Andre B Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) Hi, Sometimes questions showes up concerning noseweights. There must be lot of builders here with experiences so why not making an chart of wich aircraft that needs noseweight and wich doesn't? I will try to update the chart if there is interest... Cheers / André Edited May 16, 2019 by Andre B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre B Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) Brittish Aircrafts Attacker - Yes Buccaneer - Yes Canberra - Yes Gannet - Yes Gnat - No Harrier - No Hawk Hunter - Yes Jaguar - No Javelin - Yes Jet Provost - Yes Lightning - Yes Meteor - Yes Scimitar - Yes Sea Hawk - Yes Sea Vixen - Yes Swift Typhoon - Yes Vampire Venom Canadian Aircraft Avro Arrow US Aircrafts A-3 - Yes A-4 Skyhawk A-5 Vigilante A-6 Intruder - Yes A-7 Corsair A-10 B-45 Tornado B-66 - Yes FH-1 Phantom F2H Banshee - Yes F3D Skyknight F3H Demon - Yes (15 g 1/72) F4D Skyray - Yes (5g 1/72) F5D Skylancer F6D Missiler F6U Pirate F7U Cutlass F9F Panther F10F Jaguar F11F Tiger - No F-80 F-84 F-86D Sabre (20g 1/48) F-89 F-100 Supersabre F-101 Voodoo F-102 Delta Dagger F-104 Starfighter - No F-105 Thunderchief F-106 Delta Dart F-108 Rapier F-111 Ardvaark F-4 Phantom - No F-5 F-6 Skylancer F-7 F-8 Crusader - No F-14 Tomcat - No F-15 Eagle - No F-16 Falcon - Mostly not... F/A-18 Hornet - No F-20 F-21 - No F-22 F-23 F-35 Russian Aircrafts Il-28 Beagle MiG-15 MiG-17 MiG-19 MiG-21 MiG-23 MiG-25 MiG-27 MiG-29 MiG-31 Su-25 - Yes Swedish Aircrafts J-21 J-29 Tunnan - Yes J-32 Lansen - Yes J-35 Draken - Yes J-37 Viggen - No JAS-39 Gripen - Yes French Aircraft Mirage III - No Edited May 18, 2019 by Andre B Update 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franky boy Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Airfix 1/48 Meteor - yes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antti_K Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Caanberras - YES 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) MiG-17 1/48 KP/etc and Trumpeter a lot! MiG-15 1/48 Trumpeter with CWS resin tail.. a lot Su-25 1/48 Monogram yes Edited May 14, 2019 by exdraken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 F-14 Tomcat (1/72) - No. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Airfix 1/48th: Lightning, yes, Hunter, yes, Javelin, yes Sea Vixen, yes Buccaneer, yes Jaguar, no Tornado, tes Canberras, yes Meteor, yes Airfix 1/72th Jet Provost, yes Vampire, yes, Me 262, yes, Lightning, yes Phantom, no MiG 15, yes, Sabre, yes B-25 Mitchell, yes B-26 Marauder, yes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 It's so easy to accomplish without a chart. Just tape the major components together until you have a substantially complete airframe. Then plug in some toothpicks or matchsticks in the main gear sockets. Place on your workbench and see if it's tailheavy. Then temporarily affix some weight to the nose or in the cockpit or even in the engine nacelles forward of the main gear until the model is no longer tailheavy. That's how much weight to add in those locations. Add a bit more for insurance. That's all there is to it. Painter's Pyramid stands are great for this purpose instead of toothpicks/matchsticks: Here's one source: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57821&cat=2,42194,43390&ap=1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre B Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Space Ranger said: It's so easy to accomplish without a chart. Just tape the major components together until you have a substantially complete airframe. Then plug in some toothpicks or matchsticks in the main gear sockets. Place on your workbench and see if it's tailheavy. Then temporarily affix some weight to the nose or in the cockpit or even in the engine nacelles forward of the main gear until the model is no longer tailheavy. That's how much weight to add in those locations. Add a bit more for insurance. That's all there is to it. Painter's Pyramid stands are great for this purpose instead of toothpicks/matchsticks: Here's one source: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57821&cat=2,42194,43390&ap=1 Thanks, But if one knew one don't need to do that work. And don't have to cut of all parts from the sprues... Cheers / André Edited May 14, 2019 by Andre B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fubar57 Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Monogram B-29: the world's supply of lead might...might keep the front end down 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don149 Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 HK B 25 , loads of it , under the `pit floor , behind it and behind the engines as well . Makes for quite a heavy model ! . