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2019 KW T800 twin steer tri axle rotator wrecker

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Here's the underside stabilizers. The one on the left is the forward one and is mostly done. The other is not finished. I left it that way to show how I made the small structure parts. There will be more mounting parts added to it. I started with parts being larger and then trimming them down. The black parts are the feet or pads.


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  • 2 months later...

Not as much done as I want in the past few weeks. Started some house renos, so this has stopped for a bit, not for long I hope.  Here's the bottom of the body taped up for test fitting. I remembered I had to make notches to the front of the center section for the vertical hydraulics of the front outriggers.


I realized my drawing I did was a bit off when I put everything on my mockup chassis. The outrigger stabalizers were about 13 mm to wide. I had section out the areas I could and make it all fit again. I did it to the front cabinet compartments to. The cut square parts is some of what I took out of them.


Here's a better view with the outrigger parts installed, that's the long square parts at the front. I had to notch out the front compartments to. The triangular part is a shroud that covers the hydraulics for the rear underlift, it's now fitted. The black piece on top is sand paper to represent the grit in the paint on the actual truck.


I just have to make two belly drag winches and the body will be done. I then want to set the parts up to attempt to make molds from it all. Hoping the renovations don't take to long, want to get back on this.


Edited by busnproplinerfan
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  • 1 year later...

It's been awhile but I'm back on this project. I built most of the engine, It's the Cummins X-15 from A&n model trucks, Beautiful little model by itself. I have to also cut the hood shorter. After a lot of measure and checking notes from the truck I made before I did the cuts.


Cuts' mostly done and the sub fenders made. If you have an underhood air cleaner then the fenders remain uncut from the hood. The air cleaner is from Mo-luminum.



The hood work is mostly done, still have to trim the rear under where the air cleaner piping goes. The rear portion of the cab is lengthened with some 1x 4.8mm strip. I still have to modify the doors and make a new non sunroof roof.



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8 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Good to see you back on this one! Nice work, some delicate cutting there. 

Thanks. Had the past year mostly off and counting. Been doing and learning house renovations, still more to go but don’t have a lot of cash so back to this truck. Need this done anyway, my buddy at Champion has waited long enough.

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  • busnproplinerfan changed the title to 2019 KW T800 twin steer tri axle rotator wrecker
  • 1 month later...

Here's a picture of the rotator base made. I had to modify it a bit for casting, yes I'm going to cast the wrecker parts. I had to remove the black lines and tape off the open spaces. Hopefully it'll help later one if and when I have to make another one. I don't even have a wrecker for myself.


Here's some of the pieces in molds. Also I picked up a lot of mold rubber. This thing sure eats it up. Good thing a pack in just $33, still adds up, need a few more yet and only two stores sell it here. one wants three times the cost for the same thing. Not sure if recycling will take the open empty bottles. No way to wash them out. Oh, yes I need my nails done.


A few of the molds that did turn out good. Learned a lot from watching "David Tolone" on YT. He's been doing resin work for 30 something years. Learned a few tricks from his videos, but I'm going to mostly resort to how I did this before. The boom and frame base didn't work out good in the mold so I have to remake the molds, wasted mold rubber isn't good.


I tried Smooth-on's Sorta-clear 37. It's nice that you can see through it, but it's very hard and very hard to cut. Also it needs to be degassed and I don't have a degasser, they are around7-$800. If it was degassed you would be able to see throught it.Had a "bluddy" time (I'll be nice here) cutting the rotator out, still have more to do but need a new knife.


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  • 3 months later...

Finally got some parts made now that I got some resin and mold rubber. I have parts for three short hood T800s, two sets of wrecker parts. A Ford grill and a DC-10 nose that is meant to replace the Revell and Airfix ones. Still more to make. Resin and mold rubber get expensive with shipping, so hopefully I got enough and hoping I have it mostly dialed in. Had problems at first with the resin as shown in the link.


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  • 2 weeks later...

A few more parts casted up. I was really surprised the boom and side turned out. The two sure eat up resin. Some air spots in them but ok. The clear mold rubber is the sorta-clear. It's a good mold rubber because you can see what's happening. The big problem with it is, it's very rigid, best for thinner one piece casts, not big things. I ran out of the Oomoo and used the clear to fill in. Works ok together but there's a noticeable new body line near the bottom of the side, you can see it in the second picture. All I can do is fill it with filler and blend it in. The other side mold didn't get this problem. I don't have enough mold rubber to make a whole new mold.  The back corner of the left fender had problems in the mold. The mold ripped a bit and it doesn't sit quite right. It won't be much to fix, just fill it in with some resin when it starts getting goopy, the putty. The underlift parts turned out pretty good, they are very complex but had to massage the mold before the resin set up. I'm nowhere near as good as some casters and shouldn't be showing my fails but it is what it is. Casting can be very frustrating and rewarding when it works. I was using a hand sander, the kind for wood working to vibrate the resin before mixing as it was in the mixing cups, seemed to help. I also used it a bit after the resin was mixed before pouring it into the mold. Saw a few air bubbles pop out.




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