Jump to content

Tamiya 1.72 Bf 109 G-6...Finally


Recommended Posts

I say finally because I approached this project with some trepidation. Why? Normally a new 109 model in my chosen scale of 1/72 would be a cause for rejoicing. And one from Tamiya...euphoria. Well, here's why the muted response:

 

 

47961625212_2c00ec6584_c.jpgIMG_7176 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

There are 22 Fine Molds 109 G-6's in the photo, and more elsewhere. I was a perfectly happy guy. The FM kit was simple but mostly accurate and moreover, when built it just looked RIGHT!

 

 

Well of course I had to get one. The promo photos from the Shizuoka show looked very promising. A detailed review by Brett Green on Hyperscale furthered that perception. Then he built one in about 25 minutes and raved about it. At the prodding of some good friends in Canada, I was directed to Wheels and Wings hobby shop in Toronto, who  got them in before anyone else. (Their service was excellent and the staff was great. They also very helpfully explained the conversion rate from US dollars into "Knuckistan pesos").  

 

Anyway, the thing looked excellent in the box. The scribing is superb. Parts breakdown...well somewhat unusual. I'll explain as well go with some Fine Molds comparisons along the way. I decided not to knock myself out with this build, just some basics to see how it looked when done.

 

The cockpit is superb, with very little extra required unless you're being fastidious. The only additions I made were a set of Eduard pre-painted seat belts and a Yahu instrument panel.

 

 

 

47106837084_bac7a399c8_c.jpgIMG_7163 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47106836884_5252cf64a3_c.jpgIMG_7166 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47106836834_7dc8a32e16_c.jpgIMG_7173 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

The engineering, for Tamiya, seems a little wonky. 

 

 

 

47106836254_3554874f2f_c.jpgIMG_7192 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

The joint of the lower wing/fuselage would have have been more natural if it were moved forward to the next panel line; some filling required here. But then the under fuselage access panel would not have been molded as crisply. Also the cowl is in three parts (sorry, no photo) instead of the two prototypical halves as seen on the FM kit. I'm still not crazy about this one, but Tamiya does represent the upper cowl piano hinge very nicely. You can also see the slots for the hockey-stick like landing gear. Another nice touch are the open inspection slots in the wheel wells. In the photo you can see that I've painted the surrounding area RLM 76 already. The inside of the upper wing will be painted black behind the slots to set them off. You can also see the representation of the leather liner which will be hand painted with acrylic brown before the wings are joined. These areas are significantly better than the FM effort. Here the pre-painted wheel well area has been masked off, then the undersides finished off.

 

 

47106836704_c1c98f9ab9_c.jpgIMG_7181 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

As you can gather from the pervious photo, the wing radiators are separate pieces, They do not close completely and gaps are visible on both sides and the rear. The sides are not that troubling, but the trailing edges are rounded internally. On the 109 G these flaps should close completely, unlike the F model, which had a slot when closed. I compromised and filed the rear the to represent a proper slot.

 

 

Another quirk is the attachment of the wheels. They are keyed, which seems to be unnecessary. I always flatten the bottom of the tires before attaching them. I'm not sure whether to grind out the key or try to sand them after they are in place. The detail is very nicely defined.

 

 

47106836444_520da5ed77_c.jpgIMG_7188 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

Minor niggles aside, the assembly was rather trouble free. Here the airframe is painted in RLM 76.

 

 

47106835954_fea57cfa96_c.jpgIMG_7194 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

In preparation for camo painting, I built another jig; this one to hold the fuselage at a good angle for mottling. It actually turned out to be of limited use.

 

 

47106835274_2ee9a207e3_c.jpgIMG_7197 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47106835644_f88933535d_c.jpgIMG_7195 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

Camouflage painting:

 

This particular aircraft had some distinctive mottling.

 

47106833874_bd6dfd5925_c.jpgIMG_7208 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47843997112_94dc8bfdfd_c.jpgIMG_7210 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47843997502_28b67b03c1_c.jpgIMG_7209 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

 

47904714881_8aa7219788_c.jpgIMG_7219 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

I am using the excellent new decal sheet from Exito Decals. This one will be the personal aircraft of Constantin Cantacuzino after the flight when he flew the ranking USAAF POW to the American lines in the rear fuselage. The purpose was the repatriation of American POWs after Romania quit the Axis and joined the Allied war effort. American markings were very hastily applied to the plane, which took off before the paint had dried. This is evidenced by the white paint on the stars in the flag running in the direction of the slipstream, a feature faithfully captured by Exito. The decals were painted by Cartograf and went on nicely.

 

 

IMG_7221 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

The next step was the usual oil paint wash which I have described before, and will not bore you with again.

 

 

47947773907_ba4cd5b3dd_c.jpgIMG_7233 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47947785848_7b2a51b43a_c.jpgIMG_7230 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47947773697_cfa002cbd0_c.jpgIMG_7235 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

The entire airframe was riveted using a "Risie the Riveter" tool from UMM Models. As I've said before, once you start riveting you will never go back.

 

Well that's were she stands at the moment. I must say I am being won over by this kit but will save final impressions for later.

 

Hope you enjoyed the ride so far.

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work as always Barry. Like you I have a stack of FM 109s so haven't been tempted by the Tamiya kit just yet. It looks like a nice kit without any gimmicks but why didn't they just put that rear lower joint on the panel line?!

 

Duncan B

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tonight I applied the flat coat, in this case Mr. Paint Matt. This is the second time I've used this product and I'm liking it. It does smell though! Some detail painting was also done (cowl guns, scoops and wingtip lights. Weathering also continued with more oil paints and water color pencils, both done before the flat was added.

