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1/72 HMS Brave Borderer


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1 hour ago, gunzo said:

Could this 'panelling' be an anti slip application- grip paint, linoleum, grid plate, metal/wood stripĀ  or whatever?

I've been unable to find any information regarding the Braves' decks. Ā However,Ā my guess would be there was some sort of anti-slip coating on the deck, giving the 'panel' look, or at least covering the larger panels.

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John Ā Ā 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just finished painting the main deck. Ā You'd think airbrushing the deck would be a simple process, since it's relatively flat, it's primed, & it's masked. Ā Wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I ran into a couple of issues. Ā I've spent the last week painting, repairing, & repainting the deck.Ā Ā First, we've had a heat wave over the past 20 days with high humidity levels feeling like 40Ā°C+. Ā Even though our house is air conditioned, the heat & high humidity are causing havoc with my air brush. Ā Rather than having a nice smooth paint coat, the paint ends up drying too quickly, resulting in a rough stipple finish. Ā The good news here is that I think that BB's deck had an anti-slip coating, so unknowingly & unplanned I now have an anti-slip deck, too.Ā :yes:Ā Ā My second problem had to do with masking tape. Ā Brave Borderer has a border running around the outside of the toe rail, painted the same colour as the sides of the hull. Ā I decided I would paint the border before painting the deck. Ā So, I sprayed the border, waited a couple of days for it to dry, then masked it off & painted the deck. Ā Tamiya tape is my masking tape of choice, however this time I tried Testors flexible thin line masking tape. Ā Because the Testors tape is flexible, it was really easy to mask off the border around the curved edge around deck. Ā Once I painted the deck & let it dry for a day or so, I removed the Testors tape. Ā Much to my surprise, I found there were a number of small spots where the Testors tape lifted the border'sĀ paint coat & some masked lines were very uneven. Ā The Testors tape is supposed to have low stretch & low tack to prevent paint lifting & for ease of removal.Ā :(Ā Ā I've very seldom have had this problem with the Tamiya tape. Ā The lifting may have been caused by the heat & high humidity, but I'm blaming the tape.:angrysoapbox.sml:Ā 

I ended up sanding the spots where the paint lifted,Ā masking with Tamiya tape, & re-painting. Ā No lifting problems this time.

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Here's a photo of the finished deck area showing how the deck panels look. Ā I had to play around with the lighting so the deck panels would show up. Ā As a result, the deck colour looks different in the photo than what it actually is.

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Finally, the hull is ready for the hull & draught number decals.

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I've taken the following teaser photos showing the model with the superstructures & raised decks dry fitted.

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Next up, I'll start applying the inkjet printed hull decals (seeĀ post #102 re: decals).

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Thanks for looking in.

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Stay safe!

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John

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Edited by JohnWS
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Looking great there John even with the paint problem I always use Tamiya tapes always gives me a clean line not used the Testors before so will just stick with the Tamiya canā€™t wait to see the rest going onĀ šŸ‘

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Stay SafeĀ 

beefyĀ 

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Good to see you've got around your problems....

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When I need to follow tight curves I lay down a strip of Tamiya tape on glass on cutting mat and cut thin strips.

Seems to work for meĀ 

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BB is looking rather sexyĀ 

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Stay safe

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Kev

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45 minutes ago, longshanks said:

When I need to follow tight curves I lay down a strip of Tamiya tape on glass on cutting mat and cut thin strips.

Seems to work for meĀ 

Works for me too. Ā That is my normal way of masking curves, but when I saw the Testors tape it looked like an option to save having to cut the thin strips. Ā Just goes to show that if it's not broken, there's no need to fix it.Ā Ā :doh:Ā You'd think I would have learned that by now.Ā :clif:

Edited by JohnWS
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Another couple of milestones completed - propellers, rudders, & hull decals have been added.Ā :yahoo:

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FirstĀ I've glued the propellers & rudders in place to minimize the manhandling of the hull after the decals are applied. Ā The propellers, propeller shafts, & two of the three rudders are taken from the Perkasa model kit. Ā The third rudder was scratch built to match.

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Next, I've applied the home made hull number & draught mark decals to the hull sides. Ā The decals turned out pretty good for being printed on my inkjet printer. Ā I sealed the decals with matt clear lacquer so they would blend in with the hull paint finish.

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Here's a photo of the hull with the decals applied;

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... and a photo with the superstructures dry fit in place, andĀ comparison photos of Brave Borderer;

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Next up, start making the deck equipment & accessories.

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Thanks for looking in & following along.

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Stay safe!

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John

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Those decals look great John I would have said that you had painted them very neat work which papers are you using for themĀ šŸ¤”

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Stay SafeĀ 

beefyĀ 

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The master class continues!Ā :worthy:

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On 7/19/2020 at 1:26 PM, JohnWS said:

The good news here is that I think that BB's deck had an anti-slip coating, so unknowingly & unplanned I now have an anti-slip deck, too.Ā :yes:Ā Ā 

With the masterful job done on the deck panels, you couldĀ have left others to assume you brought those same madĀ skills to bear onĀ the anti-slip coating. :whistle:

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3 hours ago, beefy66 said:

Those decals look great John I would have said that you had painted them very neat work which papers are you using for themĀ šŸ¤”Ā ...

Thanks beefy.

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I usedĀ Testors decal paperĀ - clear paper for the black numbers & white paper for the white numbers (printing a black background and leaving the number white). Ā The clear paper decal film is really thin & blends very well. Ā The white paper decal paper is a little thicker. Ā In certain lighting conditions the cut edges of the thicker white paper can be seen when looking close up. Ā The secret is to not look at these decals too closely.Ā :rofl:

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Here's a close up photo showing light reflecting off theĀ edges of a white paper decal against the black hull paint.Ā 

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John

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4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

The master class continues!Ā :worthy:

Thank you!

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4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

... you couldĀ have left others to assume you brought those same madĀ skills to bear onĀ the anti-slip coating. :whistle:

Skills... that's it! Ā Years & years developing the anti-slip technique. Ā I like it!

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Ā Shhh, but don't tell anyone it was the result of years & years of screw ups. Ā lolĀ :laugh:

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John

Edited by JohnWS
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Great work so far... A keen eye to detail, but that's something we knew allready.

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Something I couldn't help noticing, but here you see 3 protrusions/plates underneath the windshield, breaking up that flat surface. It's also visible in other pictures.Ā 

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Thanks Silenoz!

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10 hours ago, Silenoz said:

Something I couldn't help noticing, but here you see 3 protrusions/plates underneath the windshield, breaking up that flat surface. It's also visible in other pictures.Ā 

My early photos show this area below the windscreen flat. Ā At some pointĀ in Brave Borderer's career she hadĀ a nameplate with the words P1011 Brave Borderer added below the windscreen. Ā Then later photos show the nameplate has been removed with only what looks like the mounting hardware/holes remaining. Ā Could this be what you're seeing?

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John

Edited by JohnWS
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I don't know that much about the ship, but in the shown pictures:

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These are clearly visible.

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Here it looks like some hooks only (maybe for a tarp when moored) there's something breaking up the large flat surface underneath the windshield.

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