top of the rudder. For direct rope drive they would be below the top of the rudder. On a ship of this size, which was large for its time, a whipstaff would certainly be best. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnoldAmbrose Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 On 7/31/2019 at 8:34 PM, patmaquette said: A mixed result from the first trial. Two main problem areas: (1) the mould halves were grossly misaligned and (2) some details of the face - the nose in particular - was not fully formed. In all other respects the results were good: plenty of fine detail captured, good surface finish, easy enough to remove mould flash from the Milliput, easy enough to separate the parts from the moulds. I have an idea for how to solve the mould alignment problem and will try this next. Stay tuned! Pat Gidday Pat, a question for you if I may? The white castings you've done, what type of texture are they? It appears like plaster. Is it brittle like plaster, or more like resin, or styrene? Or something else entirely? I must confess to being almost totally ignorant on this. Thanks. Regards, Jeff. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 Interesting project ⚓ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted August 16, 2019 Author Share Posted August 16, 2019 3 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said: would a whipstaff have been used on this ship? 3 hours ago, Black Knight said: Pat could tell us how men standing below that cockpit roof would be in relation to the top of the rudder. For a Whipstaff they would be above the top of the rudder. For direct rope drive they would be below the top of the rudder. The standing area below the cockpit roof is a good distance higher than the top of the rudder, so it sounds like the Whipstaff is right. Personally, I've never heard of the Whipstaff, so it was interesting to read about it - thank you both! 2 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said: The white castings you've done, what type of texture are they? It appears like plaster. Is it brittle like plaster, or more like resin, or styrene? Or something else entirely? Jeff, I would say it is most like resin. The surface is smooth, shiny and non-porous. They should paint up a treat. The flash breaks away much like it does with resin. The castings are very strong - whether white (Milliput White Extrafine) or grey (Magic Sculpt) - I expected them to snap easily when I bent them, but they withstood it easily as much as styrene. Clean up was easy using a scalpel as a scraper. A file and abrasive paper also work well. The sub-surface is much like Isopon car filler, but maybe a tad harder. Cheers, Pat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 Hi Pat never tried this blue stuff but have used Smooth-On to do some casting they do have a starter kit which might be a better option. Regards Richard 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnoldAmbrose Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 (edited) Gidday and thanks both, I'm thinking of trying to cast some ship's fittings such as decent screws and anchors, etc. Thinking about it is as far as I've got at this point. Regards, Jeff. Edited August 17, 2019 by ArnoldAmbrose spelling error - decent 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacca Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 Fascinating insight into moulding which is way better than my last attempt to make 1/600 liferaft containers using plasticene moulds and plaster of paris filler. One thing I don't get though. Can you explain what you man by the use of the pizza cutter for the cutting lines? Don't see what that's trying to achieve or indeed how you're doing it. Thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 On the nature of the steering, whipstaff et al; I came across a drawing of a 1st Rate of 1728. I took a section of the drawing to show how the whipstaff lays - outlined in the yellow oval. I left part of the key of the drawing. Look at number 105 and 106. Although 150 years past the Ark Royale of this build it shows that the steering wheel was still not in use by 1728 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 21 hours ago, Ripaman said: Hi Pat never tried this blue stuff but have used Smooth-On to do some casting they do have a starter kit which might be a better option. Regards Richard Thank you for this, Richard. I tried the Blue Stuff + epoxy putty combination first off after having watched a YouTube video of it in use. It has some advantages and a very low cost outlay, so hence these trials to see if would do the job. The results are good enough for me to live with and the Blue Stuff will be a useful item to have in my toolbox. I think results using proper casting methods would be superior if done by someone who has gone through the learning curve - but I think that what I have will be good enough for my own use, at least for the time being - but I have bookmarked the Smooth-on site just in case! 12 hours ago, Chewbacca said: Fascinating insight into moulding which is way better than my last attempt to make 1/600 liferaft containers using plasticene moulds and plaster of paris filler. One thing I don't get though. Can you explain what you man by the use of the pizza cutter for the cutting lines? Don't see what that's trying to achieve or indeed how you're doing it. Thanks Regarding the pizza cutter - the Blue Stuff can be tough to cut, particularly when cold. I found the pizza cutter very useful to use when the Blue Stuff was still hot - it was quick and easy to use, giving straight lines and did not distort the mould that was still soft. It was sufficient just to leave cut marks - score lines if you like - as I found problems when trying to cut clean through. However, it was easy to use the scissors along the score lines to trim away the excess Blue Stuff once it had cooled, Without the score lines it was difficult to cut the mould to size and shape - which is important for the lower mould as I am using its edges to align the upper mould and so the edges want to be crisp & distinct. 5 hours ago, Black Knight said: On the nature of the steering, whipstaff et al; I came across a drawing of a 1st Rate of 1728. I took a section of the drawing to show how the whipstaff lays - outlined in the yellow oval. I left part of the key of the drawing. Look at number 105 and 106. Although 150 years past the Ark Royale of this build it shows that the steering wheel was still not in use by 1728 Wow - what a fascinating drawing! It looks to me that the Whipstaff can only move the rudder through a total angle of a few degrees - is that right? I notice that the steersman seems to be inside a cupboard..... Thank you all for your comments - they are making this an interesting build! The first lot of paint was applied to the model today. I am painting / shading the white below the waterline. Now would be a good time to tell me if white is incorrect!! Thanks again, Pat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 1 hour ago, patmaquette said: Wow - what a fascinating drawing! It looks to me that the Whipstaff can only move the rudder through a total angle of a few degrees - is that right? I notice that the steersman seems to be inside a cupboard..... It works on a simple principle of mechanics. The tiller-man pushes his control 15* to the right, the lower part of the control goes 15* to the left and takes the tiller arm with it deflecting the rudder 15*. Up to about 20* was normal, no more than this is normally needed afaik The tiller-man's efforts was supplemented with rope tackle. He's trying to move a rudder weighing several tons Most steering relied on the sails, the rudder seemed not to be too important except in low winds The tiller-man was in small room, or a sectioned off part of a room. All space was valuable on these ships so he got just the space he needed Remember, that drawing is of a 1st Rate. Take off the two decks above the tiller to be closer to your Ark Royal 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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