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingcanberra Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 (edited) Revell 48th Tornado (GR4) and Typhoon (Eurofighter) - need it but nowhere near as much as Revell suggest. It would be really helpful if reviewers that say "I used x gm lead to prevent tail sitting" would then say if this was a reasonable amount, was the result really nose heavy, about right or not enough. Edited May 14, 2019 by kingcanberra Qualify which versions 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMrEd Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Sorry Space Ranger -- You can lead a horse to drink, but you can't make him water.... Ed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 7 hours ago, Andre B said: Thanks, But if one knew one don't need to do that work. And don't have to cut of all parts from the sprues... Cheers / André The instructions for most kits produced within the last 10-15 years indicate how much weight to add (I usually add more just in case), Each modeler has a different idea of what to use for weights, and amounts can vary accordingly. And you have to cut the parts from the sprues anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayprit Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 What many modellers fail to realise when adding weight to the model is to take into the consideration the stress added to the undercarriage, especially nosewheels, you either need to add reinforcement to the undercarriage or consider buying replacement undercarriage made from white metal or brass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre B Posted May 15, 2019 Author Share Posted May 15, 2019 3 minutes ago, Space Ranger said: The instructions for most kits produced within the last 10-15 years indicate how much weight to add (I usually add more just in case), Each modeler has a different idea of what to use for weights, and amounts can vary accordingly. And you have to cut the parts from the sprues anyway! Yes, but when it comes to older kits it doesn't. And it's sometimes good to let parts stay on sprues as long as possible and not loose or damage them. I made this thread for those builders who are interested in knewing if they need noseweight of not... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 1 minute ago, rayprit said: What many modellers fail to realise when adding weight to the model is to take into the consideration the stress added to the undercarriage, especially nosewheels, you either need to add reinforcement to the undercarriage or consider buying replacement undercarriage made from white metal or brass Good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 1 minute ago, Andre B said: Yes, but when it comes to older kits it doesn't. And it's sometimes good to let parts stay on sprues as long as possible and not loose or damage them. I made this thread for those builders who are interested in knewing if they need noseweight of not... You don't need to remove every part, just the major airframe components: Fuselage, wings, tail surfaces, occasionally an interior tub, and anything aft of the main gear such as a jet engine (I'm thinking here of some kits, such as those from Trumpeter, which include complete jet engines that will never be seen). It's not rocket science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 6 hours ago, rayprit said: What many modellers fail to realise when adding weight to the model is to take into the consideration the stress added to the undercarriage, especially nosewheels, you either need to add reinforcement to the undercarriage or consider buying replacement undercarriage made from white metal or brass Actually no. not quite. Unless you've added a heap more weight that you needed to prevent tail sitting, the added weight on the nose wheel SHOULD be fairly small, the main undercarriage wheels should be taking the most of it, as the weight added up front is being balanced out by what was causing the model to be a tail sitter in the first case. To my mind, a good reason not to add more than is necessary. Steve. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 F-86D Sabredog - Yes (20g / Revell 1/48) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris57 Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Mach 2 Bristol Britannia filled the nose compartment with lead and am now debating the engine cowls. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 SAAB aircraft: All with nosewheel need noseweight. That is Draken (not so much), Tunnan (plenty!!!), Lansen, J 21, Gripen, Saab 105 (all three normal). But there is one exception: Saab Viggen (any brand) does not need any noseweight (unless you don't fill the rear part with tons of resin). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLC1966 Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 As mentioned on here previously..... https://hobby.uk.com/materials/plastic/styrene-rod/triangular.html Painted Rubber Black, glued to wheels, looks like Chocks. I put these on the wheels, a bit of weight at the front. Seems to solve most issues. As per the above list 1/72 Revell Meteor - Yes 1/72 Revell Vampire - Yes 1/72 Airfirx Gnat - No 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antti_K Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 I built a British Phantom from Hasegawa kit (1/48 scale). Normally Phantoms don't need extra weight but in this case heavy resin jet pipes and FG.1's long nose landing gear leg dictated otherwise. Lead was needed. Antti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tempestfan Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Supermarine Attacker: No, unless portrayed in a certain "post-landing" mode. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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