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GazB

Questions about Pledge Revive It (Future)

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Hi guys,

Sorry for going dark so long: this week was brutal in non pleasant way and didn't had a time for a hobby except few minutes before going to work. Here are my tests: 

1. Canopy: unfortunately I dipped it before being asked to show the process so I'll put a bit of description as well as compare with the extra canopy from the same sprue. Here is the procedure: I wash canopy in ammonia based glass cleaning liquid, let it dry, giving a part a god dip into the Future, couple times touch the paper towel with the edge of the canopy to get off excess and place clear piece on the paper towel, leave it for around 24 hours. Repeat the process from the dipping step and leave a canopy for at least another 24 hours (these 3 pictures are the same except getting focus into different locations: focus between 2 canopies, focus to canopy that wasn't dipped (closest), focus on the dipped canopy (middle)) 

KWRNfzP.jpg

 

2. Brush painted piece (A6M2 wing fold...this mule had seen quite a bit of action). Primed via Tamiya Primer spray can, Black base via Tamiya TS-14 (I do not have Gloss Black Mr Color so before ordering (and unfortunately my local hobby shops do not have it so have to order it online :( ) decided to try on another lacquer based paint), brush painting using Testors Buffing Aluminium (and you can see that things went south, b/c it started to lift black base so for something that has to be brush painted I'm still going to use Alclad Black Base), then brush painted Future (pictures order: black based, aluminium painted and buffed, right after painting Future, after 20 hours of curing) :

QZjstpJ.jpg

 

3. Airbrush painted: P-51D cabin painted with Tamiya acrylic paints, radio and instrument panel brush painted Model Master US Aircraft Interior Black (pictures order: paint cured, right after spraying Future, after 24 hours of curing Future, another picture of cured Future):

W4APGMV.jpg

 

Airbrush: Iwata Eclipse HP CS (0.35mm). Pressure settings:

vWJPy7e.jpg

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Hey Gaz, a final update: I finished this one at the beginning of the week and used the bottle of new Pledge for final coating and canopy dipping so you can get  an idea of what an actual finished model looks like when its used on it. I brushed two coats on the tail for some damage control due to tacky paint , for decalling- as you can see no brush marks, no silvering. The final coat was single decal sealing coat, was straight from the bottle, sprayed @15PSI. Incidentally I prefer the Pledges muted gloss over that of Alclad Aqua which is the preferred gloss coat over Alclad metals. I've just started another NMF build, a P-51D, that'll get exactly the same treatment. BTW I know this sounds obvious, you have tried thinning it just plain ol' distilled water to see if that helps?

 

 

Cheers

 

Anil

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On 6/5/2019 at 1:30 PM, azureglo said:

Hey Gaz, a final update: I finished this one at the beginning of the week and used the bottle of new Pledge for final coating and canopy dipping so you can get  an idea of what an actual finished model looks like when its used on it. I brushed two coats on the tail for some damage control due to tacky paint , for decalling- as you can see no brush marks, no silvering. The final coat was single decal sealing coat, was straight from the bottle, sprayed @15PSI. Incidentally I prefer the Pledges muted gloss over that of Alclad Aqua which is the preferred gloss coat over Alclad metals. I've just started another NMF build, a P-51D, that'll get exactly the same treatment. BTW I know this sounds obvious, you have tried thinning it just plain ol' distilled water to see if that helps?

 

 

Cheers

 

Anil

Hmm, I hadn't tried the water. On my most recent build I just tried giving some X-22 a shot. Worked for the most part, though in some places even after a day of curing it didn't seem to have done enough to protect the underlying layer during the weathering stage and some of the paint started to chip away. I'm sometimes wondering if the cotton buds I'm using to clean it off are a bit too stiff and compact. X-22 seemed to do the job at least. Typical that I'd get that going now after buying that bottle ><

 

Gaz

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11 hours ago, GazB said:

Hmm, I hadn't tried the water. On my most recent build I just tried giving some X-22 a shot. Worked for the most part, though in some places even after a day of curing it didn't seem to have done enough to protect the underlying layer during the weathering stage and some of the paint started to chip away. I'm sometimes wondering if the cotton buds I'm using to clean it off are a bit too stiff and compact. X-22 seemed to do the job at least. Typical that I'd get that going now after buying that bottle ><

 

Gaz

You're getting there, just build more and experiment with two thin coats of clear, less thinner. I've had some success with Flory washes which are totally harmless being water based:

weathered.jpg&key=d8274f877b87be67300c00

 

done3.jpg&key=90258d7f04f043ae8e27d92011

 

As for cotton buds I use either the asda skin system or Johnsons at they seem softer and less compacted on to the stem.

 

Anil

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On 6/9/2019 at 12:07 PM, azureglo said:

You're getting there, just build more and experiment with two thin coats of clear, less thinner. I've had some success with Flory washes which are totally harmless being water based:

weathered.jpg&key=d8274f877b87be67300c00

 

done3.jpg&key=90258d7f04f043ae8e27d92011

 

As for cotton buds I use either the asda skin system or Johnsons at they seem softer and less compacted on to the stem.

 

Anil

Oh it's the Asda baby buds that I'm using.

 

Gaz

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