 

47969506758_65dc999ded_c.jpgIMG_7239 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47969488347_c22fc5b73a_c.jpgIMG_7243 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

47969546776_2dba64bcaa_c.jpgIMG_7246 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A bit more progress on this one. The landing gear has been attached, and I have to say, it is idiot-proof. Initially I wondered about the necessity of the hockey stick engineering of the gear; it seemed a bit over complicated. However, I am now sold. The gear clicked in place and instead of considerable adjusting of height and angles as I would normally do with a Fine Molds kit, I just waited a few minutes for the glue to set a bit, then confirmed that the angles were correct. And they were! Wow.

 

I've also sprayed on the exhaust stains and added the shoulder straps from an Eduard steel prepainted set. Note to self; install these before the final phase of the build. I was concerned about masking the cockpit and in the process pulling off the shoulder belts. But that could have been handled more easily than bending steel straps that actually become more like springs when shoehorning them into the completed cockpit. They will twang out of the cockpit with the least provocation. Lots of smaller details have also been done, including the canopy retention mechanism (a pole with a base and mounting brackets). The canopy, a Rob Taurus vac of the Erla Haube, is also taking shape. The more I work on this kit the more I like it. Anyway, here's the current batch of photos. Thanks for looking.

 

 

47990017783_a4ba71af9d_c.jpgIMG_7253 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

47990014552_974c6a1e3c_c.jpgIMG_7254 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

47990069491_12d0ff13c5_c.jpgIMG_7255 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/31/2019 at 12:38 PM, 109 fan said:

I'll be using a Rob Taurus vac canopy. Since the Erla Haube was very thin, the vac canopy is the only way to go.

If you're doing an ERLA machine should the cowling be different as well or just the canopy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ruudster! ArmoredSprue, the Erla Haube is simply the one piece clear vision canopy, often mistakenly called the "Galland Hood". It was fitted to virtually all late model 109s, not just those produced by the Erla factory. There were also two distinct types of these canopies. I believe there is a very good discussion of the differences on this site. Try searching in the general discussion area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, now for a ridiculous, stupid, aggravating issue.  The Tamiya kit has generally excellent fit including the wheels, which are keyed into the landing gear. I mean really keyed. This is a tapered cone/notch affair that sets the precise angle. Is this better than just a rod and hole scenario? Probably a bit, but I am reminded of the rule of diminishing returns, where adding complexity gives incrementally smaller results. Here was the problem. There is no reliable way to flatten the tires before they are attached to the gear. I thought I had a brilliant solution. I began by rubbing some pencil graphite on paper, then rubbing the wheels in this. Obviously you end up with some marks precisely where the wheel touches the ground. Simple matter to hold the wheel on sandpaper using the graphite spot as a reference, and viola, perfectly aligned flat spot. Right?

 

 

48027571638_f821d6ec47_c.jpgIMG_7256 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

Except that it failed miserably and was 30 degrees off on both wheels. Again, no problem. Just take out the Moto-Tool, chuck in a dental drill and grind out the key on the wheel. After three attempts I broke completely through a wheel. OK, take a set of wheels from another kit. SAME THING! So I ended up doing what I really didn't want to do; sticking the wheels on with a dot of white glue, grabbed each wheel with tweezers, then while applying downward pressure, pull a strip of 320 grit sandpaper under each wheel. This worked, but was way too risky. Is there an aftermarket resin manufacturer willing to take this on???

 

Anyway, I've added most of the remaining doodads, including the Rob Taurus vac canopy. This has some added details including some riveted .005" strips and a canopy locking handle.

 

 

48027640812_4b003dd12b_c.jpgIMG_7257 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

48027640712_ee8657229c_c.jpgIMG_7260 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

More soon; thanks for watching.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally, it's done. In general, I'm very pleased with the Tamiya kit. The surface detail is world class. The fineness of the panel lines makes the effect of an oil wash more subtle than the Fine Molds kit. The keyed landing gear makes their alignment a snap and practically idiot-proof. The keyed wheels take away all of the good feelings just mentioned. As I've recounted, flattening them is a hassle. I don't like the tabs on the opening section of the canopy. For novices it is a nice feature. For an accurate replica, these things must be cut off and the notches on the cockpit sidewall filled. Since I used a vac canopy replacement, I didn't have to deal with this. The Tamiya kit is a generation removed from the Fine Molds effort, and it shows in things like cockpit detail. Does it make me want to sell all of my Fine Molds 109 G-6s? Not on your life. Will I build another? Absolutely. I'll post a few Tamiya/Fine Molds comparison photos here, then add some glamor shots in the Completed Models section.

 

 

48040667746_237e7089e7_c.jpgIMG_7311 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

 

48040770747_1d2f027ce2_c.jpgIMG_7304 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

48040706758_1b44f60997_c.jpgIMG_7303 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

48040668046_b85cb06001_c.jpgIMG_7302 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

48040706978_9b0b28b0f0_c.jpgIMG_7292 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

48040706873_3b28f7515b_c.jpgIMG_7293 by Barry Numerick, on Flickr

 

You'll notice some definite differences in the beefiness of the nose section and angles of the nose and rear fuselage. Which one do you prefer? 

 

I'd say we have an embarrassment of riches with small scale 109 G's at the moment!

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are in the planning stages, next, but the release date and even the precise variant are yet to be determined. The last I heard, they are considering the later versions, such as the G-6/AS, for their first offering.

Edited by 109 fan
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...