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Miles Master In Three Flavours, F340, Two finished, one for another day


AdrianMF

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On 7/21/2019 at 7:32 PM, AdrianMF said:

Thanks Chris. Ebay is yer friend for Oyumaru.

 

For the engine mould I dropped a big piece into boiling water and then squished it over the engine. I was surprised how far around the cylinders it got, and how far down the propeller shaft hole. I even had to cut some away to get the original out! Previously I’ve only used it for fairly flat items like 1:1 decorative mouldings for a mirror frame and wheel hubs.

 

Regards,

Adrian

Brilliant thanks Adrian, I will have to get some of this and give it a try.

Great work btw 

All the best

Chris

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I am thinking of moulding a couple of radial engines in resin but the problem with this sort of shape is avoiding having air bubbles trapped at the end of each cylinder. I will probably have to glue risers on the the master so that when I inject the resin it forces the air out. Easy enough I suspect but a bit fiddly. MIght try your method instead.

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I've had no problems with missing or incomplete cylinders, I just have to be careful to get the milliput to the end of the gear case.

 

I gave away an Aeroclub white metal Tiger engine and took a mould of it beforehand. I wanted a copy of the engine in my Shark build a while back. I think I managed to cobble together one complete engine from six or seven resin attempts!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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Of course I could imitate some of the fancy resin engines supplied with kits and cast individual cylinders and crankcase - however I am not that mad yet!

Edited by PeterB
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I’ve started painting the underside with a thin coat of acrylic Hu24. I have added tailwheel, step, pitot tube, bomb rack attachment points and the engine accessories. Although I don’t quite believe it, I’m going with what FROG provide behind the engine because I can’t find any clear pictures of that area. Pic:

C953-EA33-D112-40-C3-92-C1-2-BBEA97-E262

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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Phew! That’s a lot better:

17-F25-C7-B-3534-425-B-A97-C-416-C2-D411

I’ve just started using my first “new” Humbrol acrylic and i have to say I’m quite impressed! The old pot wasn’t quite empty but there was a lot of crud in it so out with the old. Topsides tomorrow...

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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42 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

I assumed you meant track laying!

I think I might need to so I get a proper photo plank for some of the stock I’m working on! It was a typo, caused by autocorrect! 

 

A little progress was made earlier on my Master. I think Plan F, or wherever I’ve got to now, might just work.

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Got the decals done:

C23-B2-E7-F-2-E1-D-4945-913-B-16-DD27-A7

A and B type wing roundels, and fin flash,  are Xtradecal. Serials on fuselage and under wing are home printed. Big seven is made from strips  cut from spare white decal.

 

Miles Masters have a fuselage roundel of strange proportions, which I think I’ve captured quite well - I started with the A1 roundels from the old Airfix Blenheim, overlaid a 27” Xtradecal D type on top to get the narrow blue ring and then finished off with the red dot for the larger underwing roundel, again from the old Airfix Blenheim.

 

Just the undercarriage, instructor’s folding windshield and weathering to go now...

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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Very nice work Adrian. The whole thing is looking really good. I especially like the interior and re-profiling of the fuselage. And the canopy, and the yellow (my 'new' pot of Humbrol 24 Yellow looks much greyer than my 'old' pot) looks good too.

 

Ray

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More jellyfish on the workbench!

47287543-ECAF-4-D9-A-9-ABF-82-BBAC89-C39

 

My previous wheel moulds did not work out. So I did two things. Firstly, I drilled a 0.5mm hole through the master wheel where I had made each indent between the spokes. That way the air has somewhere to escape and the Oyumaru can fill the cavity. Secondly, I made a little circular bath so that the Oyumaru has nowhere to go when squished and has to undercut the wheel:

ED436682-B667-4368-A119-12662-E820-FD9.j

 

Heres one I made earlier. It’s Milliput time!

6-C7-CC0-D1-27-D9-44-C3-821-C-A682-D7541

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

 

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The kit undercarriage struts don’t hang down at the right angle so I made some new ones out of 1mm brass rod with a sleeve of Albion Alloys finest. They are about 2mm longer than the kit legs and have an extra bend right at the top to give them a bit more splay. All held together with lashings of superglue and prayers to the God of Mixed Media:

2-B6-B3-F50-917-D-415-C-AF23-433-C6-F6-C

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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I heated some thin transparent plastic up and shaped it over my spare Master fuselage:

B3-A01-C84-66-E1-4-B7-C-B16-F-C4221071-A

 

I thought I’d need plenty of spares. So of course I then managed to get the windscreen cut out and fixed first go:

F0-FB606-C-A5-B9-4-ACB-9-BB4-27-CE02-B9-

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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Slight change of plan. The Milliput wheels were a little disappointing so I thought I’d give 5-minute epoxy a try:

0-DE7093-A-B9-D6-49-EE-A02-A-B88-B64-E30

L-R original, painted Milliput, today’s Milliput, one OK, one with dents in it, 2x epoxy glue, both look sharp.

 

[edit] I realise you may not see much difference between all the black blobs, but the epoxy ones do look sharper in the flesh.

 

Thanks for looking,

Adrian

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Hi Adrian, I have ordered from eBay some Oyumaru. so will see what I can make when that arrives.

 

Great work btw on the wheels and Master that lift up windscreen looks absolutely fantastic.

 

Keep up the good work

Chris

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